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"I need a New PC!" 2012 Thread. 22nm+28nm, Tri-Gate, and reading the OP. [Part 1]

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longdi

longdi

Banned
I would avoid gigabyte..they had problem with their bios for like forever..

asrock is fine but asus is finer imo
 
D

da_stabbah

Member
hello PC-Gaf
looking into moving my stuff into a MicroATX enclosure for the good looks.
i'm running a i5 2500K on a ASUS microATX board
i have had my eye on this LianLi case for awhile http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811112221
more info here: http://www.lian-li.com/v2/en/product/product06.php?pr_index=317&cl_index=1&sc_index=25&ss_index=63&g=f
anyone have this? or something similar from a diff. manufacturer? I currently have a LianLi mid tower full aluminium and would like to continue down that path.
would this be a better option?
http://www.lian-li.com/v2/en/product/product06.php?pr_index=582&cl_index=1&sc_index=25&ss_index=63&g=f

let me know.
thanks!
 
S

Shambles

Member
Sethos said:
Last pieces of hardware arrived, among them the single most expensive item of the entire build.

'Tis going to be hot.
Click to expand...

Yeesh I thought my 256GB M4 was crazy, now that's as big SSD.

Have most of my gear together now and build what I had last night. I'm just missing the case (690 II advanced USB3, being shipped) and GPU (waiting for the DC2 670). Sadly the system is frequently freezing so either the motherboard is bad (Gigabyte Z77 DH3 which I just bought locally) or the PSU (TPN-650 Which i bought a year ago and has been sitting on the shelf the whole time :(). I really hope it's the motherboard because it's a hell of a lot easier to return. I know the memory is good, I know my SSD is good, and 99.99% of the time it's not the CPU that's faulty. Once I get home today I'll have to start transplanting parts out of my old machine to see what the issue is. It's just so much nicer when a build 'just works' and that's also why I'm so hesitant to buy from e-tailers since RMA'ing is such a biatch.
 
S

Sulla1980

Member
longdi said:
I would avoid gigabyte..they had problem with their bios for like forever..

asrock is fine but asus is finer imo
Click to expand...

Thanks! I should have mentioned that I have a general fondness for ASUS, having had two really good boards from them already. I am a little uncertain about the reliability of ASRock, though.
 
S

Shambles

Member
Sulla1980 said:
Hey everyone,

I am having trouble picking my mobo to pair with a 3570k, so I am looking for opinions. As a note, I will be overclocking and have all necessary parts. I am just hoping to upgrade my CPU.

All three seem to have similar features, just wondering if people have personal preferences.

I honestly can't decide between these three:

The ASRock z77 Extreme4 (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813157293)

The Asus P8Z77-V LX (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131824&Tpk=asus p8z77-v lx)

or the Gigabyte GA-Z77MX - D3H (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128543).

They are all at the same price. I know that the OP has some recommendations, but I am a Canadian going for a drive to take advantage of some MicroCenter prices, so some of those boards aren't available to me.

Thanks in advance!
Click to expand...

The Extreme4 is a solid board however it retails for quite a bit more up here than in the states. NCIX has it for $180-40MIR but MIR's can be sketchy and if you're spending $180 on a motherboard than you should be comparing it to other $180 motherboards not budget boards. I just bought the D3H and it seems decent. I was thinking about the UD3H but really i -never- go multi-GPU so there's no point in me spending an extra $30 just to have the option. Asus can make some good boards but generally they are over-priced and their RMA process is an absolute nightmare to go through so I didn't even look at Asus. Otherwise I was looking at the MSI G45 or Biostar XE3. They all seemed pretty good but I ended up making my decision mostly on price and local availability. Also I am only going to do a medium amount of overclocking. All these boards will overclock largely the same on air but if you're wanting to do extreme overclocking the D3H has the weakest power regulation out of all of them. If you are water-cooling this may matter to you but chances are you'd be looking at more expensive motherboards in the first place if that was your goal.
 
M

mkenyon

Banned
Hawk269 said:
Looks good so far man...love the white memory modules...looks really nice. What fans are you using for your H100? I also see that you did not connect the fans to the water block, you going to control them with a fan controller instead? That 690 looks mighty fine as well. Evga will be releasing a little utility program so that you can change the intensity of the lighting on the 690, I think they also mentioned that you can make it pulse or stuff like that.
Click to expand...
I use Spectre Pro's for everything. After test fitting the H100, I decided to just go ahead and start the custom loop without the 690 in it. Ordered an Alphacool ST30 360mm radiator, XSPC Raystorm, Mayhem's Pastel Green concentrate, and fittings.

The H100 just doesn't give me the performance I'm looking for with 2011 cooling. The ST30 will dissipate about 200W of heat with fans in just push at 1300-1400RPM.
Slayer-33 said:
Beautiful,

16 gbs of corsair vengenace low profile ram? I just ordered 8 gigs lol
Click to expand...
If it were anything but quad channel, I would have stuck with 8 gigs too. 16 is totally overkill.
1-D_FTW said:
It doesn't really matter. If you're pushing in a lot of air with intakes, the air is coming out of the case whether you have exhaust fans or not. It's simple physics at work.
Click to expand...
It does, you *always* want positive pressure. Always always.
gate777 said:
Anyone?
Click to expand...
Why do you want a PCI-E 3.0 card? Do you know what benefits it gives you?
K' Dash said:
Guys I have the items below on my cart ready to buy, I need someone to check them for me if they are the right componentsm please:


http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002G1YPH0/?tag=neogaf0e-20
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003NWWM30/?tag=neogaf0e-20
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007MKGF82/?tag=neogaf0e-20
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005C8RTTU/?tag=neogaf0e-20
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004EBUXHQ/?tag=neogaf0e-20

Thanks in advance
Click to expand...
You want 1.5V RAM, not 1.65V. Get the stuff in the OP. I don't know much about the Z77 LX, but IIRC, the Z68 LX was not a good choice due to limited voltage and multiplier control.
 
A

Alrix

Member
Just wondering, has anybody used both the Razer Naga and the Naga Hex and can compare them for me? My naga broke and I'm wondering if I should try this new model (hex) or just get the same one I already had.
 
H

Horsemama1956

Member
gate777 said:
Anyone?
Click to expand...

The 650(and Ti) is not in the same performance/price bracket(better not be anyways) then the 7850. The 650 ti is around a 7770 in terms of expected performance, while the standard 650 will be less. If the 650 is what you really want, just get a 7770 now. Next option is the 7850 for PCIE 3.0.
 
K

K' Dash

Member
mkenyon said:
You want 1.5V RAM, not 1.65V. Get the stuff in the OP. I don't know much about the Z77 LX, but IIRC, the Z68 LX was not a good choice due to limited voltage and multiplier control.
Click to expand...

the Z77 LX is the one reomended in the OP IIRC, can you recomend me a good MoBo in the same price range please?
 
M

Mangotron

Member
Alrix said:
Just wondering, has anybody used both the Razer Naga and the Naga Hex and can compare them for me? My naga broke and I'm wondering if I should try this new model (hex) or just get the same one I already had.
Click to expand...

I haven't used both of them, but the Hex is designed for DOTA style games, and the regular Naga is just for mmos in general. The main difference between them is that the Hex has fewer buttons iirc.
 
J

JB1981

Member
If I buy the 'Excellent' build in the OP (and don't plan on overclocking) do I need to buy a heatsink or can I get away with the stock CPU cooler? And why can't I just go with the onboard sound on the mobo?
 
G

gate777

Member
Horsemama1956 said:
The 650(and Ti) is not in the same performance/price bracket(better not be anyways) then the 7850. The 650 ti is around a 7770 in terms of expected performance, while the standard 650 will be less. If the 650 is what you really want, just get a 7770 now. Next option is the 7850 for PCIE 3.0.
Click to expand...

kharma45 said:
Go for the 7850.

As for the 650 it could be a long way off if the supply manager for Overclockers is to be believed going by the date for the 660.

http://forums.overclockers.co.uk/showthread.php?p=21792525#post21792525
Click to expand...

Thanks guys, 7850 it is then. :)
 
M

mkenyon

Banned
Just so you know, PCI-E 3.0 doesn't do anything for you on the GPU front unless you're maxing out PCI-E 2.0 bandwidth. It takes 680s in SLI using x8 PCI-E 2.0 to do that. At x16 2.0, it's not even close.
 
F

Fallout-NL

Member
JB1981 said:
If I buy the 'Excellent' build in the OP (and don't plan on overclocking) do I need to buy a heatsink or can I get away with the stock CPU cooler? And why can't I just go with the onboard sound on the mobo?
Click to expand...

Onboard sound is fine. Stock coolers suck though, incredibly noisy and less efficient. So even though OC potential might not be worth it for you, the blissful silence is definitely a thing to consider.
 
M

mkenyon

Banned
JB1981 said:
If I buy the 'Excellent' build in the OP (and don't plan on overclocking) do I need to buy a heatsink or can I get away with the stock CPU cooler? And why can't I just go with the onboard sound on the mobo?
Click to expand...
You should plan on overclocking. Two values, thats it. 20-30% free linear performance.
K' Dash said:
the Z77 LX is the one reomended in the OP IIRC, can you recomend me a good MoBo in the same price range please?
Click to expand...
Taking a look, it just makes the OC a bit more difficult. The Biostar boards listed in there seem to do pretty well too, at a lower price even.
 
K

K' Dash

Member
Shit guys Im sorry for being such a needy bitch but coud somebody take a look a these, I couldnt find everything I needed on amazon, so I went to newegg:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822152185
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814102948
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820233186
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131837
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819115072
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835103065

Thanks in advance.
 
M

mkenyon

Banned
Helps a lot to type out names in the url, I know that's extra effort, but it's appreciated especially for those on mobile devices.

That being said, looks good. You're missing a PSU and a case though.
 
A

abasm

Member
mkenyon said:
Just so you know, PCI-E 3.0 doesn't do anything for you on the GPU front unless you're maxing out PCI-E 2.0 bandwidth. It takes 680s in SLI using x8 PCI-E 2.0 to do that. At x16 2.0, it's not even close.
Click to expand...

Do you think there will come a time when single GPUs will exceed the bandwidth of PCI-E 2.0? Or will it be forever relegated to CFX/SLI cards?
 
J

JB1981

Member
Fallout-NL said:
Onboard sound is fine. Stock coolers suck though, incredibly noisy and less efficient. So even though OC potential might not be worth it for you, the blissful silence is definitely a thing to consider.
Click to expand...

the heatsink part of the build is what worries me the most. it seems a lot trickier than everything else. makes me nervous. the onboard sound will deliver 5.1 audio via HDMI yes?

i also need to buy a wifi card i guess.
 
M

mkenyon

Banned
Of course, eventually.
JB1981 said:
the heatsink part of the build is what worries me the most. it seems a lot trickier than everything else. makes me nervous .
Click to expand...
Step 1: Stop worrying about breaking stuff. The PCB is strong and you can touch it, and even put enough pressure to bend the crap out of it without damaging anything.
Step 2: STOP WORRYING ABOUT BREAKING STUFF.

Once you get over that fear, it's easier than Legos. A fully watercooled build that required jigsaw work on the case, removing GPU heatsinks and replacing with water blocks as well as testing everything is easier than a complicated Lego set. Watch the videos in the OP, it's a piece of cake.
Ace 8095 said:
Just got a job offer and I'm celebrating by building a new PC. I'm going with the Asus GTX 670. I will be overclocking and I'm still not sure if I should by the 2500k or the 3570k. I know some people on the forum have had problems overclocking the 3570k, so what is the consensus?
Click to expand...
2500K.
 
A

Ace 8095

Member
Just got a job offer and I'm celebrating by building a new PC. I'm going with the Asus GTX 670. I will be overclocking and I'm still not sure if I should by the 2500k or the 3570k. I know some people on the forum have had problems overclocking the 3570k, so what is the consensus?
 
K

K' Dash

Member
mkenyon said:
Helps a lot to type out names in the url, I know that's extra effort, but it's appreciated especially for those on mobile devices.

That being said, looks good. You're missing a PSU and a case though.
Click to expand...

Yeah, I'm going to buy that here in costa rica, I'm importing cause those items cost $1300 here, not counting the case and PSU.

Thank you for your help!
 
F

Fallout-NL

Member
JB1981 said:
the heatsink part of the build is what worries me the most. it seems a lot trickier than everything else. makes me nervous. the onboard sound will deliver 5.1 audio via HDMI yes?
Click to expand...

Double check the board's specs, but that's extremely likely, yes.

mkenyon said:
Step 1: Stop worrying about breaking stuff. The PCB is strong and you can touch it, and even put enough pressure to bend the crap out of it without damaging anything.
Step 2: STOP WORRYING ABOUT BREAKING STUFF.

Once you get over that fear, it's easier than Legos. A fully watercooled build that required jigsaw work on the case, removing GPU heatsinks and replacing with water blocks as well as testing everything is easier than a complicated Lego set. Watch the videos in the OP, it's a piece of cake.
Click to expand...

Yeah, I used to hate mounting the heatsink for these exact reasons. But the board can take a little abuse, it's o.k.
 
1

1-D_FTW

Member
JB1981 said:
the heatsink part of the build is what worries me the most. it seems a lot trickier than everything else. makes me nervous. the onboard sound will deliver 5.1 audio via HDMI yes?

i also need to buy a wifi card i guess.
Click to expand...

Are you talking about the CoolerMaster 212? Aside from instructions that seem overly complicated, it's the easiest heat sink I've ever used. I wish my past heatsinks could have been easily screwed to the motherboard.
 
S

Sethos

Banned
This is what the final result looks like. Yes, I know it isn't exactly a beaut and yes I know the cable management could be a lot better ( Tons of cables ) but I'm tired and this will do :p But man, this entire build has been nothing but a headache because of one single piece of kit: The Phanteks. Every single snag I've hit has been due to that or the fans attached. First it was the fan clips hitting the GPU and now I've been fighting with extreme noise because the fans included needs to be reduced by QSA cables.

iby3rFvfZAubRd.png


Now it's really quiet except its natural low level hum seems to 'swing', like increase and decrease in noise in slow waves. Nothing major but I have that insane dog hearing and it's a bit annoying. Tried stopping every single fan, pressing my hand against metal to stop any vibrations, tried holding the HDDs but it persists ... Not sure why it does it.

Next stop is overclocking / undervolting ... Hate that part.
 
M

mkenyon

Banned
Sethos, how did you get all of that mounted without a motherboard? Crazy.

:p

Sounds like there's a fan that is off balance, that's what'll cause the wave.
 
L

Ledsen

Member
FUCK

So I told you guys about how my computer started BSOD:ing and then refused to enter Windows, shortly after I (luckily) ordered a SSD and made backups of all my stuff. I thought it was my ancient 2005 HDD that failed, Occam's Razor and all that. But now... just got my new SSD and installed Windows, had strange problems and got a couple of BSODs, was like SHIT...


...long story short, I ran memtest and one of my sticks is ERRORERRORERRORERRORERRORERRORERRORERRORERRORERROR ad infinitum. The other one checks out fine and has no errors. Of course I've got one of those fancy 8 GB kits with two sticks, so I'll probably have to send in both stick and thus being unable to use my comp for probably the whole of next week...

FUCK :(
 
N

NoRéN

Member
Ledsen said:
FUCK

So I told you guys about how my computer started BSOD:ing and then refused to enter Windows, shortly after I (luckily) ordered a SSD and made backups of all my stuff. I thought it was my ancient 2005 HDD that failed, Occam's Razor and all that. But now... just got my new SSD and installed Windows, had strange problems and got a couple of BSODs, was like SHIT...


...long story short, I ran memtest and one of my sticks is ERRORERRORERRORERRORERRORERRORERRORERRORERRORERROR ad infinitum. The other one checks out fine and has no errors. Of course I've got one of those fancy 8 GB kits with two sticks, so I'll probably have to send in both stick and thus being unable to use my comp for probably the whole of next week...

FUCK :(
Click to expand...

Where did you buy the ram? I'm sure if you explain that they will send you a replacement set and you can wait til it arrives to send in the defectives.
 
W

Whooter

Member
I realize that not everyone is made of money (I'm certainly not), but why not pick up another 8GB kit locally somewhere for what, $50? RMA the original sticks, and then re-sell either the RMA replacements or the ones you used in the interim?
 
S

Sethos

Banned
Wow, found my noise culprit - It was the HDDs. I took two x 750GBs from my old build as storage and they apparently just make a massive racket in this case. Doesn't sound like they're going bad or anything, just the Cosmos II's 'easy install' HDD system has piss poor vibration management. It's actually vibrating the entire case slightly at regular intervals. Moved them up from the bays below to the top ones and it's reduced ever so slightly but not enough ... Think I'll dump what's on them to my new storage drive and ditch them.

I welcome an SSD future.
 
L

Ledsen

Member
NoRéN;37778547 said:
Where did you buy the ram? I'm sure if you explain that they will send you a replacement set and you can wait til it arrives to send in the defectives.
Click to expand...

At inet.se, Swedish online retailer. I e-mailed support about it, let's see what they say...

Whooter said:
I realize that not everyone is made of money (I'm certainly not), but why not pick up another 8GB kit locally somewhere for what, $50? RMA the original sticks, and then re-sell either the RMA replacements or the ones you used in the interim?
Click to expand...

There aren't really any shops that sell computer parts around here (small 7000 inhabitants town), I'd have to go about 1 hour by car to get to a bigger town. Not worth it, and I don't want the hassle of having to re-sell them.
 
G

Gritesh

Member
Man am I mad I bought a 7950 during the most recent round of price drops I didn't think the 670 would blow the doors off the 7950 for 50 bucks more.
 
Q

Quadrophenic

Member
I recently came into some money so I have decided to spend a bit and finally update my computer (something i've been telling myself I would for the past 2 years lol)...I am getting pretty close to pulling the trigger on this build, but wanted to run it by you guys first to make sure I didn't make any grevious errors in picking the parts. Its mostly built using the recommendations in the OP:

CPU: Intel Core i5-3570K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler
Motherboard: Asus P8Z77-V ATX LGA1155 Motherboard
Memory: Corsair Vengeance 16GB (4 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory
Hard Drive: Samsung 830 Series 128GB 2.5" Solid State Disk
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 680 2GB Video Card
Case: Fractal Design Define R3 Black Pearl ATX Mid Tower Case
Power Supply: Corsair 750W ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 7 Professional SP1 (64-bit)

http://pcpartpicker.com/p/7SBs

I have a current HDD i'll use for storage in conjunction with the SSD listed above.
 
G

Gritesh

Member
Sethos said:
Look on the bright side, you can OC the crap out of that 7950
Click to expand...
Yeah I'm not running it at stock speeds at all but still..interesting to see what kind of oc'ing the 670 is capable of


In the end I still have a card that can dominate most games with no issues do its not like I will notice a difference plus I got the higher VRAM



Gotta take what wins I can get
 
M

mkenyon

Banned
Quadrophenic said:
I recently came into some money so I have decided to spend a bit and finally update my computer (something i've been telling myself I would for the past 2 years lol)...I am getting pretty close to pulling the trigger on this build, but wanted to run it by you guys first to make sure I didn't make any grevious errors in picking the parts. Its mostly built using the recommendations in the OP:

CPU: Intel Core i5-3570K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler
Motherboard: Asus P8Z77-V ATX LGA1155 Motherboard
Memory: Corsair Vengeance 16GB (4 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory
Hard Drive: Samsung 830 Series 128GB 2.5" Solid State Disk
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 680 2GB Video Card
Case: Fractal Design Define R3 Black Pearl ATX Mid Tower Case
Power Supply: Corsair 750W ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 7 Professional SP1 (64-bit)

http://pcpartpicker.com/p/7SBs

I have a current HDD i'll use for storage in conjunction with the SSD listed above.
Click to expand...
Drop RAM to 8GB, get a 670 instead of the 680, reduce PSU to 650W version.
 
M

mkenyon

Banned
550W, but I dont think Corsair has a 550W version.

Both the (seasonic) X650 and the (corsair) AX650 can be found on sale for under $100 often.
 
S

Sulla1980

Member
Shambles said:
Solid Advice
Click to expand...

Thanks! I wasn't really clear, but I am spending a few days in the states so I was planning on picking up some parts at Micro Center while across the border. Anyway, thanks for your advice. I am just cooling the CPU with a hyper 212 and not really looking for extreme overclocks (or SLI).

Thanks again.
 
Q

Quadrophenic

Member
mkenyon said:
Drop RAM to 8GB, get a 670 instead of the 680, reduce PSU to 650W version.
Click to expand...

Sounds good, I figured I was overdoing it but I was trying to compensate for my inherit stinginess lol.

Here's the parts I swapped out as per your suggestions:

EVGA GeForce GTX 670 2GB Video Card
Corsair Vengeance 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory
Corsair 650W ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply
http://pcpartpicker.com/p/85q9

I noticed the price difference between the 650 and 750 was only like $10, is there any value in getting the 750 for future proofing or anything?
 
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