OC 2500K, nope.
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"I Need a New PC!" 2015 Part 1. Read the OP and RISE ABOVE FORGED PRECISION SCIENCE
- Thread starter Hazaro
- Start date
- Status
OC 2500K, nope.
Would a none oc 2500k bottleneck it a lot? I use to have it overclocked but after about 2 years it became unstable so I decided to put it back to normal clock speeds.
Okay, thanks for everything. =)
king grimlock
Member
So I looked in the OP for cable sleeving stuff but didn't see anything so what's the best way of acquiring some colored cables? DIY? Buying them? And as someone new to building a pc is there a site or resource for finding out what and how many cables I need?
Azzurri
Member
opticalmace
Member
Sounds more like you had a marginally stable OC that finally caught up with you. You're definitely leaving some (free) performance on the table if you run a 2500K at stock.
king grimlock
Member
Oh I don't have one yet but it looks like it will be evga
PeakPointMatrix
Member
Thanks a lot for the thorough response and breakdown. I like the idea of a future-proofed case down the line for the second graphics card. Which Silverstone case should I be looking at? Is the one you linked able to house the second GTX 980?How slim, exactly? For a high end living room PC I'm thinking of the Silverstone Grandia line or similar because for 4K, you'll eventually need to run twin graphics cards for a good framerate in games. There are slimmer HTPC cases like these Silverstone models but they will only take a single graphics card at best, and will be more cramped to build in.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($214.89 @ OutletPC)
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-C14 CPU Cooler ($73.69 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z97X-SLI ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($101.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: Kingston Fury Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1866 Memory ($115.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Crucial MX100 256GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($104.99 @ Adorama)
Storage: Toshiba Product SeriesT01ACA 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($71.99 @ NCIX US)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 980 4GB Twin Frozr Video Card ($549.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Case: Silverstone GD09B HTPC Case ($73.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Power Supply: EVGA 750W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($49.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $1357.50
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-02-24 23:57 EST-0500
The GTX 980 seems to work best here because for 4K you could drop in a second GTX 980 whenever you need it, and they have semi-fanless quiet modes which work well for keeping noise down. The 750 watt power supply ensures you have enough wattage to support the a second GTX 980 in the future.
There's a bit under $150 left in the budget for a keyboard, mouse and whatever else you may want. Blu-ray drive for this HTPC, maybe? Wireless gamepad? Wifi connectivity?
In terms of extra budget, I'd like to put that towards a blu-ray driver/burner to have a complete media machine.
Azzurri
Member
Cool, then that should work.
A very good improvement all around. That said, are you aware of the GTX 970 VRAM issue? That and the recent AMD price drops make the R9 290/290X a better buy for price-to-performance considerations, especially when you can get the XFX R9 290 for $248 after rebate or the Powercolor R9 290X PCS+ for $274 after rebate. The R9 290X performs roughly on par if not slightly behind the GTX 970.
When I was looking for cases for your build, the Silverstone GD07/GD08 and the GD09/GD10 stood out to me, they definitely have the room for twin graphics cards. They're all very similar in structure, but somewhat different in front design. They're not too large, are they? You did say you wanted slim. The Grandia (GD) line fits better with other large stereo equipment like audio receivers rather than game consoles.
With a blu-ray optical drive, I think you're limited to the stock Intel CPU cooler or the Silverstone AR02. I spent an hour searching around and I just couldn't find a better CPU cooler to fit with an optical drive.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($219.75 @ OutletPC)
CPU Cooler: Silverstone AR02 56.0 CFM CPU Cooler ($27.99 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z97X-SLI ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($101.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: Kingston Fury Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1866 Memory ($115.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Crucial MX100 256GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($104.99 @ Adorama)
Storage: Toshiba Product Series
T01ACA 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($71.99 @ NCIX US) Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 980 4GB Twin Frozr Video Card ($549.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Case: Silverstone GD09B HTPC Case ($73.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Power Supply: EVGA 750W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($49.99 @ Newegg)
Optical Drive: Asus BW-12B1ST/BLK/G/AS Blu-Ray/DVD/CD Writer ($39.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $1356.65
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-02-25 19:59 EST-0500
Keep in mind that blu-ray drive doesn't come with software for playing back blu-ray movie discs. You can either refer to these instructions for VLC or purchase blu-ray playback software.
I need some help with my graphics card, please?
I have MSI 7970 and I don't game too much but been playing a game for few hours, and card as usual at load is around 80 degrees Celsius (with 1c:1% profile) and I started getting artifacts. First rarely but then for few minutes then they stopped again. They are in different colors and shapes (triangle, square etc), my warranty lasts until 17th March this year and I'm worried. I don't know how extensively I can test it and I fear sending it(slow/bad tech support at that company) and them telling me it's fine or keeping it for months.
Any tips on what to do?
P.S. Latest drivers.
I have MSI 7970 and I don't game too much but been playing a game for few hours, and card as usual at load is around 80 degrees Celsius (with 1c:1% profile) and I started getting artifacts. First rarely but then for few minutes then they stopped again. They are in different colors and shapes (triangle, square etc), my warranty lasts until 17th March this year and I'm worried. I don't know how extensively I can test it and I fear sending it(slow/bad tech support at that company) and them telling me it's fine or keeping it for months.
Any tips on what to do?
P.S. Latest drivers.
So you actually feel like letting warranty run out and leaving it to die? Why not just send it in any way? There's not much you can do to fix a card.
Sup folks. Finally going to start buying PC parts soon, hoping to have everything I need by the end of March, beginning of April. Wanted to get some opinions on my build. Will be my first one ever so please go easy on me
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($199.99 @ Micro Center)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($29.98 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z97X-SLI ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($101.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: Kingston Fury White Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1866 Memory ($69.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Crucial MX100 128GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($64.95 @ SuperBiiz)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($51.89 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: PowerColor Radeon R9 290X 4GB PCS+ Video Card ($273.98 @ Newegg)
Case: BitFenix Shadow ATX Mid Tower Case (Purchased For $0.00)
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA NEX 750W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($49.99 @ NCIX US)
Total: $842.75
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-02-25 20:54 EST-0500
Mostly looking for a very capable gaming machine that will run almost anything I throw at it at 1080p/60fps. It's also VERY important that I have something powerful enough to run Dolphin and PCSX2 at 1080p full speed. Is this build good enough (or more than good enough even) to do all that? Is there anything I should change? Not really wanting to exceed $850 like my current plans are. Thabks for any input.
As a side note; if there's a build that anyone can recommend that will meet the 1080p/60fps want and can run Dolphin/PCSX2 really damn well, and on the whole is much cheaper, I would love to know about it. Wouldn't mind something cheaper for now that meets my needs.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($199.99 @ Micro Center)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($29.98 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z97X-SLI ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($101.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: Kingston Fury White Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1866 Memory ($69.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Crucial MX100 128GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($64.95 @ SuperBiiz)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($51.89 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: PowerColor Radeon R9 290X 4GB PCS+ Video Card ($273.98 @ Newegg)
Case: BitFenix Shadow ATX Mid Tower Case (Purchased For $0.00)
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA NEX 750W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($49.99 @ NCIX US)
Total: $842.75
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-02-25 20:54 EST-0500
Mostly looking for a very capable gaming machine that will run almost anything I throw at it at 1080p/60fps. It's also VERY important that I have something powerful enough to run Dolphin and PCSX2 at 1080p full speed. Is this build good enough (or more than good enough even) to do all that? Is there anything I should change? Not really wanting to exceed $850 like my current plans are. Thabks for any input.
As a side note; if there's a build that anyone can recommend that will meet the 1080p/60fps want and can run Dolphin/PCSX2 really damn well, and on the whole is much cheaper, I would love to know about it. Wouldn't mind something cheaper for now that meets my needs.
king grimlock
Member
Ok after things fell through last year I am here again with a (probably horribly put together) build for you guys to dissect and reassemble.
Anyways on to the what I want this machine to do
-1080p 60fps max-maxish settings
-Overkill doesn't bother me
-Simplest setup
- Going to be starting up college for CS in the last half of the year (dabbled a little bit in programming but not sure what kind of PC I need)
-needs to be strong enough to push me through at least 1.5 years
-Can't cost more than $2500 USD
-Black and green or red and black and white
-I REALLY like the air 540
Here is what I got so far
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i7-4790K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($279.99 @ Micro Center)
CPU Cooler: Corsair H105 73.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($109.99 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: EVGA Z97 Classified EATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($283.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($124.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Crucial MX100 512GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($189.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($51.89 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 980 4GB Classified ACX 2.0 Video Card ($699.98 @ NCIX US)
Case: Corsair Air 540 ATX Mid Tower Case ($119.99 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA 1000G2 1000W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($147.04 @ Newegg)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 8.1 (OEM) (64-bit) ($87.75 @ OutletPC)
Monitor: Asus VS239H-P 23.0" Monitor ($147.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Keyboard: Razer BlackWidow Chroma Wired Gaming Keyboard ($159.99 @ Amazon)
Mouse: Corsair Vengeance M95 Wired Laser Mouse ($64.89 @ OutletPC)
Total: $2468.46
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-02-25 21:11 EST-0500
Any help is appreciated.
Edit: I have that power supply because of plans to sli btw
Anyways on to the what I want this machine to do
-1080p 60fps max-maxish settings
-Overkill doesn't bother me
-Simplest setup
- Going to be starting up college for CS in the last half of the year (dabbled a little bit in programming but not sure what kind of PC I need)
-needs to be strong enough to push me through at least 1.5 years
-Can't cost more than $2500 USD
-Black and green or red and black and white
-I REALLY like the air 540
Here is what I got so far
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i7-4790K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($279.99 @ Micro Center)
CPU Cooler: Corsair H105 73.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($109.99 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: EVGA Z97 Classified EATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($283.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($124.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Crucial MX100 512GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($189.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($51.89 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 980 4GB Classified ACX 2.0 Video Card ($699.98 @ NCIX US)
Case: Corsair Air 540 ATX Mid Tower Case ($119.99 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA 1000G2 1000W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($147.04 @ Newegg)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 8.1 (OEM) (64-bit) ($87.75 @ OutletPC)
Monitor: Asus VS239H-P 23.0" Monitor ($147.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Keyboard: Razer BlackWidow Chroma Wired Gaming Keyboard ($159.99 @ Amazon)
Mouse: Corsair Vengeance M95 Wired Laser Mouse ($64.89 @ OutletPC)
Total: $2468.46
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-02-25 21:11 EST-0500
Any help is appreciated.
Edit: I have that power supply because of plans to sli btw
Furmark is a decent stress test. Do the artifacts appear in all games? Or at certain temperatures? Try older drivers if you want, but artifacts regardless of game is usually a sign of dying hardware.
Sup folks. Finally going to start buying PC parts soon, hoping to have everything I need by the end of March, beginning of April. Wanted to get some opinions on my build. Will be my first one ever so please go easy on me
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($199.99 @ Micro Center)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($29.98 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z97X-SLI ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($101.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: Kingston Fury White Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1866 Memory ($69.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Crucial MX100 128GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($64.95 @ SuperBiiz)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($51.89 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: PowerColor Radeon R9 290X 4GB PCS+ Video Card ($273.98 @ Newegg)
Case: BitFenix Shadow ATX Mid Tower Case (Purchased For $0.00)
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA NEX 750W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($49.99 @ NCIX US)
Total: $842.75
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-02-25 20:54 EST-0500
Mostly looking for a very capable gaming machine that will run almost anything I throw at it at 1080p/60fps. It's also VERY important that I have something powerful enough to run Dolphin and PCSX2 at 1080p full speed. Is this build good enough (or more than good enough even) to do all that? Is there anything I should change? Not really wanting to exceed $850 like my current plans are. Thabks for any input.
As a side note; if there's a build that anyone can recommend that will meet the 1080p/60fps want and can run Dolphin/PCSX2 really damn well, and on the whole is much cheaper, I would love to know about it. Wouldn't mind something cheaper for now that meets my needs.
Looks like you've done your research, I can only make a few changes. There's cheaper same speed RAM and the newer B2 version of that power supply is the same price after rebate. The R9 290X only requires a 600 watt power supply, but there actually aren't really any other power supplies I can recommend on the cheap - there's the EVGA 600B 600 watt power supply for $45 after rebate, but you're only saving $5 to drop down to a lower quality power supply with less wattage, which I can't really recommend.
If you really want to save money, then you could drop the SSD and pick one up later - it only improves loading time, not actual game framerate. There's not much else you can do to cut costs. The CPU and the GPU generally determine performance, and they're already at the lowest possible price, there are no equivalent alternatives for cheaper, unless you want to drop down to a non-overclocking processor and motherboard, which nets you around $50 in savings, but means your PC won't last as long before it needs to be replaced.
If you're going to pick up the processor from Microcenter, then you could grab that processor as part of a combo with a motherboard to save some money. Microcenter has the i5 4690K and the ASRock Z97 Extreme4 bundled together for $280 meaning the motherboard costs just $80, when it usually costs closer to $130. However, Newegg reviews of the Extreme4 aren't very good - over 1/3 of reviews are negative. You could take the risk - returning it yourself at a local Microcenter would be faster than having to ship a motherboard back to Newegg, but otherwise I recommend you get the bundle with the Gigabyte Z97X-Gaming 5 motherboard, with the CPU it comes out to be $300 which means you'll get upgraded from the budget Gigabyte Z97X-SLI to the midrange Gaming-5 model at no cost.
With my recommendations, it comes down to a bit under $800.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($199.99 @ Micro Center)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($29.98 @ OutletPC)
Memory: Patriot Viper 3 Low Profile Blue 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1866 Memory ($61.99 @ NCIX US)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($51.89 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: PowerColor Radeon R9 290X 4GB PCS+ Video Card ($293.98 @ Newegg)
Case: BitFenix Shadow ATX Mid Tower Case (Purchased For $0.00)
Power Supply: EVGA 750W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($49.99 @ Newegg)
Other: MSI Z97-GAMING 5 ATX LGA1150 Motherboard (Microcenter bundle)) ($99.99)
Total: $787.81
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-02-25 22:04 EST-0500
I need the silence throughout, for recording and listening. I would want a very quiet uninterfered signal and to not hear the computer in the background. I don't think the latter would be a problem but I'm not sure what it is exactly that makes a reliable, quiet, and solid FireWire connection. I've almost been considering getting a mac because I know it would work perfectly but if you could help me understand my optionsbib terms of sound cards and what exactly a quiet system is comprised of it would ve greatly appreciated!
There's a lot that can be done to trim fat. I'll list reasons why I made the changes after the parts list. Now, the build I'm recommending is actually $100 more than the parts list you had, but with some parts changed here and there, I was able to fit two GTX 980s for a little bit more than $2500. I went with red, black, and white. The following parts list is assuming that gaming is the most important use.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($219.75 @ OutletPC)
CPU Cooler: Phanteks PH-TC14PE 78.1 CFM CPU Cooler ($64.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: MSI Z97-GAMING 5 ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($139.88 @ OutletPC)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws X Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-2133 Memory ($129.99 @ NCIX US)
Storage: Crucial MX100 512GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($189.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Toshiba 3TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($83.30 @ Newegg)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 980 4GB Twin Frozr Video Card (2-Way SLI) ($549.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 980 4GB Twin Frozr Video Card (2-Way SLI) ($549.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Case: Corsair Air 540 ATX Mid Tower Case ($119.99 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: EVGA 850W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($79.99 @ Newegg)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 8.1 (OEM) (64-bit) ($87.75 @ OutletPC)
Monitor: Asus VS247H-P 23.6" Monitor ($138.99 @ NCIX US)
Keyboard: Razer BlackWidow Chroma Wired Gaming Keyboard ($159.99 @ Amazon)
Mouse: Corsair Vengeance M95 Wired Laser Mouse ($64.89 @ OutletPC)
Total: $2579.48
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-02-25 22:19 EST-0500
1. I changed the processor to the i5 4690K because for games, there's little to no difference in game framerate performance compared to the i7 4790K. Both are quad core overclockable processors, the only real difference is that the i7 includes hyperthreading. Games won't take advantage of the i7's hyperthreading when the processor is already a quad core, so no real loss there. The only reason I'd recommend the i7 is if you were doing computation heavy tasks, video editing, 3D modelling, or other things that can actually make use of hyperthreading for added speed, even then the difference in speed isn't that great.
2. Went with the Phanteks air cooler instead of the water cooler because it's the same level performance for less money. It also comes in your choice of white or black. In this Bit-Tech review the Phanteks air cooler matches the H105 (PWM) on the 95 watt test. While the H105 at full speed beat the Phanteks by two degrees, it is very loud and noisy when at full speed, while the Phanteks was much quieter.
3a. Changed it to much cheaper and more cost efficient red-themed MSI gaming model. There's no difference in performance, the EVGA classified model just has a lot of unnecessary extras. It's also stupid-levels of expensive for Z97. And for some reason it lacks a M.2 port which is more useful than the mSATA port it includes.
3b. Changed the memory to faster 2133MHz red-themed RAM for just $5 more.
3c. Changed the single EVGA Classified GTX 980 to a pair of MSI Gaming 4G GTX 980 cards. The EVGA Classified card is very high end, but you'd be better served by two slightly lesser but still high end GTX 980s.
4. You only need 1000 watts for triple SLI, so I changed the 1000 watt power supply to EVGA's latest 850 watt model. Jonny Guru rated it extremely highly in another one of his meticulous reviews.
5. Asus usually has 24" (23.6") monitors for around $140. I'm aware that your choice was IPS and mine is TN, but at this low a price, I think TN is better for faster response rate.
Overall, for 1080p this is overkill. You could do 1440p well, or even 4K reasonably. The processor will be good for 3~5 years, longer if overclocked. I hope you don't mind it being more expensive, but if you were spending $2500 anyway, it stands to reason you could spend a little more.
Thanks a ton for the help, RGM79! Would have totally missed that mobo bundle deal. Under $800 (even if I just barely made it) makes me super happy. Gonna buy the GPU tomorrow and we'll see where it goes from there, hopefully within the next month or two my rig will be all ready to go.
Mad Season
Banned
You're wasting the potential of the 2500k by not overlclocking it. It's a beast for over clocking
I too have a 2500k and just bought a 980. I have my 2500k oberclocked to 4.5 and there is no bottleneck. Games run beautifully
I'll admit, sound engineering and recording isn't something I'm experienced in. Firewire isn't really a common thing for PCs, so perhaps you need a quality Firewire and sound card. That said, I don't know any specifics - this might be best left to an audiophile or audio-engineering forum unless someone else here knows anything more.
ElectricKaibutsu
Member
Can I ask a question not directly related to PC building?
My PC's PSU just bit the dust. In a way it was good timing since I'm going to be moving from Japan to the US next week. So I've gutted my PC for the parts I want to keep (two HDDs and the GPU). I'm going to ship the GPU but I want to keep the HDDs with me. I also have an external.
My question is, has anyone ever brought multiple HDDs on an airplane? I'm planning on bringing three in my carry-on plus my laptop but I'm wondering if I'll get hassled.
Sorry if I shouldn't have asked this question here. I just figured the people who frequently post here would be the most knowledgeable people to ask. I'll delete it if it's not OK.
My PC's PSU just bit the dust. In a way it was good timing since I'm going to be moving from Japan to the US next week. So I've gutted my PC for the parts I want to keep (two HDDs and the GPU). I'm going to ship the GPU but I want to keep the HDDs with me. I also have an external.
My question is, has anyone ever brought multiple HDDs on an airplane? I'm planning on bringing three in my carry-on plus my laptop but I'm wondering if I'll get hassled.
Sorry if I shouldn't have asked this question here. I just figured the people who frequently post here would be the most knowledgeable people to ask. I'll delete it if it's not OK.
I don't see a problem with carrying them on the plane. HDDs aren't restricted or banned items.
Pollux
Member
So, should I put the PC into sleep mode or turn it off at night?
Also, and I probably should have realized this, but the Mac external disc drive doesn't work with the PC, and at least if it does I can't find out where it is and it won't start a disc when I try to insert one.
Secondly, the PC won't recognize an external hard drive from WD that I have used for years - mostly on my old mac. I needed to get the drivers for the Linksys wifi adapter downloaded but I can't without a disc drive or being able to get them off my external hard drive where i got them from my mac...
any advice would be appreciated.
Also, and I probably should have realized this, but the Mac external disc drive doesn't work with the PC, and at least if it does I can't find out where it is and it won't start a disc when I try to insert one.
Secondly, the PC won't recognize an external hard drive from WD that I have used for years - mostly on my old mac. I needed to get the drivers for the Linksys wifi adapter downloaded but I can't without a disc drive or being able to get them off my external hard drive where i got them from my mac...
any advice would be appreciated.
ElectricKaibutsu
Member
Cool, thanks.
Sleep mode is for when you're going to be temporarily away for a short time and you don't want to quit whatever you're doing. Hibernate is for the same thing except better for longer periods of time because it shuts off the PC and just restores everything when you turn it back on. You have the OS on your SSD so load times should be really quick - shouldn't take too long to turn back on, but it's your choice.
Others got their Apple Superdrive to work with their PC, they and you probably just needed the Windows drivers from Apple Bootcamp.
Don't know why your external drive won't work. You're sure you have the right cables? Do you have it plugged into USB 3.0 or 2.0? Try a different port? External drives have always been plug-and-play for me, never needed special drivers.
Sorry if this is a nooby question but I'm really curious. If I don't over clock anything on my PC should I be fine with the overall temps on my PC? I didn't add any extra fans and my case is fairly well ventilated and it's not in a hot room congested in a corner or on the floor by carpet. I have a GTX 770/ i5 4440 if that helps determine anything.
My friends and I were talking about how they had their friend's PC overheat and stuff, which eventually lead to breaking. So I'm kind of paranoid now about it cause I didn't add any extra fans on my system. If someone with great knowledge and expertise could fill me in I would greatly appreciate it! Thanks!
Also long live GAF. <3
My friends and I were talking about how they had their friend's PC overheat and stuff, which eventually lead to breaking. So I'm kind of paranoid now about it cause I didn't add any extra fans on my system. If someone with great knowledge and expertise could fill me in I would greatly appreciate it! Thanks!
Also long live GAF. <3
Should be fine. There are programs you can download to run in the background to check how hot temperatures get when you play games, like GPU-Z, MSI Afterburner, etc.
vanguardian1
poor, homeless and tasteless
First I'd make sure the old video card is cleaned enough (along the fan and heatsinks), and if so then I'd try downclocking the video card (both gpu and memory) then log if/when artifacts are created. Methinks 80c is a bit too warm for some video cards to work reliably for long periods of time, even though I'm sure some will say otherwise.
I think I will go with what you recommended here. Are there any readjustments you think I should make? I noticed the total went up $40 dollars the last time I checked.
Will I be able to install Windows 8 os without a optical drive?
Hey PC Gaf, im looking to purchase this prebulit PC from an Australian retailer, I think I like what I see? Spec are as follows:
CPU: Intel® Core i5 4590 Processor
Motherboard: MSI B85-G43 Gaming Motherboard
Video Card: ASUS Radeon R9 290 DirectCU II 4GB
Memory: Kingston Hyper X Fury HX318C10FWK2/8 8GB (2x4GB) White
Storage:Kingston HyperX Fury 120GB SSD
Storage: Western Digital WD Blue 1TB WD10EZEX
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA G1 Gold 650W Power Supply
Case: NZXT S340 Mid Tower Case White
http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=30782
Retails at $1399 AU, and about $1350 when bought individually. I don't reeeeeaaaally want to build the PC myself.
What are thoughts on specs? My only concern was on the processor. The aim of the build is to play the Witcher 3 at a high setting/last 4-5 years.
CPU: Intel® Core i5 4590 Processor
Motherboard: MSI B85-G43 Gaming Motherboard
Video Card: ASUS Radeon R9 290 DirectCU II 4GB
Memory: Kingston Hyper X Fury HX318C10FWK2/8 8GB (2x4GB) White
Storage:Kingston HyperX Fury 120GB SSD
Storage: Western Digital WD Blue 1TB WD10EZEX
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA G1 Gold 650W Power Supply
Case: NZXT S340 Mid Tower Case White
http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=30782
Retails at $1399 AU, and about $1350 when bought individually. I don't reeeeeaaaally want to build the PC myself.
What are thoughts on specs? My only concern was on the processor. The aim of the build is to play the Witcher 3 at a high setting/last 4-5 years.
Infinite Justice
Member
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($219.75 @ OutletPC)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($29.98 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: MSI Z97 PC MATE ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($89.98 @ OutletPC)
Memory: G.Skill Ares Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-2133 Memory ($54.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Crucial MX100 128GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($64.95 @ SuperBiiz)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($51.89 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: Sapphire Radeon R9 280X 3GB Video Card ($212.98 @ Newegg)
Case: Cooler Master N400 ATX Mid Tower Case ($39.99 @ Micro Center)
Power Supply: EVGA 750W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($49.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $814.50
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-02-26 03:14 EST-0500
Unfortunately you missed the sale on the graphics card and RAM. For $815 I can recommend a cheaper motherboard and RAM and keep that same graphics card (it's the cheapest R9 280X there is). However, if you're willing to drop the SSD, it'd be possible to keep the same motherboard and move up to a stronger graphics card for just under $800.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($219.75 @ OutletPC)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($29.98 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z97X-SLI ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($101.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill Ares Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-2133 Memory ($54.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($51.89 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: XFX Radeon R9 290 4GB Double Dissipation Video Card ($247.98 @ Newegg)
Case: Cooler Master N400 ATX Mid Tower Case ($39.99 @ Micro Center)
Power Supply: EVGA 750W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($49.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $796.55
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-02-26 03:18 EST-0500
Yes, you can install Windows without a DVD drive. Microsoft provides an official automated tool for it, it's actually faster and it'll save you the cost of the DVD drive. All you need to have is the license key that you type into the Microsoft tool.
Give me some time, I'll check techbuy.com.au, centrecom.com.au, cplonline.com.au, and mwave.com.au for parts prices. They offer PC assembly services.
Riposte
Member
Maybe not appropriate for this thread, but thoughts on this gaming laptop?
ASUS ROG G751 Series G751JY-DH71
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NWE9RPA/?tag=neogaf0e-20
ASUS ROG G751 Series G751JY-DH71
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NWE9RPA/?tag=neogaf0e-20
Chinbo37
Member
2-3 main points jump out I guess. I dont know everything about laptop pricing but
1 - If you are paying that much wouldn't you rather get a SSD as the hard drive?
2 - It comes with 24 gigs of ram! But the processor is not so fast. I dont know too much about mobile processors, is there anything faster?
On a separate note I have owned an ASUS laptop before and that was an amazing system. It was used daily for nearly 6 years and it actually still works fine just the case cracked a bit. I will always love ASUS products since then.
Riposte
Member
I was originally going to buy it from newegg, which has options and shit which I don't really understand. Apparently it can come with a SSD?
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16834232199
EDIT: I would prefer a desktop, but a lot of people are guilt-ing me into getting a laptop for school, since I currently don't have one. One real big turn off is no g-sync, something I really want.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16834232199
EDIT: I would prefer a desktop, but a lot of people are guilt-ing me into getting a laptop for school, since I currently don't have one. One real big turn off is no g-sync, something I really want.
Thank you! If anyone else has thoughts on the build, I would be eternally grateful.
Chinbo37
Member
Think about this - This "laptop" has a 17 inch screen and weighs 8 pounds. The MAX battery life is 3.5 hours. And you are paying 2,300. There isnt much portable about this.
If I were you I would get a 14 inch or smaller laptop which runs office, Chrome, you can watch movies and play music as you study etc. One with a much longer battery life. I think you could get something for 500 to 600.
That would leave you 1,700 to build a gaming rig which you can easily do with help from people on this forum.
I just ordered my first ever "legit" pc. I'm saying goodbye to consoles and all their bullshit. Sunk $1000 of my tax return into a nice machine with some friends advice on what to get.
Gtx 970, Intel i5, nice msi motherboard, 8gb of ram, fractal case, and other goodies.
Pretty excited to get it and have a whole new world to explore. Beyond gaming I'm also interested in video editing and a few other things what consoles just can't do.
Gtx 970, Intel i5, nice msi motherboard, 8gb of ram, fractal case, and other goodies.
Pretty excited to get it and have a whole new world to explore. Beyond gaming I'm also interested in video editing and a few other things what consoles just can't do.
How about this for $1406? A lot less fancy looking, mostly same specs except for cheaper case but stronger graphics card. Not sure about shipping or pick up as I forgot to ask you what city you were in.
ScepticMatt
Member
I'd rather get a desktop+smaller cheaper laptop then.
You don't want to carry a 17" gaming laptop around.
Pollux
Member
When I plugged the external drive in there was a little green lookin loading box to the right of the start button and then it disappeared. I have no clue where it is on this machine and can't find it on the desktop or in the my computer section.
king grimlock
Member
Thanks I figured a lot of things were not necessary especially the motherboard because I got annoyed at the lack of different colors on them and when I found one I thought would match I just threw it in. I'll also look into a 1440p monitor.
batman2million
Member
I'm planning on building my next PC in mid 2016. Saving up for the parts right now so it can get just about the best stuff out at the time.
My concern is what to do with my current rig. It's has some decent specs:
i7 920 oc'd to 3.4
120 ssd + 1tb hdd
GTX 780 stock
12 gb ram
x58 evga mobo (issue with one of the ram slots)
I wanted to make it into a dedicated media server hooked up to the TV or an AMP (which i plan on getting sometime in the future as well).
Ideally, I wanted to get a new, smaller case (the one i have right now is fairly ugly) and hook up some simple water cooling so it stays quiet and on for a long time and place it right next to the tv. and use it fro steam streaming when i need to.
or any other suggestions for it gaf?
My concern is what to do with my current rig. It's has some decent specs:
i7 920 oc'd to 3.4
120 ssd + 1tb hdd
GTX 780 stock
12 gb ram
x58 evga mobo (issue with one of the ram slots)
I wanted to make it into a dedicated media server hooked up to the TV or an AMP (which i plan on getting sometime in the future as well).
Ideally, I wanted to get a new, smaller case (the one i have right now is fairly ugly) and hook up some simple water cooling so it stays quiet and on for a long time and place it right next to the tv. and use it fro steam streaming when i need to.
or any other suggestions for it gaf?
Frankfurter
Member
Hooking it up to the TV etc. seems like a waste for the machine. You could get sth. like the Intel NUC for steam streaming, media server etc. and save quite a bit of energy. Selling the parts that still get you decent money (especially the GPU which should still get you some money in mid 2016)) and buying a NUC imo makes more sense overall, compared to sinking more money into that machine for case and quiet cooling.
batman2million
Member
That's also something I was thinking about. there's really no need for me to have two rigs running in the house.
Ok all my parts are here. Well except the graphics card and wifi card that will arrive shortly. I'm gonna start this tonight after work.
So what tools should I have handy? Screwdriver, tweezers...anything else?
Following the videos in the op, so I should set aside like 2 hours for this?
So what tools should I have handy? Screwdriver, tweezers...anything else?
Following the videos in the op, so I should set aside like 2 hours for this?
This is nuts. Instead of buying that, you can buy a much much much better desktop and buy a cheap laptop for school and you'd still save money. Like, a lot.
I'm planning to buy this ram:
http://m.newegg.com/Product/index?itemnumber=20-231-659
It's the cheapest 16 gb ram I can find. Any thoughts?
http://m.newegg.com/Product/index?itemnumber=20-231-659
It's the cheapest 16 gb ram I can find. Any thoughts?
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