I like Vaan and Penelo, but then again, I never viewed them as the main characters, just two members of the ensemble cast. I think that's why Vaan gets so much hate. They look at him as the Tidus of the game, which he really isn't. He's just the reckless kid who sets events in motion, and I think he and Penelo add some levity and charm to the cast overall.
I absolutely need a remaster of this game. All the aditions and improved graphics to do the game justice. I like how Square remastered the soundtrack of its previous games, too. Ivalics has an amazing atmosphere, the world is so cool and full of secrets and lore. Spira is beautiful, too, but Ivalice is more open.