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"I Need a New PC!" 2017 The Ryzing of Kaby Lake and NVMwhee!

Ashhong

Member
Did all of that. Still got some pretty inconsistent performance. On the roll back to previous build, all of that is gone.

--

I've converted all of my PC peripherals over to Logitech. I've been using a K65 RGB from Corsair (w/ Cherry Reds) for a long time, but after getting the G900 and seeing the quality of it and the software, I wanted to eventually get a Logitech KB. Been wanting to go back to a full KB anyway. Copped the G810 Orion Spectrum KB today. It's a $160 KB, but I got Best Buy to price Amazon for $115.

Logitech G533 Wireless Headset
Logitech G900 Mouse
Logitech G810 Orion Spectrum

33975662661_e26eef5451_z.jpg


I've come full circle. My first mechanical keyboard was a Logitech 710+ w/ Cherry Brown switches. The 810 uses Logitech's own Romer-G switches. They definitely feel different than Cherry's. If I was to assign an equivalent or a close comparison on the Cherry side, I'd say they are very close to Browns. Considering I really like the feedback from Reds, this will be an adjustment.

I remember hearing in a video review how the RGB effect in the 810 is superior to other products because of the way the lighting is done under the keys. Can say in person it definitely looks more "solid" than Corsair's offering. The colors are punchier. Whereas on the K65 the entire key is lit and you can see the lighting under it, on the 810 only the specific letter or number is lit. Looks way cleaner to me. Corsair's implementation looks messy in comparison. When you cut the RGBs off the 810 looks like a standard KB, there's nothing particularly flashy or "gamer" about it.

Mentioned it before but Logitech's software is miles ahead of CUE. The G900 and the 810 are synced together and it worked with no problem. Managing all 3 peripherals is easy and the UI is very intuitive. Also haven't ran into any issues where games would flat out not work because the Logitech software was installed (see- Mass Effect Andromeda).

I've gamed and done some general typing on the KB, and I like it. Feels good when doing either.

Really impressed with Logitech of late. Their stuff in comparison to Corsair, just feels more solid.

Quick fyi the 810 is like 80$ on Newegg or sometime in. Check slickdeals
 
what is the likelihood of finding myself a 1070 on sale for under 400? I am considering using my extra dosh to get me one and then maybe sell off the 970 after I get the 1070. Which brings up another good question. What is the second hand market like for the 970? I never resold any of my video cards :(

I sold my two 970s last month for $260 through craigslist.You should be able to get ~$150 for a single card on there, reddit hardwareswap, or even here on gaf, but I wouldn't be surprised if the Radeon 570 and 580 are going to affect that price quickly.

Interestingly enough, I saw quite a few of unopened 1070s in craigslist as well. One guy even wanted to trade my two 970s + $80 for one 1070.
 
Hey GAF,

What's the cheapest SFF + silent/near silent PC I can get that will power two monitors at 1080p, let me run YouTube/media/do basic MS Office locally, and give me a good remote desktop experience?

I don’t want anything that feels sluggish and laggy, but my 9 year old i7 920 system seems way overkill for basically just remoting into my work machines while playing music or reading documents locally.

Intel NUC perhaps?

Cheers
 
It's here!


Now let's wait for the other parts to arrive...

By the way, here's the planned rig:

i7 7700k
MSI z270 gaming plus
gskill ripjaws V 2x8gb 3200mhz
samsung 960 m.2 ssd 256gb

Together with older parts (noctua nh-d15, titan xp, corsair ax860) from my actual build and a new case (NZXT Source 340 elite).

By the way: what's the consensus on the go-to thermal compound these days? I've always used Arctic Silver, but maybe there's something better around?
 

nkarafo

Member
Hi PC GAF. I need your advice.

I have a DDR3 PC with 4 RAM slots. I use 2 of them for 16GB of dual channel DDR, 8GB on each slot.

But now i want to use the other 2 slots and upgrade to 32GB, without losing my dual channel capability. That means i need the exact same RAM sticks like the ones i have right? Problem is, i can't find them anywhere, at least not in any shops in my country. So, is there any other solution besides throwing away the RAM sticks i already have?

My sticks are "Kingston HyperX Beast 16 GB Kit (2x8 GB) 1600MHz DDR3"

My mobo is a Gigabyte Z97-D3H
 

hitgirl

Member
Smokey, I'm still just looking at your GTX1070 you sent me, what feels like ages ago. Hopefully get around to building the PC this weekend.
 

Pooya

Member
I remember hearing in a video review how the RGB effect in the 810 is superior to other products because of the way the lighting is done under the keys. Can say in person it definitely looks more "solid" than Corsair's offering. The colors are punchier. Whereas on the K65 the entire key is lit and you can see the lighting under it, on the 810 only the specific letter or number is lit. Looks way cleaner to me. Corsair's implementation looks messy in comparison. When you cut the RGBs off the 810 looks like a standard KB, there's nothing particularly flashy or "gamer" about it.
.

Lighting is better on 810 because of no light leak. On Cherry boards, light leaks out all over the board. With these switches they've placed the LED right in the middle, something you can't do with Cherry and that helps to make the lighting look uniform without it leaking out from all over the board. 810 looks very beautiful in a dark room.

Yeah, I think their build quality is way better than Corsair or Razer. Cooler Master is still better but they're also typically more expensive.
 

Dave_6

Member
I may swap out my K65 RGB for the G810. I miss having a number pad and I really dislike the CUE software. Been using the G502 for a while now and I love it.
 

MEATER

Member
I think I'm going with Ryzen rather than Intel. What sold me is the chance to simply buy a new CPU in 2-3 years to upgrade while keeping everything else.

Thoughts on this build? 90% gaming at 1440p/100-120 fps @High-Ultra. 10% video and photoediting and some Unreal Engine 4 stuff. Need a lot of drive space. Budget is max. 3000 EUR.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 1600X 3.6GHz 6-Core Processor (€281.94 @ Mindfactory)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler (€31.79 @ Amazon Deutschland)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-AX370-GAMING 5 ATX AM4 Motherboard (€218.57 @ Mindfactory)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory (€146.95 @ Amazon Deutschland)
Storage: Samsung 960 Evo 1TB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive (€464.05 @ Mindfactory)
Storage: Crucial MX300 1.1TB 2.5" Solid State Drive (€277.88 @ Amazon Deutschland)
Storage: Western Digital Black 6TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (€299.00 @ Amazon Deutschland)
Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1080 Ti 11GB Gaming OC 11G Video Card (€806.94 @ Mindfactory)
Case: Corsair Carbide Clear 600C ATX Full Tower Case (€137.99 @ Amazon Deutschland)
Power Supply: Corsair 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply (€137.84 @ Mindfactory)
Optical Drive: Pioneer BDR-209DBK Blu-Ray/DVD/CD Writer (€72.29 @ Amazon Deutschland)
Total: €2875.24
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-04-19 16:44 CEST+0200

Is the RAM ok? The compatibility list for the mobo only shows more expensive 32-64 GB kits.

Any other suggestions for a case? Would have gone with a S340 elite for the front VR HDMI/USB support if the 3.5 drive cages would not look like putting another drive would require to remove the PSU first.
 

Smokey

Member
I may swap out my K65 RGB for the G810. I miss having a number pad and I really dislike the CUE software. Been using the G502 for a while now and I love it.

Do it.

I also had the G502 before moving to the G900. Love it and that's what pushed me to just replace all of my Corsair stuff with Logitech.
 

manfestival

Member
I sold my two 970s last month for $260 through craigslist.You should be able to get ~$150 for a single card on there, reddit hardwareswap, or even here on gaf, but I wouldn't be surprised if the Radeon 570 and 580 are going to affect that price quickly.

Interestingly enough, I saw quite a few of unopened 1070s in craigslist as well. One guy even wanted to trade my two 970s + $80 for one 1070.

oh man I would have done that in a heartbeat
 
I think I'm going with Ryzen rather than Intel. What sold me is the chance to simply buy a new CPU in 2-3 years to upgrade while keeping everything else.

Thoughts on this build? 90% gaming at 1440p/100-120 fps @High-Ultra. 10% video and photoediting and some Unreal Engine 4 stuff. Need a lot of drive space. Budget is max. 3000 EUR.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 1600X 3.6GHz 6-Core Processor (€281.94 @ Mindfactory)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler (€31.79 @ Amazon Deutschland)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-AX370-GAMING 5 ATX AM4 Motherboard (€218.57 @ Mindfactory)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory (€146.95 @ Amazon Deutschland)
Storage: Samsung 960 Evo 1TB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive (€464.05 @ Mindfactory)
Storage: Crucial MX300 1.1TB 2.5" Solid State Drive (€277.88 @ Amazon Deutschland)
Storage: Western Digital Black 6TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (€299.00 @ Amazon Deutschland)
Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1080 Ti 11GB Gaming OC 11G Video Card (€806.94 @ Mindfactory)
Case: Corsair Carbide Clear 600C ATX Full Tower Case (€137.99 @ Amazon Deutschland)
Power Supply: Corsair 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply (€137.84 @ Mindfactory)
Optical Drive: Pioneer BDR-209DBK Blu-Ray/DVD/CD Writer (€72.29 @ Amazon Deutschland)
Total: €2875.24
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-04-19 16:44 CEST+0200

Is the RAM ok? The compatibility list for the mobo only shows more expensive 32-64 GB kits.

Any other suggestions for a case? Would have gone with a S340 elite for the front VR HDMI/USB support if the 3.5 drive cages would not look like putting another drive would require to remove the PSU first.

Is there a reason you're going with the X series motherboards? If it were me, I'd probably go with the B series, put the savings between that and the cooler towards a 1700 with stock cooler and OC it.
 

Rains

Member
This fella is a dildo. Find a better source of information. At least a site that measures frametimes.
lol yep thats why i was asking on here

What does gaf recommend for me needs for some good sources i generally watch youtube is jayz2cents any good or are their are others with more details
 

MEATER

Member
Is there a reason you're going with the X series motherboards? If it were me, I'd probably go with the B series, put the savings between that and the cooler towards a 1700 with stock cooler and OC it.

I picked this board because it has two lan ports on the back. I have two different routers and this will let me switch between both networks via windows instead of having to plug the one cable out and the other cable in.

It also seems like the X boards have more SATA connectors and are easier to overclock?
 

Iorv3th

Member
Hi PC GAF. I need your advice.

I have a DDR3 PC with 4 RAM slots. I use 2 of them for 16GB of dual channel DDR, 8GB on each slot.

But now i want to use the other 2 slots and upgrade to 32GB, without losing my dual channel capability. That means i need the exact same RAM sticks like the ones i have right? Problem is, i can't find them anywhere, at least not in any shops in my country. So, is there any other solution besides throwing away the RAM sticks i already have?

My sticks are "Kingston HyperX Beast 16 GB Kit (2x8 GB) 1600MHz DDR3"

My mobo is a Gigabyte Z97-D3H

You should be able to just get 2 matching sticks and run in the other slots, however if your current ram is 1600mhz and the ram you get is 1800mhz they are going to all run at the lower clock rate. So just make sure you get the same speed.

If you can go into bios or if you have a program on your computer that tells you the ramspeed and timing/latency you can just use those numbers to match what you have.
 

theultimo

Member
Hey GAF,

What's the cheapest SFF + silent/near silent PC I can get that will power two monitors at 1080p, let me run YouTube/media/do basic MS Office locally, and give me a good remote desktop experience?

I don’t want anything that feels sluggish and laggy, but my 9 year old i7 920 system seems way overkill for basically just remoting into my work machines while playing music or reading documents locally.

Intel NUC perhaps?

Cheers
How small you need? Look for an intel compute stick + usb video adapter for the tiniest.
 
I picked this board because it has two lan ports on the back. I have two different routers and this will let me switch between both networks via windows instead of having to plug the one cable out and the other cable in.

It also seems like the X boards have more SATA connectors and are easier to overclock?

It seems like the biggest discrepancy right now is the support for 3200+ ram, with some boards being superior to others in that regard. I haven't read anything about X series being more desirable for overclocking, but then again I haven't looked that closely either. I'd have to imagine any improvements in overclocking would be negligible and aimed mostly at people trying to squeeze every last bit of performance out of their hardware.

The X series supports more SATA ports on paper, but manufacturers have the option to swap out SATAe for more SATA connectors. They can also add more features if they choose, so it's mostly going to come down to the particular brand and model's specs.
 

nkarafo

Member
You should be able to just get 2 matching sticks and run in the other slots, however if your current ram is 1600mhz and the ram you get is 1800mhz they are going to all run at the lower clock rate. So just make sure you get the same speed.

If you can go into bios or if you have a program on your computer that tells you the ramspeed and timing/latency you can just use those numbers to match what you have.
So any brand or size would fit as well then? Could i use a 4+4 combo for a total of 24GB without breaking the dual DDR feature?

Thanks for the answer. It seems like i just need to match the speed and timings then.


I think I have landed on this Gtx 1060 6gb version

https://www.amazon.com/MSI-GAMING-GTX-1060-6G/dp/B01L9VB642?th=1&psc=1

Before I pull the trigger, in y'alls opinion is this a decent 1080p card and a decently spec'ed one?

That price seems pretty good to me.
That price is too good to be true!

The 1060 is like a 980 with more RAM. It's a steal for that price. I got mine for 300 euros (Europe ftw).
 

MEATER

Member
It seems like the biggest discrepancy right now is the support for 3200+ ram, with some boards being superior to others in that regard.

The X series supports more SATA ports on paper, but manufacturers have the option to swap out SATAe for more SATA connectors. They can also add more features if they choose, so it's mostly going to come down to the particular brand and model's specs.

Any board in particular you can recommend? I haven't looked much into other boards after reading a couple of recommendations for the gigabyte x370 after seeing it has to lan ports.
 
So any brand or size would fit as well then? Could i use a 4+4 combo for a total of 24GB without breaking the dual DDR feature?

Thanks for the answer. It seems like i just need to match the speed and timings then.

Without checking your MB specs to confirm, yes, this is usually how it is. You have two dual-channel modules, and you need to match the size of the DIMMs in each module, and timings for all of them (so 2x 8GB and 2x 4GB is fine).
 
Any board in particular you can recommend? I haven't looked much into other boards after reading a couple of recommendations for the gigabyte x370 after seeing it has to lan ports.

I've read good things about the MSI's and Biostar boards of all things, but it sounds like you have specific needs with the dual lan ports so your choices are probably limited.
 

orhnsnmz

Member
I'm in the market for a new monitor with a budget of around $600.

What would everyone go with:
- Curved monitor in FHD (I read that curved monitors are really awesome for gaming)
- Curved 21:9 monitor
- 4K monitor

.. or should I go a little higher and go even 4K Curved or 4K 21:9? Please help! :D
 
I'm in the market for a new monitor with a budget of around $600.

What would everyone go with:
- Curved monitor in FHD (I read that curved monitors are really awesome for gaming)
- Curved 21:9 monitor
- 4K monitor

.. or should I go a little higher and go even 4K Curved or 4K 21:9? Please help! :D

Depends what your video card can do with the type of games you play. For gaming, there is no point in getting a 4k monitor if you can't play at an acceptable framerate.
 

masterkajo

Member
The 650 is enough, but if the 750 is only 5 more, then might as well get the 750.

I'd spend a little more and get the EVGA Supernova 750 G2. The Corsair RM series doesn't seem to be particularly good.

OK thanks. The evga 650w g2 is about 10 more expensive than the rm650x. If I opt for 750w the evga g2 cost 30 more.

So evga supernova 650w g2 should be enough for r5 1600 and 1080ti both oc. What about if I happend to get a second 1080ti for sli later down the line?
 

laxu

Member
OK thanks. The evga 650w g2 is about 10 more expensive than the rm650x. If I opt for 750w the evga g2 cost 30 more.

So evga supernova 650w g2 should be enough for r5 1600 and 1080ti both oc. What about if I happend to get a second 1080ti for sli later down the line?

Then you'd need something like 800+ watts but IMO SLI isn't a good option nowadays anyway.
 
HC (Dimitri) looks at the mATX version of Evolv; https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-jWblNZ3Zsw


I want to get the ATX version when I get the funds for a new build, but that will take a while. It would be cool if we'd get a new version of the ATX version. Not sure how I feel about them making anything but SSD non visible on the right side of the case. I know from people who've been building in Enthoo Evolv Tempered Glass, that the cable management has to be on point, and you basically need sleeved cables to make it look good- But that's sort of the point.

If you're going to spend 10 on custom PSU sleeve cable, I'd like them to be visible, but I can see why others wouldn't. Still cool of them to expose the SSDs.
 
HC (Dimitri) looks at the mATX version of Evolv; https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-jWblNZ3Zsw


I want to get the ATX version when I get the funds for a new build, but that will take a while. It would be cool if we'd get a new version of the ATX version. Not sure how I feel about them making anything but SSD non visible on the right side of the case. I know from people who've been building in Enthoo Evolv Tempered Glass, that the cable management has to be on point, and you basically need sleeved cables to make it look good- But that's sort of the point.

If you're going to spend 10 on custom PSU sleeve cable, I'd like them to be visible, but I can see why others wouldn't. Still cool of them to expose the SSDs.

I've been waiting for this, but unfortunately it looks like they removed the 5.25 bay on the back of the case in this version! I don't see why, considering now it just has the empty space there when it was such a neat, flexible option in the original, non-tempered glass version. Sigh. I want one of the Evolv lineup, but I need a dedicated optical drive. So frustrating.
 
How small you need? Look for an intel compute stick + usb video adapter for the tiniest.
Doesn't have to be tiny - just don't want a big bulky box (as I'll still have a tower around for gaming).

Compute stick has enough power for lag free 2x1080p screens and media playback?

Edit: Thinking about it, I don't want something with dongles everywhere (usb hub specifically), just a small quiet pc.
 

MEATER

Member
I've read good things about the MSI's and Biostar boards of all things, but it sounds like you have specific needs with the dual lan ports so your choices are probably limited.

Thanks. Forgot about Biostar. Still looks like the Gaming 5 will be the cheapest option for dual lan, but I'll check the other boards.
 
Upgrading from a 2600k@4.5. 1440p gaming. I think I'm going to jump on the Ryzen wagon. Any critique of this build:
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: AMD RYZEN 7 1700 3.0GHz 8-Core Processor ($317.89 @ OutletPC)
CPU Cooler: CRYORIG C7 40.5 CFM CPU Cooler ($29.88 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Asus PRIME X370-PRO ATX AM4 Motherboard ($158.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($114.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: MyDigitalSSD BPX 512GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive ($209.99 @ Amazon)
Case: Cooler Master MasterCase Pro 5 ATX Mid Tower Case ($99.99 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA G3 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($88.89 @ OutletPC)
Total: $1020.62
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-04-19 17:22 EDT-0400

For GPU I'm using my existing 1080. Also using my existing 1TB 850 pro.
 
Upgrading from a 2600k@4.5. 1440p gaming. I think I'm going to jump on the Ryzen wagon. Any critique of this build:
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: AMD RYZEN 7 1700 3.0GHz 8-Core Processor ($317.89 @ OutletPC)
CPU Cooler: CRYORIG C7 40.5 CFM CPU Cooler ($29.88 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Asus PRIME X370-PRO ATX AM4 Motherboard ($158.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($114.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: MyDigitalSSD BPX 512GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive ($209.99 @ Amazon)
Case: Cooler Master MasterCase Pro 5 ATX Mid Tower Case ($99.99 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA G3 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($88.89 @ OutletPC)
Total: $1020.62
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-04-19 17:22 EDT-0400

For GPU I'm using my existing 1080. Also using my existing 1TB 850 pro.
You could probably drop down to an R5 1600X and upgrade the CPU cooler to an H7 (hopefully, ones with the AM4 bracket in the box are available). If you plan to overclock, you'd need a better cooler for sure.
 
You could probably drop down to an R5 1600X and upgrade the CPU cooler to an H7 (hopefully, ones with the AM4 bracket in the box are available). If you plan to overclock, you'd need a better cooler for sure.
Thanks. That should be an H7, you're right. Not sure why I put C7 in there. I do plan to OC.
 

ViciousDS

Banned
Why did I grab a hyper 212 cooler for an itx case.


1. Hyper 212 is outdated in terms of tech honestly, there are much better options

2. It's sure as fuck not a low profile cooler lol

3. It's fucking massive dear lord I should have known better


Thanks for stopping me GAF!

Free return and a low profile cooler is on the way.....



Still though


That moment when you get all the parts for the PC and for some odd reason the case won't be their till a week later


Gaaaaahhhhhhhhhh
 
"It gets the job done" is the most you can say about it. The paste included with any aftermarket cooler will perform equally or better.

MX4 is decent stuff, just afew degrees off of Gelid extreme. It's definitely better than almost any paste that's included, the only exception being noctua's stuff.
 
Has anyone bought a rebuilt PC from Newegg recently?

I don''f feel like building a new PC and I'm really an unsure with specs anymore. I've been looking at two units:

https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16883102271
(Currently out of Stock)

Or

https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16883102272


I want to get something that wont need upgrading for 3 years. Any suggestions?
What about this? http://www.microcenter.com/product/474127/G221_Desktop_Computer

There's one left in the store in PA.
 

JCH!

Member
I have a little question for you guys.

I just finished a build for my girlfriend (7700k + my old 980). I thought we would be able to transfer her Windows 10 licence from her old computer to the new one but apparently the copy of Windows 10 she had on her old PC is not eligible for transfer.

What is the best (meaning cheapest) way of getting a legit copy of W10 Pro?

There's no way my only option is paying 280€ for it, right? How reliable are those people selling keys on reddit (I assume they are some sort of grey market à la G2A)?
 
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