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Good wireless router/switch recommendations?

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bishoptl

Banstick Emeritus
I just pulled the plug on my old internet thanks to their stand on UBB, and signed up with TekSavvy. They sent me a wicked Motorola SB5120...

Modem-Motorola-Sb5100.jpg

*warning: searching for "Motorola SB5120" in Bing will bring up a photo of a woman's bikini buttocks pressed against a barbed wire fence. Just saying.

...but with just the one USB and one ethernet plug on the back, I'm going to need to expand in order to get interwebs on the various equipment I've got around the house. Gigabit is a must so I can transfer files around, and reliability of course. Price isn't an issue, so if anyone has some experiences, I'd love to hear 'em.
 
Can you share why? Do you have one of these?

I have 3 of the routers this model succeeds (WNDR3700). they've been the best routers I've owned. In 6 months, I've never had to reset any of them. I stream large MKV files over my network wirelessly with no problems. I usually see a maximum wireless transfer speed of around 20MB/s and its dual-band functionality means my N devices get their own party.

And generally speaking, the beefier processor in these means superior speed even in heavy traffic situations.

I'm a big fan of the 3700, and I assume this upgraded model is even better. If I didn't have 3700's that I'm happy with, I'd certainly get a couple of these.

It can't do DD-WRT or Tomato, but it's not necessary at all. The built-in features are excellent and easy to configure.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002SQ9ZX2/?tag=neogaf0e-20

Put DDWRT on this and it works like a charm. Even bought a second one to use as a wireless repeater.
you should set that repeater up as a wireless bridge if you can. your loosing so much speed by repeating. :(
 

SephCast

Brotherhood of Shipley's
I have 3 of the routers this model succeeds (WNDR3700). they've been the best routers I've owned. In 6 months, I've never had to reset any of them. I stream large MKV files over my network wirelessly with no problems. I usually see a maximum wireless transfer speed of around 20MB/s and its dual-band functionality means my N devices get their own party.

And generally speaking, the beefier processor in these means superior speed even in heavy traffic situations.

I'm a big fan of the 3700, and I assume this upgraded model is even better. If I didn't have 3700's that I'm happy with, I'd certainly get a couple of these.

It can't do DD-WRT or Tomato, but it's not necessary at all. The built-in features are excellent and easy to configure.


you should set that repeater up as a wireless bridge if you can. your loosing so much speed by repeating. :(

Maybe I do have it set up as a repeater, let me double check.
 
Ignore this tangential discussion.

Maybe I do have it set up as a repeater, let me double check.

You'd set it up as a wireless bridge if you were directly connecting equipment via ethernet cable to a remote router and wanted said router to act as a bridge connecting the components connect to it to the main router wirelessly.

See:

798pxstandardbridgelarg.jpg


I assume you set yours up as a repeater to simply extend your wireless network, in which case a wireless bridge is not applicable.

My network is basically 3 daisy-chained WNDR3700's and 2 wireless bridges for certain items. Long story, but it's fantastic for me.
 

clav

Member
ASUS RT-N16 with Tomato or DD-WRT firmware satisfies the minimum for your requirements. The default firmware blows, but once you have an alternative firmware on it, it's incredibly stable and has gigabit ethernet ports.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00387G6R8/?tag=neogaf0e-20

Is 5 GHz wireless important to you? Because if it isn't, then go with the ASUS RT-N16.

I think it'll be perfect for your setup.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002SQ9ZX2/?tag=neogaf0e-20

Put DDWRT on this and it works like a charm. Even bought a second one to use as a wireless repeater.

No. Do not get this router as this has the standard 10/100 Mbps ports. bishoptl specifically said he needs gigabit ethernet ports.

Also, the first version of the RT-N12 is shaky on reliability, so I'm hesitant to give this router a solid approval for normal users.

Here's a thread talking about it:

http://www.linksysinfo.org/index.php?threads/future-of-rt-n10-and-rt-n12-support-on-tomato.35519/

Between the RT-N12 and RT-N16, if budget isn't an issue, go with the RT-N16 as it has a faster clocked Broadcom CPU (for faster transfers), a bigger RAM pool (for handling NAT and other duties with stability), and gigabit Ethernet ports.
 

bishoptl

Banstick Emeritus
Yeah, I've been reading up on the N16 this evening and looking at the Tomato USB page as well. If the firmware is as easy to flash as everyone says, that's a big selling point.

I'll sleep on it and make a decision tomorrow, unless anyone else has other recommendations. Appreciate the help!
 

clav

Member
The Tomato USB official firmware builds have been dead for about an year and supposedly are not recommended to be used.

There have been other firmware creators like Toastman and shibby who have taken up the tasks of updating the firmware on a monthly basis.

Look into the latest builds in their forums. In the link I posted earlier, Toastman and shibby were replying to the community's questions.
 
The Tomato USB official firmware builds have been dead for about an year and supposedly are not recommended to be used.

There have been other firmware creators like Toastman and shibby who have taken up the tasks of updating the firmware on a monthly basis.

Look into the latest builds in their forums. In the link I posted earlier, Toastman and shibby were replying to the community's questions.
Just wanted to mention again: the default firmware on the Netgear routers I mentioned are so good, I didn't even bother flashing them with DD-WRT. And to that end, unless there are specific features that you need and can only get in Tomato/DD-WRT, these new routers' firmware (well, I'll speak for Netgear) is outstanding.

Don't flash to alternate firmware if your only goal is stability or something. My WNDR3700's haven't been rebooted since setting them up...in February.
 

clav

Member
Just wanted to mention again: the default firmware on the Netgear routers I mentioned are so good, I didn't even bother flashing them with DD-WRT. And to that end, unless there are specific features that you need and can only get in Tomato/DD-WRT, these new routers' firmware (well, I'll speak for Netgear) is outstanding.

Don't flash to alternate firmware if your only goal is stability or something. My WNDR3700's haven't been rebooted since setting them up...in February.

I suppose you have never used an ASUS router. The default firmware on those ASUS routers are garbage.

Just took a look at the WNDR3700 internals. It uses an Atheros CPU (side note: for wifi cards, I like Atheros over Broadcom.), 64 MB of RAM, and a 16MB ROM. Does dual-band (2.4 GHz and 5.0 GHz)

In comparison, the RT-N16 has a Broadcom CPU, 128 MB of RAM, and a 32 MB ROM. Single band (2.4 GHz only)

Up to bishoptl. For the record, Netgear routers used to be garbage for quite a while 5-6 years ago although recently, I've recommended a few out of the box for some of the threads posted here.

Certainly the collaboration between Netgear and OpenDNS's backing turned my head even though you can easily setup OpenDNS for any router.
 

JoseJX

Member
I'll put in a good word for the WNDR3700 as well. I've got mine flashed with OpenWRT, with one by the TV and one by the cable modem. All of my media gets transferred over the 5GHz network between the two routers, while my portable devices connect over the 2.4GHz network. They're really solid routers and I've been really happy with them.

The firmware that comes with them is actually a build of OpenWRT anyway, so it's really pretty easy to flash to a new firmware, but quite stable. I went to OpenWRT for a bit more control over my setup, but the default firmware is still pretty awesome compared to other companies.
 
I suppose you have never used an ASUS router.

No, I haven't. :)

Those get a big stability boost from DDWRT?

idk...I just wonder why bother buying a router you need to flash to get some stability when you can buy a router like the WNDR3700 (new or refurbished for ~$80) and never have to think about flashing the firmware unless you need special features/tweaks (like wireless bridging).

I'll put in a good word for the WNDR3700 as well. I've got mine flashed with OpenWRT, with one by the TV and one by the cable modem. All of my media gets transferred over the 5GHz network between the two routers, while my portable devices connect over the 2.4GHz network. They're really solid routers and I've been really happy with them.

The firmware that comes with them is actually a build of OpenWRT anyway, so it's really pretty easy to flash to a new firmware, but quite stable. I went to OpenWRT for a bit more control over my setup, but the default firmware is still pretty awesome compared to other companies.

and that's a very fair reason to flash the firmware.
 

clav

Member
Those get a big stability boost from DDWRT?

I'm actually not the biggest fan of DD-WRT as I think DD-WRT has some really unstable builds.

That said, yes, the router's stability dramatically improves with either Tomato or DD-WRT.

Question. How well do the NetGear routers handle QoS? DD-WRT's is a pain to setup, and Tomato is really easy.
 
i just upgraded from a linksys wrt54g (G) to linksys e4200:

E4200_Main01.jpg


i have to say, i am happy as a mug. it was between this and the asus:

router_asus_clipped.jpg


i went with the linksys cause it has the broadcom chip which is easily hackable with tomato / dd-wrt firmware.

also, that old linksys wrt54g was a champ. i like linksys. i monitored the e4200 like a hawk for the first two days, looking for any tell-tale sign / excuse to return it. but nope: it's on point. i recommend it.
 

clav

Member
I thought the open firmware builds for the E4200 do not support dual band and only runs on 2.4 GHz.

Researching...

Looks like recent builds have the wireless driver that uses the 5 GHz band.
 
Question. How well do the NetGear routers handle QoS? DD-WRT's is a pain to setup, and Tomato is really easy.

screenshot20111122at242.png


screenshot20111122at243.png


screenshot20111122at245.png


screenshot20111122at245.png


just screen-shot my router. looks pretty straight-forward. I haven't set up any, but looks like all you need is the proper port for a specific app or MAC address for a computer. Alternatively, you can select a LAN port, which seems pretty cool.
 

clav

Member
Just read a tidbit on smallnetbuilder stating QoS on that router only controls uplink, and yeah looks like from the pictures, you can only control outbound traffic.

Well, I suppose for most people, they don't use it, so they don't care.

The interface looks more cumbersome than Tomato's and similar to DD-WRT's.

Thanks for sharing the pictures.
 

Vagabundo

Member
I have a Linksys WRT160NL it's been really good. Flashed it with DDWRT and it has a USB ports. I setup a SSH and I tunnel into it from work.

I'm planning on setting up a samba share, printer share and a dnla server to play stuff from the hard drive thorugh the ps3.
 

Vanillalite

Ask me about the GAF Notebook

I'd second this or else the 3700 if you can find the older model for cheaper. I personally have the 3400 which is the non gigabit version (slightly lesser specs innards wise), but it's the base line dual band. Best router I've ever owned by far (coming from a Linksys with DD-WRT). Sure I don't have any of the nix custom firmware, but I haven't needed it.

All of the dual band netgear routers seem to have nice range, great uptimes, and all the features anyone would really need. I wouldn't trade my router for anything (other than an upgrade to this new model). I can't speak highly enough on how good my netgear is.
 
Can anyone with tomato firmware care to share their settings for me? I just installed it on a linksys wrt54g but I'm having lag issues still... :/
 
*Bump*, seems there are a lot of router threads. I think this is the newest. If anyone is pretty knowledgeable about this, I'd sure be grateful for a recommendation.

I basically want a router that I can plug both my xbox and laptop into. As things are, every time I want to play xbox online, I have to unplug my laptop, and plug the xbox into the ethernet. This wouldn't be a big issue, but for some reason, I always have to do unplug the cable modem, and turn the 360 on and off, and unplug and replug the ethernet cable.....then when I'm finished playing xbox, I have to do the same crap to get back on my laptop. It's a pain in the ass, so I'm just going to get a router and (Hopefully) I would have to deal with any of that anymore. It will also be nice to be both on Xbox Live and the Internet at the same time.

Wireless isn't THAT important as I'll be going wired the majority of the time. I go to school, and live by myself, so it's just the laptop and the 360, both will almost always be wired. Only time I need to worry about wireless is when I take my computer into my bedroom, and although it's through a wall, it's like 5 feet away. I don't need big range or anything like that.

Also, I basically unplug my laptop everyday I go to class, and plug it back in when I get home, so the ability to do this seamlessly is a must (I don't want to have to mess about with unplugging and resetting and what not every time I take my computer to class).

I want the highest wired speeds possible, only need enough ports to plug in two things, don't need much range, and want good gaming functionality (As well as the ability to stream from laptop to 360 when necessary). Any recommendations?
 

clav

Member

What's happening with your current setup is:

Your cable company uses a DHCP MAC Address lease.

Every electronic device has a MAC Address, which is broadcasted over the network for other devices to see. Think of it as a street address of a house.

Your cable company has it that it will grant you IP address to the device's MAC Address that's connected to the modem. If this MAC Address changes (e.g. You swap Ethernet plugs from your laptop to your Xbox 360) while the modem is powered on, the IP address lease is not released and renewed. Therefore, the modem will be confused as it will be looking for the old MAC address (i.e. your laptop) and will require a power cycle to grant the new device an IP address to work properly.

In some other cases like ADSL for Verizon, users have to wait at least 2 hours if the MAC Address lease did not expire or if the user did not release the IP address.

tl;dnr Basically, a router would solve your problem.
----------------------------

Router recommendations

I tried to find a home consumer-geared wired router, but there is nothing that will justify the price of picking a wired-only router as you might as well pick up a wireless router as most include 4 ethernet switches to route your connection with the benefit of wireless.

As for your Ethernet ports, that won't matter for what you do. Any router will be fine.

Routers that don't require third party firmware

You can use the one that our friendly mod bishoptl picked up (Netgear N600 WNDR3700) if you don't want to deal with firmware flashing. It's a powerful router that has dual-band and gigabit ports although it'll be expensive.

I've seen some users on this forum use the Netgear N300 (WNR2000) without any complications as well.

One of my favorite tech users here, Brettison, uses a WNDR3400, so I'll take his word for it. I've seen this router on sale at some one day a deal sites for about $25-$30 recently.

Suggestions:

I would pick among these three if you're not comfortable flashing custom firmware. Netgear runs on a variant of OpenWRT, a Linux-based firmware, so it's reliable.

Routers that require third party firmware flashing

If you want to save money and are comfortable overwriting a router's firmware, then you have a lot of choices as I'm a bit more knowledgeable in this field.

Suggestions:



**RT-N12 has a revision overhaul with version B. Supposedly version 1 is very picky about a clear wireless channel as it's susceptible to neighboring wireless APs and uses an older Broadcom CPU (BCM4717) as opposed to a BCM5XXX one in the B revision. I believe version 1 uses the same CPU that's on the Linksys E1000 models.

***I believe there was an overheating problem in older versions of the Linksys E2000 routers, so people who went on third party firmware were strongly urged to downgrade the CPU clock speed to 300 MHz. The newer units do not have this problem. I wrote this in case your refurbished unit is an old chipset unit.

With these routers, you will have to flash over to a custom Linux firmware to make the most out of them. Popular choices are DD-WRT or Tomato.

http://www.dd-wrt.com/site/support/router-database
http://www.tomatousb.org/

Currently, TomatoUSB official firmware has not been updated and has been taken over with unofficial releases under authors, causing different variants. The known authors in the community are Victek, Toastman, and shibby. You can find them hanging out in the Linksyinfo.org forums.

Flashing firmware can vary for each hardware, so I won't write it for now. The general principle is uploading a firmware file preferably in recovery mode and then reset the NVRAM thoroughly (i.e. reset defaults) after the firmware flash is complete.

----------------------------

I prefer ASUS routers as they're one of the last remaining manufacturers continuing to use external antennas.

----------------------------

Reliable routers I have used:

  • Linksys WRT54GL (aka WRT54G v1, v2, v3, v4. overclocked this to 250 MHz with no additional cooling)
  • ASUS WL-520GU (not overclockable [locked at 200 MHz]. USB port useful for versatile homebrew mods: Wifi Radio, Network printer, Hard drive network share)
  • ASUS RT-N12 (when running on 20 MHz for wireless N and on the least congested channel (1,6, or 11). Wireless connections would drop without this setup.)
  • ASUS RT-N13U (OK with DD-wrt, but it uses a RALink chipset and range is passable)


Shitty routers I've used:
  • Belkin
  • Trendnet TEW-432BRP (it was free after rebate. very little ram. required daily reboot)
  • Linksys WRT54G v6 (aka WRT54G v5) (even DD-WRT micro couldn't save it)
  • Netgear WGR614
 
Excellent, quality post

Thank you so much for this! Wow, this is exactly what I need.

For the ones with a USB, does that mean that instead of constantly plugging and unplugging my external hd into my laptop, I will be able to just plug it into the router, and access all of the files that way? Also, will my 360 be able to access those files just the same?


I like these two, and there doesn't seem to be any different between them outside of price. The bottom one needs one of the firmware updates though. I'm assuming that, that isn't too difficult? Also, does it void a warranty?
 

clav

Member
Yes. Firmware mods void the router's warranty although it's up to the manufacturer to see if they will honor RMAs still. I believe some do, but don't take my word for it since I like fixing stuff myself.

I ran into a brick firmware upgrade experience with one router and had to learn to make a JTAG cable over RS-232 (serial port) to unbrick it.

The ASUS ones I've listed are nearly unbrickable since they have a small recovery boot partition can always be booted by unpowering the unit and holding down the reset button while plugging the router in. From there, a user can TFTP an image to flash the router back to default firmware or another firmware and then using the web interface, reset the defaults once again to ensure the NVRAM is cleared.

I'll tell you this up front so you know what you're getting into.

The Linksys routers aren't so brick-proof if something goes wrong as I think you'll need to build a JTAG cable or RMA it.

---------------

As for USB, the stuff can be finicky as the router has to support the filesystem of the hard drive through drivers (e.g. NTFS, HFS+) and usually only available on custom firmware.

Side note: The Xbox 360 uses a 100 Mbit Ethernet port, so getting a router with Gigabit Ethernet ports might be overkill although perhaps the next video game consoles (i.e. PS4, Xbox 720/Infinity/Loop/T-1000, Wii-U) might be using better ports with built-in wifi N.
 
Thanks for all your help claviertekky, I think I'll go with the netgear. A bit more expensive, but I like the feature set, and 40 bucks isn't worth messing with the warranty for me. I believe that my laptop has gigabyte port, so, it won't be going to waste on that I guess.

Hopefully the USB stuff works out okay.
 

Chaplain

Member
I need some help. I am using the D-Link DGL-4500 Extreme-N router. For some reason, even though the router is less than 60 feet from our sofa, our laptop and tablet barley pick up the signal. Most of the time, we can't even connect to the router.

I am so tired of messing with the settings that I am leaning on just buying a new router. Does anyone have any suggestions?
 

DietRob

i've been begging for over 5 years.
I feel kinda ripped off that when I searched Motorola SB5120 in Bing I just got pictures of the stupid router.

Oh, sweet Jesus, necrobump that's why.
 

clav

Member
I need some help. I am using the D-Link DGL-4500 Extreme-N router. For some reason, even though the router is less than 60 feet from our sofa, our laptop and tablet barley pick up the signal. Most of the time, we can't even connect to the router.

I am so tired of messing with the settings that I am leaning on just buying a new router. Does anyone have any suggestions?

Apparently the Internet hates that router, too. I only buy routers that have Linux firmware support.

Take a look around this thread.

Most people are buying the Netgear N600 WNDR3700.

Do you have a budget?

I recently picked up a refurbished Linksys E3000 router for $30. Works fine with Tomato and DD-WRT.
 

giga

Member
tekky I have a bricked E2000 from installing the wrong firmware on it. Do you know where I can get some good instructions on how to unbrick it using that nokia cable?

The dd-wrt forums are all over the place with no clear and concise step by step guide. Cheers!
 

Chris R

Member
Could have used this thread yesterday, oh well. I'm finally getting internet at my place so I needed a router. Picked up a $30 D-Link from Amazon with the intention that it would last me until a quality 802.11ac router comes along with all the bells and whistles.
 

clav

Member
tekky I have a bricked E2000 from installing the wrong firmware on it. Do you know where I can get some good instructions on how to unbrick it using that nokia cable?

The dd-wrt forums are all over the place with no clear and concise step by step guide. Cheers!

Before reading the rest of this post, are all the lights of the ports on the router solid colors when immediately powered or is only the power LED flashing?

If it's the first, then your router is totally bricked, and I'm not quite sure if you can solve it from here. If that were an ASUS router for the same scenario, you can still unbrick it.

If only the power LED is flashing, then read on and be sure to read everything before starting.

-----------------------------

I've only JTAGed once on an Atheros based router. My setup was a breadboard, a MAXIM IC sample (MAX323) to convert 5V to 3.3V (free chips can be ordered on the website), an old PATA (IDE) ribbon cable, wires, and a serial port. Soldered the PATA cable to the JTAG pinouts on the router's PCB. Connected the rest on the breadboard with serial port wire leads.

That said, I'll try my best to make a guide that's easy to understand.

I believe the setup is similar for all routers. The Nokia way you described is a hack to eliminate using the IC and a serial port, supposedly making the recovery setup less complicated.

Also, the Nokia way uses a specific serial pinout to the side of the router, not the middle desoldered JTAG port.

-----------------------------

Tools required:

1. Solder + Soldering iron.
2. Wire cutters/strippers.
3. Screwdriver with appropriate Phillips heads
4. Multimeter
5. Nokia DKU-5 cable (Serial to USB, preferably official OEM version)*
6. A computer running Windows (although equivalent commands/programs can be used for Mac/Linux) and a free USB port
7. Tape (or sticky labels) + pen

*I've seen some guides that use the Nokia CA-42 cable, but I read new variants of this cable only have three wires and would need an external power source to drive 3.3V (e.g. two new AA/AAA batteries). I'm a bit confused since the DD-WRT serial recovery wiki (which is rarely updated) says you can use CA-42 cables.

Source:
http://buffalo.nas-central.org/index.php/Use_a_Nokia_Serial_Cable_on_an_ARM9_Linkstation
http://www.dd-wrt.com/wiki/index.php/Serial_Recovery

OpenWRT guide on info about serial cables: http://wiki.openwrt.org/doc/hardware/port.serial


-----------------------------

Time required: 1-3 hours

-----------------------------

[ ] Stage One: Test the Nokia cable to see if the computer can detect the TTL serial connection.

1. Plug the Nokia cable into an open USB port of the computer.

2. Install drivers as necessary to detect COM ports. This is necessary so that when the connections are made, the computer can talk to the router.

If the cable does not show up on the computer, purchase a working cable or try a different computer.

3. Determine the COM port used on the computer for Serial. On Windows, you can easily tell from Device Manager under "Ports."

-----------------------------

[ ] Stage Two: Cut and identify pins on the Nokia cable

1. Using your wire cutters, cut the proprietary Nokia pin port connector from about 1-2 inches away. Separate and strip the wires on both ends. Be sure to leave enough space to still identify the corresponding colors.

2. Because of the small possibility that a cable can use different wire colors, we need to test which color lead corresponds with which.

If you refer to this page: http://buffalo.nas-central.org/index.php/Use_a_Nokia_Serial_Cable_on_an_ARM9_Linkstation and used an OEM cable, then perhaps the wiring colors are the same.

You can read more about it in the serial recovery wiki: http://www.dd-wrt.com/wiki/index.php/Serial_Recovery

The next step will guide you which pins you are interested.

3. Using a multimeter, use the test probe (beep) function to see which colored wire leads up to where.

wdbVf.jpg


You're interested in:

Pin 4 : 3.3 V (RED on DKU-5)
Pin 6 : RX (GREEN on DKU-5)
Pin 7 : TX (WHITE on DKU-5)
Pin 8 : GROUND (BLACK on DKU-5)

I don't have this cable, so you're going to have test yourself if those colors are right. If not, mark them appropriately using small pieces of tape (or sticky labels) and a pen.

-----------------------------

[ ] Stage Three: Open the router and solder pins.

1. Ground yourself. Touch a door knob or the casing of an unpowered power supply unit before handling electronics. Wear an Anti-ESD strap if you have one.

2. Unplug power and disassemble the E2000 router. Remove antenna wires and necessary screws using the screw driver and take the PCB board out of the housing.

3. Reverse the PCB over to reveal the JTAG port and side serial debugging port.

nF0TR.jpg


4. Solder: Nokia Cable | Router Serial

Pin 4 (RED) | Pin 1 (3.3 Volts)
Pin 6 (GRN) (RX) | Pin 2 (TX)
Pin 7 (WHI) (TX) | Pin 3 (RX)
Pin 8 (BLK) | Pin 5 (GROUND)

Note RX pairs with TX and vice versa. These connections are how the device receives and transmits info to another device.

5. Test the solder connections using a multimeter probe.

-----------------------------

[ ] Stage Four: Booting into the router via serial and flash back to stock firmware

Original Linksys E2000 firmware: http://homesupport.cisco.com/en-us/wireless/linksys/E2000

Will finish later.

I used hyperterminal in Windows XP, but I believe you can also do this with PUTTY. I'm sure you can do that the same for Linux and Mac in Terminal.

The basics are to plug the router in and run a terminal console configured to listen to the serial COM port. Quit the boot-up command using CTRL+C. Then you can send an image (which will take about 40-45 minutes to do) via serial and reboot.

If something's not working, then check your solder connections.



**********Made some corrections on the Pin-outs. Please check again if you printed out the one earlier.**********
 

giga

Member
Awesome stuff man! Really appreciate it and hopefully I can fix it. It's only the blue power light that's blinking.
 

clav

Member
Awesome stuff man! Really appreciate it and hopefully I can fix it. It's only the blue power light that's blinking.

I found a complete guide from the dd-wrt forums. Uses the Nokia CA-42 cable.

Have a look:www.dd-wrt.com/phpBB2/download.php?id=18465

Different router, but the directions and internals are similar. You can use the dd-wrt firmware if you wish not to flash back to stock as build 14929 is the stable Broadcom build.

-----------------

There's also a Cisco serial cord for models that have a serial pin outs underneath the WAN port.

I don't know if your E2000 qualifies, but here's a picture for reference.

http://i.imgur.com/x36G5.jpg


edit: this cable is for specific Cisco equipment, not the consumer brand routers.
 

giga

Member
I found a complete guide from the dd-wrt forums. Uses the Nokia CA-42 cable.

Have a look:www.dd-wrt.com/phpBB2/download.php?id=18465

Different router, but the directions and internals are similar. You can use the dd-wrt firmware if you wish not to flash back to stock as build 14929 is the stable Broadcom build.

-----------------

There's also a Cisco serial cord for models that have a serial pin outs underneath the WAN port.

I don't know if your E2000 qualifies, but here's a picture for reference.

x36G5.jpg
Whoa, even better since I would rather not open up the router. I just checked the WAN port with a flashlight and I can definitely see the green pcb and the four copper connections. That Cisco DB9 cable is also only $3 on ebay too.

Basically exactly like this: http://www.dd-wrt.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=62998 I'll follow both your and the linked guide, thanks! :)
 

clav

Member
Whoa, even better since I would rather not open up the router. I just checked the WAN port with a flashlight and I can definitely see the green pcb and the four copper connections. That Cisco DB9 cable is also only $3 on ebay too.

Basically exactly like this: http://www.dd-wrt.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=62998 I'll follow both your and the linked guide, thanks! :)

The more I think about it, I think the DB9 cable was designed for Cisco routers that had the pinouts as RJ-45 to RS-232, not below the RJ-45 connector, so it wouldn't work.

You still need to solder the connections directly to the board some how. The pinouts below the WAN port make it so you don't have to open up your unit.

The thread you linked confirms my suspicions, so I will remove my thoughts on how to make this process easier.

You still need a RS-232 device to translate the signal. Hence the Nokia cables are still required.
 

giga

Member
Ah damn I see. The thread has some other DIY solutions so I might try those as well. If all else fails, then I'll just open it up.
 

Chaplain

Member
Apparently the Internet hates that router, too. I only buy routers that have Linux firmware support.

Take a look around this thread.

Most people are buying the Netgear N600 WNDR3700.

Do you have a budget?

I recently picked up a refurbished Linksys E3000 router for $30. Works fine with Tomato and DD-WRT.

Ty for all of your help. I went with the Netgear N600 WNDR4000 because of the gigabit ethernet ports.
 

TheExodu5

Banned
The Netgear WDNR3700 is great, but I've seen reports of faulty antennas, and the new V3 uses a different CPU, IIRC. The Asus N16 is supposed to be good, but only in the case that you replace the stock firmware.
 
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