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Old Logitech wheels [with FFB] are now playable on PS4 via homebrew PC app

edu27

Neo Member
For someone interested there is a new GIMX version, 5.3, where the Raspberry Pi stability has been improved.
I was able to play for more than an hour without any problem.
 

Shaneus

Member
So yay, I finally have this working! But for anyone who already does, does the FFB in Driveclub seem a bit lacking to anyone else? Even with all the settings turned right up, there's rarely much feedback when running into a wall, running off the road, that sort of thing.

I don't know if the Logitech Game Profiler on the PC makes much difference... any ideas, anyone? Maybe it's meant to be like this, but I very much doubt it... it doesn't feel like much more than a wheel with some tight centering spring setup.
 

bombshell

Member
So yay, I finally have this working! But for anyone who already does, does the FFB in Driveclub seem a bit lacking to anyone else? Even with all the settings turned right up, there's rarely much feedback when running into a wall, running off the road, that sort of thing.

I don't know if the Logitech Game Profiler on the PC makes much difference... any ideas, anyone? Maybe it's meant to be like this, but I very much doubt it... it doesn't feel like much more than a wheel with some tight centering spring setup.

I have read that the force feedback implementation is far from the best in Driveclub, also that the game is easier with a pad than a wheel. It's not a sim after all.

Project Cars as a sim should be a much better game to try it out with, if you have that.
 

desu

Member
I can only echo that the Driveclub with a wheel feels rather weird and is much easier with a pad. I've only spent about 2-3h with the game though, trying various settings from the GIMX configuration and so on.

However I don't know if its Driveclub or the unofficial wheel support. Maybe an official wheel feels much better.
 

Shaneus

Member
Project Cars as a sim should be a much better game to try it out with, if you have that.
Yeah, I don't unfortunately. And it looks like there's not much else on PS4 that does natively support the G29.

Damn, I thought everything was going to be so much better! Guess I have to hold my breath and see what the next GT will bring.
 

Denur

Member
Yeah, I don't unfortunately. And it looks like there's not much else on PS4 that does natively support the G29.

Damn, I thought everything was going to be so much better! Guess I have to hold my breath and see what the next GT will bring.
With the T300 and FF at 100% the force feedback is very strong and quite well implemented. I turned vibration off, so do not get much feedback from collisions and such. The FF tells me very well when e.g. I start to lose grip.
 

Shaneus

Member
With the T300 and FF at 100% the force feedback is very strong and quite well implemented. I turned vibration off, so do not get much feedback from collisions and such. The FF tells me very well when e.g. I start to lose grip.
Hm. Either it's how it's implemented with the G29 or this FFB thing still needs some work done on it. As a test in DC, going full noise at a wall barely makes the wheel move on it's own at all. Mind you, when vibration and FFB are turned right up it definitely gives some feedback, it's just nowhere near as detailed as I was expecting.
 

le-seb

Member
With the T300 and FF at 100% the force feedback is very strong and quite well implemented. I turned vibration off, so do not get much feedback from collisions and such. The FF tells me very well when e.g. I start to lose grip.
I didn't find the force feedback in DC to be as 'verbose' as it was while playing GT6 with my T500RS.
I'll be all sweaty after half an hour playing, so no denying it's pretty strong.
 

Denur

Member
Hm. Either it's how it's implemented with the G29 or this FFB thing still needs some work done on it. As a test in DC, going full noise at a wall barely makes the wheel move on it's own at all. Mind you, when vibration and FFB are turned right up it definitely gives some feedback, it's just nowhere near as detailed as I was expecting.
You're right that the FFB while going off road and during collisions is not very strong. I like it that way though, because I don't like getting my thumbs ripped off each time I smash into a wall.
 
Received the other parts now just waiting for my CP2102 to get in from china.

I planned to use this via desktop computer but may look into the raspberry pie setup. Is it working fine now? Any links to those instructions.
 

Shaneus

Member
I didn't find the force feedback in DC to be as 'verbose' as it was while playing GT6 with my T500RS.
I'll be all sweaty after half an hour playing, so no denying it's pretty strong.
Hm, that's a shame to hear. So either I have to wait until GT7 (or whatever) or borrow/buy pCARS.

You're right that the FFB while going off road and during collisions is not very strong. I like it that way though, because I don't like getting my thumbs ripped off each time I smash into a wall.
Yeah, but there's a difference between it not being strong and not being there at all. I couldn't feel rumble strips and barely felt it when the car was half off the road... even if it's not strong at all, you should still sense something. I tried looking at videos of other people driving with either a G29 or Thrustmaster but couldn't really gather whether it was better with those wheels or not. If anyone here who has a Thrusty that works with DC would like to test and let me know if they can feel rumble strips/going off-road/colliding head-on with a wall, I'd be grateful.

Sucks that I went straight from that to Daytona on PS3 (minus the adapter) and it felt wonderful. Daytona shouldn't have more vibration/FFB levels and detail than DC.
 

drotahorror

Member
I wish I could be more detailed but given my short time with the g29 (xmas gift) I noticed a fair amount of FFB and it was set to 50% in Driveclub. Wish I could help more and really test it out. Vibration was off as I thought it was just annoying and loud.
 

Shaneus

Member
I wish I could be more detailed but given my short time with the g29 (xmas gift) I noticed a fair amount of FFB and it was set to 50% in Driveclub. Wish I could help more and really test it out. Vibration was off as I thought it was just annoying and loud.
Don't stress :) I only paid ~$25 to get the adapter etc. working, so I'm not worried about anything, more just curious. I did get to use a G29 (actually, I think it was a 920 on a One) at PAX Aus last weekend, but that was with pCARS :/
 

le-seb

Member
If anyone here who has a Thrusty that works with DC would like to test and let me know if they can feel rumble strips/going off-road/colliding head-on with a wall, I'd be grateful.
You shouldn't really expect a lot of feedback from driving off-road with DC, it's very forgiving in this domain. Also don't expect GT-like sensations when driving on the curbs, it won't be as bumpy a ride. But you can expect some good feedback when colliding walls.

Made a small video with my T500RS so that you can make your opinion:
https://youtu.be/Z1ybKGY-Kr8
 

bombshell

Member
Alright, finally got it to work! Now I just need to build a semi fancy box for the parts.

Matlo helped me in figuring out the issues. My two problems were:

- I had to swap the Rx and Tx pins. Sometimes the CP2102 adapters are mislabeled according to Matlo.
- Install USBDK. Matlo suggests to install it at the end of the GIMX installation (I think this is missing from the tutorials, or maybe I just did not see it).
The installer is located in "C:\Program Files\GIMX\tools\usbdk".


Drive Club is really nice with a wheel. Finally I can play cockpit view. Force feedback is pretty damn good and there is no noticeable input lag.

Wasted 2 hours trying to get this to work reading the wiki and various forum threads, then I remembered this above post. Switched the Rx and Tx pins and it immediately worked. Thanks Windom! (and Matlo I guess)

First impressions in Driveclub after just 1 short race, no input lag, force feedback is honestly better than I feared reading Shaneus' previous posts although Driveclubs force feedback implementation is definitely not as good as in sims and there's enough vibration feedback that I think I'll just keep it on the low setting because I don't really like the loud vibration of the DFGT.

It's late here though, so I'll test out some wall collision feedback and to get a better feel for the racing (very long time since I've used the wheel) either tomorrow or Saturday.

I also don't have Project Cars, I probably should have bought it in the recent PSN deal, but wanted to make sure this worked first.
 
USB module has arrived, I just need to make some ends for my adapter.

A neat little slide in casing
img_0586uzrpw.jpg


I did a short test and it works perfectly with Driveclub. Where's the cheapest place to get Project Cars?
 

bombshell

Member
USB module has arrived, I just need to make some ends for my adapter.

I did a short test and it works perfectly with Driveclub. Where's the cheapest place to get Project Cars?

It works perfect for me too, except for a queue write error happening at random times. I've posted a thread on the support forum, hopefully Matlo is able to help me with the problem.

The force feedback is not as strong as I remember it from GT5 long ago, even when set at 100%, but that's probably more a fault of Driveclub's implementation than the GIMX implementation. But I'm happy enough with the force feedback from the road surface and from collisions.

As for Project Cars, I'm not aware of any good deals. It's too late for us to buy it in the 50% off PSN deal :(
 
FFB feels good to me from what I've played so far, just finishing up the tour and the game is much better with the wheel. Using 440, FFB 100%, vibration low and it's all good.

Been playing for about an hour and I've had no problems.

Fuck Logitech.
 

Philly40

Member
So I went the cheap route, and got my parts from China a few days ago, it took almost 3 weeks to arrive but for less than £5 delivered I'm not going to complain.

Tonight was the first chance I had to experiment, raked out my old wheel and pedals - unfortunately can't find the power brick, gah!!


I did set up the adapter and software though, was able to pair a PS3 madcatz arcade stick to the PS4 and it worked great on Injustice which hasn't previously worked with PS3 sticks.

I also had a few games of nidhogg - felt perfect - almost as if it was designed to be used with a stick.

Hopefully I'll find the power brick over the next few days and be able to test the wheel.
 
Got my parts and assembled/installed it all in under 30 minutes. Tried driveclub with a DFGT wheel and its really good. 100% worth the effort if you have a compatible wheel. Played an hour more than I intended.

I did get some random wheel disconnects though. Anyone else experiencing this?
 

ps3ud0

Member
Congrats to all that have had success with this - still waiting for a solid RPi solution before I try it. Man be good to get the good old G25 working with the PS4

ps3ud0 8)
 
So do I really just buy one of the supported wheels and use the app and that's it? I'll buy both Project Cars and Driveclub if this works as advertised.
 

DieH@rd

Banned
So do I really just buy one of the supported wheels and use the app and that's it? I'll buy both Project Cars and Driveclub if this works as advertised.

No, it is not that easy. You need to create a special USB cable [no soldering required, just a simple assembly].
 

Shaneus

Member
Congrats to all that have had success with this - still waiting for a solid RPi solution before I try it. Man be good to get the good old G25 working with the PS4

ps3ud0 8)
It's still worth buying the parts anyway, it'll be the same solution once it's worked out regardless. Get the parts now, play with it a little on the computer so when the RPi is a viable alternative to the PC for G27 support, you'll be golden.

So do I really just buy one of the supported wheels and use the app and that's it? I'll buy both Project Cars and Driveclub if this works as advertised.
Like DieH@rd said, it's not that easy at all. You need to buy some parts and follow some instructions to program firmwares to go in said parts. And then run the app and make sure it's configured/being detected properly.

I reckon this solution will have a plug-and-play format relatively soon (as in, months) but for now it's almost strictly just for people who want to tinker.
 

ddikxela

Member
My hardware arrived last night and I pick up my jumper wires tonight after work.

I hope it doesnt take me too long to set up.

Any tips for plugging together the hardware? I see on the guide it has the wires wrapped around the teensy and usb to prevent shorting. Anything else I should take into consideration?
 

Shaneus

Member
It doesn't even really matter if you have it loose, especially just for testing. Don't wrap anything up yet, make sure it works first.
 
A tip would be to use the pinout chart and not just the tutorial images when connecting the two boards. The pins on my boards and some others have been different than the pics in the tutorial.
 

Philly40

Member
My hardware arrived last night and I pick up my jumper wires tonight after work.

I hope it doesnt take me too long to set up.

Any tips for plugging together the hardware? I see on the guide it has the wires wrapped around the teensy and usb to prevent shorting. Anything else I should take into consideration?


Not really a tip, but I originally tried using Windows 7 to flash the hardware/ set up the software, and it was a bit of a pain loading drivers etc.

If you've access to a ubuntu 14.04 machine it'll be much easier
 

Shaneus

Member
Not really a tip, but I originally tried using Windows 7 to flash the hardware/ set up the software, and it was a bit of a pain loading drivers etc.

If you've access to a ubuntu 14.04 machine it'll be much easier
Yeah, on the cheapo solution I opted for after the first one didn't work, the plugging/unplugging to put the device into flash mode was a bit of a pain in the arse. Got there eventually, though.
 

ddikxela

Member
So easy to put together. Its like plugging up rca cables from the dvd player to the tv on a miniture scale.
Followed the steps on the tutorial and ended up swapping around where 2 wires were supposed to plug up.

I was back up and running in less than 20 mins.... though I still need to build a housing for my teensy and usb to make it all tidy and stuff.
 
I live in Brazil and have a Driving Force GT and have no ideia how to build that adapter. Anywhere i can buy it?

If you can plug in a cable you can put this adapter together. The links in the first post show you where to plug, it's very simple and will work out much cheaper than any pre-made one.


Finished mine up today by fixing the ends on with a heated up screw driver - looks a bit scraggy but it'll do

usbxups4.jpg



Still can't get the mouse and keyboard to work in PS4 shooters though? I've flashed the DS4 firmware but nothing registers, so I tried the DS3 firmware with the PS3 and that works perfectly fine.
 

bombshell

Member
Got my parts and assembled/installed it all in under 30 minutes. Tried driveclub with a DFGT wheel and its really good. 100% worth the effort if you have a compatible wheel. Played an hour more than I intended.

I did get some random wheel disconnects though. Anyone else experiencing this?

Had to wait for my 1 week ban to expire before I could reply to you.

I'm having random disconnections too with the DFGT.

I'm trying to work out with Matlo (the creator) what's wrong in the thread here: http://gimx.fr/forum/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=1312

You are welcome to come and post your experience in the thread so that he can see that there's others with disconnection problems.
 

Shaneus

Member
Ooh, that's tidy! I'm going to try and squeeze mine into a USB hub, so the wheel plugs into it as well. There are spare areas I'd gain back from SD card slots, so I think it'll be worth a shot. But when I have time, of course.

Edit: FWIW bombshell, I'm using a FT232RL and I've never had any problems with mine, save for the odd "dropped" (from memory) signal. Never lost connection over around an hour or two of playtime.
 

Motoko

Member
Guys, could you advise some EU shops to buy all those pieces. I would not buy overseas due to custom problems. thanks.
 

wowzors

Member
Does anyone have links for where to buy the parts that shops to the USA? I'm thinking about making this and setting everything up but my computer is a little far from my ps4.
 
Id like to put one of these together and 3d print a nice case for it.

Be happy to share the .stl once I figure it all out. Any links for the parts to be ordered to Canada?
 

Philly40

Member
Guys, could you advise some EU shops to buy all those pieces. I would not buy overseas due to custom problems. thanks.

Does anyone have links for where to buy the parts that shops to the USA? I'm thinking about making this and setting everything up but my computer is a little far from my ps4.


I bought these parts and can confirm they work -

http://www.gearbest.com/boards-shields/pp_248302.html

https://www.fasttech.com/p/1254000


Both companies ship to US and EU, no custom charges due to low value, but might take 2-3 weeks for shipping
 

Dash Kappei

Not actually that important
I bought these parts and can confirm they work -

http://www.gearbest.com/boards-shields/pp_248302.html

https://www.fasttech.com/p/1254000


Both companies ship to US and EU, no custom charges due to low value, but might take 2-3 weeks for shipping

Damn, those are super cheap! :O

No soldering right? I see there's pins on the Teensy-clone.

I'm not forgetting anything other needed parts, right?

Afaik the firmware will be flashed via PC and since I'm going usb and not Bluetooth with the DS4 hooked up to my PC (heard of random disconnects and FFB not being fully supported yet... unless it's all fixed now, haven't been following the last couple weeks)
 

Philly40

Member
Damn, those are super cheap! :O

No soldering right? I see there's pins on the Teensy-clone.

I'm not forgetting anything other needed parts, right?

Afaik the firmware will be flashed via PC and since I'm going usb and not Bluetooth with the DS4 hooked up to my PC (heard of random disconnects and FFB not being fully supported yet... unless it's all fixed now, haven't been following the last couple weeks)


If you don't care how it looks you can get away without soldering, an elastic band will do the trick!


http://imgur.com/Uw03IRI

I've had no problem with random disconnects - all the parts are hooked up to PS4 via a very old Asus Eee PC netbook running linux
 

Dash Kappei

Not actually that important
Sooo... I'd like to not have to switch on my power hungry gaming pc all the time I want to use this.
I have no Rasperry Pi and never touched one and hearing about it looks a bit daunting, what would be a tidy (as in small like a mini stick or media box at the most) and cheap solution where I can maybe install an über light Linux distro (never done that either) with the sole purpose of running this?

edit: just realized I'd need to have another video out/in for it and all of my 5 hdmi splitter's inputs are taken and going to a projector, would it be possible to set it up so that it just turns on and go straight to GIMX running without needing to touch something each time (since I wouldn't be able to see anything)?

Ok will do. I'm running windows 7 as well.

Here's the adapter I put together. Found the case on amazon and dremeled it a little.

J1lxM6q.jpg


Etv9EjI.jpg

Looks perfect!
Could you link me to it?

If you don't care how it looks you can get away without soldering, an elastic band will do the trick!


http://imgur.com/Uw03IRI

I've had no problem with random disconnects - all the parts are hooked up to PS4 via a very old Asus Eee PC netbook running linux

Thanks man, just ordered the parts and what I meant by no soldering was on the Teensy clone board for the pins but I see there's no need to, will actually get a mini case with screws to enclose it, what are the measurements of the whole thing assembled if it's no bother
 
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