Nice setup. Black os the way.4080 is in, all working!
4080 vs 3080ti
Nice setup. Black os the way.4080 is in, all working!
4080 vs 3080ti
Such a good build, would be better without a 4080 but oww well.4080 is in, all working!
4080 vs 3080ti
Yep, this is what annoys me as a small form factor PC gamer. Even if I wanted to upgrade my 3080Ti, I’d need a new case. Ridiculous. I’m hoping the next series does not have a massive card on the high end. If it does, well, guess that’s the trend and I better get a new caseEven if these cards were reasonably priced, why are they still 3 slot beasts?
Why can't we get a 2 or 2 1/2 slot aib card like the 7900xtx?
It's like nothing makes any sense with this card.
This graph speaks volumes about how bad the 4080 really is.
This graph speaks volumes about how bad the 4080 really is.
They are selling and will continue to until something upsets the current product stack.
Overall everything scales linearly with performance at the moment. Is that what we've come to expect over the years from a generation to generation perspective? No. Does it suck? Yes.
But this is how things are now, especially considering AMD also decided to screw up their naming and make their cards overpriced for what they are.
This graph speaks volumes about how bad the 4080 really is.
I remember when $399 was a top end card. Then $500. Then $800. Then $1000 was insane. Now it's $1200 for a mid range card. Things really are getting out of hand.
I used to always go mid-range but now I'm considering the 4090 just because of the ridiculous price to performance ratio issue with the 4080. Either way, no buy until ATX 3.0 PSUs come out are proven not to burn down homes. Maybe by then, Nvidia will have a price cut.
Next gen the 5090 will be $1999 guaranteed. They very clearly under priced the 4090 given we're nearing 3 months of perpetual Sub-1-minute sell outs and average after market values are around $2400. There is no limit to the prices high end PC gamers will support.
Do you people think that the msi gaming trio is worth 30 euros more than the ventus OC?
So in pcpartpicker i switched the 6950 with the 4080 gaming trio and this message appeared:
The video card PCIe 16-pin power connector adapter is being supplied by three 6+2-pin power connectors. Please ensure that the three 6+2-pin power connectors are not daisy-chained and do not share the same power cable.
What does it mean?
I picked the exact moment where this guy show the adapter inside the gpu, is that "daisy chained and share the same power cable"?
Other than that, i'm having multiple orgasm watching benchmarks for this thing, this is a certified 4k60 gpu with a capitol emh...K?!
Well, i'm officially the (not so proud) owner of a Gigabyte rtx 4080 gaming OC
Black_Stride the msi was out of stock a couple of hours i asked you what model to buy, but i watched reviews for the giga and temps are glacial on this thing, if the msi was better, it was probably like 1°C better...
And i can still use msi afterburner with every brand of gpu.
You must detract the vat\iva for the real price.
You have to consider that the most i payed for a gpu in the past was 470 euros, now we are talking about 1100+ euros.Jesus Christ, you took quite some time to pull the trigger lol
You have to consider that the most i payed for a gpu in the past was 470 euros, now we are talking about 1100+ euros.
Since you are here, how trustworthy is pcpartpicker when it comes to ram\mobo compatibility?
Because the stupid msi site doens't list any ram over 5400mhz even if their mobo run 6400mhz ram in the specifics.
Now that i bought the gpu i have to close fast with the ram and cpu so i can complete the build.
Well done bro.Well, i'm officially the (not so proud) owner of a Gigabyte rtx 4080 gaming OC
Black_Stride the msi was out of stock a couple of hours i asked you what model to buy, but i watched reviews for the giga and temps are glacial on this thing, if the msi was better, it was probably like 1°C better...
And i can still use msi afterburner with every brand of gpu.
You must detract the vat\iva for the real price.
Chances are there were not 6400Mhz ram kits when the compatibility list was compiled.You have to consider that the most i payed for a gpu in the past was 470 euros, now we are talking about 1100+ euros.
I had to convince my balls before pulling the trigger.
Since you are here, how trustworthy is pcpartpicker when it comes to ram\mobo compatibility?
Because the stupid msi site doens't list any ram over 5400mhz even if their mobo run 6400mhz ram in the specifics.
Now that i bought the gpu i have to close fast with the ram and cpu so i can complete the build.
I found some patriot vipers 6000mhz cl 36 at a great price.Well done bro.
I may be joining you soon after GTC Spring.
Took a while but you have atleast passed the first hurdle.
Now its time to complete the beast.
Chances are there were not 6400Mhz ram kits when the compatibility list was compiled.
6400Mhz is a JEDEC standard....I would think most kits will work.
The Pro-A is a really receptive motherboard.
But you can all but never go wrong with Corsair.
When in doubt....Vengeance
Unless the prices are really really similar, 5600Mhz CL36 really is the sweetspot for DDR5 cost/performance
I found some patriot vipers 6000mhz cl 36 at a greqt price.
There must be a way to check if they are compatible
I checked but it doesn't work properly or it just doesn't show anything over 5600mhz.Check your motherboard support page, there should be a QVL list of memory kits supported.
I checked but it doesn't work properly or it just doesn't show anything over 5600mhz.
This is the seriao number of the ram: PVV532G600C36K
And this is the compatibility page
PRO Z690-A
PRO series motherboards, tuned for better performance by Core Boost, Memory Boost, Extended Heatsink Design, M.2 Shield Frozr, USB 3.2 Gen 2x2, Lightning Gen5, Front Type-C, 2.5G LANwww.msi.com
Edit: i think they are not compatible, strange because the 5600mhz model was compatible...
Does it make a big difference going with 5600 vs 6000?
Yeah but i want to avoid not being able to build the whole thing because i chose not-working ram, i need to have some degree of certainty.The QVL list is just a list of tested memory kits.
Just because it's not listed, does not mean it won't work.
Remember that all these kits follow JEDEC standard.
Would the general populace spend thousands of dollars financing AI research and advancing this field if you asked them? NOOOO!Yep, it's gonna be a shit show.
Nvidia wants to be the Apple of GPU. Fuck em.
Do you know what it takes to build a fucking ram module? What are the initial investment for a factory of building these?Yeah but i want to avoid not being able to build the whole thing because i chose not-working ram, i need to have some degree of certainty.
If 5600 vs 6000 is like 1 frame of difference i'm just gonna buy the corsair 5600 that are listed as compatible.
I just wanted to go all out with 6000mhz after buying a 4080, but i guess 5600 is good enough.
P.s. the ram not being enlisted in the official motherboard compatibility page is not a big enough proof??
I heard that many times these cheap mobo can't even run the factory oc in the ram properly, so the higher you go, the more risk of the ram not actually running at those high frequencies.
While the Pro-A is "cheap" it isnt actually a cheap motherboard.Yeah but i want to avoid not being able to build the whole thing because i chose not-working ram, i need to have some degree of certainty.
If 5600 vs 6000 is like 1 frame of difference i'm just gonna buy the corsair 5600 that are listed as compatible.
I just wanted to go all out with 6000mhz after buying a 4080, but i guess 5600 is good enough.
P.s. the ram not being enlisted in the official motherboard compatibility page is not a big enough proof??
I heard that many times these cheap mobo can't even run the factory oc in the ram properly, so the higher you go, the more risk of the ram not actually running at those high frequencies.
I don't know what the fuck are you talking about dude.Do you know what it takes to build a fucking ram module? What are the initial investment for a factory of building these?
So after spending a shitton of money on that they will surely release out of spec modules and ruin their reputation .
Then i'm just gonna go with the corsair 5600, they are both cl36 in the end.While the Pro-A is "cheap" it isnt actually a cheap motherboard.
Its still a Z series motherboard.
The QVL list is as winjer stated.....just what MSI actually have tested....but 9 times out of 10 many many many many more kits will be compatible.
Also remember that if you get a kit thats faster than what the motherboard/cpu can support the MB will just revert to the JEDEC standard 4800Mhz and you can manually OC till you get stable.
Also the Z690 Pro-A was a 12th gen MB, officially 12th gen doesnt actually support 6400Mhz so chances are they havent bothered testing kits that fast with a 13th gen in the Pro-A.
If you look at the Z790 Pro-A page they have 6000 kits listed.
You can be sure the Z690 with the latest BIOS and a 13th gen will easily munch through 6000Mhz.
Maybe you can use the Z790s page as reference
PRO Z790-A WIFI
PRO series motherboards tuned for better performance by 16 Duet Rail Power System, DDR5 memory, Lightning Gen5 PCIe, Pre-installed IO, Extended Heatsink, M.2 Shield Frozr, Wi-Fi 6E, 2.5G LAN, USB 3.2 Gen 2x2www.msi.com
5600 vs 6000 will be imperceptible in gaming.
Hell even 5600 vs 6400 is borderline as I stated earlier.
Yeah but i want to avoid not being able to build the whole thing because i chose not-working ram, i need to have some degree of certainty.
If 5600 vs 6000 is like 1 frame of difference i'm just gonna buy the corsair 5600 that are listed as compatible.
I just wanted to go all out with 6000mhz after buying a 4080, but i guess 5600 is good enough.
P.s. the ram not being enlisted in the official motherboard compatibility page is not a big enough proof??
I heard that many times these cheap mobo can't even run the factory oc in the ram properly, so the higher you go, the more risk of the ram not actually running at those high frequencies.
Then i'm just gonna go with the corsair 5600, they are both cl36 in the end.
I aksed because in the specifics of the mobo they say compatible with 6400mhz ra, so i thought 6000 was A-ok.
While the Pro-A is "cheap" it isnt actually a cheap motherboard.
Its still a Z series motherboard.
The QVL list is as winjer stated.....just what MSI actually have tested....but 9 times out of 10 many many many many more kits will be compatible.
Also remember that if you get a kit thats faster than what the motherboard/cpu can support the MB will just revert to the JEDEC standard 4800Mhz and you can manually OC till you get stable.
Also the Z690 Pro-A was a 12th gen MB, officially 12th gen doesnt actually support 6400Mhz so chances are they havent bothered testing kits that fast with a 13th gen in the Pro-A.
If you look at the Z790 Pro-A page they have 6000 kits listed.
You can be sure the Z690 with the latest BIOS and a 13th gen will easily munch through 6000Mhz.
Maybe you can use the Z790s page as reference
PRO Z790-A WIFI
PRO series motherboards tuned for better performance by 16 Duet Rail Power System, DDR5 memory, Lightning Gen5 PCIe, Pre-installed IO, Extended Heatsink, M.2 Shield Frozr, Wi-Fi 6E, 2.5G LAN, USB 3.2 Gen 2x2www.msi.com
5600 vs 6000 will be imperceptible in gaming.
Hell even 5600 vs 6400 is borderline as I stated earlier.
DDR5 buddy.I think there is an issue with that HU test. After a certain memory speed, Intel CPUs automatically apply a different memory gear mode. I forget the exact clock number.
This reduces effective memory transfer rates, resulting in lower performance than expected.
The user, when overclocking memory has to manually set the proper Gear mode, or might see a small improvement, or even a reduction in performance.
Then you run those rams at lower speeds. Btw Overclock is for monkeys. You pay a hefty price just to be able to overclock your shit.I don't know what the fuck are you talking about dude.
If it is the fact that some mobos don't work well with high frequency ram and they can't keep a stable overclock, just go read the problems with gigabyte motherboards that gygabyte still haven't fixed.
If that it was not what you meant, maybe spend 2 min putting a subject and a context so even people like me can understand whay you are trying to say.
Not sure why i'm even wasting time with you after the forspoken debacle, you sound like a low level troll tbh.
I always write back, ignore function is for pussies who can't handle some innocent trolling or different opinions, and i'm not really a dude who keep a grudge with anyone for long.Then you run those rams at lower speeds. Btw Overclock is for monkeys. You pay a hefty price just to be able to overclock your shit.
Low level troll? And yet you write back. I must be at least lvl 7 with high charisma and a kitchen knife.
DDR5 buddy.
When will you ever be in Gear 1?
Yup with DDR5 the JEDEC minimum is 4800 so you are already in Gear 2, there no realistic situation in which youll have DDR5 running well below spec.So I checked where I tough I had seen that info about gear modes. My mistake.
It was about DDR4 at 4000MT/s or higher, that will set Gear mode to 2. Not DDR5.
Yup with DDR5 the JEDEC minimum is 4800 so you are already in Gear 2, there no realistic situation in which youll have DDR5 running well below spec.
Im sure theres some crazy overclockers out there trying to Gear 1 DDR5 but for us laymen we dont have to worry about Gears atleast for 12th and 13th gen.
They will be in Gear 2 with DDR5 regardless.
As a non-K user I just go for the lowest latency memory I can get cuz non-K can be iffy with higher speeds.
Depending on the reviews of the 13th gen non-K i5s im either gonna do a 134/5 upgrade or 136K.
Before you ask why upgrade a 12400 which is already eating through every game I play.
I want dem e-cores!
So I have been having issues with my 4080. Here is a copy/paste post I made on the Nvidia forums. I also want to add that the biggest thing that sucks about this is that I cant replicate it. Its completely random.
4080 Founders Edition I am experiencing artifact/black screen flickering on a LG C2. Installed on December 29th and the artifact flickering started about a few days after instillation. Turned debug on and it is still flickering. I had the previous driver and it was doing the same thing. Should I return?
Windows 11 ( fully updated )
Intel i7 12700k
MSI Z690 Unify X motherboard ( current bios )
32gb Corsair DDR5 5600
(2) Samsung 1tb 980 pros nvme
1000 watt EVGA G6
Nvidia 4080
All stock
EDIT 3, 1/9/23: I reinstalled drivers. I installed gpu bios firmware. I checked cables by unplugging and plugging ONLY the adapter to the card and hdmi cable ( card and tv ). Ran a memory check, which was good. I was still getting black screen flickering periodically but no artifacts. I finally decided to fully remove all cables. I noticed one of the vga cables pin insert that connects to the adapter was missing/damaged. Cool, swapped cable out. I also removed Corsair icue because internet said it was bad and causing issues/black screen with previous gpu's/drivers. Now I am crossing my fingers hoping this will remedy the issue.
EDIT 4, 1/11/23: Whelp black screen flickering started again on this edited date from the previous edit. So everything was fine for maybe a day or two? It started with MW2/Steam running during a match of Invasion. After the match I closed everything out and the black screen flickering continued during Edge/desktop use. Something important I have been noticing as I am sitting here. The tv begins to dim periodically, black screen occurs, and immediately gets brighter. I almost certain I have all dimming options off on the set. Another big oof, I turned hdr on through Windows and I am getting artifact flashing/flashing. After reboot with hdr on everything seems to be fine. *sighs* Whats my options? I have until the 14th for returns. I have a spare pc with, 7700k, 1080TI, DDR4 ram, and 850 Corsair psu. I also have a spare 6800XT.
The TV dimming is an OLED thing and it will keep happening unless you deactivate it from the service menu which is not recommended but you can go for it if you haven't.
I'm pretty sure there's a flickering issue when you run games on windowed mode + VRR, I've seen it before but can't recall where, but I know there's no fix available yet (might've been in AVSFORUMS) try playing full screen and see if you can replicate it that way, if you can't then it's that. If not I would try to return/exchange it.
So I have been having issues with my 4080. Here is a copy/paste post I made on the Nvidia forums. I also want to add that the biggest thing that sucks about this is that I cant replicate it. Its completely random.
4080 Founders Edition I am experiencing artifact/black screen flickering on a LG C2. Installed on December 29th and the artifact flickering started about a few days after instillation. Turned debug on and it is still flickering. I had the previous driver and it was doing the same thing. Should I return?
Windows 11 ( fully updated )
Intel i7 12700k
MSI Z690 Unify X motherboard ( current bios )
32gb Corsair DDR5 5600
(2) Samsung 1tb 980 pros nvme
1000 watt EVGA G6
Nvidia 4080
All stock
EDIT 3, 1/9/23: I reinstalled drivers. I installed gpu bios firmware. I checked cables by unplugging and plugging ONLY the adapter to the card and hdmi cable ( card and tv ). Ran a memory check, which was good. I was still getting black screen flickering periodically but no artifacts. I finally decided to fully remove all cables. I noticed one of the vga cables pin insert that connects to the adapter was missing/damaged. Cool, swapped cable out. I also removed Corsair icue because internet said it was bad and causing issues/black screen with previous gpu's/drivers. Now I am crossing my fingers hoping this will remedy the issue.
EDIT 4, 1/11/23: Whelp black screen flickering started again on this edited date from the previous edit. So everything was fine for maybe a day or two? It started with MW2/Steam running during a match of Invasion. After the match I closed everything out and the black screen flickering continued during Edge/desktop use. Something important I have been noticing as I am sitting here. The tv begins to dim periodically, black screen occurs, and immediately gets brighter. I almost certain I have all dimming options off on the set. Another big oof, I turned hdr on through Windows and I am getting artifact flashing/flashing. After reboot with hdr on everything seems to be fine. *sighs* Whats my options? I have until the 14th for returns. I have a spare pc with, 7700k, 1080TI, DDR4 ram, and 850 Corsair psu. I also have a spare 6800XT.