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2 wheel GAF UNITE!

Bike is in getting a 12K service today and has it's first MOT coming up Saturday week.

Some of the cruiser guys where complaining there where bumps so I went for fresher paved stuff. Normally I would be riding on gravel roads or the woods. :p
I'm all for rough terrain if you're seeking it, but our regular roads are a mess.

I know my opinion won't be real popular, but if you're going for a sport bike as a first bike I would recommend something like the Ninja 650r or Suzuki SV650. Bikes like that are extremely manageable and have enough power not to want to upgrade after your first season of riding.

Just stay away from inline 4 sport bikes, stick with the twins.

Not the big twins though.
My first and current bike is a 600 and I've found it fine. People suggested I'd be best getting something smaller as my only previous experience was taking my test on the tutors 125.

I don't think the jump was big at all. My friend has the same bike but it's restricted from 90hp to 33hp because he's still in his two year restriction period. Honestly, I felt sorry for him when I was riding it.
 
I don't think the jump was big at all. My friend has the same bike but it's restricted from 90hp to 33hp because he's still in his two year restriction period. Honestly, I felt sorry for him when I was riding it.

They restrict it over there? Wow, that never happens here. Hell, there's been people here who buy a 600 or 1000 here for their first bike and end up wrecking it within the first week. Some don't even have a license.

I know my opinion won't be real popular, but if you're going for a sport bike as a first bike I would recommend something like the Ninja 650r or Suzuki SV650. Bikes like that are extremely manageable and have enough power not to want to upgrade after your first season of riding.

Just stay away from inline 4 sport bikes, stick with the twins.

Not the big twins though.

I can agree with this, I started off on the Ninja 650 and I know a few others that started on the SV650's. Great bikes that'll last you longer than a 250. Plus, they were way more comfy than a 600 or 1000.
 

Flo_Evans

Member
Bike is in getting a 12K service today and has it's first MOT coming up Saturday week.

I'm all for rough terrain if you're seeking it, but our regular roads are a mess.

My first and current bike is a 600 and I've found it fine. People suggested I'd be best getting something smaller as my only previous experience was taking my test on the tutors 125.

I don't think the jump was big at all. My friend has the same bike but it's restricted from 90hp to 33hp because he's still in his two year restriction period. Honestly, I felt sorry for him when I was riding it.

ouch lol that would piss me off so bad.
 
They restrict it over there? Wow, that never happens here. Hell, there's been people here who buy a 600 or 1000 here for their first bike and end up wrecking it within the first week. Some don't even have a license.



I can agree with this, I started off on the Ninja 650 and I know a few others that started on the SV650's. Great bikes that'll last you longer than a 250. Plus, they were way more comfy than a 600 or 1000.

ouch lol that would piss me off so bad.
The laws in the UK always seemed a bit weird to me. In the UK you can ride a 125cc bike on the roads so long as you have a provisional (learners) licence, insurance and CBT (compulsory basic training). CBT to my knowledge (NI didn't have it until 2011, after I had passed my test, and now that we do have it I think it's different to the mainland) is like a day course to teach you the fundamentals. Basically once you have that, you can drive on the roads for as long as you like (displaying learner plates) having next to no experience or ever having a lesson with an instructor. By contrast, you can only drive a car with your provisional licence and an approved driving instructor or with somebody who is over 21 and has held a full driving licence for 3 years (I think) present at all times.

Once you pass your test you are restricted to a 125cc bike or a bigger bike of any size restricted to 33bhp for 2 years. I'm not sure about the mainland, but in NI you are required to display restricted plates for 1 year and cannot ride over 45mph. The second year does not require the restricted plate or the 45mph limit but the bike remains restricted. As for cars, once you pass your driving test, you are only restricted and must display restricted plates for 1 year. You can only drive at a maximum of 45mph but are free to drive whatever car you want, no matter the engine size or power.

In the mainland (and as of 2013 in NI). There is direct access. This allows people to complete their test on a bigger bike and go unrestricted from the day they pass their test. Now I'm not exactly sure how it works because we don't have it yet, but I think to do direct access you must be 21 and have had 2 or 3 years to experience on smaller machines, or over 24 to take it with no previous experience.

So as it goes, my friend who I would go out riding with has just passed his test about 5 months ago, and his FZ6 is restricted to 33bhp (the saddest little motorcycle). I on the other hand got my bike licence in 2009 and so by the time I bought my bike (also an FZ6), I was out of the 2 year restriction period and could ride normally.

The law seems daft to me though. In NI they trust people to ride a bike no real experience and unaccompanied, but car learners must be accompanied. However, pass your test and all of a sudden the people who were shown the most trust are now much more restricted to what they can do and ride and for twice the length of time. Seems odd really.

It's all being changed in 2013 though. Soon it will be the same as car learners and bike learners will require an instructor at all times.

Red tape...

Edit: to give you an idea, these are the plates I was talking about that must be displayed on both cars and motorcycles...

Volkswagen-Phaeton-with-L-Plates-photo-3-640x480.jpg


lplatewsi.jpg


stephen_carroll_forensic_pictures_001.jpg
 

iamblades

Member
The laws in the UK always seemed a bit weird to me. In the UK you can ride a 125cc bike on the roads so long as you have a provisional (learners) licence, insurance and CBT (compulsory basic training). CBT to my knowledge (NI didn't have it until 2011, after I had passed my test, and now that we do have it I think it's different to the mainland) is like a day course to teach you the fundamentals. Basically once you have that, you can drive on the roads for as long as you like (displaying learner plates) having next to no experience or ever having a lesson with an instructor. By contrast, you can only drive a car with your provisional licence and an approved driving instructor or with somebody who is over 21 and has held a full driving licence for 3 years (I think) present at all times.

Once you pass your test you are restricted to a 125cc bike or a bigger bike of any size restricted to 33bhp for 2 years. I'm not sure about the mainland, but in NI you are required to display restricted plates for 1 year and cannot ride over 45mph. The second year does not require the restricted plate or the 45mph limit but the bike remains restricted. As for cars, once you pass your driving test, you are only restricted and must display restricted plates for 1 year. You can only drive at a maximum of 45mph but are free to drive whatever car you want, no matter the engine size or power.

In the mainland (and as of 2013 in NI). There is direct access. This allows people to complete their test on a bigger bike and go unrestricted from the day they pass their test. Now I'm not exactly sure how it works because we don't have it yet, but I think to do direct access you must be 21 and have had 2 or 3 years to experience on smaller machines, or over 24 to take it with no previous experience.

So as it goes, my friend who I would go out riding with has just passed his test about 5 months ago, and his FZ6 is restricted to 33bhp (the saddest little motorcycle). I on the other hand got my bike licence in 2009 and so by the time I bought my bike (also an FZ6), I was out of the 2 year restriction period and could ride normally.

The law seems daft to me though. In NI they trust people to ride a bike no real experience and unaccompanied, but car learners must be accompanied. However, pass your test and all of a sudden the people who were shown the most trust are now much more restricted to what they can do and ride and for twice the length of time. Seems odd really.

It's all being changed in 2013 though. Soon it will be the same as car learners and bike learners will require an instructor at all times.

Red tape...

Edit: to give you an idea, these are the plates I was talking about that must be displayed on both cars and motorcycles...

How? Are they going to mandate sidecars or something?

Also how does the HP limiting work? Seems like messing with the engine mapping to such a degree can't be good for it..
 
How? Are they going to mandate sidecars or something?

Also how does the HP limiting work? Seems like messing with the engine mapping to such a degree can't be good for it..
The instructor has to be present on his bike.

For example, when I was learning (had I of owned my own 125) I could ride up to my instructors place of work or whatever and then he would take you out and follow you giving you instructions via the radio headset. He would make sure you were doing the relevant checks, sticking to the speed limits, riding correctly etc. All the things the test examiner will look for when he follows you on your test. But once the lesson was over I could just ride on home on my own. Effectively, most of your riding experience (for people who owned bikes) was gained on their own, the instructor only helped tweak it. I didn't have a bike though so I had to use one of the instructors.

Because of this, lots of people would get a bike, insure it, put L plates up and never do their test. They would just ride around forever on 125's (which means lots of people on the road with no formal training, which any other vehicle requires). As of next year, this will be illegal. You will only be allowed on the road when accompanied by the instructor on his bike.

I wonder this too. Is it a ECU thing? What if you buy a carbureted bike?
As for this, it's not the ECU thing. It's a physical kit, as seen here, manufacturers supply them. My understanding is that it stops the throttle opening all the way up. Not the actually throttle handle you turn, it still has full range of motion, but inside the cable or whatever is stopped going all the way. I watched one get fitted but I'm not particularly mechanically minded.

Edit: So comparing my friends FZ to mine. When his hits about 4000 revs the power sort of drops off to an extent. It's noticeably sluggish at that point. Where as my own just keeps the power going as normal. As you can imagine this means when we take off it's not long before we reach a point where I start pulling away from him quite easily. He'll still get plenty of speed, just takes him longer to get there. It will be like a new bike to him when he get's the damn thing off.

Oh and the worst bit about all this legislation. If you pass your test in December 2012 for arguments sake you're restricted for two years no matter what. If you wait to January 2013 and then take the direct access you can ride unrestricted off the bat, and there is no option for fully licensed riders still in their restriction period to re-sit the test and go the direct access route. So you can imagine how frustrating it is for some people (my friend included) finding out he'll be restricted whilst a bunch of less experienced guys will come along soon and not be.

2nd edit: to add further to the ridiculousness, your bike is never actually tested by government officials or the police. So even though by law you need to have the restrictor and a certificate to say it's fitted, nobody would ever know otherwise. I guess the main reason is insurance, if the vehicle was crashed they would perhaps check and if the bike wasn't restricted then the insurance would be void.

We have yearly vehicle checks after the 3rd and 4th year from first registration in GB and NI respectively (MOT test). To make sure vehicles are road worthy. The mechanics there could technically check it, but they don't, and couldn't if it was a new bike anyway.
 
As for this, it's not the ECU thing. It's a physical kit, as seen here, manufacturers supply them. My understanding is that it stops the throttle opening all the way up. Not the actually throttle handle you turn, it still has full range of motion, but inside the cable or whatever is stopped going all the way. I watched one get fitted but I'm not particularly mechanically minded.

Pic won't load since I'm at work =[ I doubt it would be hard to remove though if he ever wanted to, not that I'm saying he should break the law or anything..

My little Ninja 650 would have been restricted to half its power, and it felt too slow for me already after a few months. I just can't imagine what that would be like lol.

Though I admit, it would probably stop a lot of new riders from going insane speeds they can't control.
 

Dougald

Member
Just got back from my 2-week, 2500-mile tour of France with my friend on our Bonnevilles. We did an anti-clockwise loop, stopping off in Normandy, Dordogne, Carcassonne, the Pyrénées, Monaco and the Alps. Our strategy was, ride in the general direction of where we were going, then follow signs to campsites once we got tired. We stayed everywhere from major campsites with restaurants, to tiny pitches next to mountain lakes.

What I learnt:

  • Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance is essential reading for any biker
  • The French may have a reputation for bad driving, but they are surprisingly coerteous to bikers. I had only one instance of someone not seeing me in 2500 miles.
  • They also all *love* the Bonnevilles. Everyone kept coming up to us and asking about the bikes, especially all the older guys who remember having British Bikes in their youth
  • If you're serious about protective gear, Monaco in August is almost unbearable!
  • Bring tools for when British Engineering inevitably lets you down (okay, it was my fault, but let's not go into that)
  • Almost every Autoroute in France (a necessary evil) is a toll road. Bring a credit card with no international fees, and stow it in your tankbag to prevent fumbling at the tollbooths.
  • Don't take a sat-nav, we found our best biking roads by getting lost, getting our the map, and finding the twistiest-looking way to our destination

Having done it, I'd say a long tour is essential experience for any biker.. just remember to get headset comms or work on your hand signals before you leave! I've always loved the social aspect of being a biker, we met so many French (and Dutch, and German, etc..), just because we were all on motorcycles.

 
Just got back from my 2-week, 2500-mile tour of France with my friend on our Bonnevilles. We did an anti-clockwise loop, stopping off in Normandy, Dordogne, Carcassonne, the Pyrénées, Monaco and the Alps. Our strategy was, ride in the general direction of where we were going, then follow signs to campsites once we got tired. We stayed everywhere from major campsites with restaurants, to tiny pitches next to mountain lakes.

What I learnt:

  • Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance is essential reading for any biker
  • The French may have a reputation for bad driving, but they are surprisingly coerteous to bikers. I had only one instance of someone not seeing me in 2500 miles.
  • They also all *love* the Bonnevilles. Everyone kept coming up to us and asking about the bikes, especially all the older guys who remember having British Bikes in their youth
  • If you're serious about protective gear, Monaco in August is almost unbearable!
  • Bring tools for when British Engineering inevitably lets you down (okay, it was my fault, but let's not go into that)
  • Almost every Autoroute in France (a necessary evil) is a toll road. Bring a credit card with no international fees, and stow it in your tankbag to prevent fumbling at the tollbooths.
  • Don't take a sat-nav, we found our best biking roads by getting lost, getting our the map, and finding the twistiest-looking way to our destination

Having done it, I'd say a long tour is essential experience for any biker.. just remember to get headset comms or work on your hand signals before you leave! I've always loved the social aspect of being a biker, we met so many French (and Dutch, and German, etc..), just because we were all on motorcycles.
Sounds amazing. I would love to do something like this. If you don't mind me asking, how much money did you spend?
 

Dougald

Member
Sounds amazing. I would love to do something like this. If you don't mind me asking, how much money did you spend?


I haven't had the credit card bill yet!

I estimate £200-300 each on fuel, another £100 on toll roads and £100 on camping (french municipal campsites cost us as little as 10 Euros a night for both). Then just food... It all sounds expensive but I saved £1000 for the trip so it should come well under budget, its very cheap staying at municipal campsites or youth hostels.
 
I haven't had the credit card bill yet!

I estimate £200-300 each on fuel, another £100 on toll roads and £100 on camping (french municipal campsites cost us as little as 10 Euros a night for both). Then just food... It all sounds expensive but I saved £1000 for the trip so it should come well under budget, its very cheap staying at municipal campsites or youth hostels.
Nice one. I only have one other friend who rides but another who recently got interested. He really likes classic bikes like the Bonneville. He said if he got one he'd love to go touring but wasn't sure how a Bonneville would hold up (compared to actual tourers etc). But you've done it, so must be okay.
 

Dougald

Member
Nice one. I only have one other friend who rides but another who recently got interested. He really likes classic bikes like the Bonneville. He said if he got one he'd love to go touring but wasn't sure how a Bonneville would hold up (compared to actual tourers etc). But you've done it, so must be okay.

Yeah, she held up fine. I have a problem with the seat on long journeys (my friend never did though), so the only "adjustment" I made was to buy an airhawk to literally save my ass. For luggage all I did was get some small panniers, attach a large rollbag to the pillion seat, and a small tankbag. The topbox you see in the picture was just for my helmet and shoes.

The bike did "break down" once, but it was my own fault, I'd knocked the cable that attaches to the coil out with my tankbag straps at a fill-up. Luckily a passing biker who had owned Triumphs for years stopped by and figured it out in about 10 seconds! The only other problem we had was I embarassingly dropped the bike in a gravel car park when I was trying to maneuver it past a bunch of fiats.. the engine wasn't even on. Only damage done was ruining part of my brake lever (which I already got a replacement for), but that didn't stop my friend laughing at me for the rest of the trip.

If he tours France in a Bonneville, you might get very jealous, they all loved it over there. We spent about 20 minutes talking to this old 92-year old Frenchman who was telling us all about how he used to take all the village girls out on his BSA when he was our age.
 
An hour before I go to get my bike the yearly inspection for the DMV the chain keeps popping off, and it looks like a link is bad.
I already know what chain and rear sprocket I need, should I replace the front Sprocket too? It's never given me any problems.
Also do I need a dremel to get the chain off? Because I dont have one.
 

iamblades

Member
An hour before I go to get my bike the yearly inspection for the DMV the chain keeps popping off, and it looks like a link is bad.
I already know what chain and rear sprocket I need, should I replace the front Sprocket too? It's never given me any problems.
Also do I need a dremel to get the chain off? Because I dont have one.

Check the front chainring for wear, if it looks in reasonable shape, no reason you should have to replace it. If there is significant rounding on the teeth or the chain has any amount of play while it's on the chainring You might as well replace it while you're there.

I don't see why you should need a dremel.
 
Check the front chainring for wear, if it looks in reasonable shape, no reason you should have to replace it. If there is significant rounding on the teeth or the chain has any amount of play while it's on the chainring.

I don't see why you should need a dremel.

A dremel's cheaper than the chain breaker
 

Watevaman

Member
I'm actually surprised with how many 250/650s I've seen around here. I think a lot of people are realizing that beginner bikes are exactly what they mean.
 

Scarecrow

Member
In your opinion, what are some of the maintenance and upkeep tasks one can do for a cruiser bike with little mechanical knowledge? Stuff I could do instead of going to a shop for it?
 

iamblades

Member
In your opinion, what are some of the maintenance and upkeep tasks one can do for a cruiser bike with little mechanical knowledge? Stuff I could do instead of going to a shop for it?

Generally fluids, chain lube, filters etc. can be done by anyone fairly easily. If you have a carbeureted bike then carb adjustments are something you should learn as well, not too complicated. Changing chains/brake pads etc. are the next step up, not hard, but you want to be sure you can do it right, if you don't feel comfortable, take it to the shop, you don't want those failing while you're on the road.

Clutch replacements are the next step up, followed by anything internal to the motor and anything involved with the electronics(which shouldn't really require maintenance). These you need to know what you are doing and have a decent set of tools.

The great thing about motorcycles is that you can actually do a lot of work on them yourself, not like modern cars where everything is obfuscated and super complicated.
 
^I'd say basic oil change and chain lube are the biggest two. You should look at your manual for when other maintenance are needed such as spark plugs, coolant flush, etc.

Edit: Beaten
 

Scarecrow

Member
Thanks. I'm trying to learn more about my bike I've had for years to avoid the Best Buy 'we'll update you're firmware for $50' effect in the future.
 
Thanks. I'm trying to learn more about my bike I've had for years to avoid the Best Buy 'we'll update you're firmware for $50' effect in the future.

I'm sure there's plenty of guides around to help you, just gotta search around. The first time is always the most difficult, it's a piece of cake the more you do it.
 

Tater Tot

"My God... it's full of Starch!"
Just purchased my first motorcycle today. Harley Iron 883. I am going to buy a saddlebag and and Vince and Hines black.

UL5Fo.jpg


ujXxs.jpg
 

C.Dark.DN

Banned
I really want a dirtbike after selling my cruiser a year ago but I want it to be street legal.

Would something like the honda crf230l be good since it's street legal?

I want to be able to drop it and abuse it.
 

TCRS

Banned
Just purchased my first motorcycle today. Harley Iron 883. I am going to buy a saddlebag and and Vince and Hines black.

http://i.imgur.com/UL5Fo.jpg[IMG]

[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/ujXxs.jpg[IMG][/QUOTE]

Sweet. I really like the 883 Roadster, but I've heard it's discontinued.. :/
 

Watevaman

Member
Hey guys, I posted this over on the GSTwins forum, but I'm posting it here in hopes maybe some of you guys can help me.

Yes, yes, yes, after 9 months of sitting in my garage, the GS ran for the first time today. However, she ran for ~20 seconds because of an apparent lean condition, which is what I want to talk to you guys about.

Refresher: My bike had issues about two months after getting it last October. Gas got into the oil and eventually caused it to blow through the breather tube at the top (which luckily wasn't connected to anything because of my lunchbox). In order to change the oil filter, I removed the exhaust due to not knowing I could simply bend it down a bit to get to the filter cover. In the process, I broke two exhaust bolts on the left hand side.

What I've done since then:
-Took the top end apart, drilled out the bolts, retapped the holes.
-Replaced pretty much all top end gaskets (head, valve cover, breather cover)
-Replaced the tires (oil all over the rear plus they were ~10 years old according to the side)
-Adjusted the floats, which apparently are wrong even now
-Replaced the battery with a Scorpion sealed

What I would like help with:

-The carbs are still letting gas past, despite adjusting the float. I tried the hose method to test the heights this afternoon and the left side was ok, right side was above the gasket. Do I lower or raise the float to get this down? If anyone with a V&H full system + K&N Lunchbox can share their float heights with a 150 main (don't know pilot size), I'd love you.

-The bike shot up to ~4,000 rpm when I started it, no choke, no throttle, idle screw backed out. I'm assuming it's a lean condition, but with the heights changed and one seemingly getting too much gas, how is it lean?

-There seems to be a light smoke coming from the exhaust headers where they meet the engine. It was very light and I couldn't pinpoint if it was just left/right. I also didn't let it run more than 20 seconds so I don't know if it was burning something off. The exhaust has new gaskets I installed when I reinstalled the top end, but I couldn't find a torque so I just hand tightened them.


I think that's it, thanks in advance. I'm just so damn happy right now that it's running again.
 
my bike got a defect notice for having a HID headlight.
haven't been able to ride it for a month now.
I start going a bit nuts when I'm not able to crack the throttle wide open.

Sucks. Do you have to pass an inspection?

Leave HID hardware in tact, put standard bulb in, pass it...hook HID back up. If you're running a temperature way far from a conventional one for a more vivid color consider a more neutral temperature bulb, maybe. I ran 8000K in my 07 GSX-R750 when I had it and now run dual 8000K in my R1. It might be your state or country is picky.
 

Sarcasm

Member
I try as much to avoid the paint and the steel plates on ground, especially when its raining..but man when you have to - yea kinda tense up. I can feel the bike slip but with enough momentum I am (usually fine).


But man...lol
 
I try as much to avoid the paint and the steel plates on ground, especially when its raining..but man when you have to - yea kinda tense up. I can feel the bike slip but with enough momentum I am (usually fine).


But man...lol

I got caught in the rain last ride and the rear hydroplaned a bit at around 65mph. Butt clenching times. I was probably accelerating a little too fast. :lol
 
I've been toying with the idea of picking up a Honda CBR125R as my first bike. They are fairly cheap used (~$1800 Canadian), and the insurance is cheap ($30/month). It also has fuel injection which is nice.

It's the bike I used to do my safety course, and I quite liked it. I know it doesn't have much power (13hp) but I won't be doing any highway riding.

Thoughts of using this for my first year? I already have all my gear and license. Thanks.
 

Dougald

Member
I've been toying with the idea of picking up a Honda CBR125R as my first bike. They are fairly cheap used (~$1800 Canadian), and the insurance is cheap ($30/month). It also has fuel injection which is nice.

It's the bike I used to do my safety course, and I quite liked it. I know it doesn't have much power (13hp) but I won't be doing any highway riding.

Thoughts of using this for my first year? I already have all my gear and license. Thanks.


If you like it, I say go for it. I know a guy who recently traded up from a TZR125 to an R6, and sometimes even he misses the little 125..
 
I've been toying with the idea of picking up a Honda CBR125R as my first bike. They are fairly cheap used (~$1800 Canadian), and the insurance is cheap ($30/month). It also has fuel injection which is nice.

It's the bike I used to do my safety course, and I quite liked it. I know it doesn't have much power (13hp) but I won't be doing any highway riding.

Thoughts of using this for my first year? I already have all my gear and license. Thanks.

New or used? Are you looking to jump up to a 600 later?
 

Flo_Evans

Member
I really want a dirtbike after selling my cruiser a year ago but I want it to be street legal.

Would something like the honda crf230l be good since it's street legal?

I want to be able to drop it and abuse it.

How tall are you and how much do you weigh?

XR650 might be a better choice depending on how dirt bike vs. street riding you want to do. While it is possible, you are not going to want to travel long distances on the road on a 230.

Personally I am a slightly chubby 6ft guy, pushing 250lbs all geared up. My brothers Husky TE449 is just about perfect. http://www.husqvarna-motorcycles.com/en/motorcycles/product/TE449

Kind of depends on what kind of riding you plan on doing though, are you going to be doing single track in the woods, throwing the bike in the pickup to get there? get a smaller bike. Are you going to be touring around maintained gravel roads, riding 50 miles of highway to get there? go bigger.
 
Used. 600? Maybe eventually, but I'd be fine going to a 250 or maybe 400 afterwards.

I kind of like the whole miata philosophy--I'd rather drive a slow vehicle fast than a fast vehicle slow. At least initially. :p

I hear ya, that's how I started too. I would just say get a used ninja 250 and resell it for pretty much what you bought it for when you're ready to move up. You could move onto a SV650/Ninja 650 and see how that suits you before deciding to go onto a 600.
 

ravien56

Member
How do you guys feel about purchasing used bikes? I purchased a new ninja400 as a starter bike and do love it but I'm getting a little bored of it and want something with more power. I'm currently looking at a Daytona 675 but they cost new around $13000, this isn't including the taxes or various charges. I could purchase it from a re seller for about 10k with a few thousand kilometers on it. I'm not too sure if I want to purchase a bike this high end used. What do you guys think?
 

Watevaman

Member
I was kinda put off buying used because of my GS500 and its problems, but now I know what to look for on a used bike so I'm sure I'll buy my next bike used and will continue until I have a steady career.
 
How do you guys feel about purchasing used bikes? I purchased a new ninja400 as a starter bike and do love it but I'm getting a little bored of it and want something with more power. I'm currently looking at a Daytona 675 but they cost new around $13000, this isn't including the taxes or various charges. I could purchase it from a re seller for about 10k with a few thousand kilometers on it. I'm not too sure if I want to purchase a bike this high end used. What do you guys think?

I've bought 1 new and 3 used. I'm going to stick with buying used, new feels like a big waste of money. Just make sure you know what to look for and be sure to test ride it. If you aren't sure, bring it to a shop or bring a friend along who knows how to check.
 
How do you guys feel about purchasing used bikes? I purchased a new ninja400 as a starter bike and do love it but I'm getting a little bored of it and want something with more power. I'm currently looking at a Daytona 675 but they cost new around $13000, this isn't including the taxes or various charges. I could purchase it from a re seller for about 10k with a few thousand kilometers on it. I'm not too sure if I want to purchase a bike this high end used. What do you guys think?

I have no problem doing it, assuming I get to fully inspect it and test ride it. I've bought 3 bikes, my first 2 were used, and I test rode them both before buying.
 
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