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"I need a New PC!" 2012 Thread. 22nm+28nm, Tri-Gate, and reading the OP. [Part 1]

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Hazaro

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Jan 21, 2008
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Updated OP. Besides subbing in the cards where obvious, I changed the default card of the $800 build to the 6870, bringing it down to $750. It's just so capable at 1080p at that price point.
 

Antagon

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Aug 10, 2006
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personally I wouldn't be that worried about the CPU temps as those can take quite a bit

I'd worry more about the motherboard's health ... just (unsuccessfully) finished trying to resurrect a broken HP ITX sized Core2Duo system I got from a family member. Completely dead motherboard :/ and that one had a well cooled (tower style cooler) cpu at the back of the motherboard

that 3.5" drive looks massive in there :p for that reason alone I got a Synology NAS for my XBMC setups ;)

I'd just try to tie up all cables really well and get two high quality 80 mm fans for a push-pull setup and run them at a low voltage (my Athlon X2 3800+ ATX htpc in a Silverstone LC17 is cooled by only two 80mm 5V outtake fans and a 5V tower style cpu cooler).

If the motherboard supports PWM cpu fans (I think every socket 1155 board does) I think you could even rig up the cpu cooler and case fans to be PWM controlled by cpu temperature from the bios with a PWM splitter (you would need special PWM casefans to do this though) ...

really nice looking case though ;)
Yeah, going to go home on the cabling tonight with tie wraps and double sided tape. Going to see if I can get in the second case fan as well, though it might actually block the airflow from the vents to the CPU. I think I can free up the current fan enough with some patience, I'm guessing that making it pull air out of the case would be the most efficient?
If that's not enough, a 1U cpu cooler should give me about half a cm of extra space between the fan and hdd.

The case fan is PWM controlled, but even at max speeds should be nearly silent. The CPU fan is temperature controlled, but only seems to have two stances (one that I can define and when it gets too hot it goes to max).
 

Skel1ingt0n

I can't *believe* these lazy developers keep making file sizes so damn large. Btw, how does technology work?
Apr 25, 2011
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Meh, got my GTX570 for $270 shipped couple months ago.

No thanks at the 7870 @ $350 with marginal improvements. (I game at 1920x1200)
Same. I managed to get my GTX570 for about $240 @ Microcenter back in September. I definitely don't see any reason go upgrade for a while, unless I come into a windfall and can drop $600 on top of the line stuff.
 

Wrayfield

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Feb 25, 2010
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I was wondering, is there a dedicated thread for gaming monitors? If so, I'd appreciate it if someone could point me to it. Just found a LCD/Plasma thread and this one.

Anyway, I am thinking about buying a bigger full-HD monitor for my gaming PC. Right now I'm using a 24" full-HD LCD from Asus. Nothing to complain here other than I'd like to upgrade it and use the current one as a second monitor.

Saw an interesting Samsung 27", would you guys say this is pretty much max size for PC gaming? I have plenty of space and could set up my system accordingly if I needed more space between monitor, keyboard and chair etc. Any hands-on experience you could share? While I don't want to spend thounsands on it, I don't need the cheapest option either. Thanks a lot in advance.

Edit: Also, no need for 3D option, just not my thing.
 

1-D_FTW

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Jun 14, 2006
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Posting here (Added text and TR):

http://www.hardocp.com/article/2012/03/04/amd_radeon_hd_7870_7850_video_card_review
http://www.anandtech.com/show/5625/amd-radeon-hd-7870-ghz-edition-radeon-hd-7850-review-rounding-out-southern-islands
http://techreport.com/articles.x/22573
http://www.guru3d.com/article/amd-radeon-hd-7850-and-7870-review/1

Quick summary: The 7850 replaces the 6950 @ $250. The 7870 is now the mid-high range card to buy @ $350. Power draw very low for their performance. Pricing is where it should be and not aggressive.


I guess. But I've been conditioned for new architecture to allow the 200 mid-range card to match the previous' generations high end card. This does, but at 350. Figured the 199 was b.s. And the new Kepler at 299 smells super b.s. too. Think I'm going to show some restraint and play the 100 games in my backlog that can already do 1080P@60fps and ignore the dozen or so that could use an upgrade. Helps that I'm loving the uber low power draws my new system is getting while gaming at 1080P @ 60fps. The i3 2120 rocks.
 

Amory

Member
Jul 10, 2008
10,238
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775
Connecticut
Trying my hand at building a PC for the first time. I followed the OP and chose what I think are appropriate parts, but I was hoping y'all could check the list of stuff I've got and give any last minute advice I may need before I place the order.

I want to build a PC that will smoothly run pretty much anything out right now (especially bethesda games, like skyrim and fallout: new vegas), but I also want it to be future proofed for a while. I'll use it pretty much exclusively for gaming. Here's what I've got at this point:

- Intel Core i5-2500K Processor
- ASUS P8Z68-V LX LGA 1155 Z68 SATA 6 Gb/s and USB 3.0 ATX Intel Z68 ATX DDR3 2200 Intel Motherboard
- Corsair Vengeance 8 GB ( 2 x 4 GB ) DDR3 1600 MHz (PC3 12800) 240-Pin DDR3 Memory Kit for Intel Core i3, i5, i7
- EVGA GeForce GTX560 Ti 448 Cores FTW 1280 MB GDDR5, Dual-DualLink DVI, HDMI, DisplayPort, SLI Graphics Cards 012-P3-2066-KR
- PRO550W Core Edition Full Wired 80+ Bronze Power Supply
- Asus 24xDVD±RW Serial ATA Internal OEM Drive DRW-24B1ST
- Samsung F4 2TB hard drive
- Copy of Windows 7

Sorry if I could've cut off most of those descriptions, I just copied and pasted them exactly as they appeared in my cart.

I'll also obviously be picking up a case. So how about it? Look ok? Should I add/change anything?

Thanks gaf, I'm pretty excited to get into this.
 
Feb 5, 2009
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This is in regards to RAM. What's the best deal in terms of price/size for DDR3 RAM in Amazon right now? Talking about quality RAM from known manufacturers and 4GB sticks.

Any recommendations are appreciated.
 
Oct 31, 2009
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Hi Everyone,

This thread is such a huge help! I am having some problems with my newly built PC. I can not pass Intel Burn Test or Prime 95 at stocks speeds! (I have been trying to make sure it was 100% stable for OCing) In addition any game I play crashes after a few minutes into it. I have run memtest86 to see if that may be the issue but it ran for 19 hours without an error. I had run it previously and it had a few errors but I reseated the ram and everything seems OK. Could it still be the ram? I took out the video card for now and am just using the IGPU. I fail the tests after like 1st run finishes. I have a 212+ for cooling and real temp says that my temps are at about 20-30ish idle and mid 40s under load until it crashes(IIRC) Here are my specs

Intel Core i5-2500K Processor
ASUS P8Z68-V LX
Corsair Vengeance 16 GB ( 4 x 4 GB ) DDR3 1600 MHz
EVGA GeForce GTX560 Ti 448 Cores FTW 1280 MB
Crucial M4 64 GB
Windows 7 Home Premium
Corsair 750W PS
LG BR Drive
I also have a fan controller hooked (sentry touch screen) My hyper cooler has push pull fans plus 7 others in the case. It doesnt seem to be an over heating issue. I just want to RMA the whole thing at this point.

Any help would be so appreciated. I have had some software and hardware guys take a look at it they couldn't figure it out. I think it has to be either memory or Motherboard at this point. For what its worth doing medial tasks is just fine. (Web surfing etc) but the stress tests fail and games crash to desktop. All firmware etc has been updated.

Please help! :)

Jim
 

sikkinixx

Member
Jan 24, 2008
6,093
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Great White North (eh?)
Hey so I just ordered a 128GB SSD and my current HDD is starting to click (5 years old so..) I erased enough shit to get it down to 110GB of stuff on it. What's the easiest way to clone the drive onto the SSD? I just installed Win 7 and games all fresh in January so I don't really want to do it again.

Also, do I need to worry about TRIM and all that jazz or will Win 7 deal with it for me? SSDs confuse me but this one was fast and cheap so I bit.
 
Feb 17, 2011
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Anyone with experience overclocking an AMD 1090T?

I decided to push it a little this weekend to 4.2Ghz but can't seem to get anything stable unless I up the voltage from 1.45 to 1.49. Does this seem like a safe voltage? I have read a lot of recommendations not to go over 1.45 but then some people say anything below 1.55 is fine.

I ran Prime 95 for a little over 12 hours and never exceeded 51C, so the temps seem alright. I'm still running on air cooling with a CM Hyper 212 Evo (w/ arctic silver) and my case is a HAF style case (Cooler Master Sniper) with 4 200MM fans and 2 120MM in a push/pull configuration on the CPU. In case it matters, I also upgraded my RAM from 4GB to 16GB. Thought it was worth mentioning since the voltage difference caused me some problems initially (old RAM was 1.5v this RAM is 1.25v). I just want to make sure the core voltage is safe.
I managed to bump the voltage down to 1.48 and remain stable under another Prime 95 Blend test for several hours. HWMonitor reports 1.50v at full load with temps maxing out at 52C (40C on the cores). Idle temps are 18-26C on the cores and 30-38C on the CPU. I also put a mild overclock on my 5870 (900/1250) and gamed for about 6-7 hours without any issues. While gaming, CPU temps never exceeded 48C and core temps never exceeded 39C with my case fans running at medium speed.

I'm going to keep monitoring but it looks like I'm in the clear.

This thread is such a huge help! I am having some problems with my newly built PC. I can not pass Intel Burn Test or Prime 95 at stocks speeds! (I have been trying to make sure it was 100% stable for OCing) In addition any game I play crashes after a few minutes into it. I have run memtest86 to see if that may be the issue but it ran for 19 hours without an error. I had run it previously and it had a few errors but I reseated the ram and everything seems OK. Could it still be the ram? I took out the video card for now and am just using the IGPU. I fail the tests after like 1st run finishes. I have a 212+ for cooling and real temp says that my temps are at about 20-30ish idle and mid 40s under load until it crashes(IIRC) Here are my specs

Any help would be so appreciated. I have had some software and hardware guys take a look at it they couldn't figure it out. I think it has to be either memory or Motherboard at this point. For what its worth doing medial tasks is just fine. (Web surfing etc) but the stress tests fail and games crash to desktop. All firmware etc has been updated.
What test are you running and what does your results log show? Are you getting BSOD, is the application crashing, or is your PC restarting? A Prime 95 Blend test can find issues with memory that memtest is not able to detect. Since you already reseated the RAM, verify your timing and voltage settings are correct, based on the manufacturer's recommendation. I would also recommend testing with one stick of RAM at a time to see if you can eliminate or pinpoint the problem.
 

Sethos

Banned
Apr 9, 2009
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Oct 31, 2009
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Thanks RobotKittyZilla,

I am away from my computer right now but will check the logs when I get home. I know right now everything in the BIOS is set to auto for the memory but I can definitely try hard entering the data to see what happens. The test that I have been running are just the standard tests but I can see if I can find out exactly what it is when I get home. Blend did sound familiar. I really appreciate the help. I just want to get this thing up and running so I can start to have some fun with it! :)

Thanks again to you and everyone else that may be able to help!

Best!
 

1-D_FTW

Member
Jun 14, 2006
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I managed to bump the voltage down to 1.48 and remain stable under another Prime 95 Blend test for several hours. HWMonitor reports 1.50v at full load with temps maxing out at 52C (40C on the cores). Idle temps are 18-26C on the cores and 30-38C on the CPU. I also put a mild overclock on my 5870 (900/1250) and gamed for about 6-7 hours without any issues. While gaming, CPU temps never exceeded 48C and core temps never exceeded 39C with my case fans running at medium speed.

I'm going to keep monitoring but it looks like I'm in the clear.



What test are you running and what does your results log show? Are you getting BSOD, is the application crashing, or is your PC restarting? A Prime 95 Blend test can find issues with memory that memtest is not able to detect. Since you already reseated the RAM, verify your timing and voltage settings are correct, based on the manufacturer's recommendation. I would also recommend testing with one stick of RAM at a time to see if you can eliminate or pinpoint the problem.
Wow that's really low ambient temps. Once the weather warms where you are and your house temps aren't so cold, stability might change. Just something to be aware of.
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
Jan 21, 2008
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Corsair, they are 1.5V
Thanks RobotKittyZilla,

I am away from my computer right now but will check the logs when I get home. I know right now everything in the BIOS is set to auto for the memory but I can definitely try hard entering the data to see what happens. The test that I have been running are just the standard tests but I can see if I can find out exactly what it is when I get home. Blend did sound familiar. I really appreciate the help. I just want to get this thing up and running so I can start to have some fun with it! :)

Thanks again to you and everyone else that may be able to help!

Best!
RKZ said what I posted. You should get errors on one of the sticks or one of the memory slots from the sounds of it.
 

Amory

Member
Jul 10, 2008
10,238
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775
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Amory said:
- Intel Core i5-2500K Processor
- ASUS P8Z68-V LX LGA 1155 Z68 SATA 6 Gb/s and USB 3.0 ATX Intel Z68 ATX DDR3 2200 Intel Motherboard
- Corsair Vengeance 8 GB ( 2 x 4 GB ) DDR3 1600 MHz (PC3 12800) 240-Pin DDR3 Memory Kit for Intel Core i3, i5, i7
- EVGA GeForce GTX560 Ti 448 Cores FTW 1280 MB GDDR5, Dual-DualLink DVI, HDMI, DisplayPort, SLI Graphics Cards 012-P3-2066-KR
- PRO550W Core Edition Full Wired 80+ Bronze Power Supply
- Asus 24xDVD±RW Serial ATA Internal OEM Drive DRW-24B1ST
- Samsung F4 2TB hard drive
- Copy of Windows 7.
Anyone see any blatant wrong choices here? I'm about ready to send the order
 

1-D_FTW

Member
Jun 14, 2006
17,069
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Anyone see any blatant wrong choices here? I'm about ready to send the order
I'd wait for the GPU battle to settle. Unless you're really set on Nvidia, even the 7850 is a better choice IMO. But I'd still wait till Nvidia launches Kepler just to be safe. You can always use the integrated graphics for a couple weeks if you have nothing else.
 

Amory

Member
Jul 10, 2008
10,238
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775
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Thanks, I definitely don't know enough about any of this stuff to be leaning one way or another. I just looked at the information in the OP and tried to choose the most bang for my buck, especially regarding the GPU. If it's better to wait a while, I can wait.
 

Gunharp

Member
Jun 19, 2010
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Woodinville, WA
I am on a C2D system...and I am finally building a new rig :)

Got one question so far.

Is there any reason I should get the MSI Z68A-GD65 over the cheaper 55 version? The only difference I can tell is that the 55 has two less SATA 6Gb/s ports and there is no pipe between the two heat sinks near the CPU socket.
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
Jan 21, 2008
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Southern California
Thanks, I definitely don't know enough about any of this stuff to be leaning one way or another. I just looked at the information in the OP and tried to choose the most bang for my buck, especially regarding the GPU. If it's better to wait a while, I can wait.
I'd just buy everything but the GPU. Run video off the CPU.
I am on a C2D system...and I am finally building a new rig :)

Got one question so far.

Is there any reason I should get the MSI Z68A-GD65 over the cheaper 55 version? The only difference I can tell is that the 55 has two less SATA 6Gb/s ports and there is no pipe between the two heat sinks near the CPU socket.
I think the 65 has better cooling, maybe 2-4 more power regs?
55 will do fine.
 

·feist·

Member
Nov 26, 2006
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Delays, and shifting release dates, depending on who at Intel you ask, so keep that in mind.


DH Exclusive: Intel's 22nm Ivy Bridge processors being launched April 29
http://www.donanimhaber.com/islemci/haberleri/DH-Ozel-intelin-22nm-ivy-Bridge-islemcileri-29-Nisanda-lanse-ediliyor.htm




Any chance this will be the same price as the current IV?
Between the added features, and associated cost of the third-party controllers, I wouldn't expect that. Although, the IV Gene has regularly gone for ~$20-30 above its base price, since launch, so that skews things a bit.


mATX? Get me my XL-ATX with quad gtx680 then I'll be throwing my arm out.
You know who else lacks appreciation for high powered SFF builds?

Terrorists.

Why do you hate freedom, scogoth?


Keep this up, and I'll add you to ignore.

That mini PCI-E slot is stupid awesome.
Seriously. They're a life saver on mITX boards, and, AFAIK, this is the first mATX to feature the common mITX-like implementation, instead of the more limited type you see on a few ATX boards.
 

Double D

Member
Jun 28, 2006
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I'm about to put my motherboard into the case and the manual says to insert the standoffs to line up with the screwholes. Well, there are 'raised' screwholes and regular, flat ones. Am I supposed to inster the standoffs into just the flat ones, or all of them? I'm thinking just the flat ones to make everything level, but I don't know.

Here's a picture of the case. You can see where I already inserted one of the standoffs on the flat screwhole about midway down on the left side.:
 

·feist·

Member
Nov 26, 2006
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I'm about to put my motherboard into the case and the manual says to insert the standoffs to line up with the screwholes. Well, there are 'raised' screwholes and regular, flat ones. Am I supposed to inster the standoffs into just the flat ones, or all of them? I'm thinking just the flat ones to make everything level, but I don't know.

Here's a picture of the case. You can see where I already inserted one of the standoffs on the flat screwhole about midway down on the left side.:
http://i.imgur.com/OPK1f.jpg
Just the flat ones.
 

scogoth

Member
Oct 17, 2010
5,401
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·feist·;35754429 said:
You know who else lacks appreciation for high powered SFF builds?

Terrorists.

Why do you hate freedom, scogoth?
I'm Canadian so yes. I was a SFF build kinda guy in the era of XLATX and now I'm for XLATX in the era of SFF.

Anywho, so mkenyon - best mouse? best mouse.

 

1-D_FTW

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Jun 14, 2006
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So I caved and ditched my homemade setup and bought a HAF 912. But damn, thing is noisy. Currently have 6 120mm case fans hooked up :)lol, I know overkill).

I'm looking to replace the 2 front intake fans with 1 200mm fan, the top 2 with another 200 mm fan, and the side panel fan with a 140mm fan. What RPM/CFM do you guys go with. I'm looking for something that promotes good airflow, but the quieter the better (obviously).

Would doing that make games look/run pretty bad?
Yes. 3D gaming will suck with that set-up. But if you're going mid-range card, it really does make sense to try and have a little more patience. Just a little bit more.
 
Nov 14, 2010
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I'm Canadian so yes. I was a SFF build kinda guy in the era of XLATX and now I'm for XLATX in the era of SFF.

Anywho, so mkenyon - best mouse? best mouse.

And what mouse is this? I'm close to buying a G500, but I kinda want one with a blue light to match the rest of my desktop, so this one intrigues me.

EDIT: Google has revealed to me that it's a Sentinel somethingorother. Any chance you've used a G500 and can compare them?
 

mkenyon

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Feb 9, 2010
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I'm Canadian so yes. I was a SFF build kinda guy in the era of XLATX and now I'm for XLATX in the era of SFF.

Anywho, so mkenyon - best mouse? best mouse.

awesome pic.jpeg
While that is stupid awesome, I know the Sentinel has issues with mouse lift. :p

Also, good lawd, turn down that DPI!
And what mouse is this? I'm close to buying a G500, but I kinda want one with a blue light to match the rest of my desktop, so this one intrigues me.

EDIT: Google has revealed to me that it's a Sentinel somethingorother. Any chance you've used a G500 and can compare them?
What kind of grip do you have, and are you more of a arm or wrist guy? Comp games or just general use and singleplayer type stuff?
 

scogoth

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Oct 17, 2010
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And what mouse is this? I'm close to buying a G500, but I kinda want one with a blue light to match the rest of my desktop, so this one intrigues me.

EDIT: Google has revealed to me that it's a Sentinel somethingorother. Any chance you've used a G500 and can compare them?
I have at a friends house but not enough to make a judgment on it. I didn't like how it fit my hand but that is completely personal. G500 is highly recommended by lots of people but for me I like to have high customizablity. My biggest complaint is middle mouse on the scroll wheel sometimes scrolls when clicked.


While that is stupid awesome, I know the Sentinel has issues with mouse lift. :p

Also, good lawd, turn down that DPI!

What kind of grip do you have, and are you more of a arm or wrist guy? Comp games or just general use and singleplayer type stuff?
Naw 5600dpi is just right, I find high dpi with low in OS sensitivity works better for me then mid dpi with normal sensitivity. I haven't had any of the issues that I've seen online (drift, dying, stuttering) and the mouse lift isn't perfect, still registers till about 1/4 in off the surface hence high dpi so no lifting. It doesn't work on hard reflective mouse pads but most laser mice don't.
 

1-D_FTW

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Jun 14, 2006
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I'll say this about mice: I've used a lot of them. And the Logitech G700 is hands down my favorite of all-time. Battery life isn't great, but it uses Eneloops. So if you have a charger and 4 spare batteries around, you can go a decent distance between having to recharge things.
 

scogoth

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Oct 17, 2010
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I'll say this about mice: I've used a lot of them. And the Logitech G700 is hands down my favorite of all-time. Battery life isn't great, but it uses Eneloops. So if you have a charger and 4 spare batteries around, you can go a decent distance between having to recharge things.
Ew wireless
 

AwesomeSauce

MagsMoonshine
Mar 22, 2010
3,130
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As much as i enjoyed my time with the Naos 5000 mouse, I'm looking for something that suits my grip more. I've been thinking of the R.A.T 7, seemed comfortable with the short time i had with it.

I know some people like the shape of the Naos 5000, but for some odd reason that and the Deathadder i used to have gets my hand feeling annoyed after certain amount of hours.
 

1-D_FTW

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Jun 14, 2006
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I used to say the same thing. While I use my Mamba mostly in wired mode because I'm too lazy to remember to charge it, it works really damned well in wireless mode. No detectable lag. The lack of cable drag is really nice.
This is the combo that I love so much. Finally no lag. And no cable drag. Once you start getting used to that, there's no going back to chords. Why I like the whole single eneloop battery idea of the G700. It makes popping new batteries in real easy and I never have to chord up. As a bonus, Logitech mouse drivers no longer suck.
 

scogoth

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Oct 17, 2010
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This is the combo that I love so much. Finally no lag. And no cable drag. Once you start getting used to that, there's no going back to chords. Why I like the whole single eneloop battery idea of the G700. It makes popping new batteries in real easy and I never have to chord up. As a bonus, Logitech mouse drivers no longer suck.
Lies! I don't believe it!
 
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