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NeoGAF Camera Equipment Thread | MK II

Bokeh is all about aperture, focal length and distance from subject and subject distance from background if I'm not mistaken. Sensor size also seems to come into play as well.

Sensor size because each focal length basically still has the same DoF at a given f-stop, despite the crop. So a 25mm on a m4/3 has the same DoF as a 25mm on a FF camera.

Googling suggests you can basically multiply the f-stop by the crop factor to get the equivalent f-stop. So a f1.8 aperture on 25mm m4/3 will be the same as f3.6 on 50mm FF.
 
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Deleted member 17706

Unconfirmed Member
Sensor size because each focal length basically still has the same DoF at a given f-stop, despite the crop. So a 25mm on a m4/3 has the same DoF as a 25mm on a FF camera.

Indeed, but the framing/angle of view of 25mm on m4/3 is equivalent to 50mm on full frame, whereas 25mm on full frame is a pretty wide lens.

I think the iPhone 7 has a 4mm lens or something on it, but it looks like a 28mm lens on a full frame camera.
 
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Deleted member 17706

Unconfirmed Member
Right, I am just talking about bokeh/depth of field.

Sure, I was just trying to supplement what you said to help explain why people say full frame gives shallower depth of field/better bokeh. Technically, that's not really correct. There's nothing inherent about the sensor size that makes the bokeh balls bigger or whatever, but it's true when you compare across "equivalent" focal length lenses to get the same angle of view/framing.

To get the same depth of field as a 50mm 1.8 lens using a full frame camera would require a 25mm f0.9 lens on micro 4/3rds, which I don't think even exists!

Anyway, not meaning to correct you or anything, just provide more detail.
 

Rentahamster

Rodent Whores
How does one obtain excellent bokeh on micro 4/3rds? Is it just increasing the length of the lens for telephoto and shortening the distance between the subject & I?

If you're asking how to get more blur in the background (because there is also the "quality" of the blur, which is a whole other can of worms), then all you need to do is one or a combination of the following.

1. Use a wider aperture, aka lower f-stop, aka shoot wide open.

2. Focus more closely. You can do this by using macro lenses, a magnification filter, or extension tubes.

3. Use a longer lens, aka zoom in more.
 
Sure, I was just trying to supplement what you said to help explain why people say full frame gives shallower depth of field/better bokeh. Technically, that's not really correct. There's nothing inherent about the sensor size that makes the bokeh balls bigger or whatever, but it's true when you compare across "equivalent" focal length lenses to get the same angle of view/framing.

To get the same depth of field as a 50mm 1.8 lens using a full frame camera would require a 25mm f0.9 lens on micro 4/3rds, which I don't think even exists!

Anyway, not meaning to correct you or anything, just provide more detail.

There's the Voigtländer Nokton line with f/0.95 apertures. Mf of course. But that just as a side note.
 
Every one of you are amazing and I can't thank you all enough for answering my trove of questions. It really helped out!

Also, I may just focus on renting the Ursa Mini 4.6K Pro or RED for my next project. Any suggested sites that you deem to be good for someone who is completely new to professional film-grade cameras? Never operated a Blackmagic, Arri or RED, haha.
 
If you're really serious about video, the two things that make the most noticeable difference in quality are actually audio and lighting, rather than the video quality itself.
 
Lens is a biggie. Shoot with fast primes if you can.

Eh, I don't know. Unless you're really going for the super-shallow-DoF/not-quite-nailed-focus look, using super large apertures with video is usually a huge hassle and much less practical than most people think. Anything with any amount of movement at moderate distances ends up pretty much requiring a dedicated focus puller else you'll get footage that's never quite there.

I'd rather go for a set of flexible fixed f/2.8 zooms, myself, preferably something that's got a large focus throw. Maybe a prime or two for specialty stuff, like a super tele or an ultra wide.
 
Every one of you are amazing and I can't thank you all enough for answering my trove of questions. It really helped out!

Also, I may just focus on renting the Ursa Mini 4.6K Pro or RED for my next project. Any suggested sites that you deem to be good for someone who is completely new to professional film-grade cameras? Never operated a Blackmagic, Arri or RED, haha.

Rent from a local company that you can physically drive to, so it depends on where you live.

Never move the rented equipment to the location out of their cases, and be wary if they don't give you everything in separate professional-grade cases. All these cases can take up a lot of space and labor so don't rent equipment that requires a bigger crew than what you'll have.
 
Rent from a local company that you can physically drive to, so it depends on where you live.

Never move the rented equipment to the location out of their cases, and be wary if they don't give you everything in separate professional-grade cases. All these cases can take up a lot of space and labor so don't rent equipment that requires a bigger crew than what you'll have.

Once I move to Nashville in October, I'll have lensrental.com, but their equipment (They told me) is in Memphis. They told me that they can show me stuff about the camera in-person and have a number I can call to pick the ears of their technicians. Going to nab the Ursa 4.6K Pro or the Arri Mini.
 

Antagon

Member
Hey guys, I'm looking into buying an entry level DSLR as a gift for my wife. Main reason is because she's pregnant, but besides baby photos for holidays as well.

I'm mostly looking at the Pentax K-50 and Nikon D3300. Someone has an almost new K-50 (1585 clicks) with the 18-55mm WR lens for 300 Euros. New I can't find them for under 429,- so it seems a great deal. He's also selling two 50-300mm lenses, a 50-200mm SMC DA ED WR for 100 and an older model (exact type isn't mentioned). I can't find any used Nikon D3300 camera's nearby, so the only option is new, which would cost me 414,- with an 18-55 mm lens.

Since I'm new to DSLR's I wonder if anyone would dissuade me from buying second hand. The seller seems to be honest (mentions some small blotches on the screen) and I can try it out at his home, but it'd obviously be hard to test all the features for me.
 

RuGalz

Member
Hey guys, I'm looking into buying an entry level DSLR as a gift for my wife. Main reason is because she's pregnant, but besides baby photos for holidays as well.

I'm mostly looking at the Pentax K-50 and Nikon D3300. Someone has an almost new K-50 (1585 clicks) with the 18-55mm WR lens for 300 Euros. New I can't find them for under 429,- so it seems a great deal. He's also selling two 50-300mm lenses, a 50-200mm SMC DA ED WR for 100 and an older model (exact type isn't mentioned). I can't find any used Nikon D3300 camera's nearby, so the only option is new, which would cost me 414,- with an 18-55 mm lens.

Since I'm new to DSLR's I wonder if anyone would dissuade me from buying second hand. The seller seems to be honest (mentions some small blotches on the screen) and I can try it out at his home, but it'd obviously be hard to test all the features for me.

Nothing wrong with buying used especially if you can test it out. K-50 is a solid camera (more comparable to D5xxx series than D3xxx series) and if you pair it up with 2 WR lenses you won't have to worry about rain and dust and splashes from the toddler too much. (i.e. golden shower from the kid lol) Prices are a bit higher in EU so I don't really know the norm but see if he can bring the 50-200's price down a bit as a package. 300 EU for K-50 seems like a good deal. 50-300 is better lens optically but is heavier and only the newer version has WR. I would personally consider 50-200 WR IF the 50-300 isn't WR. On the other hand, you may prefer 50-200 anyway because it's so much smaller. You will have plenty of stuff to carry with a baby anyway. It's a 'kit' lens but still produces pretty good result.

This is from 50-200.

PK5_2181

So I think make sure all the buttons and wheels work obviously and take some pictures, test out the flash. It'd be even better if you can view the result on larger screen to see if things are focusing correctly. Take a picture of blue sky to see if anything weird is on the camera sensor. There are more technical things to check based on the list here but some of them might be a bit over your head since you are new to DSLR or simply not applicable.
https://petapixel.com/2010/10/08/checklist-for-buying-used-cameras-and-lenses-on-craigslist/
 

Thraktor

Member
So I may have gone a little bit overboard on manual focus lenses for my new A7II:


Recent acquisitions by Owen Rooney, on Flickr

For reference:

Canon nFD 50mm f/1.4
Canon nFD 135mm f/2.8
Leica Elmarit-R 24mm f/2.8
Leica Summicron-R 50mm f/2
Leica Summicron-R 90mm f/2
Leica Vario-Elmar-R 35-70mm f/4

I had planned to take a little bit longer building things up, but I found an incredible deal locally for the Leica R mount kit (plus an R8 with motor drive) that I couldn't really pass up. It's all in extremely good condition, too.

Hey guys, I'm looking into buying an entry level DSLR as a gift for my wife. Main reason is because she's pregnant, but besides baby photos for holidays as well.

I'm mostly looking at the Pentax K-50 and Nikon D3300. Someone has an almost new K-50 (1585 clicks) with the 18-55mm WR lens for 300 Euros. New I can't find them for under 429,- so it seems a great deal. He's also selling two 50-300mm lenses, a 50-200mm SMC DA ED WR for 100 and an older model (exact type isn't mentioned). I can't find any used Nikon D3300 camera's nearby, so the only option is new, which would cost me 414,- with an 18-55 mm lens.

Since I'm new to DSLR's I wonder if anyone would dissuade me from buying second hand. The seller seems to be honest (mentions some small blotches on the screen) and I can try it out at his home, but it'd obviously be hard to test all the features for me.

I buy virtually all my camera gear second hand nowadays. It's really just a matter of looking over and testing the kit in person if at all possible. With a DSLR you mainly want to test that the autofocus works properly, the metering works (i.e. test on automatic mode and make sure the photos are properly exposed), the shutter and mirror assembly work (just take a bunch of photos with it), and that there isn't any obvious physical damage to it. At just 1.6K shutter count, I'd be surprised if it wasn't in good working order.

As RuGalz says above, the Pentax is a solid option, particularly thanks to the weather sealing (which Nikon and Canon only include in higher-end models). That said, it may be worth looking at something along the lines of the Sony A5100. It doesn't have weather sealing, but being a mirrorless it has an autofocus option which tracks faces to keep them in focus (which works in video mode, too). If you're taking photos of a baby that would make it quite a bit easier to reliably get in-focus shots.
 

Thraktor

Member
Couldn't he get an NEX7 or something for very close to the A5100? Maybe even an A6000 if he looks hard enough?

Quite possibly. The reason I mentioned the A5100 is that it's a bit more recent, so I assume it should perform better with face tracking. DPReview are also recommending it in that price bracket for its autofocus performance. That said, I don't have any first-hand experience with Sony's APS-C cameras, so I can't really say specifically which model is the best option, just that it's worth considering a camera with face tracking.

Speaking of which, I believe the Canons with dual-pixel autofocus do very well with face tracking too, but I don't think that's trickled down to that price point yet. Plus, you're not able to use it with the viewfinder, which kind of defeats the purpose of using a DSLR.
 

Antagon

Member
Thanks for the advice! He's got both a DA and a DA L WR for sale. So the DA seems to be the better option, right? The lenses will both be 75,- if I buy the camera as well.
 

RuGalz

Member
Thanks for the advice! He's got both a DA and a DA L WR for sale. So the DA seems to be the better option, right? The lenses will both be 75,- if I buy the camera as well.

Personally I'd go for a WR setup. But I'm outdoor a lot and run into rain frequently depending on where I travel, so YMMV. Optically there's no difference between DA or DA L. I think DA L lacks lens hood.
 

Antagon

Member
Personally I'd go for a WR setup. But I'm outdoor a lot and run into rain frequently depending on where I travel, so YMMV. Optically there's no difference between DA or DA L. I think DA L lacks lens hood.

Sorry, my mistake. Both are WR. He also has a non-WR DA 18-200mm lens for sale, but I already wrote that one of.
 

Prez

Member
Anyone have a suggestion for a cheap (<$200) used Canon body? Or should I just stick with my 20D that works perfectly fine?
 

Ty4on

Member
You can't scrape together about 350 for a 5D? I think everything is hot garbage at that price.

Prices of old APS-C cameras are quite low so you can find some ok older cameras for that price. The market for high end APS-C cameras was also much bigger back then with FF being so new.

The 5D while having decent IQ is still a really old camera. You don't wanna push ISO much above 1600/3200, there's no live view or video, kinda awful screen and it's just 3fps.
 
Prices of old APS-C cameras are quite low so you can find some ok older cameras for that price. The market for high end APS-C cameras was also much bigger back then with FF being so new.

The 5D while having decent IQ is still a really old camera. You don't wanna push ISO much above 1600/3200, there's no live view or video, kinda awful screen and it's just 3fps.
True, though I heard it's still pretty decent. I was going to recommend a 50D to be honest, but price wise there's only a few bucks between them.
 

Thraktor

Member
The main issue with the 5D is the cost of lenses. If you're only going to use it with a 50mm f1.8 it's not that bad, but almost any other decent lens will cost more than the camera.
 

sankt-Antonio

:^)--?-<
Really hope the rumors about the A7III featuring the same autofocus as the A9 are true. This would elevate mirrorless at reasonable prices in a new dimension.

Enough so that I would give them another chance.
 

Thraktor

Member
True, that full frame tax.

Yeah, when I first got my 5D MkII I was excited about moving to full frame, until I realised I couldn't really afford much beyond my Sigma 50mm. Not a bad combo, as I typically shoot at around 50mm anyway, but it definitely limited my ability to experiment with different focal lengths.

The main reason I switched over to Sony was that it was the only option which allowed me to stick with full frame while substantially reducing my lens costs by going with older manual focus lenses. Those six lenses above altogether cost only a little bit more than a single modern standard zoom like the 24-70mm f/4 would have, but between them they give me a lot of flexibility about how I want to shoot. And if I feel like there's another focal length I'd like to try out, say a 35mm f/2, then there's usually a good quality Canon/Minolta/etc lens that can be had for under €100.
 
Yeah, when I first got my 5D MkII I was excited about moving to full frame, until I realised I couldn't really afford much beyond my Sigma 50mm. Not a bad combo, as I typically shoot at around 50mm anyway, but it definitely limited my ability to experiment with different focal lengths.

The main reason I switched over to Sony was that it was the only option which allowed me to stick with full frame while substantially reducing my lens costs by going with older manual focus lenses. Those six lenses above altogether cost only a little bit more than a single modern standard zoom like the 24-70mm f/4 would have, but between them they give me a lot of flexibility about how I want to shoot. And if I feel like there's another focal length I'd like to try out, say a 35mm f/2, then there's usually a good quality Canon/Minolta/etc lens that can be had for under €100.
That's the best part of mirrorless to be honest. If you stick to old MF lenses you're golden. I'm contemplating at some point getting some older Nikon AIS glass for my Fuji.
 

Prez

Member
You can't scrape together about 350 for a 5D? I think everything is hot garbage at that price.

I can but it's not worth it for me as I don't use my camera that much. Just wondering how much improvement I can get without spending too much. The lenses I have are a Canon 50mm and 24mm prime.

I only paid €40 for the 20D btw.
 
D

Deleted member 17706

Unconfirmed Member
Is there much of a difference in image quality using old manual lenses vs. modern day ones on Sony FF?

Really depends on the lens and what kind of image quality you're looking for.

The older ones probably won't be as "corner-to-corner sharp" as a high-end modern lens, but they might be better when it comes to things like micro contrast.
 
I can but it's not worth it for me as I don't use my camera that much. Just wondering how much improvement I can get without spending too much. The lenses I have are a Canon 50mm and 24mm prime.

I only paid €40 for the 20D btw.
Then just compare what you got to a Canon 40 or 50D, the 60D, might be too expensive for you. Granted the 60D is a really good step up into modern tech camera. I see one on Ebay for $400.
 
Is there much of a difference in image quality using old manual lenses vs. modern day ones on Sony FF?

There's definitely a difference, but it depends on what you want.

Newer lenses are all about being sharp. Corner to corner sharp with the f stop wide open.

Older lenses are not always as sharp, but they do have character.

I have an a6000 and a Sigma 30mm 2.8 and a Sigma 60mm 2.8. The latter is so incredibly sharp, I can zoom in and see individual peach hairs on my daughter's face. It's quite incredible considering the price.

I also have a very small collection of manual Minolta lenses. I like to use the 50 1.7 for very low light shots. Opening it up wide open, things are a bit hazy and smooth. I like the look for certain occasions, but not all (manual focusing is terrible when you have kids, lol).

I also have the Minolta 35-70 f3.5 micro lens which is a really like zoom lens for the era, but again, it's not as sharp as my modern lenses.

Then yet again, the Minoltas cost me 50 to 70 euros and the 60mm was about 4 times that.
 

Ty4on

Member
The main issue with the 5D is the cost of lenses. If you're only going to use it with a 50mm f1.8 it's not that bad, but almost any other decent lens will cost more than the camera.

Good lenses are expensive on any system. No doubt you have to factor in the cost of them, but I think it's wrong to say everything is expensive.

Canon EF has some cheaper, still decent lenses like the 85mm f1.8 and 40mm f2.8 and there are cheaper options if you can settle for less IQ. The old Sigma 15-30 seems to be a good wide angle for the price.
Standard wise you can go really cheap for the 28-105 which is probably better optically than typical APS-C kit lenses and has USM or step up to the 24-105 IS STM which looks like a decent, if slow, lens. There are probably some Sigmas and Tamrons I'm missing here, but for sharpness a used 24-70 f4L is expensive, but not stupidly so. It's sharper than the 24-105 f4L too.
For tele zooms there's the old 70-300 IS or you could step up to the Tamron 70-300 VC. The Canon 70-200 f4 without IS is not that expensive used either if you want something sharper.

None of them set the world on fire, but I think they're reasonably competitive and you can make a decent budget FF setup for $1000. The EF mount is almost 30 years old so there's plenty of stuff I didn't cover, but look them up before buying as there are some dogs. In the 1990s a 24-70 was seen as wide so not surprisingly they didn't do a great job with wide angle zooms.
If you want low light then obviously a more modern APS-C with faster lenses will do a better job, especially if you get something 2010 or later like the Pentax K5 and Nikon D7000 (or smaller brothers with the same sensor).
 

Thraktor

Member
Is there much of a difference in image quality using old manual lenses vs. modern day ones on Sony FF?

It really depends on the lens. A good vintage lens will outperform a mediocre modern lens, but wouldn't touch something like a Sigma Art in terms of corner-to-corner sharpness at wide apertures. That said, there are a few general trends:

- More precise manufacturing techniques for the glass itself have meant that new lenses are, in general, sharper.
- Lens coatings have improved, so flare is less of an issue for modern lenses (even relatively cheap ones).
- Computer aided design has changed the design process of new lenses, which I feel has made the biggest difference to zoom lenses. In general older zoom lenses aren't great (although there are some notable exceptions), but improved quite a lot from the 90s onwards. The complexity of zoom designs probably made it quite difficult to design good ones pre-CAD. This hasn't had quite as much of an impact on prime lenses, as they tend to have simpler designs. Many modern primes still use a double-gauss design, for example, which is over 120 years old now. That said, the newest high end primes from the likes of Zeiss, Leica and Sigma, have likely benefited quite considerably from CAD, as they're using more complex designs to control for distortion, CA, etc, while retaining an extremely high degree of sharpness.

Philipreeve.net is a good resource for reviews of both old and new lenses on the full-frame Sonys, with comparisons at the end of the reviews which often include both modern and vintage lenses.

Good lenses are expensive on any system. No doubt you have to factor in the cost of them, but I think it's wrong to say everything is expensive.

Canon EF has some cheaper, still decent lenses like the 85mm f1.8 and 40mm f2.8 and there are cheaper options if you can settle for less IQ. The old Sigma 15-30 seems to be a good wide angle for the price.
Standard wise you can go really cheap for the 28-105 which is probably better optically than typical APS-C kit lenses and has USM or step up to the 24-105 IS STM which looks like a decent, if slow, lens. There are probably some Sigmas and Tamrons I'm missing here, but for sharpness a used 24-70 f4L is expensive, but not stupidly so. It's sharper than the 24-105 f4L too.
For tele zooms there's the old 70-300 IS or you could step up to the Tamron 70-300 VC. The Canon 70-200 f4 without IS is not that expensive used either if you want something sharper.

None of them set the world on fire, but I think they're reasonably competitive and you can make a decent budget FF setup for $1000. The EF mount is almost 30 years old so there's plenty of stuff I didn't cover, but look them up before buying as there are some dogs. In the 1990s a 24-70 was seen as wide so not surprisingly they didn't do a great job with wide angle zooms.
If you want low light then obviously a more modern APS-C with faster lenses will do a better job, especially if you get something 2010 or later like the Pentax K5 and Nikon D7000 (or smaller brothers with the same sensor).

I'm more talking in the context of a 20D owner who only wants to spend a couple of hundred dollars for an upgrade. They may be willing to stretch a bit to a 5D, but probably not that much further for lenses on top of that. APS-C cameras, by comparison, can often be found with kit zooms at little to no extra cost, and most modern kit lenses are actually decent enough. If you're talking a ~$1K budget then you can definitely piece together a few decent lenses on top of a 5D body.

The 28-105 is actually a pretty good deal, though, I hadn't realised it was available that cheap until I just looked it up. I'd be a little wary of the Sigmas and Tamrons from that era, though, as they reverse-engineered the EF mount and in many cases they don't work properly with newer (i.e. digital) Canon bodies, for example not autofocusing or an inability to stop down the aperture.
 

Ty4on

Member
I'm more talking in the context of a 20D owner who only wants to spend a couple of hundred dollars for an upgrade. They may be willing to stretch a bit to a 5D, but probably not that much further for lenses on top of that. APS-C cameras, by comparison, can often be found with kit zooms at little to no extra cost, and most modern kit lenses are actually decent enough. If you're talking a ~$1K budget then you can definitely piece together a few decent lenses on top of a 5D body.

The 28-105 is actually a pretty good deal, though, I hadn't realised it was available that cheap until I just looked it up. I'd be a little wary of the Sigmas and Tamrons from that era, though, as they reverse-engineered the EF mount and in many cases they don't work properly with newer (i.e. digital) Canon bodies, for example not autofocusing or an inability to stop down the aperture.
Ah, yeah. You need to spend a few hundred dollars probably so it isn't the $350 FF setup it looked like.

I don't have experience with the 28-105, but after researching various A-mount zooms I went for the Minolta equivalent (basically same specs) and apart from vignetting it seems to perform well on film. It's in the perfect bargain spot, expensive enough new to be decent, but too bad to be desirable on the used markets and cheap enough to be common. High end lenses like the 28-70 f2.8L and 80-200 f2.8L are still really expensive.

That Sigma/Tamron tip is a good one. I didn't know about that, but I know a Sigma 400mm for A-mount has weak autofocus gears which anything but a first gen A-mount camera will break. Definitely a good idea to do some research if you come across one.
The Tamron I mentioned is quite recent so it should work well. I think the Sigma is from early digital age. Iirc it was used as a standard zoom in the early APS-C years like a lot of cheap ultrawides.
 

Ty4on

Member
whats everyone's opinion of the new Canon 6D mark II
It'll probably make a great camera for someone who wants a cheaper FF EF mount, but it was a disappointing upgrade.

Photo wise it looks good, but doesn't set the world on fire and isn't any cheaper than the competition. The D750 probably beats it in autofocus, K1 has a better sensor and the A7ii is much smaller.

Video wise it's decent with great AF and a tilting screen, but no 4K in 2017 is disappointing.
 

snaffles

Member
whats everyone's opinion of the new Canon 6D mark II

I like it, if I was going to buy a full frame dslr it would definitely be on my list. Decent auto focus, flip out touch screen, reasonably fast fps. I don't particularly need it to be higher resolution for video or stills so 26mp no 4k isn't an issue for me. Would probably wait to get it on sale/used though, wouldn't pay $2,000 for that body.
 
It'll probably make a great camera for someone who wants a cheaper FF EF mount, but it was a disappointing upgrade.

Photo wise it looks good, but doesn't set the world on fire and isn't any cheaper than the competition. The D750 probably beats it in autofocus, K1 has a better sensor and the A7ii is much smaller.

Video wise it's decent with great AF and a tilting screen, but no 4K in 2017 is disappointing.
A part of me kind of feels that people still buy Canon cause they're either too invested in the brand lens wise or don't want to do the research. Don't get me wrong they make good cameras, they're just a bit...boring...at least to me. If I had all the money in the world I'd buy a 5DmkIII and use it as like...a fifth camera and have an excuse to buy Canon mount glass to put on an A7Rii.
 
GAF,

I currently have a Canon 80D and I'm using FF lenses on it.

I really make to make an upgrade to a FF sensor, and I'm debating with myself between the 5D M3 or the 5D M4. The price difference is about $1k.

I also thought about selling everything and getting a Sony A7R II, but then buying lenses are going to be very costly.

Give me your opinions GAF
 
GAF,

I currently have a Canon 80D and I'm using FF lenses on it.

I really make to make an upgrade to a FF sensor, and I'm debating with myself between the 5D M3 or the 5D M4. The price difference is about $1k.

I also thought about selling everything and getting a Sony A7R II, but then buying lenses are going to be very costly.

Give me your opinions GAF
You can either buy a 5Dmkiii or get the A7Rii and just adapt the Canon glass like every other Sony shooter does. You should probably sell what you really do not need.
 

ecosse_011172

Junior Member
I've had a Nikon D90 for a few years now and it's a bit battered, I've never fully gotten into DSLRs although I love the quality of the photos even an idiot like me can take.
A lot of the photos I take are when travelling so I've been wondering if something small, mirrorless like the Sony A6000/6300 would be a better fit for my use case.

Which other models should I consider?
Any glaring pros/cons to watch out for?

Thanks in advance for any help you can offer.

I've been doing some reading and around the €500- €600 range, the Fujifilm X-T10 and the Olympus OM-D E-M10 Mark II seem to be the best bets, I like the look of the Sony A6000 too but it sounds as if the kit lens is inferior to the fuji/olympus lenses.

Anything else I should consider?
Much to choose between the Fuji and Olympus?
 
I've been doing some reading and around the €500- €600 range, the Fujifilm X-T10 and the Olympus OM-D E-M10 Mark II seem to be the best bets, I like the look of the Sony A6000 too but it sounds as if the kit lens is inferior to the fuji/olympus lenses.

Anything else I should consider?
Much to choose between the Fuji and Olympus?
You have the basic sensor sizes between the two, but Olympus is still highly regarded, not to mention you have more lens options on Olympus and IBIS.
 

Prez

Member
A part of me kind of feels that people still buy Canon cause they're either too invested in the brand lens wise or don't want to do the research. Don't get me wrong they make good cameras, they're just a bit...boring...at least to me. If I had all the money in the world I'd buy a 5DmkIII and use it as like...a fifth camera and have an excuse to buy Canon mount glass to put on an A7Rii.

I went Canon because of the affordable prime lenses.
 

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