SapphiCine
Member
I need to get data off a failing hard drive ASAP but I can't move some files. What are my options? Currently running chkdsk /r to try and "fix" bad sectors. It is running very slowly.
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Tech Support GAF Thread: No Case Too Big, No Case Too Small
- Thread starter Hawkian
- Start date
Max capacity. They only draw as much as the system demands at any given time, so whatever your idle or loads look like on a given system, it'll draw just that.
For more quality PSU info, I recommend
http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDFAQs
Great reviews, too.
For more quality PSU info, I recommend
http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDFAQs
Great reviews, too.
FML... either my CPU or motherboard is dead... ugh. I'm hoping for the latter since it's under warranty. Most boots the CPU Q-LED is on, and q code is at 00 with no BIOS. But I can SOMETIMES get to the BIOS... but never the OS. This is some weird shit. I have no idea what could be causing this. If it was power related the system would boot at all. If it was the CPU specifically... then how can I get to the BIOS?
Tech support said I probably have a grounding issue... which sounds logical to me. Thoughts?
Tech support said I probably have a grounding issue... which sounds logical to me. Thoughts?
To add a detail to rufus answer...
The power you draw is the power needed by the elements in the computer, divided by the efficiency. If the PSU has a 90% efficiency, and your PC need 400W, you'll draw ~445W from the outlet (10% of those 445W are wasted in the PSU). If you want to spare some watts, you'll probably want a higher efficiency.
The trick is that efficiency depends on the actual wattage and max wattage. Unless I'm mistaken, the efficiency peaks at ~50-70% of the max wattage. The difference isn't that big, but it can be something like 5%.
So if you need 400W, a 600W PSU will draw less power (~15W) than a 450W PSU...
Interesting website, thanks...
Hey guys, so I recieved my new SSD yesterday to replace my old dying one so I'm about to do the swap today and I can'T remember how it works exactly with Windows 10...
Do I need anything special other than the USB drive created with the official "Media Creation Tool" found on MS' website?
I got Win10 through the free upgrade from Win8.1. Do I need to find my CD-Key somewhere or something or just re-installing on the new drive using the USB drive will authenticate fine?
Do I need anything special other than the USB drive created with the official "Media Creation Tool" found on MS' website?
I got Win10 through the free upgrade from Win8.1. Do I need to find my CD-Key somewhere or something or just re-installing on the new drive using the USB drive will authenticate fine?
Swapping hard drives won't trigger re-activation, just skip the part where it asks for a key.
To be on the safe side, sign in to your MS account and associate your install with it. Once you've installed Windwos on your new SSD, just log in with that account and job done.
Settings > Updates and Security > Activation
(translated from German, the options might be slightly different)
There's a MS FAQ that says as much, but I'm too lazy to dig it up right now. :I
To be on the safe side, sign in to your MS account and associate your install with it. Once you've installed Windwos on your new SSD, just log in with that account and job done.
Settings > Updates and Security > Activation
(translated from German, the options might be slightly different)
There's a MS FAQ that says as much, but I'm too lazy to dig it up right now. :I
Just install W10 and it will activate itself automatically.
Jezbollah
Member
Why don't you use something like Clonezilla to save you time?
Cool, thanks guys
My SSD slowly dying over the last couple of months ended up corrupting a bunch of system files on my Windows installation. Also, it's been a while since my last format so a good clean up will be nice.
Horseticuffs
Full werewolf off the buckle
For about the past month, I've only been able to set my Windows 10 background to a solid color. Anytime I try to set a picture it says I may need to authorize the app or mess around in settings, but I find nothing that matches the error code's description where it tells me to look.
Anyone have a clue?
https://imgur.com/bXKwQtG
Here's a link to the error message.
Anyone have a clue?
https://imgur.com/bXKwQtG
Here's a link to the error message.
Cpt.Underpants
Member
It it possible to have two different broadbands in one house? Other roommate is using talktalk and I wan't to use Sky
sweet, so I'm backing up my files to my portable hard drive and the progress bar is not making any progress. the LED light on the drive is blinking steadily and there's a squeaky noise every 3-4 minutes. And i get this under Win10 disk manager
I'm fucked, aren't I?
Update: Installed the Western Digital Drive Utilities, and I couldn't run any of the scanning programs, so I tried to erase it and got this gem:
I'm fucked, aren't I?
Update: Installed the Western Digital Drive Utilities, and I couldn't run any of the scanning programs, so I tried to erase it and got this gem:
Seems bad :/
Unless one of the broadbands is ADSL and the other is FTTH, I doubt it... I can't see how it could work.
Cpt.Underpants
Member
Its highly likely adsl because in my area there's no fibre optic option
I hope someone has knowledge of soundbars here because I'm having issues.
I've got a Samsung HWF450 soundbar and it's giving me trouble. Recently it just keeps switching settings on it's own, muting on it's own and increasing or decreasing the volume on it's own. I've tried the following to solve the issue.
- Changed the optical cable.
- Disconnected the wireless subwoofer to see if it's the subwoofer causing the issues.
- Use it without the optical cable and plug in an AUX cord and play music
- Powered off the soundbar by disconnecting it from the power and plugging it in again.
Nothing worked and the issues remained. Does someone know what is happening or is the soundbar slowly dying?
I've got a Samsung HWF450 soundbar and it's giving me trouble. Recently it just keeps switching settings on it's own, muting on it's own and increasing or decreasing the volume on it's own. I've tried the following to solve the issue.
- Changed the optical cable.
- Disconnected the wireless subwoofer to see if it's the subwoofer causing the issues.
- Use it without the optical cable and plug in an AUX cord and play music
- Powered off the soundbar by disconnecting it from the power and plugging it in again.
Nothing worked and the issues remained. Does someone know what is happening or is the soundbar slowly dying?
You mean bonding it to have the sum of the bandwidth available? it is possible with a load balancing/VPN router.
Routers with multiple WANs are not easy to come by, and the VPN is not optional if you want a consistent IP address -which has obvious consequences for your latency-.
http://www.tp-link.com/us/faq-715.html
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tqbnjgbtDl0 <- only open this if you can stomach linus shilling hyperconsumerist agitprop (haha)
Cpt.Underpants
Member
Nah. I just want to have my own isp(sky broadband). While my other roommate can have his. I just don't know if there'd be hiccups along the way during the setup
Then there shouldn't be any problems unless both companies use the same point of ingress.
March of the Crabs
Member
So hopefully someone can help:
I started a new job at the beginning of January that uses Outlook and Microsoft Exchange. However, I recently found out that my work email address is only receiving about 60% of emails. I did some tests myself (getting friends to email me/sending things from my personal accounts) and I only actually received the emails about 60% of the time. My job is VERY heavily email-based, and missing any emails could be disastrous - for all I know I've already missed something super important. Does anybody have any idea what is going on/how to fix it?
I started a new job at the beginning of January that uses Outlook and Microsoft Exchange. However, I recently found out that my work email address is only receiving about 60% of emails. I did some tests myself (getting friends to email me/sending things from my personal accounts) and I only actually received the emails about 60% of the time. My job is VERY heavily email-based, and missing any emails could be disastrous - for all I know I've already missed something super important. Does anybody have any idea what is going on/how to fix it?
You can have two adsl isp on the same phone line? I would have sworn it was impossible (at least here), the adsl line is directly connected to the isp.
Being not very smart, I just ordered a 7th gen Intel CPU and a motherboard that supports up to 6th gen cpus (MSI H110M Gaming). A BIOS update will allow the motherboard to support the 7th gen cpu. Will the motherboard allow me to boot up to the BIOS and update it with the 7th gen cpu installed or will I need to borrow a 6th gen cpu for the update?
lordfuzzybutt
Member
You will need to borrow one and update. Or ask your retailer to do it for you perhaps.
so I installed a LINKSYS WRT1900ACS last week. in general everything is going fine I have fine connections ect for the last week.
today I tried playing online for the first time, and my connection seems less stable then usual. I can't rule out that my internet in general is just off today, but I feel like there might be something causing the connections to lag just a little.
i hadn't had any issues with god eater the last two weeks and today on the new router we had repeated connection issues.
and playing 20xx while it has its bugs typically there isn't much if any lag but I am having like .5-1 second lag.
anyone know any settings to change if I am directly connected
I turned off IPv4/6 SPI firewall protection and filter anonymous internet requests hoping those would change things but i haven't noticed much if any change.
today I tried playing online for the first time, and my connection seems less stable then usual. I can't rule out that my internet in general is just off today, but I feel like there might be something causing the connections to lag just a little.
i hadn't had any issues with god eater the last two weeks and today on the new router we had repeated connection issues.
and playing 20xx while it has its bugs typically there isn't much if any lag but I am having like .5-1 second lag.
anyone know any settings to change if I am directly connected
I turned off IPv4/6 SPI firewall protection and filter anonymous internet requests hoping those would change things but i haven't noticed much if any change.
Assuming I managed to build a proper custom iso with debian live tools...
Can someone suggest me a good tool to create a Live Linux on an USB key with persistence from an hybrid iso? Linux or Windows, I don't really care as long as it works. I've used Linux Live Creator in the past, but it seems it's not updated anymore, and persistence isn't working anymore.
Can someone suggest me a good tool to create a Live Linux on an USB key with persistence from an hybrid iso? Linux or Windows, I don't really care as long as it works. I've used Linux Live Creator in the past, but it seems it's not updated anymore, and persistence isn't working anymore.
Herr Schwarz
Banned
Whenever I watch any kind of video on my PC (win10) it pixelates and freezes it's not hard drive cos it even happens on YouTube player.
Anyone seen that before?
Anyone seen that before?
Hello all, got a situation that's been driving me a tad nuts lately. I've have 4x8gb sticks of ram from a build I made in 2013. As of now, I can only use 2 of them non dual channel for my pc to work. Otherwise I just get the dram light and the pic won't post. I've been trying different combinations of 3 and it got it to boot twice. At this point I got greedy and tried the fourth stick and now back to square one. So at the very least I know 3 of them work, however I'm stuck trying them in different positions over and over until I get it to boot again. Not sure what the problem ultimately is.
nicoga3000
Saint Nic
This isn't really a "tech support" question, but more a request? I'm not going to make a thread for it because there's no need to.
I'm testing Google Analytics on a quick blog I created. It's 2 pictures of my dogs. Nothing more, nothing less. I'm attempting to track hits to see how accurate the analytics data is to determine if we can use it on our company website for a more targeted marketing approach.
Would anyone be willing to click the link below to help me gather additional data points?
Analytics picture blog!
I'm testing Google Analytics on a quick blog I created. It's 2 pictures of my dogs. Nothing more, nothing less. I'm attempting to track hits to see how accurate the analytics data is to determine if we can use it on our company website for a more targeted marketing approach.
Would anyone be willing to click the link below to help me gather additional data points?
Analytics picture blog!
The problem is the motherboard. If it was the sticks you would know which one is bad by trying them in the first slot one by one. This sounds more like a slot/motherboard issue.
As somebody who has worked with GA for a while, I can tell you as long as you set it up correctly, it is pretty accurate. Success with GA is more about determining what your key performance metrics (KPIs) are. The biggest "roadblock" is that Google is constantly changing their algorithms so you will have to be cognizant that your numbers may change through no action of your own or your visitors. This can be a PIA once you get really involved.
Web Analytics 2.0 by Avinash Kaushik should be a go to read if you haven't already.
Breaking Normal
Member
I just bought a Bluetooth adapter for my PC so I can use my Xbox One controller (It's the new one with Bluetooth capability) wirelessly. I'm having trouble connecting the controller because for whatever reason my PC isn't recognizing it. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
nicoga3000
Saint Nic
So when you say "set it up correctly", what is there to look into? Our current site was built in Wordpress (not some shitty blog, but a legit site by a big name development team). I'm going to be taking over the site in about a month or two after we get some rudimentary training on the layout they developed for us and such.
The point of GA is so that we can get a general idea of where in the country people are visiting our site from. Ideally, it would be accurate enough to know approximately what major city the hits are coming from. Is that something GA allows me to do?
Having some issues with a SSD I recently found and bought.
Been trying to connect it to my computer and its not being recognized by the OS. Tried seeing if I could find it through disk management which I can but it says unallocated underneath the storage size. Additionally whenever I try to initialize it I get the error "cyclic redundancy check".
Advice?
Been trying to connect it to my computer and its not being recognized by the OS. Tried seeing if I could find it through disk management which I can but it says unallocated underneath the storage size. Additionally whenever I try to initialize it I get the error "cyclic redundancy check".
Advice?
I bought a USB-C to Gigabit Ethernet adapter (+ 3 USB 3.0 ports) for my XPS laptop, and while the USB 3.0 ports work perfectly, the Ethernet port literally drops the connection every minute or so like clockwork. The drop literally lasts a fraction of a second, i.e. it instantly disconnects and reconnects, works perfectly fine for a minute or so, then disconnects/reconnects again, then OK for a minute, and so on...
Any idea what's causing this issue and how to fix it?
Any idea what's causing this issue and how to fix it?
cjp
Junior Member
Here's a weird one I'm having at work and I'm running out of solutions. Well, I have run out.
When using Photoshop CS5.1, going to File > Print results in the following three error messages, one after the other:
"The saved print information is an incompatible version. It has been set to default values."
"The saved printer information is not compatible with this version of Photoshop, or the saved printer is no longer available. You will need to check your printer settings before printing."
"There was an error opening your printer. Printing functions will not be available until you have selected a printer and reopened any documents."
After these three error messages File > Print is greyed out and no longer accessible. It appears to be neither user or computer specific, instead happening seemingly at random.
Tried the following resolutions and none have been successful:
1. Clearing all stored Photoshop preferences (including printer settings) on startup by holding Ctrl-Alt-Shift.
2. Creating a new image document (as printer preferences can be saved in the metadata of the .psd file).
3. Clearing out AppData folder.
4. Using DelProf (suggested by a colleague).
The only other documented solution I've found regarding this problem is to rename the printers as apparently numbers in the printer name can cause errors - however this is unlikely to be the cause as this issue has only recently began occurring.
Any ideas? Don't want to really go through the process of re imaging all the machines that are having this issue only to see it still occurs. Currently working around it by saving as a .pdf and then printing from a different application but that's obviously not ideal.
When using Photoshop CS5.1, going to File > Print results in the following three error messages, one after the other:
"The saved print information is an incompatible version. It has been set to default values."
"The saved printer information is not compatible with this version of Photoshop, or the saved printer is no longer available. You will need to check your printer settings before printing."
"There was an error opening your printer. Printing functions will not be available until you have selected a printer and reopened any documents."
After these three error messages File > Print is greyed out and no longer accessible. It appears to be neither user or computer specific, instead happening seemingly at random.
Tried the following resolutions and none have been successful:
1. Clearing all stored Photoshop preferences (including printer settings) on startup by holding Ctrl-Alt-Shift.
2. Creating a new image document (as printer preferences can be saved in the metadata of the .psd file).
3. Clearing out AppData folder.
4. Using DelProf (suggested by a colleague).
The only other documented solution I've found regarding this problem is to rename the printers as apparently numbers in the printer name can cause errors - however this is unlikely to be the cause as this issue has only recently began occurring.
Any ideas? Don't want to really go through the process of re imaging all the machines that are having this issue only to see it still occurs. Currently working around it by saving as a .pdf and then printing from a different application but that's obviously not ideal.
So I spilled coffee all over over my Macbook's keyboard a while ago. Didn't have warranty on it anymore, so I put it away in the closet declaring it dead. Fast forward a couple of months and my curiosity got the best of me, so I tried to turn it on and the damn thing works!
After I spilled the coffee on it, I turned it off ASAP and flipped it upside down so that as much of the fluid could leave the computer. I just never tried it out after I had its data backed up, so I'm not sure how safe it is to use.
In short, my question is: should I keep using it as if nothing happened, or should I take it apart and try to clean out its guts from leftover (dry) coffee to minimize corrosion damage once it stars heating up? It still kinda smells like coffee, hehe.
Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
After I spilled the coffee on it, I turned it off ASAP and flipped it upside down so that as much of the fluid could leave the computer. I just never tried it out after I had its data backed up, so I'm not sure how safe it is to use.
In short, my question is: should I keep using it as if nothing happened, or should I take it apart and try to clean out its guts from leftover (dry) coffee to minimize corrosion damage once it stars heating up? It still kinda smells like coffee, hehe.
Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
nicoga3000
Saint Nic
If it's out of warranty already and you're comfortable with it, there's no reason not to take it apart. The coffee dried, but heating it up will probably cause it to liquify again. Couldn't hurt to take it apart and clean it with 91% Isoprop.
Thanks. Cotton swabs, that kind of stuff would work I suppose? Anything specific to look out for for?
Valdfellgar
Banned
So I figured I'd post here before I take my Computer in, so I can get an idea of what the problem is and what I should ask them to do to try and fix it.
I have an Alienware 2012 M17x R4 I believe. It ran great until early 2016 when I started having issues. It's already been into Geeksquad once, and while their efforts helped things for a bit, I'm having heat issues again.
Namely just visiting say, NeoGaf, causes the computer to jump in temperature to 70C say. This wouldn't been too big of an issue (although the sound of the fans annoys me) but when attempting to do anything really intensive it's only a matter of time before the computer begins to lag.
For example, playing Star Wars Battlefront the temperature shoots up to 90C, 95C and after a bit of playing the computer's CPU Max Frequency (Which already isn't running by this point at 100%, despite prioritizing high performance in the system settings) drops considerably. At first it's sitting at like 70%, but after 10-15 minutes of playing drops to the mid 20s while the CPU usage jumps from the 60s to the 80s-100s.
From what little I've found online this speaks to a heat issue, where the laptop isn't able to cool itself and thus throttles performance to prevent overheating. So, I guess my best course of action, if I still want to do anything intensive with this computer, is to take it into Geeksquad, get them to replicate the issue and potentially replace/repair the cooling system? I was hoping someone could help me figure out if I'm on the right track or not? I'd like to finally get this properly dealt with =/.
Thanks.
I have an Alienware 2012 M17x R4 I believe. It ran great until early 2016 when I started having issues. It's already been into Geeksquad once, and while their efforts helped things for a bit, I'm having heat issues again.
Namely just visiting say, NeoGaf, causes the computer to jump in temperature to 70C say. This wouldn't been too big of an issue (although the sound of the fans annoys me) but when attempting to do anything really intensive it's only a matter of time before the computer begins to lag.
For example, playing Star Wars Battlefront the temperature shoots up to 90C, 95C and after a bit of playing the computer's CPU Max Frequency (Which already isn't running by this point at 100%, despite prioritizing high performance in the system settings) drops considerably. At first it's sitting at like 70%, but after 10-15 minutes of playing drops to the mid 20s while the CPU usage jumps from the 60s to the 80s-100s.
From what little I've found online this speaks to a heat issue, where the laptop isn't able to cool itself and thus throttles performance to prevent overheating. So, I guess my best course of action, if I still want to do anything intensive with this computer, is to take it into Geeksquad, get them to replicate the issue and potentially replace/repair the cooling system? I was hoping someone could help me figure out if I'm on the right track or not? I'd like to finally get this properly dealt with =/.
Thanks.
Zepp Twofist
Member
Either a fan is broken, the ducts leading the air out of the laptop are clogged by dust, or the heatsink needs to be reseated on the CPU.
Here is a video on how to do the latter: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pnzLJkFWMLE
Here is a video on how to do the latter: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pnzLJkFWMLE
Valdfellgar
Banned
Hmm okay sounds like something I could try and fix myself. Don't really have the time to take it to Best Buy till April anyway. Thanks! I'll try those suggestions.
so the new humble bundle has some software stuff in it
https://www.humblebundle.com/pc-lovers-software-bundle
I bought it for dameon tools because it is useful (though I am sure the free lite version is just fine)
I was wondering if anyone had used System Mechanic 16.5?
as far as i know most programs like it actually hurt your performance as your computer is already designed to clean up stuff as it goes but I was wondering if anyone had thoughts on it.
https://www.humblebundle.com/pc-lovers-software-bundle
I bought it for dameon tools because it is useful (though I am sure the free lite version is just fine)
I was wondering if anyone had used System Mechanic 16.5?
as far as i know most programs like it actually hurt your performance as your computer is already designed to clean up stuff as it goes but I was wondering if anyone had thoughts on it.
Gentleman Jack
Member
Replaced MB/CPU and RAM recently, and the next time Win10 booted it got stuck at 62% "Getting Devices Ready" for over four hours, so I reset it thinking some part of the chipset installation had gone badly, hoping that windows would at least boot into a state where I could run the setup off the supplied DVD.
On reboot, I started to run the installers one at a time off the DVD, but none of them would complete. They all get stuck right around 80% and hang, requiring a hard 'End Task' from Task Manager.
I now find that I can't install any drivers, even my video card. nvidia drivers get maybe 10% before also hanging. Something is corrupted in my system and I can't use any external USB peripherals besides a keyboard and mouse. Clicking on system devices in Device manager actually hangs when I try to view 'Details' on anything associated with my MB's chipset. I'm at a loss for what to do. The computer kind of works in as much as I can still use most of my applications, but without a mic or any way to attach external usb devices of any kind my computer's useless for work.
On reboot, I started to run the installers one at a time off the DVD, but none of them would complete. They all get stuck right around 80% and hang, requiring a hard 'End Task' from Task Manager.
I now find that I can't install any drivers, even my video card. nvidia drivers get maybe 10% before also hanging. Something is corrupted in my system and I can't use any external USB peripherals besides a keyboard and mouse. Clicking on system devices in Device manager actually hangs when I try to view 'Details' on anything associated with my MB's chipset. I'm at a loss for what to do. The computer kind of works in as much as I can still use most of my applications, but without a mic or any way to attach external usb devices of any kind my computer's useless for work.
Aarglefarg
Member
I was sent an email from a former coworker wanting tech support. But I don't have much experience with iTunes or Windows 10. And I don't have access to his computer.
He said iTunes wouldn't recognise his ipod or iphone. He said it was suggested that he uninstall and reinstall itunes but after uninstalling and trying to download it, it refused to download. He is running Windows 10.
It might not be much to go on but does anyone know what it might be?
He said iTunes wouldn't recognise his ipod or iphone. He said it was suggested that he uninstall and reinstall itunes but after uninstalling and trying to download it, it refused to download. He is running Windows 10.
It might not be much to go on but does anyone know what it might be?