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Old Logitech wheels [with FFB] are now playable on PS4 via homebrew PC app

firehawk12

Subete no aware
I planned on doing it but I just keep playing with the Pi instead. Its really neat, lol.
I remember having to build a manual calculator for a comp eng class ages ago, and that was neat. It's definitely neat, but I think I'm all for "easy" nowadays.
 

Joystick

Member
Hope this is good since my DFGT hasn't been used since GT5.

I built one for my DFGT about 6 months ago for around $30 using these instructions but if you swap the Teensy for a cheaper alternative it's less than $10. No soldering required.

http://gimx.fr/wiki/index.php?title=DIY_USB_adapter_for_dummies

Works great in DRIVECLUB after setting a tighter wheel rotation in game and disabling rumble (not force feedback). There are a few tricks to getting it started right and avoiding disconnects. Read the usage instructions carefully.
 

cortega1

Neo Member
I guess there is no market - everyone who cares is just making their own.

There is an already made version of this that basically works the same. Its been speculated that the makers of it possibly used GIMX to create it. Its called the Reasnow Crosshair. To me its too expensive for what it is. I'd rather save the cash and have the fun playing around with the GIMX setup.

I've read in your previous comments that you don't want to make a DIY adapter. I felt the same way when I first read about it but eventually gave it a shot, and its been a fun experience. The whole process can be as simple, or as complicated as you want it to be. If you do decide to give it a shot and happen to run into any trouble along the way, there is a large community around GIMX that is more then willing to help out when you need it.
 

AmyS

Member
Does anyone know how the Thrustmaster T300 works with Daytona USA on PS3?

Logitech G27 works for that, but can't afford both.

Any deals on the T300 this week?

5/21/2016:
If you are signed up to Fry's email codes, they have the T300/TX for $219.99 today.

Got a TX 458 waiting for me at the store.

Are they likely to have this deal again soon? I've never bought anything from Fry's before, but I signed up for the email codes.

I need some feedback on the G27 and T300, thanks in advance.
 

cortega1

Neo Member
Does anyone know how the Thrustmaster T300 works with Daytona USA on PS3?

Logitech G27 works for that, but can't afford both.

Any deals on the T300 this week?

5/21/2016:


Are they likely to have this deal again soon? I've never bought anything from Fry's before, but I signed up for the email codes.

I need some feedback on the G27 and T300, thanks in advance.

I've never played Dayton USA on the PS3 or used the T300 with my PS3 yet, but I have both. The G27 is a great wheel, but the T300 is on a slightly higher level in my personal opinion. The G27 feels the exact same to me on the PS4 using GIMX as it did on the PS3. I don't think the T300 is worth full price for any reason, and I happened to get a really good deal on mine... which happened to also be at frys electronics. I personally like that the T300 uses a single motor because of the feel when the force feedback changes directions. I personally feel like there is a slight deadzone where the two motors of the G27 almost feel as if they are fighting each other for a second when force feedback changes direction. It's definitely not a deal breaker to me, and I didn't really notice it until I got the T300. When using the T300 I get a better sensation of the under-steer of a car in game due to the dampening of the T300's belt drive vs G27's helical gears. The T300 also has a slightly larger wheel (2 cm diameter) and I'm personally a fan of the rubber grip on the wheel over the leather of the G27. I like to grip it gives me and don't mind the feel. When I first made my GIMX adapter I bought both Drive Club and Project Cars, but I ended up playing Project Cars all the time and just played Drive Club every once and a while because it had to much of an arcade feel to me. The lack of proper H gate and clutch support also didn't help either. When I got the T300 Drive Club became a more fun experience because of the different force feedback feel. I feel like the force feedback gives it a slightly more realistic feel. To me Project Cars is ridiculous amounts of fun with both wheels, but each has a different feel to me. Since my wife got me a TH8A shifter, I like the T300 setup more just because of the quality of the shifter, its 7th gear, and dedicated gate for reverse. Before I received the TH8A, I would use the G27 a lot more because using the H gate is the most enjoyable part of racing games to me. Basically when you buy a T300, your money goes towards the wheelbase and wheel. The pedals that come with the T300 are crap, and mine have been sitting in the box since they were put in there by the manufacture. I already had another set of G27 pedals which I had intended to modify to avoid voiding the year and a half left on my G27 warranty. I bought an adapter to use them with the T300, and I will say having 10 bits of resolution (1024 steps) compared to the original 8 bits of resolution (256 steps) makes the pedals feel even better. I do get thrown off a bit when I go back to the G27 since the pedal sets are the same. Before I bought a proper wheel-stand I would just swap out the wheelbases and used the same set of pedals. If you're considering the sales price of a T300 I would suggest you also factor in the price of another set of pedals (or if you already have G27/G25 pedals an adapter, ~$30 shipped), and if you want it, the H gate shifter as well. To be honest though, I have been using the G27 more lately because I like improving/tinkering with my GIMX setup, reading about it on forums, and making videos about it. In my personal opinion, if you already have a G27 and put together a GIMX adapter, the T300 is not worth the upgrade to get an equivalent setup with H gate and the set of pedals with a clutch you'll need. If you don't have a wheel though, it could be worth it, but factor in the total cost for the setup you want. As far as being future proof goes, basically if a game on the PS4 is compatible with the G29, a G27 (G25 or DFGT) wheel with GIMX adapter should work for the foreseeable future. To end my rant, I bought a T300 and its a great experience, but (for now) I still have my G27 with GIMX setup which is also a great experience as well.
 

AmyS

Member
Thank you cortega1 for writing that reply.

I'm gettin' a cup of coffee, will read your post carefully and consider what the best option for me is.
 

cortega1

Neo Member
Ahhhhh, I still don't know if I should pull the trigger on a G27 or T300.

I was too busy typing out my rant to see your post. When comparing them, factor in the total price of each as your "ideal" setups. I talk about both in my rant, but the T300 advertised for $220, or whatever price it is when you buy it, is probably going to need a new set of pedals, and if you want one, an H gate shifter, so factor those costs in as well. Also consider how you feel about the 3 year (if its still that long) vs 1 year warranty. I'm not telling you to get one over the other, just trying to provide you with my experience so you can make a more informed decision.
 

Fusebox

Banned
You don't need to solder. Just follow a combination of this http://gimx.fr/wiki/index.php?title=DIY_USB_adapter_for_dummies and this http://gimx.fr/wiki/index.php?title=DIY_USB_adapter. If you get a Teensy board with pins, then there is no need to solder.

Right on, I'm awesome at not soldering stuff.

Goddamn the Teensy 2.0 with pins is an elusive bit of kit in Australia, looks like I'm gonna have to pay AUS$50 to land one from the US - still worth it if it means DFGT + Driveclub with force feedback intact, that's damn enticing.

edit: Just ordered a Teensy from the US and that other USB-to-pins things from HK, now to wait....

Can I map the buttons on the DFGT to do anything? Do the standard controller buttons on the wheel still work as expected?
 

AmyS

Member
I was too busy typing out my rant to see your post. When comparing them, factor in the total price of each as your "ideal" setups. I talk about both in my rant, but the T300 advertised for $220, or whatever price it is when you buy it, is probably going to need a new set of pedals, and if you want one, an H gate shifter, so factor those costs in as well. Also consider how you feel about the 3 year (if its still that long) vs 1 year warranty. I'm not telling you to get one over the other, just trying to provide you with my experience so you can make a more informed decision.

I'm 90% sure I'll go for the T300. Now I just need to know how to actually get the $220 price I'm assuming that is the T300RS package (and crappy pedals) and not just the servo base unit.

Fry's normal price is $399. Walmart and GameStop online prices are $299. Amazon also.

Edit: Nevermind, I found saw the email code for my account with Frys.
 

cortega1

Neo Member
Right on, I'm awesome at not soldering stuff.

Goddamn the Teensy 2.0 with pins is an elusive bit of kit in Australia, looks like I'm gonna have to pay AUS$50 to land one from the US - still worth it if it means DFGT + Driveclub with force feedback intact, that's damn enticing.

Can I map the buttons on the DFGT to do anything? Do the standard controller buttons on the wheel still work as expected?

As far as I know, if you are using the DFGT profile in GIMX you are using a predetermined configuration, but there is probably a way to change them if you really wanted to. In Driveclub you can change what a few buttons do, and if you get Project Cars, you can determine more things that you probably have buttons for.
 

cortega1

Neo Member
I'm 90% sure I'll go for the T300. Now I just need to know how to actually get the $220 price I'm assuming that is the T300RS package (and crappy pedals) and not just the servo base unit.

Fry's normal price is $399. Walmart and GameStop online prices are $299. Amazon also.

The $220 was for the T300RS package. I remember seeing that code. I don't think fry's electronics sells the servo base anyways. A place called B&H photo (or something like that) also should have it for $299 online. Just wait for fry's to code sale it again or an amazon price drop. It will most likely go on sale again. Also Thrustmaster just unveiled a new PS4 wheel at the Grand Tourismo event in England last month that will probably be released later this year. If you can hold out, the T300 price will probably drop at more locations. I would suggest buying a new set of pedals. G27 pedals go for a good price in the States on ebay, and in my opinion are some of the pedals for the price, and are easily modified.

Sorry to everyone else for getting sidetracked from the GIMX conversation.
 

MGR

Member
Does anyone know how the Thrustmaster T300 works with Daytona USA on PS3?

Logitech G27 works for that, but can't afford both.

Any deals on the T300 this week?

5/21/2016:


Are they likely to have this deal again soon? I've never bought anything from Fry's before, but I signed up for the email codes.

I need some feedback on the G27 and T300, thanks in advance.


Re: Support for Daytona USA PS3
Logitech G25/G27/Driving Force Pro - Yes
New Logitech G29 - Yes (Recognised as a Driving Force Pro)
Thrustmaster (all) - No

If you need PS4 support then go straight to the G29 which also offers the best backward compatibility the PS3 games. These external adapters in this thread are a massive PITA. You're in a fortunate position where you haven't already invested in a G27.

Deals like what Fry's were offering are just random. Sometimes a supplier for whatever reason gets lumped with a bunch of aged inventory and they just dump it below cost to get rid of it. It's too hard to individually look at aged each item on a case by case basis so once they start gathering a little dust they just dump it and move on.

I personally think the T300 is worth the extra money but I've also had a couple of small issues with both the pedals and the flappy paddle switch. Didn't need to return it but did pull apart myself to fix. My G25 got a flogging for years and the only issue was the dirty pots in the pedals. Quick spray of electrical cleaner fixed that, but otherwise solid as a rock.

Personally I think you should just pick up a cheapo secondhand G27 and try it out. A LOT of people find they aren't very good with it right away and just give up. If you do stick with it then keep a look out for a cheap deal in the meantime, then dump the G27 when you buy a nice new T300 or whatever the flavour of the month is by then.

Whatever you go with be prepared to mount it properly and securely, and that you're very comfortable while using it. Otherwise they're all a waste of time and money IMO.
 

firehawk12

Subete no aware
There is an already made version of this that basically works the same. Its been speculated that the makers of it possibly used GIMX to create it. Its called the Reasnow Crosshair. To me its too expensive for what it is. I'd rather save the cash and have the fun playing around with the GIMX setup.

I've read in your previous comments that you don't want to make a DIY adapter. I felt the same way when I first read about it but eventually gave it a shot, and its been a fun experience. The whole process can be as simple, or as complicated as you want it to be. If you do decide to give it a shot and happen to run into any trouble along the way, there is a large community around GIMX that is more then willing to help out when you need it.
Maybe I'll take another look into this when GT Sport comes out. I guess things are probably a little more streamlined a year later, at least.
 

cortega1

Neo Member
Thank you very much; I had seen the thread you linked, but I was under a bit of confusion regarding what to use as a DIY usb adapter.

Ordered that teensy board today, let's see what I can do!

I got permission from Rudi to link to his post (here http://gimx.fr/forum/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=1687). Everything needed is there if you want to forego the USB UART and use the pinouts on the RPI directly to the Teensy 2.0 + to streamline your setup. Basically the DIY adapter becomes part of the RPi. He is using an older model B like myself, but the pinouts are the same as the RPi2, and he is using the exact same board you linked above in his setup.
 

cortega1

Neo Member
Thank you very much; I had seen the thread you linked, but I was under a bit of confusion regarding what to use as a DIY usb adapter.

Ordered that teensy board today, let's see what I can do!

To correct my last post, the old B that he is using does not have the exact same GPIO pin layout at the Raspberry Pi 2, with 26 on his B vs 40 on your B 2, but the pins he is using appear to be in the same place. Pins 2 (5v), 6 (ground), 8 (GPIO14/UART0_TXD), and 10 (GPIO15/UART0_RXD)

This page (here http://www.raspberrypi-spy.co.uk/2012/06/simple-guide-to-the-rpi-gpio-header-and-pins/#prettyPhoto) shows the GPIO pinouts for all of the Pi models available.
 

AmyS

Member
Got a G27 today. Enjoying it with Daytona :)

Got a couple questions, not about the G27 itself specifically... would it be worth it to get a copy of DiRT 3 Complete Edition for PS3 ?

No Gamestop within 100 miles of me has a copy and I'm near Chicago.Alternatively, I could just buy the basic game on PSN. Overall is Dirt 3 on PS3 with G27 enjoyable ?

I know full well it's much more arcade-y than Dirt Rally/

So it's really down to Dirt 3 or WRC 4/5
 

cortega1

Neo Member
Got a G27 today. Enjoying it with Daytona :)

Got a couple questions, not about the G27 itself specifically... would it be worth it to get a copy of DiRT 3 Complete Edition for PS3 ?

No Gamestop within 100 miles of me has a copy and I'm near Chicago.Alternatively, I could just buy the basic game on PSN. Overall is Dirt 3 on PS3 with G27 enjoyable ?

I know full well it's much more arcade-y than Dirt Rally/

So it's really down to Dirt 3 or WRC 4/5

Congratulations on the new wheel. The G27 is great wheel. I've never played Dirt 3 with the G27, but every other racing game I've played is way more enjoyable with a wheel vs a controller. Did you happen to find it new, or did you get it used? If the latter, a brake mod should be your next venture... There are a bunch of them out there, and you can spend from a little over $20 up to hundreds. Best part is, GIMX will be there for you when you want to play PS4 racing games with the G27... and from what I've seen, it just keeps getting better and better as people keep innovating their setups.
 

cortega1

Neo Member
I finally got my hands on a USB ampmeter. The one I picked up can read voltage, amperage, and also keeps a record of accumulated amperage. I am using a Raspberry Pi B with 700mhz and 256mb ram for my GIMX automated setup.

I connected the ampmeter to the PS4's USB port. I read slightly over 5 volts and had amp readings from ~540ma to slightly over 600ma. The accumulated amperage was 55ma after a 5 minute run.

I connected the ampmeter to the power going into the RPi. I read slightly under 5 volts and had amp readings from ~330ma to near 400ma at times. The accumulated amperage was 35ma after a 5 minute run.

I also attempted to get readings from the controller by connected the meter between the controller and RPi, and I also tried to get readings between the PS4 and the GIMX uart end but was unable to get readings in these configurations.

Comparing the two successful runs, it appears that the GIMX DIY adapter, and/or a backfeed into the DS4 controller (I have the DIY adapter and DS4 controller connected through the same hub), is consuming ~200ma. I will keep playing around with the meter to see if I can get readings through other configurations and report back if I find anything else interesting.
 

cortega1

Neo Member
I got an RPi 3 in the mail today. I was able to load Raspbian on an sd and update it through the RPi, load GIMX, and create the GUI run automation file in a little under an hour. I didn't have much time to actually use the setup, but it starts up and is ready to go in like 10 seconds now (compared to the 45 seconds it took the RPi model B). It doesn't even go though a full wheel calibration. I'm not sure if thats bad or not. I only had time to navigate through menus on the PS4, but I've been able to power and communicate with the RPi 3 using 1 usb port on the USB. I had the USB meter connected and It spiked up to 900+ma a couple of times, but I also haven't disabled wifi and bluetooth yet. I'll get in a race or two when I get a chance and report back.
 

Shaneus

Member
I got an RPi 3 in the mail today. I was able to load Raspbian on an sd and update it through the RPi, load GIMX, and create the GUI run automation file in a little under an hour. I didn't have much time to actually use the setup, but it starts up and is ready to go in like 10 seconds now (compared to the 45 seconds it took the RPi model B). It doesn't even go though a full wheel calibration. I'm not sure if thats bad or not. I only had time to navigate through menus on the PS4, but I've been able to power and communicate with the RPi 3 using 1 usb port on the USB. I had the USB meter connected and It spiked up to 900+ma a couple of times, but I also haven't disabled wifi and bluetooth yet. I'll get in a race or two when I get a chance and report back.
Oh god, if we can get a plug and play solution, even if it involves a Pi, it'd be wonderful.

Only problem then would be trying to remember what buttons on the G27 map to the PS4 wheel.
 

cortega1

Neo Member
Oh god, if we can get a plug and play solution, even if it involves a Pi, it'd be wonderful.

Only problem then would be trying to remember what buttons on the G27 map to the PS4 wheel.

The buttons that I remember off the top of my head, are
-on the shifter-
-----------------
-the black buttons

----(triangle)
(square) (circle)
--------(x)

-directional buttons are self explanatory

-The red buttons (from left to right)

(PS) (share) (option) (not sure) <- might simulate the touchpad press?

-on the wheel-
-----------------
-paddles

(L2) (R2)

-wheel
---(L1)---------(R1)
(not sure)--(not sure)
---(L3)---------(R3)
---------------------
-I might be backwards on the L3/R3 and the not sure buttons, so it could be
---------------------
---(L1)---------(R1)
---(L3)---------(R3)
(not sure)--(not sure)

In Project cars you can remap everything via press of a buttons, but the only problem is that Project cars wants more things assigned then there are buttons on the G27 and you can't get out with saved settings until you have its minimum requirement for assigned features. It was a while ago, but I did finally get everything it wanted assigned.
In drive club you can't assign anything to buttons that aren't the same buttons that are on a DS4 controller.
 
A Raspberry Pi set to autorun the GIMX software is plug and play is it not? Whenever I plug my build in it autoruns the GIMX and config for my wheel and its good to go.
 
Does anyone know how the Thrustmaster T300 works with Daytona USA on PS3?

Logitech G27 works for that, but can't afford both.

Any deals on the T300 this week?

5/21/2016:


Are they likely to have this deal again soon? I've never bought anything from Fry's before, but I signed up for the email codes.

I need some feedback on the G27 and T300, thanks in advance.

I use my T300rs with Daytona USA PS3 on regular basis (Me and my friends love playing it) and it's works great. Be sure to dial up the force feedback in the game's option for that complete arcade experience!

Edit: I didn't see the date LOL
 
I hardly consider under 20 seconds to be a wait.

I just took my wheelstand out the closet in another room and set up the whole gimx/pie thing in under 6 minutes. It only took about 10 seconds of that for gimx and ps4 to recognize the wheel.
 

Fusebox

Banned
Rightio, made my little box with my Teensy and my USB adaptor - now to setup one of my Pi's!

Can I use a combo of the Teensy/USB adapt and the Pi? So I don't want to connect cables to the Pi, just plug in my little box of bits but the GIMX guide seems to be focused around hooking it up with the pin-outs on the Pi...
 

Ogawa-san

Member
RPI just replaces a computer for a more compact setup. You can probably work something out with the GPIO but it's not necessary.

The author says something about FF latency due to its low(er) processing power though, but I can't say I noticed.
 

Fusebox

Banned
Yeah got gimx installed on the Pi with the DFGT profile now, pretty sure everything is setup but I get a "No Controller Detected" when I load gimx from the Pi.

Hopefully that's just because my DFGT isn't plugged in atm and when I get home this arvo it'll just work.

Edit: nope it was because I didn't have a ds4 plugged into my Pi, one of those steps that isn't obvious.
 

Fusebox

Banned
It's working!! Using the wheel in Driveclub feels a little stiffer than I remember it being in GT5 on PS3 - might just be the car I was testing. Anyone tweak the settings to make it feel better?
 

Fusebox

Banned
Turned vibration off and changed ffb from 70% to 60% and it feels bloody ace now. Shouts out to everyone who made this possible.
 

Nerix

Member
It was quite a hassle to set it up, but my DFGT works now with my PS4 (tested it with Project Cars a week ago or so).

Thx for this thread, wouldn't have heard about it otherwise.
 

Fixed1979

Member
Finally looking to get this setup for PSVR goodness. The process has been made slightly easier with the development of a single board "TIAO GIMX GBoard - Game Input MultipleXer / MatriX (USB Serial and ATMEGA32U4 Development Board)".

Pretty sure this is the route I'll be taking, downfalls are it's slightly more expensive and larger than if you bought the pieces separately and put it together yourself. The upside is that it's easy, one purchase from one location and no assembly or chance of getting the wrong thing. Anyway, just figured I'd post this for anyone who may be looking to do this in the future.

GIMX BLOG said:
TIAO GBoard
Posted on 5 July 2016 by Matlo
Disclaimer: I am not involved in any way in the diygadget.com company. Neither am I involved in the TIAO GBoard manufacturing. If you have issues loading a GIMX firmware on a TIAO GBoard, please ask for help on the TIAO forum first.

Earlier this year, diygadget.com has released the TIAO GBoard. Thanks to diygadget.com for donating a TIAO GBoard and 90&#8364; to the GIMX project!

At this time the board is sold at a special price of $21.99 (regular price is $29.99). Of course it is somewhat more expensive than building the adapter yourself, but it is a very good option for people that don&#8217;t want to get through the hassle of making a DIY USB adapter. Another good point for buying this board is stability: disconnecting something when manipulating the board is very unlikely.

gimx-gboard-1Photo courtesy of diygadget.com.

This board embeds a FT231X chip and an atmega32u4 chip. Those chips can be easily connected together using jumpers. The board exposes all the pins of the chips through headers at the cost of a bigger size. This means it is possible to use it for other projects. For example it should be possible to convert it to an Arduino Leonardo -compatible board.

It has two mini USB female plugs:

the one on the left side is connected to the FT231X and has to be connected to the PC
the one on the right side is connected to the atmega32u4 and has to be connected to the console (or to the PC when loading a firmware)
There are three activity leds on the board:

RL indicates when data is being received
TL indicates when data is being transmitted
LED indicates when the atmega32u4 is reset
One of the very first tests I did was to test the USB to serial chip which is a FT231X from FTDI. For this task I have a small benchmark tool called gserial_test that measures the trip delay of a typical GIMX packet (2-byte header + 64-byte HID report). I&#8217;ll try to say more about this tool in a further blog post. The test showed the FT231X is working as expected. On Windows you have to adjust the &#8220;Latency Timer&#8221; setting.

Loading a firmware on the board is explained on the TIAO wiki. As a GNU/Linux user I tried using dfu-programmer and loading was successful. Using dfu-programmer or Atmel&#8217;s FLIP tool on Windows should work fine as well. The procedure is slightly harder than using the Teensy loader (which can only work with genuine Teensy boards).

To test that a firmware runs as expected on the TIAO GBoard, I connected the board to my PS4 and ran GIMX a whole night. During this long run test, some macros kept the PS4 active, sending left button presses followed by right button presses, in a loop. The commands were still taken by the PS4 after about 10 hours, which shows the board is performing as expected!
Source
 

grendelrt

Member
Finally looking to get this setup for PSVR goodness. The process has been made slightly easier with the development of a single board "TIAO GIMX GBoard - Game Input MultipleXer / MatriX (USB Serial and ATMEGA32U4 Development Board)".

Pretty sure this is the route I'll be taking, downfalls are it's slightly more expensive and larger than if you bought the pieces separately and put it together yourself. The upside is that it's easy, one purchase from one location and no assembly or chance of getting the wrong thing. Anyway, just figured I'd post this for anyone who may be looking to do this in the future.


Source
Ordered one of these today for psvr as well =) I have a PI 2 already, so I am good to go with these two correct?
 

DieH@rd

Banned
Gimx has a competitor now.

Latest Cronusmax dongle supports native emulation of G25 and G27 wheels into G29 signals. PC is not needed! All that is needed is latest Chronus dongle flashed to the latest software and a compatible 4-port USB 2.0 Hub.


Demonstration @ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gw-yDqGhBeE
Info @ http://cronusmax.com/cronus-pro-v1-10-cronusmax-plus-v1-21-firmware-released/
Purchase @ http://shop.controllermax.com/cronusmax-plus.html


If GTSport comes close and there is no G27 support, I will most likely get this.
 

Ogawa-san

Member
Not convenient enough for me to spend on a different solution. No PC is nice, but that's quite the ritual to get it started... and it's every time.

Considering that and the fact it needs a powered hub to keep the DS4 and wheel, I guess something as convenient as a "dumb" adapter is too far-fetched :(
 

DieH@rd

Banned
Not convenient enough for me to spend on a different solution. No PC is nice, but that's quite the ritual to get it started... and it's every time.

And ritual with the CRAFTING of the GIMX hardware and connecting everything to the PC every time is easier how?

Chronus software needs to be tweaked once, and from there everything is plug and play.
 

cortega1

Neo Member
I remember having to build a manual calculator for a comp eng class ages ago, and that was neat. It's definitely neat, but I think I'm all for "easy" nowadays.

Apparently the cronusmax plus with firmware v1.22 now supports the H gate and force feedback for the G25 and G27. They describe it as emulating a G29, so it should be the same experience as a GIMX adapter and give full support. The only thing extra you need is a usb hub and controller to plug in for authentication.

Edit: Just used my eyes to read DieH@rd's post. Sorry for the repeat.
 
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