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Automotive Discussion Thread | OT3 | Playing with our sticks while petting Jaguars!

AlphaSnake

...and that, kids, was the first time I sucked a dick for crack
Hey how do you guys know so much about cars? How do you ride so many of them? Do you constantly trade? Are you guys rich?

Im new to cars :(

I had to buy one and am only now getting to know names and models more intimately.

Childhood, magazines, videogames, internet, test drives, ownership, car clubs, car forums, etc.
 

SliChillax

Member
Anybody here have experience with Jaguar F Types? My dad just ordered a brand new R Coupe and I wanna known if there is a break in procedure and what are the essential things to know. I'm excited because knowing my dad he'll never use the car and I'll get to drive it most of the time :p
 

AlphaSnake

...and that, kids, was the first time I sucked a dick for crack
Anybody here have experience with Jaguar F Types? My dad just ordered a brand new R Coupe and I wanna known if there is a break in procedure and what are the essential things to know. I'm excited because knowing my dad he'll never use the car and I'll get to drive it most of the time :p

Break in process is in the manual. Take it easy for the first 1200 miles. And gradually drive it harder from 1200-2000 miles.

This vehicle is built using high-precision manufacturing methods, but the moving parts of the engine must still bed-in relative to one another. The process occurs mainly in the first 3000 km (2000 miles) of operation.

During this Running-in period of 3000 km (2 000 miles) you should:
• Avoid frequent cold starts followed by short-distance driving.
• Preferably take longer trips.
• Do not use full throttle during starts and normal driving.
• Avoid continuous operation at high engine speed and abrupt stops.
• Do not participate in track days, sports driving schools, or similar. In addition, specifically up to 2000 km (1200 miles):
• Drive at varying engine and road speeds, but do not exceed an engine speed of 4500rpm (revolutions per minute) and a road speed of 170 km/h (105 mph).

From 2000 km (1200 miles) to 3000 km (2000 miles):
• Engine and road speeds can be increased gradually.
• Engine speeds in excess of 5 000 rpm should only be used briefly e.g., when overtaking.At all times, not just during the Running-in period:
• Do not exceed 4 000 rpm until the engine has reached full operating temperature.
•Avoid labouring the engine by operating the engine in too high a gear at low speeds.

What I mean is, some of you sound like you've tried them all lol

Not all...but many. Some of us have family or friends with other nice cars. And we also aren't afraid of going to dealers for test drives.
 
Interestingly enough, I like that SavageGeese is very nitpicky... it's one of the reasons why I watch his reviews tbh. Most reviewers tend to ignore the nitpicky stuff and focus on the good and only lightly touch on the bad, but SG usually highlights the good, the bad and the ugly. So you get a better understanding of the car without even really driving it.

The only other person who reviews that way is RegularCarReviews but obviously RCR doesn't review brand new cars so it's hard to find a complete review.

As for the Focus RS' ride being bad, now I really want to try it lol. My Miata rides like shit and I still manage to daily it... if it is as bad as a lot of people claim it to be, and is worse than my Miata, I'd be fncking shocked actually.

My issue with my Miata is that you can literally feel everything on the road(even in stock form so I just made it worse by swapping the shocks and springs lol) so even a little pothole, a divot, or some kind of gap in the road creates a very unnerving reaction to the car. I've gotten to the point where if I see something ahead of me, I automatically clench ass and brace for impact haha.

On that note, any of y'all in Dallas? I'm willing to take y'all through the shitty parts of Dallas(in terms of roads at least) and tell me if it's tolerable or not for a daily driver. Obviously I've gotten used to it so I'm not a good judge lol.

No idea but I called Chevy here in Dubai yesterday and they didn't mention anything like that at all. Having said that, it wouldn't be the first time a car reseller in Dubai just ignores the manufacturer considering the experience I had with BMW here and them ignoring the recall/extended warranty on the N63 engines hence I sold the car once the inevitable issues with the engine started popping up.

I don't see it on NHTSA or on Chevy's recall website so this might be pretty recent.

It's weird coz last week I was there I spent an entire day photo-ing all of their Camaro's on the lot and the keys were easily accessible to me. But when I asked for one Camaro key today, they told me to go to ask the sales manager due to the "stop-sale," then when I got to his office and asked him, he told me it was a recall so all the Camaro keys were kept in a safe instead.

Either way it was sort of a surprise to me. Dealers don't usually enforce a "stop-sale" on recalled cars unless its a government mandated stop or if it's a major issue. I'm still super curious as to what's going on... I wonder if we'll see something soon, otherwise I'm gonna ask when I go back there next week lol.
 
You've been driving a 17 WRX? The ride quality outside of track mode is better than that, I had a 15 WRX and it felt like the suspension bottomed out all the time. The RS is better damped than that. But track mode is track mode, and it really means track mode on the car. Fun fact is you can put it in track mode and put it into regular dampening.
Yep, been daily driving a '17 WRX since last June. It was my first foray into turbo 4 cylinders and I wanted to get my feet wet before jumping in the deep end on a $40k sports car. I am shocked that you say the RS rides better than the WRX, because the WRX feels pretty soft to me. IMO, the WRX is a sporty car, not a sports car. I want to dive into a more hardcore, sports car, which is why I am seriously considering the RS. After giving your feedback on the car, I am 100% going to at least give the RS a test drive.
 

GHG

Member
Break in is becoming more and more of a myth. It all depends on how the engine/components were tested before you get you car. Most higher performance engines and transmissions are stress tested extensively these days.

Having said that I still did take it easy in my first 1000km just in case.
 

SliChillax

Member
Break in is becoming more and more of a myth. It all depends on how the engine/components were tested before you get you car. Most higher performance engines and transmissions are stress tested extensively these days.

Having said that I still did take it easy in my first 1000km just in case.
Hey if the manual says I have to do it, I'll do it. I'd rather play it safe than risk fucking up the piston rings and all other components that are affected by it.
 
I don't see it on NHTSA or on Chevy's recall website so this might be pretty recent.

It's weird coz last week I was there I spent an entire day photo-ing all of their Camaro's on the lot and the keys were easily accessible to me. But when I asked for one Camaro key today, they told me to go to ask the sales manager due to the "stop-sale," then when I got to his office and asked him, he told me it was a recall so all the Camaro keys were kept in a safe instead.

Either way it was sort of a surprise to me. Dealers don't usually enforce a "stop-sale" on recalled cars unless its a government mandated stop or if it's a major issue. I'm still super curious as to what's going on... I wonder if we'll see something soon, otherwise I'm gonna ask when I go back there next week lol.

Was this on the 8 Spd Automatics? There's a bulletin about some vehicles in inventory for those.
 

Cowie

Member
booked a 2014 911 carrera s for the weekend via Turo, I'm pretty pumped. Trying to read up as much as I can on the car to be fully prepared and plot out driving routes locally. Any weird quirks I should be aware of?
 

v1lla21

Member
Break in is becoming more and more of a myth. It all depends on how the engine/components were tested before you get you car. Most higher performance engines and transmissions are stress tested extensively these days.

Having said that I still did take it easy in my first 1000km just in case.
It is an area which we will call the Buffer Zone.
 
Break in process is in the manual. Take it easy for the first 1200 miles. And gradually drive it harder from 1200-2000 miles

Break in is becoming more and more of a myth. It all depends on how the engine/components were tested before you get you car. Most higher performance engines and transmissions are stress tested extensively these days.

Having said that I still did take it easy in my first 1000km just in case.

Hey if the manual says I have to do it, I'll do it. I'd rather play it safe than risk fucking up the piston rings and all other components that are affected by it.

Break in is a really peculiar thing. Actual engine builders have a much different approach to doing it from what manufacturer's recommend. What I've heard and read is that it's because it can be pretty easy to chooch an engine if you try a hard break-in and don't know what you're doing. Lugging an engine and cold-engine revving are what will harm an engine, so manufacturers want to avoid people going WOT to redline with only a warm-ish engine because "I read on the internet you gotta floor it to bed the rings!" then ending up with gouged cylinders.

What I've read is that a good break-in can be done pretty quickly. Go out for a long drive with varying speeds and throttle inputs, go WOT to redline and engine break down a few times to really seat the rings, drive normally for a while, park it and change the oil. The car is now done breaking in.

Would I do that with an expensive car? Ehhhhh I don't know. But I've done it with my motorcycles and they seem fine.
 
so annoyed right now.

took my summer wheels out to polish and ceramic coat them as i plan to swap out of my winters in a couple of weeks.
this after buying one brand new one during the winter as one that was previously damaged by a friend was poorly repaired by a wheel shop.

as i'm prepping the wheels for polish one starts to roll away and falls flat on the face and damages the face of the wheel in several spots.

starting to care less and less about keeping this thing mint as the money for repair/replacement adds up.
 
Let's all praise GM/Cadillac's ingenuity.

Just overheard this from a service manager...

Remember the XT5's shifter that I've been complaining about?

It turns out that the shifter has no fail-safes when you accidentally put it in Park when you're still moving below 15mph or whatever.

So let's say you're changing the temps or fan of your AC and you rest your arm on the shifter and accidentally press park... guess what happens?

Yup, the car will immediately go to park and you hear an awesome grinding noise as it happens.

Good job GM! 👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼

On a serious note, customer damaged their brakes and who knows if this can be covered under warranty or not.
 

golem

Member
so annoyed right now.

took my summer wheels out to polish and ceramic coat them as i plan to swap out of my winters in a couple of weeks.
this after buying one brand new one during the winter as one that was previously damaged by a friend was poorly repaired by a wheel shop.

as i'm prepping the wheels for polish one starts to roll away and falls flat on the face and damages the face of the wheel in several spots.

starting to care less and less about keeping this thing mint as the money for repair/replacement adds up.

Yeah I curb my HREs yearly. Meanwhile my stockers are mint lol. Theres a fairly inexpensive guy here that just does wheels here though, we're on a first name basis haha.
 

ZOONAMI

Junior Member
is that golf MT or DSG? with a tune the golf r runs like a 12.0 quarter so the RS will never have a chance.

I think it's an MT. It seems the consensus is the RS is generally more fun, but performance wise they are close enough it basically comes down to the driver.

The other thing is that doing a tune will dramatically change the feel of the car (more fun, pulls way harder).

After apr stage 1 on my Tiguan MT it feels like a completely different car.
 

rokkerkory

Member
Plot twist... What do you guys think about a nice CPO'd Porsche Boxster? Definitely like the profile of the car and also great for weekends.

This will be just for weekends, no track and keeping it stock. Prices for a 3-4 year old Boxster will take a nice depreciation hit and CPO'd will give me 2 additional years of warranty on top.

They are running in the upper 30s to upper 40s for a nicely equipped base or S model.

Don't need anything more at this point in time me thinks. In a few years with more saved can jump into that GT3 :)
 

ZOONAMI

Junior Member
Plot twist... What do you guys think about a nice CPO'd Porsche Boxster? Definitely like the profile of the car and also great for weekends.

This will be just for weekends, no track and keeping it stock. Prices for a 3-4 year old Boxster will take a nice depreciation hit and CPO'd will give me 2 additional years of warranty on top.

They are running in the upper 30s to upper 40s for a nicely equipped base or S model.

Don't need anything more at this point in time me thinks. In a few years with more saved can jump into that GT3 :)

I dunno I kind of think the boxster is hated by everyone except the people driving them ;)

I'd get a used M2 coupe hands down instead.
 

rokkerkory

Member
I dunno I kind of think the boxster is hated by everyone except the people driving them ;)

I'd get a used M2 coupe hands down instead.

Haha true but haters gonna hate. :)

I'd like to get a nice used S2k but most of them are molested at this point and the creature comforts isn't there. =/

Edit: I already have an E92 M3 for track.
 

ZOONAMI

Junior Member
Haha true but haters gonna hate. :)

I'd like to get a nice used S2k but most of them are molested at this point and the creature comforts isn't there. =/

Edit: I already have an E92 M3 for track.

If you really want a bargain coupe potentially look at an SRT-6 crossfire. They go for sale every now and then and can be had with low miles for $13k or so. I had the base non supercharged crossfire and it was a lot of fun, nice interior too. It's basically an SLK. Also a car that's fairly polarizing. The engine is basically bulletproof. Problem with them now is that they total very easily due to lack of body parts.

I guess it's fairly old now, but they are out there with less than 50k miles. Actually a car I could see sort of becoming a collector as they didn't make a ton of them, especially the srt-6.
 

golem

Member
Plot twist... What do you guys think about a nice CPO'd Porsche Boxster? Definitely like the profile of the car and also great for weekends.

This will be just for weekends, no track and keeping it stock. Prices for a 3-4 year old Boxster will take a nice depreciation hit and CPO'd will give me 2 additional years of warranty on top.

They are running in the upper 30s to upper 40s for a nicely equipped base or S model.

Don't need anything more at this point in time me thinks. In a few years with more saved can jump into that GT3 :)
981 Boxster is a great used pickup and perfect for your use case
 

SliChillax

Member
Would I do that with an expensive car? Ehhhhh I don't know. But I've done it with my motorcycles and they seem fine.

Exactly, I don't wanna risk anything with the F-Type :p
That brings another question though, should oil be changed once the 3,000km break is done or once at around 1500km and then final at 3000km? I've read on the Camaro forums that some people change the oil mid break in to get out all the residues of the metal flakes in the oil caused by the piston rings mostly or the rubbing of the metal components.
 
Exactly, I don't wanna risk anything with the F-Type :p
That brings another question though, should oil be changed once the 3,000km break is done or once at around 1500km and then final at 3000km? I've read on the Camaro forums that some people change the oil mid break in to get out all the residues of the metal flakes in the oil caused by the piston rings mostly or the rubbing of the metal components.

You can probably do an oil change at 500 miles and take care of the vast majority of break-in residue, then resume the typical oil change schedule. I bet it depends on how you drive the car during the break-in period.
 
booked a 2014 911 carrera s for the weekend via Turo, I'm pretty pumped. Trying to read up as much as I can on the car to be fully prepared and plot out driving routes locally. Any weird quirks I should be aware of?

The Nick Murray video posted above is great. A few other things I can think of:

1. Cup Holders are hidden behind the aluminum piece above the glove compartment. Just make sure the cup holders are fully adjusted to hold the cup firmly when you put the cup into the holders...If the cup falls out of the cup holders and onto the PCM/dash/electronics then you're screwed. If you want to be safe, put the cup in the cup holder on the passenger side so you don't risk it. Personally, I always just make sure the cup holder is fully adjusted to hold the cup. I've yet to have a problem.

2. You can adjust the digital display in the instrument cluster in front of you so you can just have the menus you want (e.g. Only show navigation directions, map, music, phone, and g-forces instead of including all other menus like stop watch timer, vehicle information, MPG, etc.) There are a ton of menus and they're fun to play with, but I chose to display only the menus my family uses (i.e. Navigation directions, Map, Vehicle Information) and I leave out the other menus until track/autocross days.

3. If your 991.1 911 has the back up camera, sometimes when you back up and then proceed to go forward, the rear camera will still be displayed on your PCM/center screen. Don't freak out, just go forward at a speed of 10 mph or more and the screen will change back to the main menu. Or you can just manually press "Home" or any other button to get to that menu.

4. If you need to hang your jacket, behind the seats are hooks. I actually love these, I use them to hang a couple jackets in case my passenger or I get cold.

5. The USB and AUX is located in the glove compartment, not in the arm rest like most cars.

6. The 991.1 911's PCM has a jukebox feature. You don't have to use bluetooth to play your music. You can put in an SD card or hook up your phone via USB in order to copy your music files into the Jukebox. The SD card slot is located behind the black bar that says "PORSCHE" in the middle of the center console, just use your fingernail to life it from the bottom up. Alternatively, you can use the USB to iPhone connection, which again is located in the glove compartment. To copy the files, just go play the music in whatever media menu you need to be in, then press the "OPT" button underneath the center screen, to the right.

7. Launch control is pretty simple if you want to mess with it. Press the Sports or Sports Plus button, press down hard on the Brake pedals and don't let go, press down on the accelerator, then on the instrumental cluster behind the wheel and in front of you, the notice "Launch Control On" will be displayed, at this point, just let go of the brake pedal and you'll get launched forward.

8. I don't remember if this is true of the previous generation Porsche sports cars, but in the newer ones, you can actually watch DVD's and video files using the Jukebox feature if you copy the file over. You can watch it on the center screen, but when you are in motion, the video won't show, just audio. When you are at a stop, the video will display again.

Plot twist... What do you guys think about a nice CPO'd Porsche Boxster? Definitely like the profile of the car and also great for weekends.

This will be just for weekends, no track and keeping it stock. Prices for a 3-4 year old Boxster will take a nice depreciation hit and CPO'd will give me 2 additional years of warranty on top.

They are running in the upper 30s to upper 40s for a nicely equipped base or S model.

Don't need anything more at this point in time me thinks. In a few years with more saved can jump into that GT3 :)

I had a 981 Cayman and that was a truly fun vehicle to drive. I have not driven the 981 Boxster, but I had a 987 Boxster and I loved that car to pieces before it died on me. If you get a chance to get a 981 Boxster, I'd say go for it. It isn't about speed, but about the cornering and handling of the vehicle. However, if you don't care about leisurely drives on highways, hills, mountains, backroads, etc. then just save your money for the GT3RS...those things are monsters on the track and autocross.
 

Ash_69

Member
Interestingly enough, I like that SavageGeese is very nitpicky... it's one of the reasons why I watch his reviews tbh. Most reviewers tend to ignore the nitpicky stuff and focus on the good and only lightly touch on the bad, but SG usually highlights the good, the bad and the ugly. So you get a better understanding of the car without even really driving it.

The only other person who reviews that way is RegularCarReviews but obviously RCR doesn't review brand new cars so it's hard to find a complete review.

As for the Focus RS' ride being bad, now I really want to try it lol. My Miata rides like shit and I still manage to daily it... if it is as bad as a lot of people claim it to be, and is worse than my Miata, I'd be fncking shocked actually.

My issue with my Miata is that you can literally feel everything on the road(even in stock form so I just made it worse by swapping the shocks and springs lol) so even a little pothole, a divot, or some kind of gap in the road creates a very unnerving reaction to the car. I've gotten to the point where if I see something ahead of me, I automatically clench ass and brace for impact haha.

On that note, any of y'all in Dallas? I'm willing to take y'all through the shitty parts of Dallas(in terms of roads at least) and tell me if it's tolerable or not for a daily driver. Obviously I've gotten used to it so I'm not a good judge lol.



I don't see it on NHTSA or on Chevy's recall website so this might be pretty recent.

It's weird coz last week I was there I spent an entire day photo-ing all of their Camaro's on the lot and the keys were easily accessible to me. But when I asked for one Camaro key today, they told me to go to ask the sales manager due to the "stop-sale," then when I got to his office and asked him, he told me it was a recall so all the Camaro keys were kept in a safe instead.

Either way it was sort of a surprise to me. Dealers don't usually enforce a "stop-sale" on recalled cars unless its a government mandated stop or if it's a major issue. I'm still super curious as to what's going on... I wonder if we'll see something soon, otherwise I'm gonna ask when I go back there next week lol.

If you like car reviews that focus on the practicalities and nitpicky, I find car wow good. Not the most technical but a good starting point in which to judge the daily appeal of a car.

Also, I feel your pain with dailying a harsh riding car. My 350z whilst not super stiff, it's fucking loud which can give the impression of rough riding. I do the ass clenching thing when I see bumps too lol.
 

v1lla21

Member
RS barely beats an R on the half mile, stock.

2/10s of a second.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=US63FbxydQ4

With a tune I would think the golf r would easily be faster than an RS off the line.

I imagine RS is better in the corners though?
The new face-lifted R is packing a bit more power under the hood so it might even close the gap a bit more.
The only thing I don't like about the some of the tests is that they use manual vs manual. I get why they do it that way but if you're gonna compare performance then use the best performing variant available.
 

matmanx1

Member
Plot twist... What do you guys think about a nice CPO'd Porsche Boxster? Definitely like the profile of the car and also great for weekends.

This will be just for weekends, no track and keeping it stock. Prices for a 3-4 year old Boxster will take a nice depreciation hit and CPO'd will give me 2 additional years of warranty on top.

They are running in the upper 30s to upper 40s for a nicely equipped base or S model.

Don't need anything more at this point in time me thinks. In a few years with more saved can jump into that GT3 :)

It would be very hard to go wrong with one of those at that price. It's no GT3 but it's still a more serious sports car than 98% of everything else on the road and you get the tremendous upside of being able to drop the top whenever you want.
 

ZOONAMI

Junior Member
The new face-lifted R is packing a bit more power under the hood so it might even close the gap a bit more.
The only thing I don't like about the some of the tests is that they use manual vs manual. I get why they do it that way but if you're gonna compare performance then use the best performing variant available.

I dunno. It mainly makes sense because you are bringing the driver more into the equation. Does RS have a DSG equivalent? (No). It's like man vs man, vs man vs pretty much just machine.

Also I would go with a manual purely for maintenance $ concerns (and upfront cost) and you aren't really losing much. You gain a lot for the feel of the car and road with a manual as well imo.
 

J-Rzez

Member
Yep, been daily driving a '17 WRX since last June. It was my first foray into turbo 4 cylinders and I wanted to get my feet wet before jumping in the deep end on a $40k sports car. I am shocked that you say the RS rides better than the WRX, because the WRX feels pretty soft to me. IMO, the WRX is a sporty car, not a sports car. I want to dive into a more hardcore, sports car, which is why I am seriously considering the RS. After giving your feedback on the car, I am 100% going to at least give the RS a test drive.

Remember there's a difference between soft/hard, bottoming out, diving. My WRX when it hit a pothole or something I thought the car was going to break in half. In the RS normal damp I wonder if I got a bubble in the tire. In track damp, that same pothole will break the car and me in half. Bedt thing you can do is drive them. We all have different wants/needs/likes. I went around and pro/con and "special feeling" searched between the RS, Golf R, M2, S3, and 5.0 stang. The RS checked more pros for me, and more importantly, had a special feeling to me. You may think different.

RS barely beats an R on the half mile, stock.

2/10s of a second.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=US63FbxydQ4

With a tune I would think the golf r would easily be faster than an RS off the line.

I imagine RS is better in the corners though?

https://youtu.be/eNGI6JpcWRo

The RS aero hits a brick wall when passing triple digits. Much drag, much downforce. But then again the car was designed for handling, not drag racing, just like the Evo.

Once you get into the world of aftermarket and tuning, anything can be faster than anything. Now, handling wise between the two, its harder to make the differences up because both AWD function differently. The AWD in the RS3 sounds like it would be much closer to the RS function. But, paddle only I believe, which is unfortunate.
 

J-Rzez

Member
As for the Focus RS' ride being bad, now I really want to try it lol. My Miata rides like shit and I still manage to daily it... if it is as bad as a lot of people claim it to be, and is worse than my Miata, I'd be fncking shocked actually.

My issue with my Miata is that you can literally feel everything on the road(even in stock form so I just made it worse by swapping the shocks and springs lol) so even a little pothole, a divot, or some kind of gap in the road creates a very unnerving reaction to the car. I've gotten to the point where if I see something ahead of me, I automatically clench ass and brace for impact haha.

If you saw my exhaust vid, my friend has a new miata as well. BBS wheel, track pack thing. He has a header on it and tune. Nice car. He still swears his car rides far worse than mine in track mode that he got to experience. I didn't get to ride in it on a bad road to judge yet.

I don't worry about the car getting upset and skipping out. But I do pucker for impact in track mode. It hurts.

Most of the time I put the car into track mode, normal dampeners, all stability control disabled. Track dampening outside of a smooth track is harsh.
 

AlphaSnake

...and that, kids, was the first time I sucked a dick for crack
Exactly, I don't wanna risk anything with the F-Type :p
That brings another question though, should oil be changed once the 3,000km break is done or once at around 1500km and then final at 3000km? I've read on the Camaro forums that some people change the oil mid break in to get out all the residues of the metal flakes in the oil caused by the piston rings mostly or the rubbing of the metal components.

I do the first oil change at around 1000 miles on a new car.
 
Im slowly learning more and more and it all sounds very fascinating.

I learned my Honda Accord Touring is "CVT" and I hear some bad things about that in terms of feeling control and wearing out easier.

Im locked in with my purchase, but a part of me is wondering if I should have gone for the Civic if only for the price. It seems to have a lot of the same features, but my used Accord 2016 just has a bunch of nice high end features that seemed to good to pass up (leather interior, wireless charging, tinted windows)

I hear how the Sports mode/V6 engines are meant to feel more powerful, but what exactly is the point of using them if they use up fuel more? Is it just for the thrill of the engine? Do you go faster or something? I have no idea why people would use up more gas for those other driving modes like Sport and "L". I want to try it, but Im a bit scared how


Also, how useful do you guys find the tech based safety features? Should I turn of lane assist, collision mitigation, etc? Do any of you own a Honda and use the lane watch cameras?
 

Evo X

Member
Some rich guy saw me drive my car at work and made a very generous above MSRP offer for it.

Considering selling it, but have no idea what I would replace it with. There's really nothing that competes with it at it's price point and I'm not in a financial position to upgrade to a supercar like 458 or Huracan right now.

I could possibly hop into one of the "normal" Porsche's on an employee lease program for 2 years to help save up some money for a big upgrade. 718 or Macan S perhaps? Dunno. I'm not really a fan of the 7 speed manual in the new 911s.

A decent option 718 employee lease would be almost 1/3 the monthly cost of the GT4, but obviously not as fun or exclusive....
 

rokkerkory

Member
Some rich guy saw me drive my car at work and made a very generous above MSRP offer for it.

Considering selling it, but have no idea what I would replace it with. There's really nothing that competes with it at it's price point and I'm not in a financial position to upgrade to a supercar like 458 or Huracan right now.

I could possibly hop into one of the "normal" Porsche's on an employee lease program for 2 years to help save up some money for a big upgrade. 718 or Macan S perhaps? Dunno. I'm not really a fan of the 7 speed manual in the new 911s.

Which car again? GT4?

Edit: saw your edit cool
 
Some rich guy saw me drive my car at work and made a very generous above MSRP offer for it.

Considering selling it, but have no idea what I would replace it with. There's really nothing that competes with it at it's price point and I'm not in a financial position to upgrade to a supercar like 458 or Huracan right now.

I could possibly hop into one of the "normal" Porsche's on an employee lease program for 2 years to help save up some money for a big upgrade. 718 or Macan S perhaps? Dunno. I'm not really a fan of the 7 speed manual in the new 911s.

A decent option 718 employee lease would be almost 1/3 the monthly cost of the GT4, but obviously not as fun or exclusive....

Coming from a guy who's had a 987, 981, and 718... My vote goes for keeping the GT4.
 
Thanks! I'll have to talk with the dude and feel out his opinion on me launching the car, haha. I don't want him to think I'm going to run his car ragged, but if he's cool with it I absolutely want to try it out.

That sounds like a solid plan. Enjoy the car. It's great. Just keep in mind that any car can go straight, but half the fun of the Porsche cars are the curves. So find some nice backroads and just have fun driving it.

If you have an iPhone, I highly recommend downloading the official Porsche GTS Routes app. It will give you nearby backroads and routes that people have taken, uploaded, and rated. If you're in a bigger area like California, it's most likely a lot of people have used this app to give some good routes to take. If you live in an area with not many Porsche owners, it's unlikely any routes are nearby since no one uploads anything.

Enjoy and let us know how you like it!
 

GHG

Member
Some rich guy saw me drive my car at work and made a very generous above MSRP offer for it.

Considering selling it, but have no idea what I would replace it with. There's really nothing that competes with it at it's price point and I'm not in a financial position to upgrade to a supercar like 458 or Huracan right now.

I could possibly hop into one of the "normal" Porsche's on an employee lease program for 2 years to help save up some money for a big upgrade. 718 or Macan S perhaps? Dunno. I'm not really a fan of the 7 speed manual in the new 911s.

A decent option 718 employee lease would be almost 1/3 the monthly cost of the GT4, but obviously not as fun or exclusive....

Do this only if you know what other car you want, how much it costs and how long it will take you to save to get it.

If not then you will regret every minute that you are in the 718 and ask yourself why you sold the GT4.
 

ZOONAMI

Junior Member
Remember there's a difference between soft/hard, bottoming out, diving. My WRX when it hit a pothole or something I thought the car was going to break in half. In the RS normal damp I wonder if I got a bubble in the tire. In track damp, that same pothole will break the car and me in half. Bedt thing you can do is drive them. We all have different wants/needs/likes. I went around and pro/con and "special feeling" searched between the RS, Golf R, M2, S3, and 5.0 stang. The RS checked more pros for me, and more importantly, had a special feeling to me. You may think different.



https://youtu.be/eNGI6JpcWRo

The RS aero hits a brick wall when passing triple digits. Much drag, much downforce. But then again the car was designed for handling, not drag racing, just like the Evo.

Once you get into the world of aftermarket and tuning, anything can be faster than anything. Now, handling wise between the two, its harder to make the differences up because both AWD function differently. The AWD in the RS3 sounds like it would be much closer to the RS function. But, paddle only I believe, which is unfortunate.

It looks from the comments both of those cars are tuned. It also seems like the RS is jumping the start every time.

Stock vs stock a DSG golf will pretty easily beat an RS looking at c&d comparisons, etc. even under triple digits.

Either way this video just demonstrates a golf with significantly less hp and torque keeps up with an RS. Even manual vs manual (from other videos). Even track times are very close, and considering the hp advantage of the RS you'd think there would be more of a gap.
 

Bandit1

Member
Do this only if you know what other car you want, how much it costs and how long it will take you to save to get it.

If not then you will regret every minute that you are in the 718 and ask yourself why you sold the GT4.

Sounds like solid advice to me.
 

elfinke

Member
Further showing that Kia know their Aussie market well, they've released their 0-100 times for the RWD Stinger GT today.

http://www.caradvice.com.au/537456/kia-stinger-gts-0-100-time-confirmed/

4.9
they reckon, which makes it as fast as the about-to-disappear-forever-6.2l-LS3-Commodore. Given its likely RRP of between $40k and $50k - depending on spec - is going to be thousands cheaper than anything even remotely sporty from Europe (C200 starts at $68k, 318i $62k), it's shaping up pretty well as the replacement family large sedan with a bit of go.
 

zeemumu

Member
Break in is becoming more and more of a myth. It all depends on how the engine/components were tested before you get you car. Most higher performance engines and transmissions are stress tested extensively these days.

Having said that I still did take it easy in my first 1000km just in case.

Would the stress testing be like immediately flooring it full speed into a wall on the grounds that you should still survive vs breaking in which is like letting the car know ahead of time that you're heading for wall assuming that would allow the car to shield you better than with no warning at all?

I'm terrible at analogies.
 

boltz

Member
Im slowly learning more and more and it all sounds very fascinating.

I learned my Honda Accord Touring is "CVT" and I hear some bad things about that in terms of feeling control and wearing out easier.

Im locked in with my purchase, but a part of me is wondering if I should have gone for the Civic if only for the price. It seems to have a lot of the same features, but my used Accord 2016 just has a bunch of nice high end features that seemed to good to pass up (leather interior, wireless charging, tinted windows)

I hear how the Sports mode/V6 engines are meant to feel more powerful, but what exactly is the point of using them if they use up fuel more? Is it just for the thrill of the engine? Do you go faster or something? I have no idea why people would use up more gas for those other driving modes like Sport and "L". I want to try it, but Im a bit scared how


Also, how useful do you guys find the tech based safety features? Should I turn of lane assist, collision mitigation, etc? Do any of you own a Honda and use the lane watch cameras?

The Accord V6 is a surprisingly quick car, and worse fuel economy is what you trade for that faster performance.

As for the tech stuff, unless that stuff interferes with your driving style, I would leave it on. To me, it's the kind of stuff that doesn't replace alert, defensive driving but could save your butt if you happen to get distracted or are having one of those "off" days. I would try the lane watch and see if it's to your liking. Some folks seem to love it and some folks don't (like me).

Some rich guy saw me drive my car at work and made a very generous above MSRP offer for it.

Considering selling it, but have no idea what I would replace it with. There's really nothing that competes with it at it's price point and I'm not in a financial position to upgrade to a supercar like 458 or Huracan right now.

I could possibly hop into one of the "normal" Porsche's on an employee lease program for 2 years to help save up some money for a big upgrade. 718 or Macan S perhaps? Dunno. I'm not really a fan of the 7 speed manual in the new 911s.

A decent option 718 employee lease would be almost 1/3 the monthly cost of the GT4, but obviously not as fun or exclusive....

How are used prices trending on GT4s? If they are appreciating or holding pretty steady, there's no reason to make a hasty decision to sell it unless you really want something else.

It looks from the comments both of those cars are tuned. It also seems like the RS is jumping the start every time.

Stock vs stock a DSG golf will pretty easily beat an RS looking at c&d comparisons, etc. even under triple digits.

Either way this video just demonstrates a golf with significantly less hp and torque keeps up with an RS. Even manual vs manual (from other videos). Even track times are very close, and considering the hp advantage of the RS you'd think there would be more of a gap.

I don't know how true this is, but I usually take German power ratings to be at the wheel and everybody else's numbers to be at the crank, which makes sense when something like the GTI is down on power to a FoST but is pretty similar in terms of performance.

Either way, several tenths of a second is not going to matter for DD'ing. Frankly, I would be happy with either, but I would give the edge to a RS because I'm willing to trade some comfort and luxury for a more raw, engaging driving experience.
 
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