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KS8000 settings for gaming at 4k/HDR

Ryu Silveira

Neo Member
Thanks for the help guys on my previous questions...end sarcasm...

I'll try and write a shorter version of my previous post on page 157...

Any reason or fix around to having the HDR on in the Xbox Video Display settings? I have HDR set to off because when it's on. Netflix looks dim when booting up, watching shows that are not HDR compatible look darker than how they look if I were to watch it through the Netflix app on the TV.
 

Yoday

Member
Thanks for the help guys on my previous questions...end sarcasm...

I'll try and write a shorter version of my previous post on page 157...

Any reason or fix around to having the HDR on in the Xbox Video Display settings? I have HDR set to off because when it's on. Netflix looks dim when booting up, watching shows that are not HDR compatible look darker than how they look if I were to watch it through the Netflix app on the TV.
The only way around it is to just use the TVs Netflix app. It seems like apps on the Xbox flag all or nothing when it comes to HDR, as the Amazon app works the same way. I hope they can figure out a fix for it, as this is going to become a major issue for video app usability as more and more people get HDR TVs.
 

IMACOMPUTA

Member
Hey guys I have a KS8500 and realized that I'm going to need to buy a 30 foot high speed HDMI cable.

Is any HDMI cable good enough to be 30 feet and display 4K and HDR fine?

Welcome to my hell. I just bought this one that I expected to work and ran it through my wall only to find out it can't do 4k/HDR on my PC. I imagine it was too long, but they don't have a 30 ft version (which would probably be enough). I'm giving up for now.

Let me know if you find something.
 

Bloodsent

Member
Updated to 1180.5 and started experiencing issues with the CAL-Day and CAL-Night modes. Since the update, when I use them, they don't appear to properly switch between SDR and HDR settings anymore. Granted most of my testing has been with a Shield TV, which has been reset since the firmware as well. Doesn't matter if it is Amazon, Netflix, or Kodi, all HDR content uses the SDR settings.

Even more strange is when I switch inputs now from something else back, it gets stuck in Game mode with the options to change grayed out? Is there any way to downgrade firmware?

Movie mode seems to be ok though from what I can tell.
 

Ryu Silveira

Neo Member
The only way around it is to just use the TVs Netflix app. It seems like apps on the Xbox flag all or nothing when it comes to HDR, as the Amazon app works the same way. I hope they can figure out a fix for it, as this is going to become a major issue for video app usability as more and more people get HDR TVs.

Hey Yoday, thanks for the reply. So pretty much any content that I watch on Netflix, Amazon, or YouTube. If it's HDR, then I have to first turn it on in the display settings for Xbox and then go back to watch that on particular show or movie and then turn it off when I'm done? That's a bit more work then I thought...lol.

And the same goes for games too...I should probably make a list of all HDR compatible games and movies/shows...
 

dcx4610

Member
No luck here either, don't think the TV supports it, which seems strange.

Thanks for checking. I thought Bluetooth was Bluetooth and it should at least detect it.

I'm debating if I should buy an extra PS4 controller now to use the Steam Link app. Has anyone paired a PS4 controller to their TV and then used the Steam app successfully? Any problems?
 
So pretty much any content that I watch on Netflix, Amazon, or YouTube. If it's HDR, then I have to first turn it on in the display settings for Xbox and then go back to watch that on particular show or movie and then turn it off when I'm done?

The Youtube app on the Xbox 1(S) and PS4(Pro) don't even support HDR so you pretty much have to use the TV's built-in app to watch YT. So far the only other device that supports HDR on YT it is the Google Chromecast Ultra (hmmmm...).

As a result, I just use the TV's smart apps for all that stuff now. My systems are for games and blu-rays only.
 

Ryu Silveira

Neo Member
The Youtube app on the Xbox 1(S) and PS4(Pro) don't even support HDR so you pretty much have to use the TV's built-in app to watch YT. So far the only other device that supports HDR on YT it is the Google Chromecast Ultra (hmmmm...).

As a result, I just use the TV's smart apps for all that stuff now. My systems are for games and blu-rays only.

Mmmm got it...damn. So I guess it's either buy another ethernet cable and run it from my PC and remove the cable concealer off the wall and reinstall or unplug the ethernet cable from Xbox to TV and vice versa because wifi sucks...lol.

Or just wait if an update comes out any time soon?
 

Clockwork

Member
Mmmm got it...damn. So I guess it's either buy another ethernet cable and run it from my PC and remove the cable concealer off the wall and reinstall or unplug the ethernet cable from Xbox to TV and vice versa because wifi sucks...lol.

Or just wait if an update comes out any time soon?

What is wrong with your wifi that you can't use the built in apps?

Per Netflix:

Below are the Internet download speed recommendations per stream for playing TV shows and movies through Netflix.

0.5 Megabits per second - Required broadband connection speed
1.5 Megabits per second - Recommended broadband connection speed
3.0 Megabits per second - Recommended for SD quality
5.0 Megabits per second - Recommended for HD quality
25 Megabits per second - Recommended for Ultra HD quality

I said bye bye to wires quite some time ago and I couldn't be happier.
 
Are anyone here having problem with the wi-fi?? Some times it disconects and I have to unplug the power cable and plug again for it to work again. =/
 

Robiin

Member
I don't think I can quite express how happy I am that the Switch bug us fixed. The only problem I have now with this tv is the battery life of the remote and the HDMI inputs resetting names.
 

ss_lemonade

Member
I don't think I can quite express how happy I am that the Switch bug us fixed. The only problem I have now with this tv is the battery life of the remote and the HDMI inputs resetting names.

Same exact issues here. My remote almost always stops working once a week. Not sure if it's a battery issue because all I do is remove and put the batteries back and it'll work again for a few days.

HDMI inputs resetting make renaming inputs almost useless. I once wanted my receiver to be treated as a PC since that gives me low input lag + separate SDR/HDR settings (I was willing to live with the saturated colors) but the TV would always reset it back to Game Console or whatever it thinks it's supposed to default it to.
 

Clockwork

Member
I don't think I can quite express how happy I am that the Switch bug us fixed. The only problem I have now with this tv is the battery life of the remote and the HDMI inputs resetting names.

How long have you had the tv? I got mine whenever the EPP pricing was before Christmas and I still am using the batteries that came in the box.

There are some instances where the remote doesn't seem to want to respond or turn on the tv, but that happened even when the batteries were fresh.
 

hesido

Member
Are you talking about Clear LED Motion? I'm sad that this option doesn't work as expected on my ks9000 and is pretty much useless here. That's one advantage that the ks8000 has over it. I believe strobing does add a tiny bit of input lag though, but if other TVs can have it with game mode, Samsung should have as well.

Yes, that's the one, it flashes a black screen every other cycle, I don't know why it would add an input lag though. If they are analyzing each frame to create a certain dim pattern, it could add some lag. As you know, the caveat is the brightness is lowered, but since the those TV's are as bright as sunshine already, it is still brighter compared to my previous led!
 

Jim

Member
Are anyone here having problem with the wi-fi?? Some times it disconects and I have to unplug the power cable and plug again for it to work again. =/

I do. Every few days, it just drop wifi when turning it on, even though settings still claim it's "connected". No rhyme or reason. I've tried different routers, different security settings, different DNS settings, resetting the OneConnect box, etc. Very strong signal so it's not that. It just forgets the password or something.

Oddly enough, if I do a soft power cycle (HOLD power on remote until it turns back on), it magically reconnects.

Hopefully new firmware will eventually fix this.
 

Ryu Silveira

Neo Member
What is wrong with your wifi that you can't use the built in apps?

Per Netflix:



I said bye bye to wires quite some time ago and I couldn't be happier.

Well, I'm living with roommates here in New York so they have a modem from Spectrum and they already had this old Belkin router that was like $30...I know because I checked the price and it just sucks...lol. I get like 12 mbps to my Xbox One S if I do it wireless, so the good thing is I managed to get the room with the modem and router in that room, so I tried to hardwire everything possible...lol.

They have 100 mbps plan through Spectrum. What I may end up doing though, is probably look for a decent router online on Amazon and purchase one in a few weeks...
 
I do. Every few days, it just drop wifi when turning it on, even though settings still claim it's "connected". No rhyme or reason. I've tried different routers, different security settings, different DNS settings, resetting the OneConnect box, etc. Very strong signal so it's not that. It just forgets the password or something.

Oddly enough, if I do a soft power cycle (HOLD power on remote until it turns back on), it magically reconnects.

Hopefully new firmware will eventually fix this.

Yep, the same issue that I have. I hope a fix solves it.
I didnt test that soft power cycle yet, looks easier than unplugging the power cable.
 

MauroNL

Member
Is there any difference between these HDMI black level settings?

PS4 Limited - TV Low
PS4 Full - TV Limited

Seems the first one looks a tad darker and the second one a bit more washed out.
 
Is there any difference between these HDMI black level settings?

PS4 Limited - TV Low
PS4 Full - TV Limited

Seems the first one looks a tad darker and the second one a bit more washed out.

First one is correct, second one isn't. Go either PS4 limited/HDMI Color low, or PS4 full/HDMI color normal. They're indentical.
 

ss_lemonade

Member
Is there any difference between these HDMI black level settings?

PS4 Limited - TV Low
PS4 Full - TV Limited

Seems the first one looks a tad darker and the second one a bit more washed out.

Limited is Low with these Samsung TVs, so the first one will give you correct picture and the second one will not
 

MauroNL

Member
First one is correct, second one isn't. Go either PS4 limited/HDMI Color low, or PS4 full/HDMI color normal. They're indentical.

Limited is Low with these Samsung TVs, so the first one will give you correct picture and the second one will not
Hmm odd, when I use your suggestions the picture looks kinda crushed, even with backlight upto 20. I have the 2017 MU8000 though so maybe its different
 

ss_lemonade

Member
So I've been planning on buying an OG xbox to play some old games but just realized that the One Connect box doesn't seem to have any inputs to do Composite or even Component (is this a downgrade from previous One Connect boxes which offered adapters?). Any way around this?

Hmm odd, when I use your suggestions the picture looks kinda crushed, even with backlight upto 20. I have the 2017 MU8000 though so maybe its different

Oh, thought you had a KS. Which one is giving you crushed blacks? (PS4)Limited - (TV)Low or (PS4)Full - (TV)Normal?
 

Ryu Silveira

Neo Member
Would you guys advise to use Dynamic Contrast on low for HDR and non-HDR content and keep gamma at 0?

Or raise gamma to 1 and turn off Dynamic Contrast for HDR and non-HDR content?

I tried to keep Dynamic Contrast at high for HDR content but it adds a bit too much pop around light/bright areas. For non-HDR content it's not too bad on high, I know for when my girl watches How I Met Your Mother, she says skin tones look a bit orange...
 

JMY86

Member
Would you guys advise to use Dynamic Contrast on low for HDR and non-HDR content and keep gamma at 0?

Or raise gamma to 1 and turn off Dynamic Contrast for HDR and non-HDR content?

I tried to keep Dynamic Contrast at high for HDR content but it adds a bit too much pop around light/bright areas. For non-HDR content it's not too bad on high, I know for when my girl watches How I Met Your Mother, she says skin tones look a bit orange...

I use Dynamic Contrast on Low (Gamma 0) with HDR content and I have never been disappointed. Dynamic Contrast on High with HDR is just an eyesore IMO.
 

Yoday

Member
Hey Yoday, thanks for the reply. So pretty much any content that I watch on Netflix, Amazon, or YouTube. If it's HDR, then I have to first turn it on in the display settings for Xbox and then go back to watch that on particular show or movie and then turn it off when I'm done? That's a bit more work then I thought...lol.

And the same goes for games too...I should probably make a list of all HDR compatible games and movies/shows...
Correct. If you want to use Netflix/Amazon without SDR content looking super dim then you'll need to turn off HDR either on your TV or on the Xbox. It's a pretty crappy situation that I hope they can fix with app updates. I'd just use the TV apps, but ARC is unusable in game mode due to the additional 100ms of audio lag, and I don't have enough optical ports to connect the Xbox, PS4 and TV. One thing to note is that the Xbox YouTube app does not support 4K or HDR yet, so need to worry about anything there.
 

Garwoofoo

Neo Member
Would you guys advise to use Dynamic Contrast on low for HDR and non-HDR content and keep gamma at 0?

Or raise gamma to 1 and turn off Dynamic Contrast for HDR and non-HDR content?

I tried to keep Dynamic Contrast at high for HDR content but it adds a bit too much pop around light/bright areas. For non-HDR content it's not too bad on high, I know for when my girl watches How I Met Your Mother, she says skin tones look a bit orange...

The simple answer is: try both and see what you prefer. Note that the gamma setting seems to take a few seconds to "settle" when you change it so try and give it time to adjust if you're switching between different settings.

I've spent time with both and I much prefer the gamma approach now. It gives a more natural picture that also seems to accentuate the HDR effect more. But YMMV.
 
Would you guys advise to use Dynamic Contrast on low for HDR and non-HDR content and keep gamma at 0?

Or raise gamma to 1 and turn off Dynamic Contrast for HDR and non-HDR content?

I tried to keep Dynamic Contrast at high for HDR content but it adds a bit too much pop around light/bright areas. For non-HDR content it's not too bad on high, I know for when my girl watches How I Met Your Mother, she says skin tones look a bit orange...

I've tried both. In HDR, I think I prefer DC on low over increasing Gamma to 1 or 2. I got DC off for SDR things though.
 
Would you guys advise to use Dynamic Contrast on low for HDR and non-HDR content and keep gamma at 0?

Or raise gamma to 1 and turn off Dynamic Contrast for HDR and non-HDR content?

I tried to keep Dynamic Contrast at high for HDR content but it adds a bit too much pop around light/bright areas. For non-HDR content it's not too bad on high, I know for when my girl watches How I Met Your Mother, she says skin tones look a bit orange...

I think the colors look more natural with DC off and gamma set to 1, but maybe I'm just biased now because that was what all the experts said. If you use it stick with low.
 
Gamma at 1 doesn't compensate for the HDR dimness in my opinion. DC on low brightens the picture up to the level of gamma 2 or 3 in addition to giving the picture some pop.
 
Gamma at 1 doesn't compensate for the HDR dimness in my opinion. DC on low brightens the picture up to the level of gamma 2 or 3 in addition to giving the picture some pop.

It works great for me and about the same brightness as DC on low. All screens are not identical so that has to be taken into account. I prefer subtlety as opposed to colors popping too.
 

Robiin

Member
Wait, when did people come to the consensus that DC should be on? When I bought and discussed this TV back in late 2016, DC was considered a demon that would give wrong colors and spoil the intended picture.
 
Wait, when did people come to the consensus that DC should be on? When I bought and discussed this TV back in late 2016, DC was considered a demon that would give wrong colors and spoil the intended picture.

Just give it a try? As you see, two people in this very thread come to different conclusions. I think there are many people (I'm not gonna say a consensus because I don't know) who find the HDR picture too dim with DC off and gamma at 0. It certainly is way too subdued for me and makes for a worse experience and DC on low does a good job of lighting up the picture while largely maintaining the intended level of detail. Some people seem to like it, others don't.

DC on medium is too much for me however, which is where I disagree with the avs forums. For instance, if you got a bright surface with some dark details on it, DC medium will brighten the white surface up to the point where it engulfs the details, thus taking some detail and sharpness out of the picture as a trade off for even more brightness. For instance, if you got a bright stone wall like this:

ncXtIJG.jpg

If you crank DC up to medium those cracks between the stone will be engulfed by the white surroundings. I suggest you try some of the 4k YT videos I posted on this or the last page and just switch between the options. That's what I do and DC on low gives me personally the best mix of HDR, brightness and detail. DC is IMO not necessary on SDR. Might as well just crank up backlight if you find the screen too dim.
 
Hmm odd, when I use your suggestions the picture looks kinda crushed, even with backlight upto 20. I have the 2017 MU8000 though so maybe its different

If you're getting crushed blacks with the correct black level settings then you need to adjust Brightness to compensate, not Backlight.

DC on low gives me personally the best mix of HDR, brightness and detail.

Same. I keep DC on low and Gamma of 1 for all content, personally. If you set DC to anything above low, you are either going to crush whites (Med) or whites and blacks (High). Low is the only acceptable setting to me.

Is there anyway to download these videos? I don't have internet at my home yet, but can download them at work on a USB stick.

Are you using Chrome or Firefox? There are many free plug-ins on both that allow you to download Youtube videos for offline play.
 
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