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AV Receivers, HDMI & PS4 Pro 4k / HDR
- Thread starter Drama Zed Nod
- Start date
barneystuta83
Member
Yeah I'll definitely be considering that, although I guess it would need a TV capable also and I don't think many/any receivers have it yet?
Hey everyone. New Ps4 Pro owner here. The audio out on this thing is really perplexing. I have it connected through HDMI to my Denon HDMI 2.2 receiver. On the PS4 settings I had it set to output as LPCM 7.1 and it was sending out EVERYTHING as LPCM 7.1, from the menu screen, to video games, to Netflix shows encoded as DD5.1, to Netflix shows encoded in 2.0, Amazon/Hulu shows in DD+, all of it was sent out as LPCM 7.1. I didn't like that, especially that it was remixing stereo stuff as 7.1.
Afterwards I switched the settings on the PS4 to bitstream Dolby since a lot of the streaming apps (Amazon, Hulu, Vudu) use DD+. There only Vudu would register as DD+ on my receiver, the rest came out as DD5.1 regardless of streaming source.
Blurays btw I was able to get the native source by using the bluray menu and putting it to bitstream direct.
So here are the questions:
1.Is there any way to just have this thing send out the native audio so that my receiver is doing the work instead of the PS4 decoding/recoding everything?
2. Are all PS4 games just outputting naturally LPCM 7.1?
Afterwards I switched the settings on the PS4 to bitstream Dolby since a lot of the streaming apps (Amazon, Hulu, Vudu) use DD+. There only Vudu would register as DD+ on my receiver, the rest came out as DD5.1 regardless of streaming source.
Blurays btw I was able to get the native source by using the bluray menu and putting it to bitstream direct.
So here are the questions:
1.Is there any way to just have this thing send out the native audio so that my receiver is doing the work instead of the PS4 decoding/recoding everything?
2. Are all PS4 games just outputting naturally LPCM 7.1?
I'm not an expert but isn't that what Bitstream is?
Setting the PS4 to bitstream Dolby/DTS forces those streaming apps and games to output in lossy Dolby Digital/DTS.
Leave it on LPCM if you want lossless.
Denon's current line is very good. The AVR-X2300W has 7 4K HDR HDMI sockets and it's not too dear, I am very happy with mine.
Yeah I've just decided to leave it at LPCM and forget about it. Just find it odd that It's outputting all netflix and Amazon sources at LPCM 7.1 when they're originally encoded in DD+ 5.1 or even stereo.
Thinking about grabbing a new AV receiver to pair with the TCL 55P605.
Is Yamaha RX-V581 for 330.00 a good price at this point or can I do better for the same price? Or if you know of a better receiver that cheaper I'm up for suggestions! Don't really want to push more than this price though at this time.
Is Yamaha RX-V581 for 330.00 a good price at this point or can I do better for the same price? Or if you know of a better receiver that cheaper I'm up for suggestions! Don't really want to push more than this price though at this time.
Drama Zed Nod
Member
From what i've read the onkyo tx-sr373 is suppose to be the best for the under £300 range.
DrBaalzamon
Member
Thinking about getting the Denon AV receiver mentioned here (and on wirecutter), but curious about how much latency would be introduced if I plug all my consoles into it, then feed the hdmi out into my tv. Thoughts?
When you setup AV receivers for pure pass through mode, you won't introduce additional perceivable latency. If you let the receiver do the video processing instead of the TV, that probably will then introduce lag.
You should be able to do that.
I'm in the same boat but my AVR doesn't have two HDMI out connections, so what I do is run all of my game consoles through the AVR for audio processing and run video to the TV where that input is configured for gaming. My cable box goes directly to the TV via HDMI while I send the audio to the AVR via optical (since HDMI ARC caused audio sync issues).
Brutal Deluxe
Member
Does going through an AV receiver add any noticeable input lag?
I mean like this:
[Game Console] ------HDMI------> [AV Receiver] ------HDMI------>[4K TV]
Am I better off going direct to the TV and then using some other way to get the audio?
Also, isn't HDMI 2.1 just around the corner, with all its goodies like 48 gbps transfer rate, VRR, 4K@120hz, dynamic HDR, enhance audio return channel, etc.
I'd hate to spend a pile of money on an HDMI 2.0 TV/receiver and miss out on all that good stuff.
I mean like this:
[Game Console] ------HDMI------> [AV Receiver] ------HDMI------>[4K TV]
Am I better off going direct to the TV and then using some other way to get the audio?
Also, isn't HDMI 2.1 just around the corner, with all its goodies like 48 gbps transfer rate, VRR, 4K@120hz, dynamic HDR, enhance audio return channel, etc.
I'd hate to spend a pile of money on an HDMI 2.0 TV/receiver and miss out on all that good stuff.
Any good receiver like the Denons will have a HDMI bypass mode (might be called something else depending on brand) that turns off any processing and upscaling on the receiver end if the receiver's game mode isn't good enough for you. So no, no additional input lag with AV receivers.
That receiver is a nice one. You want Dolby Surround. It will upmix if needed with new algorithms..
EDIT: I also like DTS Nueral:X - one of the best IMO. Can upmix any content IIRC.
DOUBLE EDIT: Don't forget to do your Audessy calibration. Follow the steps (does require some work) and it is gold.
NYR
Member
Thank you for the input, I'm real nervous about it, my last two receivers have been THX Certified and got so used to THX Surr EX processing of 5.1 to my 7.1, it was great.
Zoe
Member
Anybody have a Onkyo NR-646 (or later, maybe?) and are using the HDMI sub out?
I was having some handshake/HDCP errors on my Uverse box while setting it up to begin with, but after upgrading the firmware I eventually got Uverse to mirror to two TV's with full video and audio. I figured the handshake issues were because I kept changing out the cables to get everything right.
Then I tried using my OG PS4 (working before activating the sub), but it kept cycling resolutions, and I could only get the audio. Hooked it up directly to the TV to turn off HDCP, and suddenly it works fine again. That's not a good solution though because video content requires it, and I was still getting the occasional error on Uverse.
Turns out if I cycle the sub TV on and off, the issues resolve on Uverse and the PS4, at least until the next time I switch sources.
What could be the issue here? Is it because of HDCP 2.2? I can move the devices off of those ports, but I originally had the PS4 on a non-2.2 port to begin with. Is it because I'm using an HDMI extender (w/ 2 Cat6) for the sub TV? I saw the Uverse error once or twice when I was doing initial setup with a regular HDMI cable.
For now I'm just disabling the Sub--it's really only meant for a patio TV which will see limited use.
I was having some handshake/HDCP errors on my Uverse box while setting it up to begin with, but after upgrading the firmware I eventually got Uverse to mirror to two TV's with full video and audio. I figured the handshake issues were because I kept changing out the cables to get everything right.
Then I tried using my OG PS4 (working before activating the sub), but it kept cycling resolutions, and I could only get the audio. Hooked it up directly to the TV to turn off HDCP, and suddenly it works fine again. That's not a good solution though because video content requires it, and I was still getting the occasional error on Uverse.
Turns out if I cycle the sub TV on and off, the issues resolve on Uverse and the PS4, at least until the next time I switch sources.
What could be the issue here? Is it because of HDCP 2.2? I can move the devices off of those ports, but I originally had the PS4 on a non-2.2 port to begin with. Is it because I'm using an HDMI extender (w/ 2 Cat6) for the sub TV? I saw the Uverse error once or twice when I was doing initial setup with a regular HDMI cable.
For now I'm just disabling the Sub--it's really only meant for a patio TV which will see limited use.
NYR
Member
X4300 owner here - Is there any way to stop the "DENON logo" standby wallpaper when nothing is being fed into the AVR? I have an LG E6 OLED and when there is no signal, it used to cycle through 4K images stocked on the firmware of the TV. Now it just displays a grey Denon logo.
Now, when I have the TV and AVR on, but there is nothing else on, say the PS4, I see a Denon logo which is static on screen. I'm worried about burn in and prefer the cycling of the images from the TV, how can I get it to do that again?
Now, when I have the TV and AVR on, but there is nothing else on, say the PS4, I see a Denon logo which is static on screen. I'm worried about burn in and prefer the cycling of the images from the TV, how can I get it to do that again?
CollectedDust
Member
I'm a big fan of Sony receivers (not speakers though). I have the 1070 (upgraded from an 850), and it serves me well. The new 1080 does everything that the 1070 can (4k, HDR, etc), but it also has Atmos support. I will be sticking with Sony, as I've had no issues with them.
I'd start from the beginning and check all of your speaker settings. You probably have it set to 2.1 or something like that. I haven't experienced this and it is probably just a setting.
Drama Zed Nod
Member
Love when i see my old thread pop up
It defo sounds like you've got either the source or the amp set to 2.1 Blizzje.
It defo sounds like you've got either the source or the amp set to 2.1 Blizzje.
I have an x4200, and I don't think there is a way to disable it. You have to either turn off the TV, turn off the receiver, or switch inputs.
That said, it is a dark grey on black logo. And since it is completely static, the TV's screen dimming should kick in eventually to make it even darker. The odds of it causing burn-in are probably much lower than that of just about any video game with static HUD elements.
Thanks, guys. So 'direct' should give me 7.1? Haven't really fiddled with the settings but had to put the ps4pro to output bitstream dolby digital to get all speakers to react. Are there advanced options in the ps4pro menu to get PCM to output in 7.1? I have it set to hdmi out and pcm, not much else to choose.
Not sure where I can set the receiver to output pcm to 7.1, so might need to dive into the manual when I get home. Could also be a hdmi handshake issue, right?
Not sure where I can set the receiver to output pcm to 7.1, so might need to dive into the manual when I get home. Could also be a hdmi handshake issue, right?
CollectedDust
Member
I'd be surprised if it was a handshake issue. The receiver has tons of setting for which speakers to output to. I can't remember how the PS4 settings work, but I can tell you that I have 7.2 PCM working with a PS4 PRO and 1070 setup.
I have tried expanded stereo, but I guess I shouldn't use that mode. I'll have to check the manual when I get home. Couldn't figure it out yesterday.
Drama Zed Nod
Member
It's a long shot, as i'm not familiar with the amp you have, but i have an older gen Sony amp. When it's properly decoding a 5.1 mix (etc) then the light is blue on the front, does it have something like that?
jstevenson
Sailor Stevenson
FrankNitty
Member
Reallink
Member
Not sure what model he has, but most Denons come with pretty advanced Audyssey suites and a calibration Microphone. You should absolutely plug in the mic, let it run through the auto-cal setup, and use the settings it chooses unless you're hiring a professional calibrator. I'm not familiar with Denon's Menu, but if "Dynamic EQ On/Off" is synonymous with "Audyssey On/Off", he should absolutely run Audyssey auto-calibration and leave it turned on. Again though, I do not know if this Dynamic EQ setting is the Audyssey toggle, check the manual or perhaps another owner can confirm for us.
NYR
Member
I have the X4300 and ran Audessy per III-V's post above and love it. It sounds great, I'm not turning that off.
My issue is when I have dynamic eq on, which is under the Audessy menu and have MultEQ XT32 set to L/R Bypass, my front speakers slightly pop every time I change the channel. If I turn off Dynamic EQ it stops popping. If I change MultEQ XT32 to Reference, it also stops the popping.
I can record a video detailing the pop if it would help. I have read that it is the Dolby decoder that is kicking in that causes it. Note I am using Opitcal on my TV/SAT, the box won't feed an audio signal via HDMI, which is odd, my old receiver was fine but my SAT box is 6-7 years old.
My issue is when I have dynamic eq on, which is under the Audessy menu and have MultEQ XT32 set to L/R Bypass, my front speakers slightly pop every time I change the channel. If I turn off Dynamic EQ it stops popping. If I change MultEQ XT32 to Reference, it also stops the popping.
I can record a video detailing the pop if it would help. I have read that it is the Dolby decoder that is kicking in that causes it. Note I am using Opitcal on my TV/SAT, the box won't feed an audio signal via HDMI, which is odd, my old receiver was fine but my SAT box is 6-7 years old.
Never had this issue. But I do not use bypass L/R, either.
Do you need L/R bypass? I would not use that and instead use standard Audessey EQ for tv/movies and Audessey flat EQ for music. You are missing out on some of the calibration when using the bypass.
Use 0 for film and 10 dB for TV.
BTW, this is a great reference for Audessey in general.
JackAubrey
Member
It depends how loud you use your AVR.
If you listen at 0db, ie reference volume then don't use Dynamic EQ. However that's pretty damn loud.
The problem is that when you listen to a calibrated AVR at lower volumes you get much less bass than you'd expect. This is a product of the way we hear and process sound.
So the idea behind Dynamic EQ is that it alters the EQ curve based on the volume of your listening so you get a pleasing amount of bass and treble no matter the volume you're listening at.
On my Denon AVR that's exactly what this does. At 0db nothing changes, but as you lower the volume the bass and treble are boosted to try to give you the same experience as listening at reference volume.
On the Denon AVR's there's a further control to set where this change begins to happen. And so you can set the D-EQ to ease up at -5db, -10db or -15db. Unless you're listening really loud then to be honest a setting of -10 or -15 is fine for normal use.
So the TLDR is that Dynamic EQ isn't some annoying over-processed thing, but a way of the AVR responding to the way your ears/brain works and giving you the most consistent level of sound depending on your listening volume.
To read more on this subject check out the WIKI article on Fletcher-Munson curves - https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fletcher–Munson_curves
I know this is a little bit of a stretch but if anyone can help I would appreciate it.
I currently have a Denon 4520 sounds is great love the receiver, problem is it's not hdcp 2.2 and HDMI 2.1 compliant.
I could go buy a cheap Denon and get both of those things but I have found the newer ones to not sound as good and a little bit tinny.
Is there a way to have my 4520 do all the audio and everything and simply use a new cheap receiver to pass everything onto my nice receiver?
I'm trying to avoid buying another flagship receiver.
I currently have a Denon 4520 sounds is great love the receiver, problem is it's not hdcp 2.2 and HDMI 2.1 compliant.
I could go buy a cheap Denon and get both of those things but I have found the newer ones to not sound as good and a little bit tinny.
Is there a way to have my 4520 do all the audio and everything and simply use a new cheap receiver to pass everything onto my nice receiver?
I'm trying to avoid buying another flagship receiver.
If they are all chained together with HDMI, I do not think that this will work due to HDMI handshakes: if one piece of the chain fails, then it all fails. You could try disabling HDCP 2.2, and you should still be able to game, etc. but you will loose some streaming services like Netflix.
Temeculan3000
Member
You could do it with the HDFury AVR key, this allows you to extract the HDMI audio and send a HDCP 1.4 signal. You would need an HDCP 2.2 HDMI switch to connect all your HDCP 2.2 devices, connect the output to the AVR key, with the video out to your TV and the audio out to your old receiver.
Only issue: it doesn't come out until October.
You can achieve this right now by combining the HDFury Integral and the Linker, but that once you are spending that much you might as well just buy a whole new AVR.
There are other HDMI Audio Extractor devices that are less expensive, they split the audio to an Optical out, which you could then send to your AVR. You would want to be careful it supports 4K HDR video though.
jstevenson
Sailor Stevenson
I highly reccomend
Temeculan3000
Member
Anyone know if it is worth upgrading to 7.1 if I won't be able to place the LR surrounds at 90 degrees to the seating area? Because of my room I would have to place them slightly in front of the seating area. Just wondering if this is going to throw off the effect or if it won't make much difference.
NYR
Member
Absolutely. I have mine not set to 90 degrees either, most people won't, that is a lot of room to take and a lot of clutter. It still works great. If your receiver can measure speaker distances and what not, just run the calibration and you'll be fine.
Temeculan3000
Member
Cool, I currently have a cheap Sony HTIB system from 2009 or so, so it only supports up to 1080p, no 3D or anything beyond that.
Thinking of getting a Denon X4300H and some ELAC speakers, but it is getting expensive fast. Especially if I want to do a 7.1.2 system.
I'm debating getting ELAC LR and Centers, but then using the old Sony speakers as surrounds until I can justify spending more on expensive surrounds and adding in the Atmos speakers.