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NeoGAF Camera Equipment Thread | MK II

RuGalz

Member
The RAWs are only 20MB, I meant the final image after you are done processing them. The PNGS are like 60MB, but I guess the JPEGs should suffice but there's so many options I don't know whether they really matter.

Also, is there a benefit from converting your manufacturer's extension to DNG?

Ah ok. PNG isn't great at doing lossless compression so that wouldn't be my first choice. If you really want to store a non-raw format while keeping the original quality, TIFF with ZIP compression is not bad (still lossless). Quality 75 JPEG is good enough for most of use case. I use quality 85 or so for print if they don't take other larger format.

The benefit of converting to DNG is a bit situational. It's probably not worth it for most of the people since manufacture raws are well supported by majority of software.

First of all, it is open standard format so that's good in its own way. The real benefits are: 1) If you use separate program for different parts of processing and want to keep a raw format. I prefer keeping a raw format because when a software opens a raw file it implicitly operates in non-destructive editing mode whereas they will happily overwrite a TIFF. 2) If you use LR, DNG files don't have side cart files -- it embeds the side cart information in the DNG so it's a bit nicer from file organization point of view.
 

Rentahamster

Rodent Whores
So I bought a license for Capture One and this is so nice to use and to produce some very good results with! I'm far from being a (semi-)pro but shooting in RAW seems to be the way to go now. I'll keep it in RAW+JPEG though since it's sometimes just easier to pick the low quality JPEG to send to someone if the picture is not that important (Facebook compression negates anything you do with the picture). Normally there shouldn't be any downside to shooting both besides write times and buffer storage, yes?

I don't know why I ever paid this much for a small camera that I didn't properly use, but now that I'm learning the tricks of the trade the purchase seems worthwile to me. The biggest thing I hate about the RX100M3 though is that there's no touchscreen for the AF, I hope Sony will address this in a not so distant revision. And I don't know why the M4 got the fix to not shutdown on closing the EV but the M3 didn't get an update, makes me less likely to use the viewfinder on the fly.

What format and quality do you usually export your RAW files to after you're done editing them? I feel like 60MB pictures are a bit overkill for each and every picture you've taken.

I keep the raw files as my editing style/preference change over time or sometimes I need a picture edited different for different purpose. Convert your raws to lossless compressed DNG if you need to. 60MB seems excessive for 20MP. My 24MP camera outputs DNG and they are around 35MB on the large end.
Do not convert your RAW files to DNG if you're using Capture One. If you're shooting nikon, for example, CO expects to see a NEF file and will make it look nice from the start. DNG conversion kills the nikon specific settings, so CO doesn't render it as well from the beginning.
 

RuGalz

Member
Do not convert your RAW files to DNG if you're using Capture One. If you're shooting nikon, for example, CO expects to see a NEF file and will make it look nice from the start. DNG conversion kills the nikon specific settings, so CO doesn't render it as well from the beginning.

So it doesn't save the Nikon modifications back out to DNG? That's shitty.
 
1300 for a slightly used 50-140 is a deal I cannot pass up. Lens is said to be in excellent condition with the only problem being a scratched lens cap and lens hood.
 

kazinova

Member
Anyone have a good idea of what's needed to take an eclipse photo? I have a crop body and a 250mm lens with a 6-stop and 11-stop ND filter (Cokin-P, so I can stack them with a polarizer if need be). I'm not sure if I need something else to photograph the eclipse without destroying my sensor... Any suggestions?
 

RuGalz

Member
Anyone have any thoughts on using A7Sii's IBIS with Canon glass?

Leave both IBIS and lens IS on?
Lens IS only?
IBIS only?

Use either but not together since it's not native lens so the lens isn't talking to the camera to work together. I'd stick to IBIS tbh.

Anyone have a good idea of what's needed to take an eclipse photo? I have a crop body and a 250mm lens with a 6-stop and 11-stop ND filter (Cokin-P, so I can stack them with a polarizer if need be). I'm not sure if I need something else to photograph the eclipse without destroying my sensor... Any suggestions?

I wouldn't do it without solar filter unless you are either just taking a quick snap or only taking it during totality for safety reasons.
https://www.bhphotovideo.com/explora/photography/tips-and-solutions/how-photograph-solar-eclipse
 

giga

Member
Use either but not together since it's not native lens so the lens isn't talking to the camera to work together. I'd stick to IBIS tbh.



I wouldn't do it without solar filter unless you are either just taking a quick snap or only taking it during totality for safety reasons.
https://www.bhphotovideo.com/explora/photography/tips-and-solutions/how-photograph-solar-eclipse

If he's doing a wide angle shot where the sun is just a small dot in the sky, an 11 stop ND filter (ND 3.3) should be fine. But if the sun is filling your frame, then yeah, you definitely need a solar filter or film (ND 5). I'm doing a composited wide angle shot myself with an ND3.

I highly recommend this site for eclipse shooting. Super in depth that covers just about everything: http://www.astropix.com/html/i_astrop/2017_eclipse/Eclipse_2017.html

And a nice compilation of sites by dpr: https://www.dpreview.com/articles/3381212233/6-useful-guides-to-photographing-the-solar-eclipse
 

RuGalz

Member
If he's doing a wide angle shot where the sun is just a small dot in the sky, an 11 stop ND filter (ND 3.3) should be fine. But if the sun is filling your frame, then yeah, you definitely need a solar filter or film (ND 5). I'm doing a composited wide angle shot myself with an ND3.

Well he did say a 250mm lens.
 
Why do all of the mirrorless portrait photographers just use the back of the screen and let what I'm assuming face tracking do everything? I just look through the viewfinder and use single point AF and focus on the eye. Not to mention I usually do my best to get on the ground if I have to. Just did a good bit of a portrait session laying on wet grass and dirt. I know technology and all but put some effort in for the art.
 

KalBalboa

Banned
Why do all of the mirrorless portrait photographers just use the back of the screen and let what I'm assuming face tracking do everything? I just look through the viewfinder and use single point AF and focus on the eye. Not to mention I usually do my best to get on the ground if I have to. Just did a good bit of a portrait session laying on wet grass and dirt. I know technology and all but put some effort in for the art.

I shoot exclusivity mirrorless these days and use my EVF with focus assist punch in on nearly every portrait I take, if that helps.
 
I shoot exclusivity mirrorless these days and use my EVF with focus assist punch in on nearly every portrait I take, if that helps.
I'm fine with that, I just find one handing the thing and staring at the back of the screen weird. Pretty much the Jason Lainier method I just find weird.
 
D

Deleted member 17706

Unconfirmed Member
I'm fine with that, I just find one handing the thing and staring at the back of the screen weird. Pretty much the Jason Lainier method I just find weird.

Hard to argue with his results, in my opinion.

The eye tracking (activated via button) function on the a7r ii has had 100% success rate for me.
 
Hard to argue with his results, in my opinion.

The eye tracking (activated via button) function on the a7r ii has had 100% success rate for me.
I know. I just like getting down in the dirt and looking through the viewfinder. I'm not exactly ragging the work I'm just perplexed at times by the way they do things. Shit for all I know I'm just doing everything the hard way.
 
D

Deleted member 17706

Unconfirmed Member
I know. I just like getting down in the dirt and looking through the viewfinder. I'm not exactly ragging the work I'm just perplexed at times by the way they do things. Shit for all I know I'm just doing everything the hard way.

Yeah, I don't really see the appeal in all of that, honestly. I like the EVF for the magnification and resolution, but I definitely use my articulating LCD far more often. Being able to freely position it to get angles that I otherwise wouldn't be able to (or would be very uncomfortable doing so) using the EVF is great in my opinion.

I don't really feel like having to press your face against the camera before taking a shot really has anything to do with the 'art' of photography, but I'm still new at all this.
 
Rumours seem to indicate sometime before the end of the year, but I haven't heard any specifics (and wouldn't really want to, given how recently I bought an a7II). Both the a7II and a7rII have IBIS, by the way. Works very nicely with vintage glass, too.

I do hope we hear something at the end of the year. I'm not really in a rush to ditch my a7(I just got it last year after all), but IBIS and 4K is sorta my holy grail and once I've got it, I'm not gonna be getting any other camera until 8K becomes a legitimate option and that's 10 years away at a minimum.

If you care about good auto-focus, high frame rate continuous shooting and a large buffer, then definitely wait for the a7 iii announcement. It's likely to at least be announced this year.

Lol none of those really interest me. I just want IBIS and 4K.

And one of the reasons why I haven't picked up an a7rII /a7sII is that I just don't really shoot much in a professional capacity anymore. Spending almost $3k for a camera that'll get used once or twice a month is quite honestly wasteful and while I can blow that money away, I can think of other ways of using that $3k that'll benefit me more in the long run.

Why do all of the mirrorless portrait photographers just use the back of the screen and let what I'm assuming face tracking do everything? I just look through the viewfinder and use single point AF and focus on the eye. Not to mention I usually do my best to get on the ground if I have to. Just did a good bit of a portrait session laying on wet grass and dirt. I know technology and all but put some effort in for the art.

*oldmanyellsatcloud.jpg*

Lol jk.

It's just easier imo. Obviously I don't use it alot since most of my glass is MF, but for the times that I've tried it with the kit lens... it works really really well and doesn't really subtract from the experience. I'd probably switch to this method too if given the opportunity.
 
Yeah, I don't really see the appeal in all of that, honestly. I like the EVF for the magnification and resolution, but I definitely use my articulating LCD far more often. Being able to freely position it to get angles that I otherwise wouldn't be able to (or would be very uncomfortable doing so) using the EVF is great in my opinion.

I don't really feel like having to press your face against the camera before taking a shot really has anything to do with the 'art' of photography, but I'm still new at all this.
I personally feel like I'm in the zone better with my face pressed up against the camera. I just pay closer attention on what's going on that way. I know it's exactly the same way through the screen, but I focus more regarding what's in that frame since that's all I see instead of the frame surrounded by other shit.
 

japtor

Member
I'd probably use the EVF more on my GX7 if it were more comfortable or quicker to turn on or something. The eye cup is basically useless, and the delay makes it hard to get a quick look through it since it takes a sec to get your bearings in the EVF. Guess I should look into keeping it on full time cause that'd probably help a lot.

Otherwise...yeah it's hard to downplay the convenience and flexibility of the rear screen. I do get what you're saying by having your face in the camera though, but I don't think rear screen shooting degrades it, it's just another tool to shoot with.
 
I'd probably use the EVF more on my GX7 if it were more comfortable or quicker to turn on or something. The eye cup is basically useless, and the delay makes it hard to get a quick look through it since it takes a sec to get your bearings in the EVF. Guess I should look into keeping it on full time cause that'd probably help a lot.

Otherwise...yeah it's hard to downplay the convenience and flexibility of the rear screen. I do get what you're saying by having your face in the camera though, but I don't think rear screen shooting degrades it, it's just another tool to shoot with.
I have ADD the less shit to distract me the better so that's probably why it's just a thing for me. That and me mostly being a DSLR shooter though when I get the 50-140 I'll be taking the XT2 out more since that's pretty my major focal length territory. The EVF lag drives me crazy and I'm not exactly sure if the live view screen has as responsive AF. I do tend to mess around with that for street photography occasionally and it just doesn't seem the best. Either that or I was just expecting too much. Whatever. It's clear nobody shoots the same way for the same reasons.
 

jokkir

Member
Debating if I should get the Samyang/Rokinon 12mm f/2.0 for my a6000 but I rarely shoot that wide (or maybe because I always have my 50mm f/1.8 prime on it). When I do shoot wide though, I always regret not having it because the kit lens isn't the best performing at night.

Should I get it? I was planning to buy it in the future either way but not sure if I need it now :/
 
I pretty much only use the screen when doing weird angles. Used it a lot last night at a concert to get above the crowds lol.

Either weird angles (above the head, extremely low on the ground) or on a tripod. Other than that, VF.

Also also learned to shoot with both eyes open most of the time, one minding framing and other paying attention to my surroundings. My photo professor back in the uni was a photojournalist who had covered conflict zones, so he drilled that into us. Takes some time to get used, but pays off if you're shooting environments that are changing quickly (like sports, for instance).
 

giga

Member
Debating if I should get the Samyang/Rokinon 12mm f/2.0 for my a6000 but I rarely shoot that wide (or maybe because I always have my 50mm f/1.8 prime on it). When I do shoot wide though, I always regret not having it because the kit lens isn't the best performing at night.

Should I get it? I was planning to buy it in the future either way but not sure if I need it now :/
Get it if you can handle MF. Ultra wides helps separate you from the pack of amateur landscape photographers.
 
Debating if I should get the Samyang/Rokinon 12mm f/2.0 for my a6000 but I rarely shoot that wide (or maybe because I always have my 50mm f/1.8 prime on it). When I do shoot wide though, I always regret not having it because the kit lens isn't the best performing at night.

Should I get it? I was planning to buy it in the future either way but not sure if I need it now :/

12mm is *significantly* wider than the 16mm that the kit lens affords you -- just be aware of this.

TS560x560~925379.jpg


But, IMO, you start getting into the "useful" territory for wide angles. 16mm on APSC is like, okay, it's wide, but it doesn't really look like it; it just feels like a way to back up from your subject in a lot of ways. Once you start pushing wider than that though you'll start getting the dramatic shots and wide sweeping looks.

EDIT: MF with an ultrawide is basically just guess the distance between you and the subject, and rotate the dial to that mark. It's honestly the only time that I think the distance markers are really useful.
 

RuGalz

Member
Should I get it? I was planning to buy it in the future either way but not sure if I need it now :/

It's regularly on sale so at least wait until it's on sale. I don't use it much because I find the color reproduction to be lacking compared to my Pentax lenses but it's a pretty decent, inexpensive, ultra wide lens.
 
I think there may be a small nuclear power plant in my camera battery.

While testing if my oldass (10 year old) Nikon D300 and the original battery were up to snuff to take a ~3 hour time laps of the solar eclipse coming up on Monday, I learned that the battery will still handle taking thousands of static photos (image review off), even after failing to charge the battery after I did a family photoshoot. At the photoshoot I took a couple hundred photos, all using built in flash commander in my camera, reviewing nearly every photo, and even some live-view. Then it sat for about a week before I did my testing.

It's a seriously good battery. I'm quite impressed.
 
Ultrawides are very cool but can be hard to use since you should have stuff in the foreground as well.

Here's a shot I took yesterday with my Fuji 10-24 F4 at 10mm (15mm FF equivalent)

yEh2np7.jpg
 

TFGB

Member
Latest update on rumored Nikon D850 specs:


Not bad, but is it enough to get D800 and D810 owners to upgrade? I probably won't get it. $3,600 is a bit much.

I like the idea of the larger sensor, even though with that comes bigger file sizes. The price could be a bit of an issue though. :/

Going to test out my 200-500VR for the first time today even though I've had it for a while, sat in it's box! We have the world's biggest free seafront airshow in my town for 4 days every year, but I've never been inclined to take shots, even with my 28-300VR.

The Red Arrows are on at midday, so I just have to haul my arse out of bed and walk down there. This thing weighs quite a bit, so I better not drink too much wine today whilst lugging it around lol. :/

20F1vJR.jpg
 

japtor

Member
Any of these Best Buy 50-hour promo sales good for somebody looking to learn the basics of photography?

I've wanted to get into photography for awhile just as a hobby, but didn't really have an expendable income until this past year. Basically looking out for any deals that are worth jumping on.
No clue about those cameras, but depends how basic you're talking...cause if you get really basic you're just thinking about seeing and composing.

But I'm guessing you want to learn to mess with all the stuff you can mess with, in which case I'm guessing any will work and will be good enough quality wise. Main differences I'd look for is in the controls and how accessible it is to mess with this or that setting while shooting but I'm not sure that's a big deal just starting out. And even knowing that stuff...well, sometimes simpler is better, like a lot of the time there's only so much I want/need to change.

If they're good prices (and decent enough bodies and lenses) I'd probably get one of the cheap dual lens kits cause that'll give you more to mess/practice with and pretty versatile in the ranges there.
 
Any of these Best Buy 50-hour promo sales good for somebody looking to learn the basics of photography?

I've wanted to get into photography for awhile just as a hobby, but didn't really have an expendable income until this past year. Basically looking out for any deals that are worth jumping on.

lol. read it wrong. ignore me.

get a cheap DSLR. Go Canon as I think they have a better colour rendition. I shoot sony but they're not cheap.
 
^ lol.

That reminds me, any favourite places for getting an album printed? Just something simple. There seem to be a ton of online services.
 

mrklaw

MrArseFace
Going to test out my 200-500VR for the first time today even though I've had it for a while, sat in it's box! We have the world's biggest free seafront airshow in my town for 4 days every year, but I've never been inclined to take shots, even with my 28-300VR.

The Red Arrows are on at midday, so I just have to haul my arse out of bed and walk down there. This thing weighs quite a bit, so I better not drink too much wine today whilst lugging it around lol. :/


How did you get on? Some of my favourite shots were when I temporarily had a canon 100-400 at the farnborough airshow. Sadly my son couldn’t deal with the noise so we had to leave after about 15 minutes
 
Hey GAF should I get a used Pentax K30, a used a5000 or a new d3200. I am traveling. Should I just get the hero 5 black?

Depends on the price, but out of these three, I wouldn't consider the A5000. Too many compromises (no viewfinder, image stabilisation). K-30 is weathersealed and has shake reduction while relatively compact. For traveling quite suitable. It would be quite imprtant to try them in your own hand, though.
I don't know anything about these GoPros, sorry.
 

japtor

Member
Hey GAF should I get a used Pentax K30, a used a5000 or a new d3200. I am traveling. Should I just get the hero 5 black?
One of those is not like the others...

The GoPro can take photos but it's kinda like asking if you should get one of those cameras vs [insert whatever new phone]. I feel like you can get decent quality pics with nearly anything these days, for me it's kind of a matter of more control and form factor when shooting and flexibility with lenses, vs relative limitations but simplicity and portability/convenience of fixed cameras in other devices. And particularly in the case of GoPros, shooting video and ruggedness with various camera rig options. Depends where on that spectrum you more want to be at I guess, there's crossover of what they do (take pics/video) but way different in their primary focus.
 

The Pope

Member
Ok thanks guys. My life was simple when I had my LG G 5 but it broke the other day and yeah the provider was messing with me so I went out and bought A Redmi Note 3 on the cheap. Great phone...shite camera.

Ok I think I am going to get the K-30. How is the video on it Vs the d3200/3300.
 

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