Of course! Quite a few of the photos on here are already iphone shots.
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GAF Photography Q4 - 2013
- Thread starter seventynine
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Of course! Quite a few of the photos on here are already iphone shots.
Wow, sweet! Thanks you for your elaborate answer.
Edit: I'm not much of a photographer but do enjoy taking pictures from time to time. Might post some of them later.
Great .will post a few later.
Iacobellis
Junior Member
The secret is using the tone curve:
Original:
Edit:
Settings:
To get the funky colours you need to tweak the individual colour channels instead of just the RGB like so:
What would be the best way to do this in Photoshop? I've always had a hankering to use this "look", but could never really come up with the surefire way of manipulating it.
JackAubrey
Member
Some fabulous photos in this thread. Mine aren't so good - but I thought I'd share a few from walks in my local area in the last few days. Although originally from Manchester in the north of England I have moved round quite a bit in recent years, but have found myself more at home here in Dorset than anywhere else. So I think I'll be staying.
Break in the Trees by Grumpyrocker, on Flickr
Golden Cap by Grumpyrocker, on Flickr
House Favoured by Light by Grumpyrocker, on Flickr
Break in the Trees by Grumpyrocker, on Flickr
Golden Cap by Grumpyrocker, on Flickr
House Favoured by Light by Grumpyrocker, on Flickr
Iacobellis
Junior Member
Ah, okay! I've tried this before but could always give it another go. Thanks!
I had my first go at shooting light trails yesterday morning. It was, sort of successful. My best photo had a partial chain-link fence obstructing the left side, so I scrapped the photo. I did the same routine this morning and got better results.
I shot this photo at around 6:30 this morning as the sun was rising. 30 second exposure. I applied adjustments in Photoshop and sharpened it a bit. I'm not the best with manual focus.
What could I do to improve my next shot?
I think if you cropped the bottom third of the picture it would profit (thus the horizon being the middle of the picture) and it having a very wide aspect ratio.
The bushes in front distract me more than they add. I like the clouds and the way the light streams down through them.
JackAubrey
Member
I'd personally rather use the curve layer actually.It's easier to tweak than in lightroom, where you can't scale the tool window. And you have access to separate RGB/CMYK curves, just like in LR.
Love the effect too, a subtle use can really change the mood of a picture. Tweaking the blue curve is kind of magic. Used it on theses recently :
JackAubrey I love where you live, i'll try to visit once
JackAubrey
Member
I'd personally rather use the curve layer actually.It's easier to tweak than in lightroom, where you can't scale the tool window. And you have access to separate RGB/CMYK curves, just like in LR.
Love the effect too, a subtle use can really change the mood of a picture. Tweaking the blue curve is kind of magic. Used it on theses recently :
JackAubrey I love where you live, i'll try to visit once
Love the look you've got there. What exactly did you do to the blue tone curve?
Edit: I live in West Dorset in South West England. I live in a village a few miles inland. So the coast is only 15-20 minutes drive away.
Yeah the trip for me would be longer, coming from Belgium, but i've been in UK quite a few times already.
Best advice is to play with the curve and see what works best. But basically, while tweaking the blue channel, raising the lowest anchor ( whitening the shadows ) will get the shadow blueish, and lowering the higher one will make the highlight yellow.
Understanding why would involve understanding the additive synthesis, there should be an article on wiki if you want, no rocket science here.
The cool thing is that both effect works well together. Not generally the case with red and green curves imo.
Took a couple of screenshots :
Best advice is to play with the curve and see what works best. But basically, while tweaking the blue channel, raising the lowest anchor ( whitening the shadows ) will get the shadow blueish, and lowering the higher one will make the highlight yellow.
Understanding why would involve understanding the additive synthesis, there should be an article on wiki if you want, no rocket science here.
The cool thing is that both effect works well together. Not generally the case with red and green curves imo.
Took a couple of screenshots :
No adjustments
Blue shadows
Yellow highlight
Both
JackAubrey
Member
Thanks for explaining that, I'll give it a try.
Whatever you fancy sharing really, we used to have a regular competition but that died down sadly
So, Wispy has been doing awesome stuff again. http://wispy.tumblr.com/
Also, gratuitous cat picture !
And GF as well. Less hairy, thank god.
Also, gratuitous cat picture !
And GF as well. Less hairy, thank god.
33-Hit-Combo
Member
A few from Maastricht, Netherlands. Got super lucky with the weather.
I've never really done much photography before, but I bought a Sony Nex-F3 so I've been fooling around a bit..
I figure this is probably a good place to ask questions, so:
How do you manually focus on things that are moving? If I try to get that shallow depth of field effect on a moving target it seems like it's impossible since by the time I've focused the lens the distance has changed and something else is in focus.
Also, right now I'm just using the lens that it came with, which is 18-55mm. Should I think about getting other lenses, or will this one suffice?
I figure this is probably a good place to ask questions, so:
How do you manually focus on things that are moving? If I try to get that shallow depth of field effect on a moving target it seems like it's impossible since by the time I've focused the lens the distance has changed and something else is in focus.
Also, right now I'm just using the lens that it came with, which is 18-55mm. Should I think about getting other lenses, or will this one suffice?
Iacobellis
Junior Member
I've never really done much photography before, but I bought a Sony Nex-F3 so I've been fooling around a bit..
I figure this is probably a good place to ask questions, so:
How do you manually focus on things that are moving? If I try to get that shallow depth of field effect on a moving target it seems like it's impossible since by the time I've focused the lens the distance has changed and something else is in focus.
Also, right now I'm just using the lens that it came with, which is 18-55mm. Should I think about getting other lenses, or will this one suffice?
Not sure about the answer to your first question (sorry!), but a lens everybody should have (or at least start with) is a 50 f/1.8. The photos that come out of it are amazing and it is definitely worth your dollar. The higher aperture will allow to achieve a very shallow depth of field, while also taking in more light.
NathanMcMahon
Banned
Pre-focus to a certain distance in anticipation of the subject being at that distance. Or practice the manual focus maneuver as much as possible until it becomes reflex.
The lens you have is good for now. Take photos and figure out what you like to photograph and see what your lacking when you want to take one. You'll probably want a telephoto that starts at the longer end of that 18-55mm (eg 55-250 or whatever lens has a similar length for the camera equipment you've settled into). Don't worry so much about the f-stops right now, though if you keep up with this you'll probably eventually want to get into some faster glass (more expensive). Just take photos really. Take your camera with you everywhere and see what you like to shoot.
MilesWebber
Member
Fantastic start to the quarter, GAF!
Guess what? IT'S FUCKING FALL Y'ALL! Went out to get some classic New England scenery and even though it was overcast, I think got a few good ones.
Autumn Cows by WMD Photography, on Flickr
New England Autumn by WMD Photography, on Flickr
Autumn Flowers by WMD Photography, on Flickr
upload by WMD Photography, on Flickr
upload by WMD Photography, on Flickr
Guess what? IT'S FUCKING FALL Y'ALL! Went out to get some classic New England scenery and even though it was overcast, I think got a few good ones.
Autumn Cows by WMD Photography, on Flickr
New England Autumn by WMD Photography, on Flickr
Autumn Flowers by WMD Photography, on Flickr
upload by WMD Photography, on Flickr
upload by WMD Photography, on Flickr
It's actually a slightly modified VSCO preset, but Pepto is right in that the majority of the effect rests in the tone curves.
dr3upmushroom
Banned
Thanks!
Love your Bridge photo, Sneaky.
Major Williams
Member
Nikon announced the 58mm f/1.4G last night. It looks like a great lens. And for the DX folks it's ideal portrait length (87mm equivalent). I think I'm going to get one!
http://www.dpreview.com/news/2013/10/17/nikon-invokes-spirit-of-noctilux-with-58mm-f-1-4g-premium-lens
http://www.dpreview.com/news/2013/10/17/nikon-invokes-spirit-of-noctilux-with-58mm-f-1-4g-premium-lens
Take pictures your entire life, hope you're lucky for the right split second.
NathanMcMahon
Banned
ha!
And then I see you post and I'm reminded why I don't take that much pictures anymore
Very nice light and use of blur as always!And then I see you post and I'm reminded why I don't take that much pictures anymore
haha thanks. Don't be ridiculous. Just post. The more you make, the more you show, the more you learn. That's how i did it.
dr3upmushroom
Banned
How'd you like that EKTAR film, Damaged? A classmate told me that the photos came out with more saturation. Just finished my first roll (35mm) of it today.
Really digging your B&W photo of the building, Guess. Has a cool abstract vibe to it. I like the angular spiral shooting out to the left.
Fairly pleased, yeah the saturation is quite strong on some shots but less noticeable on shots in strong sunlight. That's my first roll of it shot but I have a few more to use to get used to it. Let me know how you find it as im looking for a good 35mm colour film
NathanMcMahon
Banned
MilesWebber
Member
Gonna drop these here from yesterday. Went up to Maine for the weekend.
DD and Damaged, Great stuff there!
Edit: Bottom of page :-/ figures.
DD and Damaged, Great stuff there!
Edit: Bottom of page :-/ figures.
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