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"I need a New PC!" 2011 Thread of reading the OP. Seriously. [Part 2]

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chaosblade

Unconfirmed Member
Giriath_89 said:
What does GAF have to say about the Corsair Force GT SSD series? I've seen mostly Intel 510 and Crucial M4 be recommended here.
Apparently there are some issues with the Sandforce firmware. I don't really know any details about SSDs, but I've seen a lot of people recommending against SSDs with Sandforce controllers in this thread recently because of that.
 
Sourtreats said:
Anyone have any suggestions for mice?

I was thinking of getting the Razer Deathadder ReSpawn.
1085807-b.jpg


Main usage; Gaming, Lots of Photoshop and Illustrator work and some modeling.
I would suggest the logitech g400, I have its previous model, the mx518 and it is such a great mouse. The g400 is the next mx518
logitech-g400-mouse.jpg
 

garath

Member
Mr Nightman said:
I would suggest the logitech g400, I have its previous model, the mx518 and it is such a great mouse. The g400 is the next mx518
logitech-g400-mouse.jpg

Lol. The description even says it's the next mx518.

To help in your decision, I'll say I love my mx518. Best mouse I've ever owned. If the g400 is anything like it, that's the one I'd choose.
 

squicken

Member
I don't really get this Thunderbolt thing. So Apple is the only company that's actually shipping PCs with it, and Intel won't integrate it until 2013 with Haswell?

What's the plan until then? Add in cards using PCI-E 3.0?
 

scogoth

Member
squicken said:
I don't really get this Thunderbolt thing. So Apple is the only company that's actually shipping PCs with it, and Intel won't integrate it until 2013 with Haswell?

What's the plan until then? Add in cards using PCI-E 3.0?

Can't make an add-in card over PCIe because there is no way to pass-through the Displayport signal. It could be added into GPUs but more likely motherboard manufacturers will add in a Thunderbolt controller just like they add USB3.0 controllers, extra SATAIII controllers, IDE legacy controllers, firewire controllers, etc.

Just like SATAIII wasn't integrated until Sandy Bridge, its too early to dedicate the transistors on a CPU or northbridge to a thunderbolt controller.
 

theRizzle

Member
I am looking at putting together a 3 monitor setup, but I can't decide between AMD and Nvidia for my GPU. They will likely end up being 1080p monitors or TV's.

As far as I understand, VRAM plays a huge part in high resolution setups like this, so if I were to go Nvidia, I would probably be looking at two 3gb GTX 580's. And I guess for AMD, it would be two 6970's.

Basically, my question is would either of these setups be noticeably better than the other? Also, how is SLI/Crossfire performance? Is one more or less functional/buggy than the other?
 

scogoth

Member
theRizzle said:
I am looking at putting together a 3 monitor setup, but I can't decide between AMD and Nvidia for my GPU. They will likely end up being 1080p monitors or TV's.

As far as I understand, VRAM plays a huge part in high resolution setups like this, so if I were to go Nvidia, I would probably be looking at two 3gb GTX 580's. And I guess for AMD, it would be two 6970's.

Basically, my question is would either of these setups be noticeably better than the other? Also, how is SLI/Crossfire performance? Is one more or less functional/buggy than the other?

For multi screen setups AMD gets the nod for having more VRAM and 3 screen support with one card. Nvidia gets the nod for multi GPU setups, they generally have better profile support and more stable framerates. For mutli screen, multi GPU setups its really a coin toss depending on the games. Two 580s will outperform two 6970s but will cost more so if you can afford it two 580s is the way to go.
 

Detox

Member
So my PC only built a few months ago just started having a weird problem while booting up. It just powers on CPU, GPU fans start spinning and then it shuts down, a few seconds later it will attempt to boot again without me pressing any buttons. It just cycles like this until I hold the power button down. I left it alone this morning when it had the same problem, came in the afternoon and it worked fine. Now it has the same problem there is no video and the pc just starts for a little while then restarts cycling this process.
 

squicken

Member
scogoth said:
Can't make an add-in card over PCIe because there is no way to pass-through the Displayport signal. It could be added into GPUs but more likely motherboard manufacturers will add in a Thunderbolt controller just like they add USB3.0 controllers, extra SATAIII controllers, IDE legacy controllers, firewire controllers, etc.

Just like SATAIII wasn't integrated until Sandy Bridge, its too early to dedicate the transistors on a CPU or northbridge to a thunderbolt controller.

Thanks for the info. So how does Apple do it? It must not be too large if Apple can fit it in its chassis. Is Intel the sole maker of said controller? I know with USB3 it's kind of hit and miss with performance and the various companies' implementation.
 

Wazzim

Banned
Detox said:
So my PC only built a few months ago just started having a weird problem while booting up. It just powers on CPU, GPU fans start spinning and then it shuts down, a few seconds later it will attempt to boot again without me pressing any buttons. It just cycles like this until I hold the power button down. I left it alone this morning when it had the same problem, came in the afternoon and it worked fine. Now it has the same problem there is no video and the pc just starts for a little while then restates continously cycling this process.
Reset CMOS, just look in your mobo manual for the instructions.
 

Dennis

Banned
scogoth said:
For multi screen setups AMD gets the nod for having more VRAM and 3 screen support with one card
He specifically mentions that he is considering getting two 3GB GTX580 cards.

I have this setup.

It is the setup of Gods.
 

Smokey

Member
theRizzle said:
I am looking at putting together a 3 monitor setup, but I can't decide between AMD and Nvidia for my GPU. They will likely end up being 1080p monitors or TV's.

As far as I understand, VRAM plays a huge part in high resolution setups like this, so if I were to go Nvidia, I would probably be looking at two 3gb GTX 580's. And I guess for AMD, it would be two 6970's.

Basically, my question is would either of these setups be noticeably better than the other? Also, how is SLI/Crossfire performance? Is one more or less functional/buggy than the other?

You can run 3 monitors off of one AMD card. If you're going to get 2 graphics card no matter who you go with then go Nvidia for the entire setup as SLI > Xfire
 

scogoth

Member
squicken said:
Thanks for the info. So how does Apple do it? It must not be too large if Apple can fit it in its chassis. Is Intel the sole maker of said controller? I know with USB3 it's kind of hit and miss with performance and the various companies' implementation.

Apple does it by controlling everything in there machines and making custom motherboards. Its not too large, 12mmx12mm for the 2-channel controller (single port) found in the Macbook Air. The new chips are supposed to be same size but support 4-channels (two ports) for the full 40gbps throughput. Acer and Asus have already announced that their thunderbolt motherboards will be out next year.
 

Mupod

Member
I'm a bit confused by this intel smart response technology on Z68 motherboards.

From what I understand, it's meant to be used when you have a small SSD and want to add it to your current system (with windows installed on a traditional HDD). This is the only method described to use it in the documentation.

However, what if I have, for example, a 60 gig SSD and a 2TB hard drive, but I install my OS on the SSD. Now say I only installed it on a 40 gig partition, and I want to use the other 20 for the Z68 caching feature to improve the performance of my hard drive. Is this impossible or pointless?

It's what I imagined the feature being used for when I first read about it, but apparently I'm wrong according to the documentation of my new gigabyte motherboard. No big deal if I can't do it, just curious.
 
Mupod said:
I'm a bit confused by this intel smart response technology on Z68 motherboards.

From what I understand, it's meant to be used when you have a small SSD and want to add it to your current system (with windows installed on a traditional HDD). This is the only method described to use it in the documentation.

However, what if I have, for example, a 60 gig SSD and a 2TB hard drive, but I install my OS on the SSD. Now say I only installed it on a 40 gig partition, and I want to use the other 20 for the Z68 caching feature to improve the performance of my hard drive. Is this impossible or pointless?

It's what I imagined the feature being used for when I first read about it, but apparently I'm wrong according to the documentation of my new gigabyte motherboard. No big deal if I can't do it, just curious.

As I recall;

If you use a SSD for your OS drive, you cannot use a partition or a new SSD for caching.
 

DSN2K

Member
Think I've got a good deal here...sold my HD 5770 for £70 on Ebay, then went and got HD6850 for £100, so decent upgrade for £30.
 

MedIC86

Member
Sourtreats said:
Anyone have any suggestions for mice?

I was thinking of getting the Razer Deathadder ReSpawn.
1085807-b.jpg


Main usage; Gaming, Lots of Photoshop and Illustrator work and some modeling.

I got one recently, and i love !

i've used a lot of mices in the past years, but this one is awesome!
 

Spookie

Member
Mr Nightman said:
I have its previous model, the mx518 and it is such a great mouse. The g400 is the next mx518

I went mx518 to G9 and now Xai. Out of the bunch the Xai has been the best, feels like a very slick mx518 with more robust features.
 

Chozo

Member
Alright, so I managed to convince my family to let me build a computer on their dime as a college graduation gift. I'm looking for something in the $1500ish range (I've been using laptops for the past several years, so I'll need a monitor and such so I probably won't be able to push far beyond that), and after some research the configuration listed here on TechReport seemed like as good a starting point as any.

My obligatory form:

Basic Desktop Questions:
Your Current Specs: It's a four year-old laptop. I could go into detail, but really the old girl is showing her age.
Budget: ~$1500 (US)
Main Use: Gaming
Monitor Resolution: 1920x1080 minimum, probably
List SPECIFIC games that you MUST be able to play: I would like to be able to finish Crysis on a card that will not shit itself every half hour. I'd like to be able to play most games that will come out in the next couple years capably, but I don't necessarily need balls to the wall extreme graphics quality, 8x AA, etc.
Are reusing any parts?: Nope
When will you build?: As soon as I can figure out what parts I want and can haggle on the price with my family. So, a couple weeks or so.
Will you be overclocking?: maybe


So, current selection of parts:
http://i56.tinypic.com/y2ec7.jpg

Going to add a Xonar DG, but not in stock on Newegg ATM so not listed.

I'm not quite seeing the difference between the current, $180 motherboard and the $250 deluxe one. Is the upgrade worth the extra $80 in this setup? Also, is there anything pathetically obvious that I'm missing?
 

MisterNoisy

Member
Sourtreats said:
Anyone have any suggestions for mice?

I was thinking of getting the Razer Deathadder ReSpawn.
1085807-b.jpg


Main usage; Gaming, Lots of Photoshop and Illustrator work and some modeling.

Logitech G500 or G9x. Both are excellent mice with high-dpi sensors and lots of adjustability.
 
Chozo said:
Alright, so I managed to convince my family to let me build a computer on their dime as a college graduation gift. I'm looking for something in the $1500ish range (I've been using laptops for the past several years, so I'll need a monitor and such so I probably won't be able to push far beyond that), and after some research the configuration listed here on TechReport seemed like as good a starting point as any.

My obligatory form:

Basic Desktop Questions:
Your Current Specs: It's a four year-old laptop. I could go into detail, but really the old girl is showing her age.
Budget: ~$1500 (US)
Main Use: Gaming
Monitor Resolution: 1920x1080 minimum, probably
List SPECIFIC games that you MUST be able to play: I would like to be able to finish Crysis on a card that will not shit itself every half hour. I'd like to be able to play most games that will come out in the next couple years capably, but I don't necessarily need balls to the wall extreme graphics quality, 8x AA, etc.
Are reusing any parts?: Nope
When will you build?: As soon as I can figure out what parts I want and can haggle on the price with my family. So, a couple weeks or so.
Will you be overclocking?: maybe


So, current selection of parts:
http://i56.tinypic.com/y2ec7.jpg

Going to add a Xonar DG, but not in stock on Newegg ATM so not listed.

I'm not quite seeing the difference between the current, $180 motherboard and the $250 deluxe one. Is the upgrade worth the extra $80 in this setup? Also, is there anything pathetically obvious that I'm missing?

For gaming go with a 2500k cpu.

You don't need a PSU that powerful and expensive

Mother boards, look at asrock P67 or Z68 Extreme 4 Gen3 also. Lots of features and good price

Get a SSD for your OS drive. Preferably a Crucial M4 128GB
Use the F4 for data and such

I'd go Haf X over the 650D. Look on Corsair forums for people having issues with the front fan noise and the DIY jobs they've done to fix them. The HAF X also has 2 USB 3.0 ports for the front panel which will compliment a mobo (like the arocks' mentioned) that have 2 USB3.0 connectors for the front panel. I'd get the Corsair if they would fix the fan issues. For that much price, I will not have any tolerance for such annoyance

Careful about RAM with tall heatsinks. Can cause issues with clearance. Also stick with 1.5v RAM or lower (1.5 is perfectly fine)

There is no reason why you should not overclock the CPU to a very comfortable 4.4ghz or so.

I've done waaay too much research on a new build the past month or so and this is my feedback.
 
Sourtreats said:
Anyone have any suggestions for mice?

I was thinking of getting the Razer Deathadder ReSpawn.
1085807-b.jpg


Main usage; Gaming, Lots of Photoshop and Illustrator work and some modeling.

I have the Deathadder 3.5G. Best mouse I've ever used, great ergonomics and feels perfect at 1800 dpi for me since I mainly play mouse sensitive games like FPS.
 

Wthermans

Banned
Well I got the majority of the parts for my new build today from Newegg. But my HAF-X is broke so I'm having to RMA it back to Newegg. Only downside is that they gave me a Ground Shipping Label so they won't even get it until next Wednesday. Then another 3-4 business days for RMA processing and they are supposed to send out a replacement via Next Day Air.

Only problem with that is the case is now listed as Out of Stock on Newegg and it doesn't look like they'll be getting anymore back in (it's the HAF-X with Blue LEDs). That means Newegg will just give me a refund instead of sending out a HAF-X with Red LEDs which is the same exact case. So now I'm going to have to purchase the other case myself, lose out of the Next Day Air shipping from my RMA and have to deal with whatever the free or cheapest shipping option they have is. Oh yeah and pay a $10 premium compared to the other case because Newegg just increased the price on the Red LED HAF-X since the other one is out of stock.

So now my build is delayed by 2-3 weeks and I'm going to have to pay even more for this case.

I am not pleased with Newegg's service. I have to pay 9.75% on every order since they have a warehouse in Memphis, yet I've never had a single item ship from that warehouse in the 7-8 years I've been ordering from them.

/rant off
 

squicken

Member
DMczaf said:
Does anyone have any experience with XFX Support?

I haven't had a reply to my ticket in 3 days :\

Were you the one who could return to Amazon? Why not just do that, if still within the 30 day window? Dealing with manufacturer RMA processes always is an ordeal

Do they have a way to track the status somewhere on the webpage?
 

DMczaf

Member
squicken said:
Were you the one who could return to Amazon? Why not just do that, if still within the 30 day window? Dealing with manufacturer RMA processes always is an ordeal

Do they have a way to track the status somewhere on the webpage?

Found out I couldn't, Amazon doesn't accept returns without the UPC code (which I sent with the rebate).

:\
 

squicken

Member
DMczaf said:
Found out I couldn't, Amazon doesn't accept returns without the UPC code (which I sent with the rebate).

:\

I looked around on their website. There doesn't seem to be a place to track an RMA ticket? And there's not a link in any emails they sent you? I had to RMA something with Cooler Master on a case, and it took a few days for them to respond. But I was always able to track the timeline.
 

DMczaf

Member
squicken said:
I looked around on their website. There doesn't seem to be a place to track an RMA ticket? And there's not a link in any emails they sent you? I had to RMA something with Cooler Master on a case, and it took a few days for them to respond. But I was always able to track the timeline.

They have a support ticket system where you are pretty much having a conversation with a technician. I replied to the technician with more details on Monday, and he hasn't replied back since.
 

squicken

Member
DMczaf said:
They have a support ticket system where you are pretty much having a conversation with a technician. I replied to the technician with more details on Monday, and he hasn't replied back since.

That sucks. I'd try to Live Chat again tomorrow, since there doesn't seem to be any other choice. I definitely know I won't ever be buying XFX products
 

knitoe

Member
Here are some benchmarks for my Raid 0 OCZ 60GB Solid 3 SSD which I bought for $118 after MIR.

raidatto.jpg

raidcrystal.jpg

raidas.jpg


Pretty good for the price and better than the 60GB OCZ Vertex 2 I was running before.
 

Le-mo

Member
I ran MSIBurner while running Left 4 Dead 2 and my GPU temperature min/max are 41/51. Is that good?

Edit: Max just shot up to 59.
 

gokieks

Member
squicken said:
I looked around on their website. There doesn't seem to be a place to track an RMA ticket? And there's not a link in any emails they sent you? I had to RMA something with Cooler Master on a case, and it took a few days for them to respond. But I was always able to track the timeline.

I RMAed my old HD4890 (fan failed) with XFX just a few months ago, and it went very smoothly. Their techs does take a little bit of time to respond, but you can always check the status of the RMA:

Go to http://xfxforce.com/en-us/Help/Support/Home.aspx and login. You should see your product (that you've registered, which is a requirement before you can get support for it), under which there will be a "Support Tickets" link. Clicking that should take you to a page where, at the bottom, will show any tickets you've already created and its current status. Clicking the ticket number will bring up a details page that includes all the messages that have been sent between you and XFX.

Here's what mine from my RMA looks like:

[ 6/17/2011 10:45:55 PM] The fan on the videocard seems to have failed - it is no longer spinning at all, which has been causing the computer to randomly shut down/restart/lost.
[MARK_C 6/20/2011 10:30:50 PM] Hello XXXXXXX, We are sorry to hear that this has happened. Please double check that your serial number is registered correctly. Verify that your Account information (http://xfxsupport.info/downloads/ACCT_INFO.jpg) has your current contact phone number and shipping address that someone will be able to sign for a package (no PO boxes allowed for FedEx shipments) when a product is returned to you, FedEx requires these things when shipping anything in case they have to contact you about delivery, and we can escalate this for RMA evaluation. When we issue an RMA it pulls the address that is in your account information at that time. Updating your account information after the RMA is issued will not update the address that the package is being returned to. Thank you. Mark
[ 6/20/2011 10:34:29 PM] OK, the address and phone number has been updated.
[DANIEL_E 6/22/2011 9:56:56 PM] Hello, I have authorized your RMA (Return Merchandise Authorization) so that you can send your XFX product(s) with serial(s) XXXXXXXXX in to get serviced. Your RMA number is XXXXXXXXXXX. Please copy and paste the following link into your browser, http://driver.xfxsupport.com/public/other/PCA_RMA_TC.pdf This form contains all the details for sending your product in for warranty service. Please read this document carefully before sending your product in. The address being used for return shipping is: XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX. If for some reason you need to use a different return shipping address or telephone number then please notify us immediately at rmashipping@xfxforce.com. Include your ticket number as the subject line. Changing the address in your online profile will NOT update the return address on the RMA.
[WILLIAM 6/28/2011 7:43:25 PM] We have received your recent returns ref: XCR59565. Your returns will be passed to the RMA department for testing and diagnosis. We will notify you on completion. Thank You. XFX Support Team
[WILLIAM 6/28/2011 11:06:46 PM] Your recent returns ref: XXXXXXXXX has recently completed the testing process with the following status: {XXXXXXXXX = FAULTY}. A technician will be in contact shortly to discuss completion of this return. If you have any queries regarding this test result - please send a message to the support team. Thank You. XFX Support Team
[JASONN 6/29/2011 11:36:42 PM] We have despatched your recent returns ref: XXXXXXX via www.fedex.com with tracking reference: XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX. If you have any queries regarding this action - please send a message to the support team. Thank You. XFX Support Team
[JASONN 6/29/2011 11:36:45 PM] We have now completed your recent returns ref: XCR59565. If you have any queries regarding this action - please send a message to the support team. Thank You. XFX Support Team

This was by far the least painful RMA process I've had. You should try ASUS to see what terrible RMAing is (no response to RMA ticket until use live chat days later, send in card, no further communication, have same card returned back at door steps 3 weeks later with no explanation whatsoever).
 

longdi

Banned
as a former razer user, i vote for logitech g700, the shape, plastic and grip feels better than DA, no more sticky rubberized grip! love the multi buttons espically the left/right scroll wheel for tab browsing.
i would ignore the wireless, too much hassle to plug in and out the cable every 2-3 days.
1308683050_IJLCCB.jpg
 

MrOogieBoogie

BioShock Infinite is like playing some homeless guy's vivid imagination
rhfb said:
Wow, 2500k cpu takes a ton of force to install. And the noise the pins makes made me so nervous. Installing windows now though :)

I had the exact same experience with my i3-2100. It was my first time building a PC, so you could imagine how nervous I was when I had to apply so much force to lock the CPU in place. Nearly gave me a heart attack.
 

Hawk269

Member
Le-mo said:
I ran MSIBurner while running Left 4 Dead 2 and my GPU temperature min/max are 41/51. Is that good?

Edit: Max just shot up to 59.

Well you are not telling us what GPU you have, but for the grand majority of GPU's, those temps are really good man. But, L4D2 does not really tax GPU's that much. If your run the Unigine Benchmark at the highest settings and let it run anywhere from 4-6 runs and then check your temps, it would give you a more realistic look at how you are temp wise for you GPU.
 

Le-mo

Member
Hawk269 said:
Well you are not telling us what GPU you have, but for the grand majority of GPU's, those temps are really good man. But, L4D2 does not really tax GPU's that much. If your run the Unigine Benchmark at the highest settings and let it run anywhere from 4-6 runs and then check your temps, it would give you a more realistic look at how you are temp wise for you GPU.
I have the Asus HD radeon 6950. I forgot to mention that the temperature is in C.
 
Finally built my new computer, can't get it to POST. >_<.

i5 2500k in a Maximus IV Gene-Z. RAM is these Ripjaws from G.SKILL. The debug led on the motherboard stops at DRAM_LED and the error code is 2E, which according to the manual is 'memory initialization'.

I've tried putting the RAM sticks in various configurations and clearing CMOS etc., no go. Largely runs back down to the same error code.

I don't have any spare DDR3 RAM to test against the two G.SKILL sticks, though. And I'd rather not buy more if I'm not at least fairly sure that they're the problem.

Help me, PC-GAF!
 

gokieks

Member
darkblade77 said:
Finally built my new computer, can't get it to POST. >_<.

i5 2500k in a Maximus IV Gene-Z. RAM is these Ripjaws from G.SKILL. The debug led on the motherboard stops at DRAM_LED and the error code is 2E, which according to the manual is 'memory initialization'.

I've tried putting the RAM sticks in various configurations and clearing CMOS etc., no go. Largely runs back down to the same error code.

I don't have any spare DDR3 RAM to test against the two G.SKILL sticks, though. And I'd rather not buy more if I'm not at least fairly sure that they're the problem.

Help me, PC-GAF!

Clear CMOS, use only 1 stick of RAM, and try the MemOK button which should set memory timings to the loosest settings.
 
gokieks said:
Clear CMOS, use only 1 stick of RAM, and try the MemOK button which should set memory timings to the loosest settings.

Tried this with both individual sticks of ram separately, no good. Same error with the LED next to that button lit up and flashing as well.
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
Chozo said:
Alright, so I managed to convince my family to let me build a computer on their dime as a college graduation gift. I'm looking for something in the $1500ish range (I've been using laptops for the past several years, so I'll need a monitor and such so I probably won't be able to push far beyond that), and after some research the configuration listed here on TechReport seemed like as good a starting point as any.

My obligatory form:

Basic Desktop Questions:
Your Current Specs: It's a four year-old laptop. I could go into detail, but really the old girl is showing her age.
Budget: ~$1500 (US)
Main Use: Gaming
Monitor Resolution: 1920x1080 minimum, probably
List SPECIFIC games that you MUST be able to play: I would like to be able to finish Crysis on a card that will not shit itself every half hour. I'd like to be able to play most games that will come out in the next couple years capably, but I don't necessarily need balls to the wall extreme graphics quality, 8x AA, etc.
Are reusing any parts?: Nope
When will you build?: As soon as I can figure out what parts I want and can haggle on the price with my family. So, a couple weeks or so.
Will you be overclocking?: maybe


So, current selection of parts:
http://i56.tinypic.com/y2ec7.jpg

Going to add a Xonar DG, but not in stock on Newegg ATM so not listed.

I'm not quite seeing the difference between the current, $180 motherboard and the $250 deluxe one. Is the upgrade worth the extra $80 in this setup? Also, is there anything pathetically obvious that I'm missing?
I'll endorse what is said here. Anything above that for mobo is mostly extras. Case is personal.
PSU is overkill, but a very good one. I'd cut back if you are thinking 1 card only and try to squeeze in an M4 or Intel 510 SSD.
RukusProvider said:
For gaming go with a 2500k cpu.

You don't need a PSU that powerful and expensive

Mother boards, look at asrock P67 or Z68 Extreme 4 Gen3 also. Lots of features and good price

Get a SSD for your OS drive. Preferably a Crucial M4 128GB
Use the F4 for data and such

I'd go Haf X over the 650D. Look on Corsair forums for people having issues with the front fan noise and the DIY jobs they've done to fix them. The HAF X also has 2 USB 3.0 ports for the front panel which will compliment a mobo (like the arocks' mentioned) that have 2 USB3.0 connectors for the front panel. I'd get the Corsair if they would fix the fan issues. For that much price, I will not have any tolerance for such annoyance

Careful about RAM with tall heatsinks. Can cause issues with clearance. Also stick with 1.5v RAM or lower (1.5 is perfectly fine)

There is no reason why you should not overclock the CPU to a very comfortable 4.4ghz or so.

I've done waaay too much research on a new build the past month or so and this is my feedback.
darkblade77 said:
Tried this with both individual sticks of ram separately, no good. Same error with the LED next to that button lit up and flashing as well.
Following your motherboard manual for this? It didn't work for me until about 3 reboots on my machine. Make sure it is in the correct 'first' slot it wants.
Might want a hard power off, unplug the machine, hold power button, turn back on. In there too.
 
It is official - I will be picking up my new machine tomorrow. Right now I am using an AMD Athlon 64 X2 3800+, 2 gigs of RAM, an nforce 4 mobo (NF-CK804 per cpu-z), and a 9500 GT. I am going to an i5 2500k, 8 gigs of Kingston Hyper X RAM, a Gigabyte Z68A-D3H-B3 mobo, and an EVGA Superclocked GTX 570 with an 80 gig Intel 320 ssd to boot. I also bought a 23.6" 1080p monitor to replace my 19" 1440x900 ViewSonic. I think it would be fair to say I will notice a difference, right? :)

Before I started hanging out and reading this thread, I would never have considered overclocking. Now, I am thinking I want to give it a shot. Earlier today, at a different forum, I actually had the first person tell me to not bother. His explanation was that boosting the i5 wouldn't really change all that much. Another guy told me one of the first things I should do is bump the cpu to 4 ghz. I'm confused :-/. Is it as simple as getting into the bios and changing the core speed to 40? If it is, I don't see why I wouldn't. Your thoughts would be appreciated.

I had the machine built by Cyperpower and they are supposed to have put it through quality control, but would it be a good idea to download Prime95 and see how it holds up?
 
Hazaro said:
Following your motherboard manual for this? It didn't work for me until about 3 reboots on my machine. Make sure it is in the correct 'first' slot it wants.
Might want a hard power off, unplug the machine, hold power button, turn back on. In there too.

Still stuck at error code 2E and DRAM_LED rather than making it to POST. I'm going to start going over this component by component now, hopefully I'll find something other than RAM that's causing this. *sigh*
 
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