Dominican Power
Member
Return it, get your money back and buy Hori.
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Super "NeoGAF Arcade Stick Thread" II TURBO
- Thread starter MarkMan
- Start date
Return it, get your money back and buy Hori.
robotzombie
Member
Can I return it this much later? Directly with Amazon?
HungOverOnATues
Member
I don't think I've even heard of the Hayabusa until reading this thread a few days ago. I've been using LS-32s for several years now and got the itch to toy around with something different. With some of the enthusiasm here for the Hayabusa and LS-40, I bought both, along with a 2lb spring, oversize actuator, and octagonal gate for the Hori. Probably shouldn't have gotten the Hayabusa given its apparent similarities to the JLF which I'm not crazy about due to its tension/throw, and I already have a spare one of those kicking around, but screw it, I'm curious about how it feels.
Too late to return it to Amazon. MCZ customer service is pretty good and they'll likely give you a replacement, but sending it back will require you to pay for shipping. I still wouldn't recommend it though, since I went through two faulty units before I decided to just toss it and buy a Hori stick.
hitsugi
Member
Heads up - the MadCatz TES+ is on sale for $164 at Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018AW408C/?tag=neogaf0e-20
...Yes, I had issues with the PCB on mine, but it's being replaced. Hopefully the second time is the charm.
I can also vouch for this process although I had a fairly burdensome experience just getting to the part where they asked me to ship the stick back.
...Yes, I had issues with the PCB on mine, but it's being replaced. Hopefully the second time is the charm.
I can also vouch for this process although I had a fairly burdensome experience just getting to the part where they asked me to ship the stick back.
Dominican Power
Member
What a waste of money.
robotzombie
Member
Thats pretty disgusting...
Anyone know where I might find a shaft cover like this one
Shitty pic but I think the color and shape is not something you need hi-res for lol. Don't think the ones sold by FA/PAS/AS/askishop really match up. Correct me if I'm wrong.
Also any ideas what stick this color might look good in? I love this color balltop/cover but I don't think it'd look good in what I have.
Shitty pic but I think the color and shape is not something you need hi-res for lol. Don't think the ones sold by FA/PAS/AS/askishop really match up. Correct me if I'm wrong.
Also any ideas what stick this color might look good in? I love this color balltop/cover but I don't think it'd look good in what I have.
:/ Ugh.
My TE2+ has its button stuck on RS no matter what I do. From what I read it's likely a PCB issue as well. Not looking forward to this especially since shipping from Hawaii will be a pain.
HungOverOnATues
Member
When I had issues with the PCB in my MadCatz SE I sent MadCatz an email about the possibility of getting a replacement PCB. They put me on a list for a replacement since they had a shortage at the time, so it did take a while, but they ended up sending me one in the mail. I sent in the request around only 9-10 months after purchasing it, so maybe that's why they were so accommodating, but they didn't seem to care that I opened it up to replace the stick and buttons or that I soldered on a new USB cable to test for that.
bob_arctor
Tough_Smooth
So...how the LS-56 working for you so far? Like I mentioned, I switched over to it full-time now. Using Karin on it feels so good.
Do you like circle gate? I use it as an alternative to MAS stick, and tighter controls.
The new revision uses Brooks PCB, the build quality is solid.
I really have no complaints other than the shipping, which can add another $50 to your order.
hitsugi
Member
Perhaps see if you can get a replacement part sent to you instead of having to RMA the whole stick. Shipping only cost me $11 but that's beside the point.
I had to take a video demonstrating the issue and then also give the results of a test I ran in windows. And that was after they closed my first ticket with no resolution. Like... look, your stick is fucked, here's what doesn't work, YOU look at it. I thought that was crazy but whatever. Hopefully the next one works fine and this is water under the bridge I guess.
robotzombie
Member
So is there just no recourse for Madcatz having made complete garbage sticks that obviously are faulty? I mean after they "fix" them multiple times for a single person, at a certain point doesn't that person just deserve a refund?
I'm digging it. Played about 50 games of SF5 last night with a friend. No input errors that I could blame on the stick, feels MUCH better than stock sanwa.
I think I'll put two of these in my cab since Hayabusa won't fit.
Ban Puncher
Member
Is there some way to jury-rig my Hori Real Arcade Pro.V Hayabusa to my Dreamcast? I just picked up Super Street Fighter II X and couldn't be arsed getting the DC stick out of storage.
Yeah, I was looking to getting a MAS stick for a couple of months, then realizing/finding out people don't really make them anymore. Then I was looking at IL sticks, and it would cost me $40-50 to just get one with shipping included. So at this point I'm considering the Korean stick Seems that makes the most sense on the quality/price factor.
Can anyone point me towards new switches for my Dreamcast official/agetec stick? Just got one from ebay and two don't work. I don't really care what they are honestly, but something that feels similar to the stock switches and wouldn't require cutting bigger holes.
EDIT: Looks like I need 28mm buttons, hmm..
EDIT: Looks like I need 28mm buttons, hmm..
The best kind of stick art.
GAF,
I'm in the market for a fightstick, and I need some opinions on the options listed below. I play mainly on PC, but will also use the fightstick on my PS4. Mainly, I want a solidly built fightstick that I can modify and service in the future. My budget is $300, and I realize I have some options here:
Premade
Hori Real Arcade Pro V. Premium VLX - At $300, this is the most expensive stick on the list. It seems like it's built like a tank, and very large in size. Is this stick worth the premium price?
Mad Catz TE2+ - Seems like a good stick where you can easily service or mod the joystick and button. Any issue with using it on PC? I used to have an older Mad Catz where I needed a specific USB chip for it to work on PC.
Mad Catz TES+ - It looks like the baby brother of the TE2+. My main concern with Mad Catz products is their reliability. Does anybody have experience any issue with them?
DIY
I've never made a fightstick before, so this could be a fun project for me. I also have control on what component I use.
PCB - Brook UFB. Support all consoles and PC. Nice to have as I also have a WII U.
Joystick - Sanwa JLF. I noticed that Sanwa also makes a silent version, or I can even replace the PCB with an optical PCB. Does anybody have experience with them?I do my gaming at night, so a silent stick interest me.
Button - Sanwa OBS. I found that Paradise Arcade makes drop in replacements using Cherry MX switch. Does anybody have experience with them? Are these a worthwhile upgrade?
Case - Anybody have any suggestions? I love Jasen's Panzerstick as it's made of steel, but it's so expensive. I think I'm going to settle with the one from Tek Innovation.
Thanks!
I'm in the market for a fightstick, and I need some opinions on the options listed below. I play mainly on PC, but will also use the fightstick on my PS4. Mainly, I want a solidly built fightstick that I can modify and service in the future. My budget is $300, and I realize I have some options here:
Premade
Hori Real Arcade Pro V. Premium VLX - At $300, this is the most expensive stick on the list. It seems like it's built like a tank, and very large in size. Is this stick worth the premium price?
Mad Catz TE2+ - Seems like a good stick where you can easily service or mod the joystick and button. Any issue with using it on PC? I used to have an older Mad Catz where I needed a specific USB chip for it to work on PC.
Mad Catz TES+ - It looks like the baby brother of the TE2+. My main concern with Mad Catz products is their reliability. Does anybody have experience any issue with them?
DIY
I've never made a fightstick before, so this could be a fun project for me. I also have control on what component I use.
PCB - Brook UFB. Support all consoles and PC. Nice to have as I also have a WII U.
Joystick - Sanwa JLF. I noticed that Sanwa also makes a silent version, or I can even replace the PCB with an optical PCB. Does anybody have experience with them?I do my gaming at night, so a silent stick interest me.
Button - Sanwa OBS. I found that Paradise Arcade makes drop in replacements using Cherry MX switch. Does anybody have experience with them? Are these a worthwhile upgrade?
Case - Anybody have any suggestions? I love Jasen's Panzerstick as it's made of steel, but it's so expensive. I think I'm going to settle with the one from Tek Innovation.
Thanks!
hikarutilmitt
Member
You can go with a modern (updated, that is) Hori RAP v4 Kai that has the Hayabusa Lever and Hayabusa buttons. It has xinput detection built-in and the stock parts are all quality. It's about $150 give or take the vendor, so you have plenty of room for modification and cost.
I've just bought my first stick, a Hori RAP4 kai for PS4. It's the cheapest stick available in Brazil (around US$265) and I'm really excited to try it out. I read that the Kuro buttons may not be as good as Sanwa, but if I don' get used to them I will just change them in the future.
May I ask where are you located?
So I decided to throw this together, what do you thing? Nothing says artsy like throwing a filter at a stock image 
Or should I just use the art without the filter?
Yeah, check them out first. I always feel it's a waste to throw away the buttons right away if you have a decent stick.
Or should I just use the art without the filter?
Yeah, check them out first. I always feel it's a waste to throw away the buttons right away if you have a decent stick.
Dominican Power
Member
You forgot the HRAP V Kai
Boston, MA
Thanks! HRAP 4 Kai is on my list to look into, since I don't have xbox.
So I decided to throw this together, what do you thing? Nothing says artsy like throwing a filter at a stock image
Or should I just use the art without the filter?
Yeah, check them out first. I always feel it's a waste to throw away the buttons right away if you have a decent stick.
Hm, kind of want to see without the filter, but it isn't bad. A big thing though, what colour buttons and balltop? Would it be transparent buttons with art underneath (which would look best for that seemingly)
I'll show the no filter version after I come back from work.
And no clear parts. I'm actually ordering more art than I need so I don't feel I'm losing much on shipping from Tek Innovation. Gotta submit my art soon.
I need to find someone to make some cool art for my HRAP 4 Kai. Might do a Laura design for it. My TE2 I just got the black plexi from Tek-Innovations which is great.
Anyone know where could I go about that? Because I am not artistic at all.
Well, here it is without the filter.
Maybe there are people you can commission to do it on SRK or similar sites. On my own I haven't been able to think up much good stuff but they make due. If you want to do something on your own make sure it's at least full 1080p so it comes out clear when printed.
Maybe there are people you can commission to do it on SRK or similar sites. On my own I haven't been able to think up much good stuff but they make due. If you want to do something on your own make sure it's at least full 1080p so it comes out clear when printed.
I think it's better without the filter.
Thanks. I wanted to do an Eyedol Exclusive stick art but had no idea where to go with it, even after cleaning up the stock art, taking screenshots of him doing some attacks for silhoutes, and looking up plenty of potential backgrounds.
In the end I just did this instead.
OmegaTreeFish
Banned
Hi guys. Wondering if anyone can help me
I got a mayflash f300 a while back to play sfv and KI. Its great for a casual player like me but i got the urge to upgrade the buttons and stick to sanwa. They turned up today and the buttons were easy enough but i have questions with regards to the sticks wiring as im totally inexperienced in this.
The stock stick has 8 white wires going to 8 different points on the stick. The sanwa stick i have i also got a jlf-h connector which you just slide on but that has 5 loose wires. How do i work this? Any ideas?
I got a mayflash f300 a while back to play sfv and KI. Its great for a casual player like me but i got the urge to upgrade the buttons and stick to sanwa. They turned up today and the buttons were easy enough but i have questions with regards to the sticks wiring as im totally inexperienced in this.
The stock stick has 8 white wires going to 8 different points on the stick. The sanwa stick i have i also got a jlf-h connector which you just slide on but that has 5 loose wires. How do i work this? Any ideas?
I agree with ScOULaris in that it looks better without the filter.
lol, I'll look at other peoples' existing stick art and sort of copy what they do when I try to composite pieces together, then start toward doing my own thing until it's something I like.
Gonna be changing some Gundam related art to a Jack-O art in the next few days for my TE2+.
notworksafe
Member
@NEO0MJ I'd go either without the filter on your stick or with a different filter that slightly mutes the colors. The brightness of the first one you posted is a little too overpowering.
HungOverOnATues
Member
I have to imagine that if it's using 8 wires for the joystick, then the mayflash PCB is not using a common ground. You'd have to cut the traces on the JLF's PCB and wire directly to the terminals on the micro-switches.
edit: To expand on this a bit, the JLF has 5 wires because 4 of them are signals for each switch, and the 5th is a shared ground wire. The mayflash likely has separate grounds for each direction, so each direction would have its own signal and ground. In order to provide the mayflash with 4 separate ground connections, you'll have to cut the traces on the JLFs PCB which connects the grounds together - you should be able to tell where they are connected by visual inspection, but also by checking the resistance with a multimeter as the 4 ground points will have zero resistance between them.
The JLF is a very common joystick and this sort of mod is required to make it work with various padhacks or PCBs like this mayflash one, so finding an image of where to cut shouldn't be difficult if you're not comfortable with doing it. If you're looking to wire to the micro-switches without soldering, you may need the larger 0.187" quick disconnects rather than the 0.110" used for the buttons, but I'm not positive on that.
OmegaTreeFish
Banned
Thanks. Know of any guides on how to do that as i dont even know what a pcb is.
Thing ia the stick says ita compatible with sanwa buttons and stick (buttons working great btw).
I did see a mod on an older mayflash where he only attached one of the ground wires ans left the others loose.
The Mayflash PCB should have two sets of joystick connectors: separate connectors for each direction, and a 5-pin connector.
The stock joystick uses separate connectors for each direction, and leaves the 5-pin connector untouched. For a JLF, you need to get this female-to-female cable. Works perfectly on my Mayflash V2.
OmegaTreeFish
Banned
That plugs directly into the pcb (the circuit board thing)???
HungOverOnATues
Member
PCB = Printed Circuit Board. The Mayflash PCB is the green circuit board that the joystick and buttons are wired into. The Sanwa JLF PCB is the green circuit board that the joystick's micro-switches are mounted on.
I'm not clear on what it means by Sanwa compatible. It may just mean that you're able to mount a Sanwa joystick in the chasis without requiring any modification. I'm not familiar with the stick, so I can't really say.
I don't know of a guide for doing this, but it should be fairly straight forward. Before you remove the stock joystick, make sure to take note of which wires are paired together for each direction (micro-switch) on the joystick so that you don't accidentally mix up your signal and ground connections when wiring it up to the JLF.
When cutting the traces on the JLF's PCB, test with a multimeter to make sure the grounds are severed. If you're planning on wiring everything to the JLF micro-switches you don't have to worry about cutting the wrong trace as it would only effect using the 5-pin wiring harness - you could even cut all of the traces on the board if you still aren't sure, but it shouldn't be necessary.
edit:
Huh. That's weird that they would set it up like that. Nice that they give you the option at least.
OmegaTreeFish
Banned
Thanks for the info. Really appreciate it. But poster above might have a simpler solution.just need to find a place in the uk that sells a female to female 5 pin. I have the jlf-h cable. Can you just buy the connector needed and plug the wires in or would that require soldering?
If this gets to complex i will just keep it as a spare part if the current stick breaks but if i can get it to work that would be preferable.
HungOverOnATues
Member
You would use it in place of the JLF-H cable, so one end plugs into the joystick and the other end into the Mayflash PCB.
OmegaTreeFish
Banned
Just looked and that port is right there. So now i just neef to find a place that sells them in the uk. What would its common name be that i could use to search do you think?
By the way you are both awesome. Thanks.
Edit-
Would this work? http://www.arcadeworlduk.com/products/jst-xh-female-to-female-connector-cable.html
HungOverOnATues
Member
That should be it, yes.
OmegaTreeFish
Banned
Purchased. Thanks again. Should receive it in a couple of days.