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"I need a New PC!" 2011 Thread of reading the OP. Seriously. [Part 2]

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vaelic

Banned
Yep. My very first built of my own. Now with modular. I tried my best with hiding the wires.

Going to wait for Ivy bridge and the next Nvidia stuff as upgrades. Don't really need a high end GPU since I do not game on my PC. But it's nice to have in case someone else wants to or just for kicks. I already have over 4TB of space, 16GB of fast ram, Asus 7.1 sound card, and a faster than average SSD so I'm set there.

TWTg8.jpg


QnIaT.png

whats with the hello kitty? other than blocking air flow
 

mkenyon

Banned
Yes you can.

Also @HelloKitty rig:
I've long wanted to do a pink and white themed build. Components to match the theme are seemingly impossible to find, and good cable sleeves in pink are equally as hard to find. One day.

But yeah, as others have said, Kitty is blocking airflow.
 

scogoth

Member
Yep. My very first built of my own. Now with modular. I tried my best with hiding the wires.

Going to wait for Ivy bridge and the next Nvidia stuff as upgrades. Don't really need a high end GPU since I do not game on my PC. But it's nice to have in case someone else wants to or just for kicks. I already have over 4TB of space, 16GB of fast ram, Asus 7.1 sound card, and a faster than average SSD so I'm set there.

TWTg8.jpg


QnIaT.png

Loving the lights, blue and white is my kind of colour scheme.
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
I've done memtest 86+ for 16 hours already, but I guess I can let it run a full 24.

Temperatures are fine, at stock voltage and speed CPU never runs hotter than 51 degrees at full load. GPU is similar, tops out at 47 or so.

(that's a Q9550 and an HD6770, so the temps are well below max).

I'm just trying to rule stuff out, but I'm finding it very difficult to find which part is actually failing from the stresstesting...
Hmm. Have you tried running memtest on each stick just to make sure? Or running the machine on 1 stick if possible.
I'd say check the PSU voltages if possible next, then just RMA the mobo... Maybe stick a pointed at the mobo heatsink while you are at it.
Frustrating.
How bright do Kadey's top and bottom LED fans have to be to light up the whole case? I'm a little interested.
Pretty sure there are two cold cathodes in there.
Question, I can I use:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231428

in

http://www.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=3439#dl

It says DDR3 and 1600, and that's what I use now, but I apparently have a P55 board and this says P67, etc. I'm pretty in the dark on memory.
Yes it is fine.
 

mkenyon

Banned
(Stolen from OCN poster downlinx)




The PC-100 is a long overdue redesign of the traditional PC chassis that improves cooling, prolongs component life, and saves space. This compact mid tower case is roomy enough for the longest graphics cards and largest E-ATX/XL-ATX/ATX motherboards, thanks to its innovative layout. It is also remarkably easy to assemble without tools.
Superior cooling helps CPUs and graphics cards run at maximum speed without slowdowns or crashes due to overheating. This also means higher speeds for overclockers, and extends the life of disk drives and motherboards. However, traditional case layouts have two serious barriers to optimal cooling, performance, and ease-of-use: firstly, they block airflow with a wall of hard disk drives inside the front of the case. Secondly, important ports and connectors are at the back, making them difficult to access – a defect that manufacturers can only try to address by adding a few front panel connectors.
For the first time, a case is available that provides a clear path for cool air to flow unimpeded across the CPU, chipset, and voltage regulation components, forcing heat out of the case with maximum efficiency. The result is a dramatic improvement in cooling performance with standard PC parts, and no extra cost. The PC-100 actually needs less space than competing cases, but provides a less cramped interior, easier access to external connectors, and a shorter, more direct path for airflow.
In the PC-100, the motherboard is rotated 180 degrees. So all those hard-to-reach connectors at the back of traditional PCs are now easily accessible at the front of the PC-100, and the graphics card is much closer to cool air drawn in at the front. Meanwhile, the hard disk drives are moved to the side of the case from their traditional location at the front (similar to Lian Li’s recently released PC-90 chassis). The airflow direction remains the same, from the front of the case to the back, driven by two large, quiet 140mm fans filling the rear of the case, and another 120mm fan at the front.
The front panel keeps things neat, with a cable access door. If necessary, any cable can still be routed to the rear or side internally through ducts, so no extra cables protrude from the front of the case and the front panel can be opened without unplugging cables.
The PC-100 also offers enhanced hard drive cooling. With the top side of three hard drives now arranged flat against the outside of the case, they are able to radiate heat directly to the outside over a bigger surface area, instead of being crammed together in a stack as they are in traditional cases. And there’s still unimpeded airflow moving across every drive.
Unobstructed airflow reduces noise, as well as keeping the PC cooler. To further control noise and vibration, there are rubber anti-vibration pads under the case, and the disk drives are isolated with rubber strips on the hard drive tray.
All the neat Lian Li features that buyers have come to expect are still there, like washable air filters, a graphics card holder for stability and protection, and water cooling ports.
There’s space for up to 8 full sized drives and 8 expansion slots. For removable and optical drives, there are two bays at the front of the case – at the top to avoid obstructing air flow.
Cool both inside and out, the PC-100′s classic black anodized aluminum construction and smooth, rounded lines provide the perfect understated complement to the technical wizardry concealed inside.
Product Highlights of Lian Li PC-100
Truly innovative design for optimal cooling performance
All cables accessible at the front for unprecedented ease of use
Supports E-ATX, XL-ATX, ATX and Micro ATX motherboards
Accepts video cards up to 400mm, CPU coolers up to 165mm
Up to 8 drives, including 2 external
Multiple noise reduction and vibration damping features
Product will be available in the market by end of December
MSRP: US$199

Really interesting design. Expansion slots and I/O in the front of the case, and hard drives mounted completely out of the way of airflow. Looks like it'll do great with a few rads too. Nice to see someone outside of Silverstone messing with the classic design and trying to innovate.
 

TheExodu5

Banned
I am very interested in that case.

Edit: wait...the rear I/O panel is at the front of the case? How does that work? Won't it be an ugly mess of wires?
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
Also need new title. Or slightly different at least.
Yeah, 2012. Let me know if you need help with anything. I now know how much of a chore it can be to get an OP all highly organized.
There's some stuff that needs revamping, but largely it was going to be a carry over OP post.

I'd like some more condensed links in the second post instead of placing text there.

Also being better about how everything is laid out. I don't have a good grasp of monitor selection + KB/M + speakers. I should probably link the headphone thread and put all of that under an accessories header.
 

mkenyon

Banned
I am very interested in that case.

Edit: wait...the rear I/O panel is at the front of the case? How does that work? Won't it be an ugly mess of wires?

The front panel keeps things neat, with a cable access door. If necessary, any cable can still be routed to the rear or side internally through ducts, so no extra cables protrude from the front of the case and the front panel can be opened without unplugging cables.
Also need new title. Or slightly different at least.
There's some stuff that needs revamping, but largely it was going to be a carry over OP post.

I'd like some more condensed links in the second post instead of placing text there.

Also being better about how everything is laid out. I don't have a good grasp of monitor selection + KB/M + speakers. I should probably link the headphone thread and put all of that under an accessories header.
http://www.overclock.net/t/491752/mechanical-keyboard-guide

Should be useful, maybe a link to elitekeyboards as well?

I like the idea of an accessories header. I'm clueless on monitors though. Exodu5 and Corky seem to know what's up.

With the mouse, the correct answer is Steelseries Sensei.
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
Ok I actually just did the new OP layout. Pretty easy.

Second post I'm not so sure what to do about though.
**Nope, I've got it all laid out. Not even that much work going into 2012.

So far:
Add ctrl+f at top

Move around sections to make more sense.
Better headers
PCPartsPicker
'Picking your parts' anandtech bench, single/dual card, psu wattage
'Putting it all together' Paste, video guides
Removal of wishlist links (timesink for updating)
Add rating scale for PC needed tasks (1-5) aka gaming, emulation, etc
Accessories header
Add FPS capping to utilities with Radeon Pro
Remove Rivetuner and eVGA Percision for MSI Afterburner
Anything that isn't a game has to use "Thread" instead of OT. At least that's what seem to be happening in the gaming section. Look at the Steam and Cheap arse gaffer thread titles.
I'd say go with 2012.
So that is why it changed, good to know.

*Average post rate means I have like 3 days for 2012 Thread... Hmm...
 

Chris R

Member
That case does look pretty cool. Are there any ports on top of the case or are they just expecting everything to be plugged into the motherboard directly? I'd still like to see 1/2 USB 3.0 ports and a speaker/mic port, just for ease of use.
 

Gav47

Member
Anything that isn't a game has to use "Thread" instead of OT. At least that's what seem to be happening in the gaming section. Look at the Steam and Cheap arse gaffer thread titles.
I'd say go with 2012.
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
Ok I did some preliminary changes to the OP. Check it out.
Pretty tempted to just order something from Maingear. How's this?

http://www.maingear.com/boutique/pc...d=0&idconf=18426&act=placeOrder&idproduct=628
Lot of not so great parts in there and for $2,200 I'd get you a better system and and do direct phone support. Really that is a $1,500 system tops. Maingear marks up because of the service and warranty they offer. And it's a lot. Worth it to some though.
Also if you don't mind going AMD (ATi) for your GPU they should have a new part out in less than 3 weeks (supposedly).

PM me when you do decide to actually go through on something.
Anyone have opinions on this premade?
It's not bad, but if you did decide to build it yourself you would have substantially better components, longer warranty on parts, 40% better gaming performance, overclockability, and save $50. You lose 4 threads, but those don't help gaming much. 4 cores is 4 cores.
550 Ti = GTX 460.
 

Flunkie

Banned
Ok I did some preliminary changes to the OP. Check it out.

Lot of not so great parts in there and for $2,200 I'd get you a better system and and do direct phone support. Really that is a $1,500 system tops. Maingear marks up because of the service and warranty they offer. And it's a lot. Worth it to some though.
Also if you don't mind going AMD (ATi) for your GPU they should have a new part out in less than 3 weeks (supposedly).

PM me when you do decide to actually go through on something.

I chose AMD for my last GPU and overall I'd say I am not pleased. I had always been an nVidia guy until then, and I'm pretty sure I want to go back. I want this one to last me awhile so I want a 2600K or something that won't be totally obsolete in a year. I would wait for new nVidia cards but those seem a long way off still. I'm hoping to get something quick, as I think my GPU is dying in my current gaming workstation laptop.

Currently have an HP 8740w w/ Q720 @ a whopping 1.60 and a FirePro 7820M. Yeah. See, last time I bought a computer I figured I'd kill two birds with one stone by getting a workstation for engineering, and those would also be totally okay for gaming. I've been struggling as of late.
 

LiquidMetal14

hide your water-based mammals
I had bought my PC earlier this year and settled for a 4.5ghz OC but never really found out how to get higher. I read a little and found out increasing vcore settings to allow more power to the CPU and have been running prime95 for about a half hour and temps are good and am holding a solid 4.62ghz. It's not much and my temps and vcore aren't much different but I just want it to not bsod. So far so good. Anyone have any further tips on certain bios settings? I haven't touched PLL override or anything either.

Disablled c3 and c6 states and keps CE1. I can't remember if prime is supposed to stop or if I have to stop it but intitial tests on this new OC got me BSOD's within 10 minutes. This one has been going for at least half an hour. I know that's much but I can't really have this PC on for hours so don't ask me to do that :p

As I said, I will take tips on some voltage tweaks in order to guarantee me safer OC.

EDIT - Monitoring prime, it hit a phase just now where it made my temp jump to 68C briefly and its holding steady. I have aftermarket cooling and mind you, during previous stress tests, it capped at 62 when I was at a lower OC so it's not a huge jump but I'm merely reporting what I see as I go. I know it could be worse and into the 90's :p

EDIT 2 - Definitely stable and no 000000124 BSOD which dinged me a few times before doing more tweaks. I know it's not a huge bump and I don't know how high some are going here but for running on 100% stress with blend, it's holding up very well. I'm not used to seeing it climb into the higher 60's these days but that's because I haven't messed with voltage since I settled on my OC. If this holds like it is, I will stay at this OC.

EDIT 3 - Even longer now and temp has peaked and steadied at 66-68 doing the FFT 9K length. Apparently upping some voltage settings helped. I never peak this high during games too so if this is as high as it gets with continuous 100% stress then I'm happier. I don't know if I should try higher since I don't want temps getting too out of control. This extra boost oughta net me a might 1fps in Skyrim :p
 

Smokey

Member
LiveJournal Update 4:

motherFUCKER. I bought another AX850 on my way home from work today. Took out mine and popped in the new one and whatdoyaknow. Muthafucka still has the same cold boot issues. Safe to say the PSU can be ruled out. Now that leaves on the System Panel connections from the case, or the motherboard itself. Glad I did that instead of sending in my AX850 for another only to find out the problem still persists. UGHHHHHH

About ready to drop this thing on its head.
 

RS4-

Member
This wc'd FT02 makes me so jealous: http://forum.hardware.fr/hfr/Overcl...og-silverstone-watercooled-sujet_275102_1.htm

8f54a63c94ef3064dc02bd6d400de94a7d2b1cfb.jpeg


I could get a hold of an RX480 but I would have to figure out where to put my third HDD (two mechanical, one SSD); I suppose I could do it like he did, but I'm not sure how well that'd work with the fan inside the HDD case blowing up towards the HDD like that. I could always put it in one of the 5.25 bays as well.

And since I don't plan on going a full block on my GPU or even one of the universal ones, I might have an issue with clearance with the GPU length after the fans are sitting on top of the rad.

:(
 

Natiko

Banned
I was wondering what all I should do if I want to get a desktop PC to use with my tv. I don't want to setup a regular station with a monitor and everything, I would use it exclusively for gaming on a big screen tv. Is this feasible? Are there any special features my tv would need?
 

LiquidMetal14

hide your water-based mammals
Currently speedfan says my fan speed is 25%. Would changing that be a good idea?

Depending on your tolerance for noise. You on stock cooling? When I clean my 6970 with my Artic Accelero Pro, it idles as low as 36. Stock cooling was at your levels which was not ok for me. It was actually a little lower since I made a fan profile in MSI Afterburner to fire up the fans faster and it was loud. With this cooling, even at 100 percent, it's as loud as the stock GPU fan at about 30% fan speed. Crazy. And my temps have dropped as much as 30C.

So in other words, I would recommend you up the speed to tackle the temp before it goes too high, too fast. If you can't stand fan noise then leave it be.

And to report back on my OC. I just played Skyrim for 2 hours and my CPU temp peaked at 62C. It normally goes to 60-61 when playing high end games so the jump in real world applications has been minimal. It's only when doing true stress tests that my peak is not 68.
 
Are those outlet panels that come with Biostar motherboards always such a b*tch to put in? All those damn prongs kept getting in the way even after I bent them back. Then I broke one, and had to take everything back out because I didn't want a sliver of metal to cause a short.

I still don't think it's put in right.
 

RS4-

Member
Currently speedfan says my fan speed is 25%. Would changing that be a good idea?

My 6950 idles at that and I got used to the noise. Idle temps for me around 50c or so; while I play BF3 it jumps up to under 65 or something so it isn't bad.

But yeah, its just a matter of preference and how much noise you can take.
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
Currently speedfan says my fan speed is 25%. Would changing that be a good idea?
Check out MSI Afterburner and make a custom fan profile. I have mine ramp from 25% to 65% fan speed.
I was wondering what all I should do if I want to get a desktop PC to use with my tv. I don't want to setup a regular station with a monitor and everything, I would use it exclusively for gaming on a big screen tv. Is this feasible? Are there any special features my tv would need?
I have not done this myself and sometimes there is a bit of fuss, but the general thing is you change your color settings on your GPU to a TV and resolution to the TV and specific stuff you figure out as you go. That's the gist of it though.
Are those outlet panels that come with Biostar motherboards always such a b*tch to put in? All those damn prongs kept getting in the way even after I bent them back. Then I broke one, and had to take everything back out because I didn't want a sliver of metal to cause a short.

I still don't think it's put in right.
Front panel? Usually annoying for most boards.
 

Celcius

°Temp. member
"I need a New PC!" 2012 Thread of Waiting for Ivy Bridge

"I need a New PC!" 2012 Thread of Free Sandy Bridge-E for Everyone

"I need a New PC!" 2012 Thread of Socket 1155 is Here to Stay

lol
 

vaelic

Banned
Check out MSI Afterburner and make a custom fan profile. I have mine ramp from 25% to 65% fan speed.

I have not done this myself and sometimes there is a bit of fuss, but the general thing is you change your color settings on your GPU to a TV and resolution to the TV and specific stuff you figure out as you go. That's the gist of it though.

Front panel? Usually annoying for most boards.

Are to post a screenshot of your afterburner ramp up points?
 

LiquidMetal14

hide your water-based mammals
Mine is overly complicated.
Idle where it stays constant. Taper off where you can stand the noise. So about 25% and 65% for me.

MnunT.png

I'm not so frugal ><

capturescjrj.png


But then again I have after market cooling which makes the sound level incredibly tolerable. I just don't want my temps to ever go into the 80's again and by all means I'm keeping it that way. Before cleaning it a few days back, BF3 peaked at about 74 after a couple hours. Now it' peaks at about 70 with some dust removal.

Late edit - I'm idling at 40 now after some hours of gaming. I comes down a couple degrees or more during winter too.
 
Not that I'm throwing it back in as a suggestion, but it did seem like "read the OP" did have some positive results, as more people came in with the questionnaire already filled in, or "I mostly used Haz's ___ build, and I need someone to look over this." An uptick compared to earlier threads, anyway.
 

coopolon

Member
So my in-laws are fishing for xmas present ideas for me.

Originally was going to ask for a cpu, to which I would add mobo and ram to upgrade me computer to 2500k but I think I'm actually pretty happy with performance right now in the games I want to play so I'd rather wait another year before upgrading that. I'm still rocking a c2d e8400 and 5870 and the only game I am unhappy with my performance in is GTAIV. I guess I should be thankful for the long console generation?

So instead I am thinking about going SSD. Looking in OP it looks like Intel 320 or Crucial M4 are the best options. It seems like most of these drives are SATA3, but they should work fine on my SATA2 mobo correct?

Any other things I should know before sending them a link to the 120GB 320 or 128GB Crucial?

My mobo is a MSI P45 Platinum.
 

Korey

Member
How can I tell if a 140mm fan will fit in my case? Are they basically swappable with 120mm fans or do they require something special?
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
So instead I am thinking about going SSD. Looking in OP it looks like Intel 320 or Crucial M4 are the best options. It seems like most of these drives are SATA3, but they should work fine on my SATA2 mobo correct?

Any other things I should know before sending them a link to the 120GB 320 or 128GB Crucial?

My mobo is a MSI P45 Platinum.
Intel 5x reliable. (0.1% vs 0.5% failure) M4 faster in write speed. M4 isn't too impacted by SATA 2 performance. Your choice.
How can I tell if a 140mm fan will fit in my case? Are they basically swappable with 120mm fans or do they require something special?
Noooooooo. 140mm needs 140mm mounts. It's much bigger. Usually only on certain cases or like a Noctua $80 heatsink.
 
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