Thanks for the input. I'm looking at the features now; leaning towards the fuji X20 or the RX100 as I'm seeing them about the same price.
Edit: now debating the X30 vs the RX100
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NeoGAF Camera Equipment Thread | MK II
- Thread starter MRORANGE
- Start date
Thanks for the input. I'm looking at the features now; leaning towards the fuji X20 or the RX100 as I'm seeing them about the same price.
Edit: now debating the X30 vs the RX100
TerryLee81
Member
Go to store and try them out, very different cameras. The X30 is quite big compared to the RX100, but I like its handling better.
In low light the RX 100 will be better with the 1" sensor.
andythinkpad
Member
There are a couple more cameras with 1" sensor. Canon G3x G5x G7x. One of them complete directly with RX100 with the same sensor, I don't remember which one.
I'd be tempted to rent one for the farnborough air show. Enjoyed it before with the canon 100-400 and this should have a similar reach. Can't justify buying though,
PEN-F hands on: http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/history-repeating-olympus-pen-f-first-impressions-review
$1200 is priced rather high for a micro 4/3, especially with no phase detect AF.
$1200 is priced rather high for a micro 4/3, especially with no phase detect AF.
Was very interested until I saw the price. Guess I'll keep waiting for the a6100 and see how that goes.
TerryLee81
Member
Yeah it's way too high. It's not even weather sealed. All it has compared to the 5 II is the 20mp sensor. Worse viewfinder, no weather sealing. And I don't like the "Art" control wheel.
I hope the E-M1 II will bring more new stuff, I think I'll keep my E-M5 II until then.
Astral/H3X
Member
$1200 for m4/3rds? Fuck that, that's sandwiched right between a7 and a7II.
Speaking of which, I'm considering getting something in the range of a 24-70mm for my a7 when I get it (my bonus is coming soon). I know there's the kit lens, but I haven't heard particularly flattering things about it. Given that I'm more than satisfied with all manual lenses, are there any good vintage options? Or any cheapish but good modern options? Wanna know what to be looking for, and I know that zooms used to suck so not expecting miracles.
andythinkpad
Member
How come Olympus doesn't make something to compete with GM1/GM5. Isn't miniaturization the strength of m43. The GM1 is almost as small as the RX100.
I'm only looking at the older 400ish dollar RX100 since that's my upper limit.
Would that be better for close shots?
I was also tempted by wifi on the X30;
because they dont know what they're doing.
Case in point, i was looking at the stats for the new Oly 300mm f4.
It weights 1.3kg, the brand new NIkon 300f4 that, mind you, covers a full frame sensor, weights 755g. It's over a pound lighter than the Oly.
Probably because their highest priority isn't miniaturization, similar to Fuji with lenses. You throw any normal and larger lens on GM1 it's not very usable, plus it has no IBIS.
I actually love to use my 14-140 II lens on the GM1. The trick is to hold the lens barrel to support that weight and it becomes real comfortable to use. Yeah, it does look funny having a big lens on that small body but it works pretty good. But of course, I mainly use the kit 12-32 and 25mm prime to keep it nice and compact.
I guess to me, usability, isn't really just being able to hold the camera and shoot. Yes I'm fully aware of how to use large lenses on a small body. I have this kind of setup as well with a Q7 (primarily for its crop factor):
In the case of GM1, the benefit of being smaller than usual really serves little purpose when using regular lenses on it. You are ditching extra dials, the size of buttons and what not just for the sake of being slightly smaller. So it depends on your priorities but I'd rather have the later.
andythinkpad
Member
I don't want larger lens. I want body/lens package that's as easy to carry as the RX100.
I will give Olympus credit though for making those 2 lens cap lens. The 9mm fisheye is the stable on my NEX5n and now the GM1.
RX100, S120 don't have grip either. I am saying, Olympus should make camera that target high end P&S users.
Sounds like you already have a solution with GM1 then why does Oly needs to get into that game?
Maybe they don't think that segment is profitable since it's getting crowded and they need to license the sensors, unlike Panny or Sony. People will just bitch if Oly comes out with something in that segment at higher price than the competitors. They had XZ2 when 1/1.7" size was considered high end. They must have reasons not to continue down that line.
Maybe they don't think that segment is profitable since it's getting crowded and they need to license the sensors, unlike Panny or Sony. People will just bitch if Oly comes out with something in that segment at higher price than the competitors. They had XZ2 when 1/1.7" size was considered high end. They must have reasons not to continue down that line.
JadedWriter
Member
Anybody here ever fuck up the autofocus points on their camera and then lock the things in without realizing it? I was running around with my center dot at the bottom left of the autofocus area for like a week, just fixed it a half hour ago, I feel quite stupid.
reggieandTFE
Member
Yeah, the E-M5 Mark II has better video features (higher bit rate and a low contrast mode for easier grading) and presumably better IBIS since Olympus isn't calling it the best in the world like they did the Mark II.
The Pen-F pricing is insanely out whack considering the E-M10 is 95% of the same camera and costs half as much even with the slick tiny kit lens.
jongkookie
Member
Got this in the mail today!
I posted some test shots in the photo thread so I'm putting my impressions here.
Unsurprisingly, it's another fantastic "vintage" lens from Nikon. The lens feel heavy, like almost double the weight of my Series E 50mm, the aperture ring has a satisfying click, and the focus rings feels like it could spin a full 360 haha.
Photo impressions on the other hand... this lens seems a little harder to use. Only because I can't cheat my way with LiveView lol. I can't use LV to get something in focus with this lens compared to my other glass so I'm actually forced to use the viewfinder and the focus points to get it in focus lol.
But other than that, I'm really glad I got this. Now I can actually do proper street photography... if I ever get the chance to do it haha.
Yep lol.
I thought my camera was broken since the viewfinder would only focus on that one point. I thought it was my MF lenses that screwed it up so I hooked up the kit lens to see and fix it... but nope. A few weeks later, I accidentally hit the d-pad and saw the dot move. I almost lost my shit hahaha.
I posted some test shots in the photo thread so I'm putting my impressions here.
Unsurprisingly, it's another fantastic "vintage" lens from Nikon. The lens feel heavy, like almost double the weight of my Series E 50mm, the aperture ring has a satisfying click, and the focus rings feels like it could spin a full 360 haha.
Photo impressions on the other hand... this lens seems a little harder to use. Only because I can't cheat my way with LiveView lol. I can't use LV to get something in focus with this lens compared to my other glass so I'm actually forced to use the viewfinder and the focus points to get it in focus lol.
But other than that, I'm really glad I got this. Now I can actually do proper street photography... if I ever get the chance to do it haha.
Yep lol.
I thought my camera was broken since the viewfinder would only focus on that one point. I thought it was my MF lenses that screwed it up so I hooked up the kit lens to see and fix it... but nope. A few weeks later, I accidentally hit the d-pad and saw the dot move. I almost lost my shit hahaha.
JadedWriter
Member
I was fuming while using a box of peanut brittle as an experiment, then I just hit youtube and found my answer. It would go back to normal in auto, but in Manual and everything not computer controlled just went back to the weird thing. Lesson learned.
Oh yes. Spent half of Father's Day with a bottom left focus point and having no idea why my shots looked so weak. I've also wasted shots because my shooting mode got switched up in transport or something and I didn't realize it right away.
I always reset mine after moving it since it's just one button press. It's became my habit to just reset overrides after I take the shot.
Worst I have ever done is try and swap the batteries on my Nikon while it was still in live view. Don't do this. It really doesn't like this.
It was in the middle of an interview, put the new battery in and the camera just says "ERROR" when I try and put the new one in. I was out of state, no backup cam, I don't even think there was a camera store within an hour.
I was sweating bullets powering it on/off, removing the battery... Trying to think of wtf. I finally took the lens off and noticed he mirror was still locked up, press the shutter button! Camera fixed. Whew.
It was in the middle of an interview, put the new battery in and the camera just says "ERROR" when I try and put the new one in. I was out of state, no backup cam, I don't even think there was a camera store within an hour.
I was sweating bullets powering it on/off, removing the battery... Trying to think of wtf. I finally took the lens off and noticed he mirror was still locked up, press the shutter button! Camera fixed. Whew.
JadedWriter
Member
That doesn't sound like fun, I'd probably unleash one of those Shounen anime screams on the spot.
It's a good camera imo and with new firmware coming out next month it will bring it almost to the t1 levels in af which seems to be most people's issue, sensor is the same in both so its great
So I do product photography at work. They want me to suggest three different cameras. Low end probably $200 and up to around $1000.
For mid-range I'm thinking something like the Canon T5 or T5i? Can you get these body only? Body only with something like the 50mm 1.8 seems like it would work for me. I've currently been using my 5D2 with a 50mm lens, though with the Rebel I would have to deal with the crop sensor.
For mid-range I'm thinking something like the Canon T5 or T5i? Can you get these body only? Body only with something like the 50mm 1.8 seems like it would work for me. I've currently been using my 5D2 with a 50mm lens, though with the Rebel I would have to deal with the crop sensor.
JadedWriter
Member
Wouldn't a 70 or 60d be a better crop sensor camera than the Rebel series?
StopMakingSense
Member
Oh yeah, my wife did that while on site with the D800, had a pretty frantic cell phone calls while I googled around for the solution.
andythinkpad
Member
You can shoot product photography with any camera. Make sure you have studio lighting from 2-3 sides. How do you shoot product photography with a 200 budget, you are pawning off your stuff on ebay?
JadedWriter
Member
I'm enjoying reading about every bodies noob errors. Just nice to know it happens to everyone.
Crop on 50mm is fine for products, I would actually use 60mm macro on crop to also be able to get closeups. In general you want longer focal lengths for less perspective angles when doing products.
Lights are more important, umbrellas are pretty cheap, chinese strobes can work but require manual futzing about.
If you can't buy lights at least get a 5 in 1 reflector/screen to be able to mod some natural light. http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002ZIMEMW/?tag=neogaf0e-20
Skel1ingt0n
I can't *believe* these lazy developers keep making file sizes so damn large. Btw, how does technology work?
Some more pics from my X-T1 and 23 1.4. Really love this kit - so much easier to bring around than a full-size SLR. Also, it's way less distracting to those around you, it really flies under the radar.
andythinkpad
Member
Lovely bokeh. Is it sharp in infinite if you shoot it wide open?
Dr.Horrible
Member
Currently waiting for this as well. Gives me plenty of time to putz around with my new camera before then I guess.
TerryLee81
Member
Tempted to buy a used D800 as second camera, lots of people seem to upgrade to the D810 and sell their old one.
But I don't know if I would use it a lot, maybe it would be better to get a new lens for my OMD
But I don't know if I would use it a lot, maybe it would be better to get a new lens for my OMD
That was near the top of my list for things to look for. I'm headed to my local used book store's big sale, so I'm hoping to find an older copy maybe. I've also heard good things about "Read This if You Want to Take Great Photographs".
Anything else? Obviously I don't want to overload on reading so much so that I don't get out and shoot.
Astral/H3X
Member
Well, I'm getting back $1900 from my taxes, so I went ahead and finally ordered my 85mm and a Skytracker, I hope to be using them when they get here to get some better star photos. Can't wait. 
jongkookie
Member
Can anybody help me understand this:
Using my 28 and 50mm primes to shoot my car, I can't get blur/bokeh/shallow DOF in the background. Looking at the focus distance on the ring, in order for me to get my entire car in the frame and get good focus, I have to set both at 15ft and 20ft respectively which also turns out to be their max focus distance. So, I'm basically at infinity focus and I won't be able to get any blur/bokeh/whatever.
That is correct right?
If that is right, then why can I get blur/bokeh/shallow DOF using my 85mm prime at about 16ft on the focus distance ring? Granted the max focus distance on the 85 is at 33ft so it can go pretty far.
Could this be the crop factor taking into effect on my 28 and 50mm primes?
Accounting for the crop they'd be at 42 and 75mm focal length. Since I'm having to position myself 1.5x farther out than I'm supposed to, could that explain why I'm hitting max focus distance on those lenses?
I've actually been trying to figure this out the last couple of days ever since I got my 28mm lol. I was hoping I can get delicious bokeh on the 28mm without having to stand soooooooo far away but it doesn't work lol.
Using my 28 and 50mm primes to shoot my car, I can't get blur/bokeh/shallow DOF in the background. Looking at the focus distance on the ring, in order for me to get my entire car in the frame and get good focus, I have to set both at 15ft and 20ft respectively which also turns out to be their max focus distance. So, I'm basically at infinity focus and I won't be able to get any blur/bokeh/whatever.
That is correct right?
If that is right, then why can I get blur/bokeh/shallow DOF using my 85mm prime at about 16ft on the focus distance ring? Granted the max focus distance on the 85 is at 33ft so it can go pretty far.
Could this be the crop factor taking into effect on my 28 and 50mm primes?
Accounting for the crop they'd be at 42 and 75mm focal length. Since I'm having to position myself 1.5x farther out than I'm supposed to, could that explain why I'm hitting max focus distance on those lenses?
I've actually been trying to figure this out the last couple of days ever since I got my 28mm lol. I was hoping I can get delicious bokeh on the 28mm without having to stand soooooooo far away but it doesn't work lol.
Rentahamster
Rodent Whores
When I'm shooting stuff, I don't really think about it in terms of numbers like that. This is what I do:
Get the framing I want.
Take a picture.
Look at the screen.
Do I want more bokeh?
If yes, widen the aperture. If no, close the aperture.
Repeat.
Astral/H3X
Member
You'll get more bokeh by doing the following:
Using a longer focal length
Getting closer
Wider aperture
Larger sensor
As for which of those will work better for you, depends.
Getting Bokeh on a whole car though, might be a tad difficult.
jongkookie
Member
Aperture might be the issue as I had both the 28 and 50mm at f/8 and the 85mm at f/6 since it can't do f/8.
I'll try shooting at the widest aperture possible and see if that'll actually help.
Neither do I.
Hell, I sometimes prefer to shoot in LiveView so I can clearly see what I'm doing.
I just listed the numbers because I used them as reference to get better data in trying to understand this lol.
That's the thing, it's possible on my 85mm but I can't do it on the 28 and 50mm.
If I get closer, then obviously the car doesn't fit the frame on both the 28 and 50. But with the 85, I can keep the car in the entire frame and still get bokeh.
I'm probably gonna experiment on this some more as soon as my batteries are charged lol.
I'll try shooting at the widest aperture possible and see if that'll actually help.
Neither do I.
Hell, I sometimes prefer to shoot in LiveView so I can clearly see what I'm doing.
I just listed the numbers because I used them as reference to get better data in trying to understand this lol.
That's the thing, it's possible on my 85mm but I can't do it on the 28 and 50mm.
If I get closer, then obviously the car doesn't fit the frame on both the 28 and 50. But with the 85, I can keep the car in the entire frame and still get bokeh.
I'm probably gonna experiment on this some more as soon as my batteries are charged lol.
Maybe all this is just really telling me that I need a full frame camera instead haha.
Astral/H3X
Member
Uh, yeah you won't get much Bokeh at F8. For bokeh you want it WIIIIIDE.
plz note I exclusively shoot at 1.4 :x
EDIT: I say you won't get "much". By "not much", I mean "basically none".
nhlducks35
Member
Don't want to sound like a dick but bokeh refers to the quality of the DoF, not the actual effect of having a shallow depth of field
QualityPixel
Banned
What are you taking pictures of? I would likely suggest a Micro 4/3 camera so you would have a wider depth of field. The company I contract for was able to get away with a cheap DSLR and a 18-55mm lens. DSLRs will provide the best value.