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Raspberry Pi Gaming thread - Cheap emulation and gaming projects

dose

Member
I've been using Recalbox since getting my Pi, and they released a new version the other day, v4.0.0-beta3
https://github.com/recalbox/recalbox-os/releases
Changelog :
Xarcade2jstick button remapped + better support of IPAC encoders
Added IPAC2 keyboard encoder
Patched xpad driver to support Xbox One controllers in USB mode
Updated gamepads inputs to support moonlight
Fix some kodi bugs about joysticks
Added OpenGL + scalers supports to scummvm
Power management switch support for pin 5/6
Fix freeze issue with libretro-mgba core
Added megatools
Added new recalbox 4.0.0 systems
Added crt-pi shaders
Fix Namco/Taito games in mame2003
Added kempston joystick by default for zxspectrum
Updated scummvm to version 1.8
Added VIM
Added recalbox-themes package
Recalbox theme by default
If you've not used it before it currently supports the following...
Wonderswan Color
Lutro : LUA framework
NeoGeo
NeoGeo Pocket Color
Vectrex
Game And Watch
Lynx
PRBoom
Atari 7800
Game Boy/Color/Advance
Cavestory
PC Engine
SuperGrafx
Moonlight – Streaming nvidia
Mame2003 – default core for mame
Atari ST
Amstrad CPC
Sinclair ZX Spectrum
Sinclair ZX 81
Odyssey 2/Videopac
libretro-fba 0.2.97.37
Nintendo 64
NES
SNES
Atari 2600
ScummVM
 
using a fan on a Pi is just a presonal preference really, even if you do run it overclocked and keep it cool with a fan it will still be prone to crashing after a while, only so much these little chips can handle that i've done with testing one.

I have a heatsync on my zero because I tried to push it to the limit, but overall it's not worth the bother apart from experimental fun.
 

Anony

Member
nothing to do with gaming, but i could use some help, i'm following this guide to set up an AP using the rpi:
http://elinux.org/RPI-Wireless-Hotspot
i've followed pretty much everything except the part with the static ip because i've set that up on my router to assign the ip to the rpi already
i've done everything and i see is the broadcast ssid, but i can't connect to it, it's just stuck on 'obtaining ip' so my best guess is something is up with the udhcpd part of the tutorial
 

Arials

Member
Potentially stupid question incoming:

I want to update from whatever retropie version I have installed on my pi to the latest version but I don't want to lose the save files for the games I've been playing on it... there should be a straightforward way to do that right?
 
So I got a Raspberry Pi 3 a couple weeks ago and installed the latest version of RetroPie on it. It's been running mostly great, but there are a few issues I've been having that I can't seem to find answers to online.
Sometimes the game sound cuts out for a few seconds every minute or so. The issue will probably go away with a system restart, and it seems to start when changing games (it doesn't seem to start if I've been playing a game for a while with no issue), but it's really annoying.
Also, a couple of times the system has started up in probably 640x480 instead of 1920x1080. It fixes itself if I restart a few times. This started one week ago when I got my Hori Fighting Commander 4 (great controller), but I don't know if that's related.
Has anyone heard of these issues?
 
Potentially stupid question incoming:

I want to update from whatever retropie version I have installed on my pi to the latest version but I don't want to lose the save files for the games I've been playing on it... there should be a straightforward way to do that right?

It's actually pretty easy!

Go to RetroPie-Setup and hit the command to get the latest scripts. Once that is done, just run the install from binary and you'll get the latest version without losing anything. I would recommend backing up just in case something goes wrong.
 

Dalto11

Member
Just finished building my poorly rigged up, electric tape monster all in one emulator a little while back using the Pi zero. Figured I'd post here.

mxw6f1w.jpg

zgYrHZx.jpg


Overall I'm very, very happy with the performance. Earlier PS1 and N64 titles are more playable than I expected. I cannot for the life of me figure out how to get the PS1 emulator to accept analog inputs.
 

8bit

Knows the Score
Just finished building my poorly rigged up, electric tape monster all in one emulator a little while back using the Pi zero. Figured I'd post here.




Overall I'm very, very happy with the performance. Earlier PS1 and N64 titles are more playable than I expected. I cannot for the life of me figure out how to get the PS1 emulator to accept analog inputs.

You could have put all of those in an original (ie the massive one) xbox controller.
 

muteki

Member
Got everything together and after what is probably the easiest installation I'm pretty impressed. Everything I've tried runs great, and if I can figure out how to get N64 and DC to not be 1080p I think those will run well too. Not having to drag my consoles downstairs and have them still look like ass is amazing.

I only have a handful of things to work out...getting it to be fullscreen was as simple as changing a line in a config file, and the default controller mappings for NES are horrible, still need to work that out. The default scraper also is slow and bad at matching but all minor things. Works great! Will probably destroy my progress in my real backlog :(

Getting inconsistent results messing with the resolution settings. Sometimes stretches, sometimes not. PS1 appears to ignore whatever I tell it, always 480 4:3. Dreamcast performance a little bit better, but can't get analog controls to work. Still a few things to work out, but no big deal.
 

Jockel

Member
Is there any reason why I should choose either Retropie or Recalbox over the other? And is there hope for X68000 emulation down the line? Lastly, what happened to the ignition OS?
 

Arials

Member
It's actually pretty easy!

Go to RetroPie-Setup and hit the command to get the latest scripts. Once that is done, just run the install from binary and you'll get the latest version without losing anything. I would recommend backing up just in case something goes wrong.

Just done this and it deleted everything... got some odd error messages as well. The back up worked tho so it's all good.

I'm going to copy all the important files with samba share then do a fresh install I think.
 

JEKKI

Member
I'm interested in this topic, but got a quick question first...

it seems some places (like amazon) upsell power supplies with the unit:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MARDJZ4/?tag=neogaf0e-20

do I need this? is there any advantage to having a dedicated power supply?

or am I good with just using a USB cable with any of my USB hubs that I use to charge my cell phone or tablet or PSVita?

does a basic iphone wall plug provide sufficient power to the unit? or am I in a position where performance will be affected if I do not supply the correct power?
 

Ecto311

Member
I'm interested in this topic, but got a quick question first...

it seems some places (like amazon) upsell power supplies with the unit:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MARDJZ4/?tag=neogaf0e-20

do I need this? is there any advantage to having a dedicated power supply?

or am I good with just using a USB cable with any of my USB hubs that I use to charge my cell phone or tablet or PSVita?

does a basic iphone wall plug provide sufficient power to the unit? or am I in a position where performance will be affected if I do not supply the correct power?

When I got mine last week I just paid $8 for the power at microcenter. It says it needs 2.5a @ 5v and I checked I had a few supplies that put that out but might as well get another one. I assume anything putting that out would work fine and you don't need it. If you have a microcenter close they don't pack in anything you don't need but do have those packs if you want.

Has anyone configured retropi with just a keyboard or do I need some kind of USB game pad? I was playing with it the other night but it just has me put in button options and won't go past that.
 

JEKKI

Member
When I got mine last week I just paid $8 for the power at microcenter. It says it needs 2.5a @ 5v and I checked I had a few supplies that put that out but might as well get another one. I assume anything putting that out would work fine and you don't need it. If you have a microcenter close they don't pack in anything you don't need but do have those packs if you want.
ok so my first thought is "oh shit, micro center sells raspberry pis?!?! there's one not too far from me! I can go over there and avoid paying for shipping / amazon prime inflated price!"

but then I checked their website...

and apparently there's 3 different units?

MCM, Element 14, and Allied Electronics?

ummm... what's the difference? it seems the MCM one comes with a case at least...
 

MRORANGE

Member
I'm interested in this topic, but got a quick question first...

it seems some places (like amazon) upsell power supplies with the unit:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MARDJZ4/?tag=neogaf0e-20

do I need this? is there any advantage to having a dedicated power supply?

or am I good with just using a USB cable with any of my USB hubs that I use to charge my cell phone or tablet or PSVita?

does a basic iphone wall plug provide sufficient power to the unit? or am I in a position where performance will be affected if I do not supply the correct power?

As long as it's 2A or above it should be good, avoid running the Raspberry pi througha USB hub, you end up getting a raindbow square in the top right meaning there is not enough power getting to the Pi which degrades performance in games, especially PSX stuff.
 

Ecto311

Member
ok so my first thought is "oh shit, micro center sells raspberry pis?!?! there's one not too far from me! I can go over there and avoid paying for shipping / amazon prime inflated price!"

but then I checked their website...

and apparently there's 3 different units?

MCM, Element 14, and Allied Electronics?

ummm... what's the difference? it seems the MCM one comes with a case at least...

Again falling back on some googling I did at the store so it is limited but apparently all the boards are made by the same place and sold by distributors with their own warranties and return/fix plans. I got the element 14 because google had some bad news about allied. Not sure how true it is but they don't reply to emails or anything.
 

JEKKI

Member
As long as it's 2A or above it should be good, avoid running the Raspberry pi througha USB hub, you end up getting a raindbow square in the top right meaning there is not enough power getting to the Pi which degrades performance in games, especially PSX stuff.
ok, so I think my iphone charger has 1A (per google, dang thing is impossible to actually read), my nexus 9 is 1.5A, and my 4 port usb charger is 4.2 total but shared with a max output of 2.something,

and you said not to use a hub which means I guess I should buy the power supply?

in that case, I'm glad I asked!!

Again falling back on some googling I did at the store so it is limited but apparently all the boards are made by the same place and sold by distributors with their own warranties and return/fix plans. I got the element 14 because google had some bad news about allied. Not sure how true it is but they don't reply to emails or anything.
ahh cool cool. in general though, knowing that microcenter carries them I'd jus be curious to go there and window shop, I'm in no rush to actually get one soon.

I live by a Frys too but their website doesnt list the model 3s, only the older ones so I'm not so inclined to pay a visit there.
 

Ecto311

Member
ok, so I think my iphone charger has 1A (per google, dang thing is impossible to actually read), my nexus 9 is 1.5A, and my 4 port usb charger is 4.2 total but shared with a max output of 2.something,

and you said not to use a hub which means I guess I should buy the power supply?

in that case, I'm glad I asked!!

ahh cool cool. in general though, knowing that microcenter carries them I'd jus be curious to go there and window shop, I'm in no rush to actually get one soon.

I live by a Frys too but their website doesnt list the model 3s, only the older ones so I'm not so inclined to pay a visit there.

Some microcenters even have Raspberry pi zero in stock. Not mine in denver though.
 

JEKKI

Member
awwww yeay~!!!

13117830_1082208015159465_283146726_n.jpg


went the Microcenter route.

first of all, it's been hella long since I been into microcenter, and I'm rather disappointed that their gaming section no longer carries psx and ps2 games,

but secondly... the device was on sale for only $30! That's $5+shipping less than everywhere else and like $12 off the amazon price!

still need a power cable, case, sdcard, and heatsinks for it... (which ultimately together cost more than the device itself lol)

I'll pick those up next week but for now I'm happy I got a good deal on the unit!
 

Jimrpg

Member
ok, so I think my iphone charger has 1A (per google, dang thing is impossible to actually read), my nexus 9 is 1.5A, and my 4 port usb charger is 4.2 total but shared with a max output of 2.something,

and you said not to use a hub which means I guess I should buy the power supply?

in that case, I'm glad I asked!!

ahh cool cool. in general though, knowing that microcenter carries them I'd jus be curious to go there and window shop, I'm in no rush to actually get one soon.

I live by a Frys too but their website doesnt list the model 3s, only the older ones so I'm not so inclined to pay a visit there.

You should be able to use that 4 port USB charger as long as you plug it into the 2A port. Any micro USB cable will do. You need a micro sd card and hdmi and keyboard mouse too.
 

Sanic

Member
I can't seem to get retroarch to detect my second controller.

I have two cheap SNES USB pads, both work fine independently. But retroarch never detects the second controller if it's plugged in. I even tried plugging the controllers into my PC and running retroarch there, and both are detected just fine.

I'm wondering if it's an issue with the (unpowered) USB hub i'm running them through on my pi zero? Has anyone run into any similar issues?
 

MRORANGE

Member
Well I finally got that 12v screen to run off the raspberry pi GPIO pins:


It uses a 5v to 12v DC step-up converter and runs off the GPIO pins, this will make it portable, but will have some impact on battery life, finally think I've made some progress on this, but it's gonna take at least a few months or when I can find some time to make this thing decent enough to be feasibly playable.
 

Ecto311

Member
Can anyone clarify for me - I can run a joystick and buttons off of the pins on the GPIO and I don't need to buy a USB game pad to hack the buttons onto for a cabinet? Sounds a lot easier than I thought if so.

Ultimately I am looking to make a 2 player cabinet with 6 buttons per person unless 8 is needed/possible.
 

MRORANGE

Member
Can anyone clarify for me - I can run a joystick and buttons off of the pins on the GPIO and I don't need to buy a USB game pad to hack the buttons onto for a cabinet? Sounds a lot easier than I thought if so.

Ultimately I am looking to make a 2 player cabinet with 6 buttons per person unless 8 is needed/possible.

Yes, you can can but it's a bit of a hassle last time I checked, since it was based on each emulator, but retropie might be smarter now to do this with ease.

Most arcade buttons come with a sub controller that works flawlessly with the retrope-setup script for gamepads.
 

Miker

Member
I'm planning on going to MicroCenter and buying an RP3 this weekend. Here's my shopping list, with links:

Raspberry Pi 3
32GB Class 10 microSD card
Official Raspberry Pi case
MicroUSB wall charger

Some questions regarding the above items:
- This was just asked, but are heatsinks necessary? I plan on emulating up to PS1 games with some nice CRT filters, and I don't know if overclocking is necessary for that. Or if overclocking is necessary, if it'll put out enough heat that heatsinks are required.
- The case linked above won't show the LED lights on the Pi 3. I'm guessing it makes no difference?
- The charger is rated at 2A. That should be plenty to power a Pi 3, right? Or do I want to spend extra on a separate wall plug w/ a microUSB cable that has an on/off switch?
 

muteki

Member
I'm planning on going to MicroCenter and buying an RP3 this weekend. Here's my shopping list, with links:

Raspberry Pi 3
32GB Class 10 microSD card
Official Raspberry Pi case
MicroUSB wall charger

Some questions regarding the above items:
- This was just asked, but are heatsinks necessary? I plan on emulating up to PS1 games with some nice CRT filters, and I don't know if overclocking is necessary for that. Or if overclocking is necessary, if it'll put out enough heat that heatsinks are required.
- The case linked above won't show the LED lights on the Pi 3. I'm guessing it makes no difference?
- The charger is rated at 2A. That should be plenty to power a Pi 3, right? Or do I want to spend extra on a separate wall plug w/ a microUSB cable that has an on/off switch?

I picked up a similar batch of stuff a couple weeks ago.

I'm not sure what LEDs you are talking about, but that case does show the power LEDs on the side.

Also, I believe for Pi3 the recommendation is a 2.5A supply. I have been using this one and it has been fine:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MARDJZ4/?tag=neogaf0e-20
 

Card Boy

Banned
I have a Pi 2 model B. Can it really run PS1 games?

I will install recall box on it this weekend.

Yes it can run PS1 games. Even the Pi 1 could run PS1 games. Only thing that doesn't work is multi disc switching (feature is not there) on games like FF7, 8, 9, Legend of Dragoon etc.
 

3rdman

Member
I've been quietly working on my project which is a kit I bought online...I'll post photos when it's completely done. In the meantime, I have a few questions that I hope others can answer...

1. I am using retropie and running the games off of an external hard drive. I'm presently trying to scrape them and the recommended scrapper (sselph ??) simply doesn't see them. The scraper in emulationstation works but its painfully slow and not very correct...any suggestions?

2. My PSU is supposed to supply 3 amps at 5v but I constantly get the pixel square showing an undervolt state. It generally disappears once the game is loaded but now that I am running the PS3 controller with the built-in BT, it's always on. Any recommended PSUs?

3. I'd like to run all the games at their original/native resolution...I think that means a 1:1 (PAR) ratio in Retroarch but I'm really not sure. Is there a way to permanently set this globally?
 
I've been quietly working on my project which is a kit I bought online...I'll post photos when it's completely done. In the meantime, I have a few questions that I hope others can answer...

1. I am using retropie and running the games off of an external hard drive. I'm presently trying to scrape them and the recommended scrapper (sselph ??) simply doesn't see them. The scraper in emulationstation works but its painfully slow and not very correct...any suggestions?

Just to make sure, you've tried this for the Scrape and it doesn't see the ROMS?

https://github.com/RetroPie/RetroPie-Setup/wiki/scraper
 

3rdman

Member
Just to make sure, you've tried this for the Scrape and it doesn't see the ROMS?

https://github.com/RetroPie/RetroPie-Setup/wiki/scraper

Yeah, that's right. The scraper that is run through the setup simply doesn't see the roms...I think the answer is to "symlink" the roms directory to the usb drive...I understand the scraper will work if I do that...

ln -s /media/usb0/roms /home/pi/RetroPie/roms

However, I am a completely noob on linux...would the above command work assuming that my roms in "/media/usb0/roms" ?
 

c0de

Member
Yeah, that's right. The scraper that is run through the setup simply doesn't see the roms...I think the answer is to "symlink" the roms directory to the usb drive...I understand the scraper will work if I do that...

ln -s /media/usb0/roms /home/pi/RetroPie/roms

However, I am a completely noob on linux...would the above command work assuming that my roms in "/media/usb0/roms" ?
Yes. Well, at least it will create the symlink right.
 
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