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Improve your Wireless Network thread! (Wireless Tech Heads wanted)

ianswoody

Member
Alright, I'm having some trouble as well. I've never had any connection problems with my current setup, but it seems my new PS3 purchase is coming back to haunt me. So far, everything has been just plug and play and everything worked out fine. But with the PS3, when it tries updating a game or my Folding@Home, it disconnects and breaks connection for all other wireless units in my house. I tried going into my router settings, but weirdly enough, I get sent to my modem's settings (Actiontec M1000 DSL through Qwest). So, in other words, I wouldn't be able to apply the tips and tricks stated so far in this thread. Any ideas?
 

Javaman

Member
ianswoody said:
Alright, I'm having some trouble as well. I've never had any connection problems with my current setup, but it seems my new PS3 purchase is coming back to haunt me. So far, everything has been just plug and play and everything worked out fine. But with the PS3, when it tries updating a game or my Folding@Home, it disconnects and breaks connection for all other wireless units in my house. I tried going into my router settings, but weirdly enough, I get sent to my modem's settings (Actiontec M1000 DSL through Qwest). So, in other words, I wouldn't be able to apply the tips and tricks stated so far in this thread. Any ideas?

Are you sure you're using the right IP address to access your router? A common default is 192.168.1.1. Are you running DHCP on the router to provide IP addresses or is the PS3 set to a static IP address?
 
Sciz said:
Alright GAF, I need your expert advice.

This is a rough diagram of my house. The screen on my laptop is dying out, so I've bought a new monitor to use in its stead. However, there's only one available place to set it up, which doesn't exactly have line-of-sight with the router, a standard Linksys WRT54G v5. Currently I can barely pick up the signal, but it's horrendously unstable and nearly unusable even when it does connect. The laptop doesn't have any sort of antenna and uses 802.11g, though I plan (hope) to build a proper desktop in the coming months, since the screen isn't the only component that's failing. Moving the router isn't an option. Also, there aren't any other networks in the neighborhood, at least that I've ever picked up.

What, then, will it take to get a stable and essentially full speed signal?

If you're going Wireless, cut the shit and get a new Router. The WRT54G is great, but not that great, and you'll still drop connections with Antennae.

Otherwise, buy some cat5 cable from Monoprice and start digging up baseboards.
 

ianswoody

Member
Man, I am dumb. I *WAS* using the wrong address, hence why I was ending up accessing my modem rather than my router. On the bright side though, I did upgrade both my modem AND my router's firmware, resulting in faster internet access and ZERO PS3 connection issues! Hooray progress.
 

Threi

notag
GAF, a question.

I have a wireless router, with ONE laptop (wireless) being used on the main floor and the rest being in the basement. Cables can be easily run, but i bought one and realized it's too short :(

Also, the modem MUST be on the top floor. (No telephone wires in the basement)

I have two wireless routers, a D-Link WBR-2310 (pretty unreliable) and a ASUS WL-520GU flashed w/ Tomato (solid as a rock, but i think i am going to go back to stock ASUS firmware)


I figure i should either:

1. Put the wireless router in the basement (Meaning i need to get more cables)

2. Use both routers, put the good router in the basement in bridge mode (but that makes the crappy router the main router - not a good idea)

3. Use both routers, put the crappy one in the basement and use it as a hub/switch





Currently all devices in the basement are Wireless, with the ports on the router being wasted.

I don't really want to buy any more equipment so suggestions?
 
I'm having some problems regarding my Belkin N1 Wireless router

Please, for the love of god, if anyone knows anything about this lemme know as I'm litterally going insane!



When we turn on the laptop, it finds and connects to my home network and the internet. We can browse, download, etc and it sees my home PC (wired connection to router) just fine.

After about 10-15mins it'll lose connection to the internet, but not the network. I can still see the PC and transfer files, etc just fine. It just completely drops connection to the net.

There's only 3 ways to reconnect it to the net.

  • Reboot Laptop
  • Diagnose/repair the connection - get new IP address
  • Diagnose/repair the connection - reset wireless card

After doing one of the above it works fine for another 10-15mins or so before losing NET connection again. IT ONLY LOSES A NET CONNECTION, it still sees the network just fine.


I've tried turning off the Windows firewall/Router firewall (so only one of them is running at any given time) - no difference. I've tried changing the routers channel - no difference. I've wiped the laptop and reinstalled everything again from scratch - no difference.

The only other device I use to connect wirelessly to the internet is the Wii, and that's just fine. I can play Mario Kart Wii online for as long as I please. It's only the laptop that loses internet use.





HALP!
 

Threi

notag
XP or Vista?

Vista gives me problems when i use the latest wireless card drivers for some reason, but the older ones work fine...
 
Vista

Anything hardwired is fine, as is the Wii (wireless). It's just the laptop that's having this problem.

It's an Acer Aspire 5315 (don't laugh, it came free with my mobile phone). It uses a Atheros AR5007EG Wireless Network Adapter.
 

Threi

notag
Monkeylord said:
Vista

Anything hardwired is fine, as is the Wii (wireless). It's just the laptop that's having this problem.

It's an Acer Aspire 5315 (don't laugh, it came free with my mobile phone). It uses a Atheros AR5007EG Wireless Network Adapter.
for what it's worth the wireless adapter i am talking about also has an Atheros chipset. Try finding the oldest Vista-compatible driver (or even WinXP as that worked for me) and don't let Vista update it.
 

dwin45

Member
What is the best wireless router that is a reasonable price? I don't want to spend $120. I'm looking for something that is less than $50. What is the best option?
 
Hey so I tried making a different thread, but I'll try posting here as well
I'm having some troubles with my Xbox 360 and my Router.
I'm currently using a D-Link WBR-2310 wireless router. It has 4 wired ports and my 360 is hooked into those.
I have no problem getting on xbox live, downloading content, or just playing, but I start having issues when I try to interact with my friends list.
If I send a chat invite, my friends never see it, and if they send me one and I try to accept it... my chat menu just clears and it looks like there are no invites or chats open.

When I plug the 360 directly into the modem, it works great, I can play, chat, invite with my friends and everything is a-ok. So I'm not sure if it is the router itself, some setting on the router, but I have no idea. I've tried contacting microsoft but I've gotten no response.
Thanks for the help!

I just tried turning on a DMZ, and that also didn't work.
 

lupin23rd

Member
Very useful topic. There was a guy pimping the WRT54G earlier in the thread.

I've got an older Linksys model and it's time for an upgrade.... thinking about this one (WRT54G2) here since it's a pretty low price point :lol

But my roommate and I are both Mac users so we were contemplating upping the price range and getting the Airport Base Station instead.

Can anyone me that the Airport is actually that much better than the Linksys (or if the Linksys one sucks).

I don't really need the best of the bunch, just something that will work - currently still on "b" so this "g" internet sounds appealing :lol
 

mrklaw

MrArseFace
is there not some software I can run that will give me a 'running commentary' on my wireless connection - eg throughput, and can let me try out different locations for my wireless access point, different channels etc and easily monitor the outcome?

at the moment, you change something like the channel, and have no idea the real result without trying it for a few days to see what it feels like. There must be something more useful than that?
 
lupin23rd said:
Very useful topic. There was a guy pimping the WRT54G earlier in the thread.

I've got an older Linksys model and it's time for an upgrade.... thinking about this one (WRT54G2) here since it's a pretty low price point :lol

But my roommate and I are both Mac users so we were contemplating upping the price range and getting the Airport Base Station instead.

Can anyone me that the Airport is actually that much better than the Linksys (or if the Linksys one sucks).

I don't really need the best of the bunch, just something that will work - currently still on "b" so this "g" internet sounds appealing :lol


If someone could answer these questions it would help out more than the OP. My routers WRT54G signal strength fluctuates a lot when my PS3 is trying to connect (anywhere from 30% - 75%) and so I was thinking of getting an Airport Base as well. Anyone with knowledge on whether this is a good choice or not?
 
Got a lot of help from this thread, thanks!

Got one more question though - my region free DVD player died a week or so ago and I haven't replaced it yet. In order to play my R1 movies I've been ripping them to play on my PS3 (wired).

Streaming is hit and miss, but playing from the console is fine so I've been copying the files to the PS3 - problem is that it can take 2 or more hours to copy over a 4GB+ file. Is there anything I can do to speed it up, or is this just the way it works?

Everything else I have (Laptop, 360) are fine when it comes to network speed, it's just my PS3 is slow as hell to transfer files.
 

Leatherface

Member
Anyone have experience with this router?:

33-124-284-01.jpg


WRT54G2


Also, is this compatible with tomato since it's still the WRT54g series?
 

Threi

notag
IIRC they changed chipsets and therefore wasn't compatible with custom firmware anymore. There were a lot of complaints about doing that though. I don't know if they switched back.

Looking at DD-WRT's supported hardware list though, I see that WRT54G2 V1.0 is supported.
 

Leatherface

Member
Threi said:
IIRC they changed chipsets and therefore wasn't compatible with custom firmware anymore. There were a lot of complaints about doing that though. I don't know if they switched back.

Looking at DD-WRT's supported hardware list though, I see that WRT54G2 V1.0 is supported.


excellent. Thanks for all your help btw. This is a great thread. :D
 

Lkr

Member
Going to bump this as I'm a junior and can't make a thread.


I'm moving, and I want an N router that will support:
2 360s
1 PS3
1 DirecTV HD DVR
5 computers
2 iPods
Wii
PSP
Comcast VoIP

Unfortunately it is being utilized by comcast internet. I obviously need some good QoS and help setting that up as well. 2 of the PCs play games, several torrents going while using the phone and Xboxs and the PS3. Yes, this stuff all gets used at the same time. Which is why I'm in a dilemma. Luckily, Comcast does provide enough speed, no matter how shitty their service is. What router should I get? Also, I'm going to need THREE adapters(one HAS to be USB, the other 2 can be PCI or USB). Should I get dual-band as well, seeing as I have several G products(iPods, PS3, PSP, Wii) along with N computers? I'd also like gigabit, but I think that is a given seeing the requirements I already have:lol . I don't think my WRT54GS or DIR-615 will be up to the task of this monster of a network I'll be setting up. Unfortunately, I do not believe the house is wired for a wired network, and as it is rented, I cannot get it installed.
 

G_Berry

Banned
Leatherface said:
Anyone have experience with this router?:

33-124-284-01.jpg


WRT54G2


Also, is this compatible with tomato since it's still the WRT54g series?

I'm using the WRT610N (dont buy this) model. It's a buggy POS. Dual band my ass, the only way to get the POS to not reboot every 5 minutes is to disable evrything but wireless G on the 2.4ghz band lol.

Check out the linksys forums, very helpful.
 

Nelo Ice

Banned
nice this thread was bumped right when i needed it :lol

im having problems with my wrt54gs2 connecting wirelessly
i went through the automated linksys tech support system and cloned the mac address and now i can only connect directly through ethernet
anyone kno how i can fix this and connect wirelessly?
 

Lkr

Member
Lkr said:
Going to bump this as I'm a junior and can't make a thread.


I'm moving, and I want an N router that will support:
2 360s
1 PS3
1 DirecTV HD DVR
5 computers
2 iPods
Wii
PSP
Comcast VoIP

Unfortunately it is being utilized by comcast internet. I obviously need some good QoS and help setting that up as well. 2 of the PCs play games, several torrents going while using the phone and Xboxs and the PS3. Yes, this stuff all gets used at the same time. Which is why I'm in a dilemma. Luckily, Comcast does provide enough speed, no matter how shitty their service is. What router should I get? Also, I'm going to need THREE adapters(one HAS to be USB, the other 2 can be PCI or USB). Should I get dual-band as well, seeing as I have several G products(iPods, PS3, PSP, Wii) along with N computers? I'd also like gigabit, but I think that is a given seeing the requirements I already have:lol . I don't think my WRT54GS or DIR-615 will be up to the task of this monster of a network I'll be setting up. Unfortunately, I do not believe the house is wired for a wired network, and as it is rented, I cannot get it installed.
Moving in 8 days, and with a weekend coming up, I need to order. Please post a suggestion :)
 

HiResDes

Member
Lkr said:
Moving in 8 days, and with a weekend coming up, I need to order. Please post a suggestion :)
Just go with a D-Link I heard they are the most reliable, and I can testify that my Linksys is pretty crap.
 

Rolf NB

Member
Asus WL500W.
DD-WRT firmware.

The router costs about 100$. It'd be a lot cheaper if you didn't specifically require 802.11n support, but them's the breaks. It's a lovely device though, with a good antenna setup and lots of RAM.

My favourite b/g router currently is the Buffalo WHR-HP-G54 btw. Significantly cheaper, if you don't need n.
 

Rolf NB

Member
Lkr said:
I didn't want to dick around too much with DD-WRT, but it looks like I'll have to :(
It's the most reliable way to get the features you want. It's hard enough to find an "ideal" router already. I wouldn't want to deal with varying feature sets of stock firmwares as well.
 

Lkr

Member
I had problems with DD-WRT, however it was on a pretty shitty router. Right now I'm looking at the DLink DIR-655. Is that any good?
 

Lkr

Member
I looked at the wiki and that Asus isn't the best for DD-WRT. Tomato isn't compatible either.

Right now I'm looking at the DLink DIR-655 and DGL-4500. Is the 4500 worth the extra $47?
 

Mareg

Member
Lkr said:
I had problems with DD-WRT, however it was on a pretty shitty router. Right now I'm looking at the DLink DIR-655. Is that any good?

Its an excellent router. Price is a bit high. But if you want zero problem, its a good option.
 

Lkr

Member
Mareg said:
Its an excellent router. Price is a bit high. But if you want zero problem, its a good option.
Any reason to go with the DGL-4500 over it? Willing to spend money as long as its a better performer than the cheap DIR-615 I have.
 

Drek

Member
G_Berry said:
I'm using the WRT610N (dont buy this) model. It's a buggy POS. Dual band my ass, the only way to get the POS to not reboot every 5 minutes is to disable evrything but wireless G on the 2.4ghz band lol.

Check out the linksys forums, very helpful.
I have to disagree with this.

My WRT610N worked pretty much flawlessly with the following devices all hooked up:

Wired
WinXP desktop
PS3
Kuro plasma

Wireless
Xbox 360
Wii
Mac laptop
PSP

I also run PlayOn heavily and have a NAS connected to the USB port of the router. The only problems I've had are as follows:

1. When doing a reboot I had to unplug the NAS temporarily, otherwise it didn't boot up quite right (had to reboot because of some tweaking I did).

2. I'm pretty sure a bolt of lightening fried the RJ45 port for incoming internet. Not really the hardware's fault. Linksys' return system sucks because they stick you with shipping and costs of expedited if you want to get your replacement ASAP, but they did send me a brand new unopened unit as a replacement.

I'll be networking an Iomega network drive onto one of the RJ45's next week at which time I'll then also wire the printer up through it as a networked device and I'm not expecting any problems at all.
 

vitaflo

Member
I've never had to forward any ports for my Wii to work online. The only console that's needed it was the Xbox (ports in the OP are correct). If your system works without port forwarding, then keep your ports closed. Any open port is a potential for attack.

Also, don't use UPnP if you don't have to. If you can do the same through port forwarding specific ports, do it instead, it will be more secure. The added "ease of use" of UPnP (Universal Plug n Play) can also cause "ease of attack".

Highly recommend DD-WRT. I've been using it for many many years now on my Linksys. It basically does everything (even things that aren't in the web interface as it has Linux command line built in and takes just about any command).

Edit: BTW, if you're updating your firmware DO NOT DO IT OVER WIFI. Always update your firmware via wired connection. In fact, I wouldn't change any option on a router over wifi but that's just me.
 

Slavik81

Member
---------------------------Try Turning on MAC filtering/Turning OFF SSID Broadcasting---------------------------

Another alternative to using passcodes is to turn off SSID broadcasting, esentially "hiding" your network from a regular SSID search. You will have to manually type in the name of your network for every wireless device using it, but it may have some benefits (Wii owners take note). Some devices will not work as well with WEP/WPA on, so this is an alternative. Keep in mind certain devices may not function properly when SSID Broadcasting is turned off as well, so this solution may not be for everyone.

You can also try using MAC filtering, which basically screens out all computers except ones with MAC addresses you want. Each wireless device has a unique MAC address, so to save yourself time have all the wireless devices you want already connected to your router, and copy the MAC addresses seen into the ones you want included for MAC filtering.
Neither MAC filtering, nor disabling SSID broadcasting is an effective security filter. They are easily circumvented. That doesn't mean that using those techniques is a bad thing, but just don't expect it to be foolproof like WPA.

Appologies if someone's already mentioned that. I skimmed through the thread and didn't notice anyone mention this.
 
Slavik81 said:
Neither MAC filtering, nor disabling SSID broadcasting is an effective security filter. They are easily circumvented. That doesn't mean that using those techniques is a bad thing, but just don't expect it to be foolproof like WPA.

Appologies if someone's already mentioned that. I skimmed through the thread and didn't notice anyone mention this.

I'm actually surprised how so many wireless access guides still have this advice. Disabling SSID will do absolutely nothing as even Windows Xp's own wireless access point browser is able to find them. It doesn't hide the access point at all.

MAC filtering is pointless because if someone really wanted access, they could spoof a MAC address easily. Again, even legit programs allow you to do this for compatibility sake.
 

Swaain

Member
G_Berry said:
I'm using the WRT610N (dont buy this) model. It's a buggy POS. Dual band my ass, the only way to get the POS to not reboot every 5 minutes is to disable evrything but wireless G on the 2.4ghz band lol.

Check out the linksys forums, very helpful.

I've recently rebuilt my entire home network around the EU iteration of this router, and I must say - I have had no problems at all. I'm very pleased, in fact. I just need to get the media server set up, as that's not up & running yet.

LAN & WAN was very easy to set up once I figured that the router defaults to the same IP address as my modem (192.168.1.1), and the dual-wireless-networks feature the 610 N allows is very useful : all my consoles & gaming PCs now go through a WET610 bridge + switch over the 5 ghz band (802.11n), while the "household PCs" & the Wii go through the b/g mixed mode network over the 2.4 ghz band.

The idea is to keep adding WET610 bridges (and switches) when the need arises. In the end, it'll be one for each floor of our home (2 more to install) : hopefully, this will allow for high-speed wired internet without having to add cellar-to-attic-ethernet wires.

A thought : I only used "linksys by Cisco" appliances for my network, though. Maybe that's why it works so well?

In short : a big thumbs-up. It's an expensive bit of kit, though...
 
Lkr:

dir-655.jpg


The DIR-655. Should do everything you need. I'm moving in 3 weeks and i'll be using this as the backbone of my network, as it already gives great signal and few drops in the 2400 sq. foot house i'm in now, and it's on the top floor.
 

Rolf NB

Member
Linksys firmware is garbage. Some of their hardware is nice but none of their routers can hold wireless connections worth a damn until you flash them with custom firmware, when they magically start working reliably. Coincidence? I think not.

I had to throw out a WAG160N (basically a WAG600 w/ integrated DSL modem) this past winter because Linksys still can't figure out how to write a wireless networking stack after all these years, and there had not been CFW support yet for that model.
 

Lkr

Member
DeaconKnowledge said:
Lkr:

dir-655.jpg


The DIR-655. Should do everything you need. I'm moving in 3 weeks and i'll be using this as the backbone of my network, as it already gives great signal and few drops in the 2400 sq. foot house i'm in now, and it's on the top floor.
Sounds good. How does it perform with G devices btw?
 
DeaconKnowledge said:
Lkr:

dir-655.jpg


The DIR-655. Should do everything you need. I'm moving in 3 weeks and i'll be using this as the backbone of my network, as it already gives great signal and few drops in the 2400 sq. foot house i'm in now, and it's on the top floor.


I like D-Link a lot. I'm using the DIR-615, Revision B, and it works flawlessly. I don't remember the last time I had to reboot the router.

Is the DIR-655 like the next version of the DIR-615?


Also, I have been using my wireless router without any kind of encryptation, just with the SSID Brodcast disabled, so my neighbors can't see my signal. I only need to type the name of my SSID into the new WiFi devices that I buy, which is the same time that I would use to type an encryptation password. This way all my devices are compatible. I can use my WiFi on my 360, Wii and of course, DS (which only accept WEP encryptation).

Are the settings that I'm using recommended? I mean, disabling all encryptation and just hiding my SSID?
 

IlludiumQ36

Member
Lkr said:
I've read bad things about WRT610N so I'm hesitant to give it a go, myself
I've used the 610 for about 9 months now using wired (Media PC, 360, Blu-ray player) and a dual-band wireless network (5Ghz for a 2nd 360 and 2.4Ghz for agaming PC). It's performed splendidly.

What doesn't work worth a crap - the associated wireless adapter (Linksys WUSB600N). Absolute garbage. Lags every few minutes to an hour in online gaming and completely drops connection every few hours of uptime requiring either a Windows re-enable or a hard reset (pull the adapter and re-insert it). Luckily, I had an older Belkin N adapter running at 2.4Ghz only to use as a substitute and it's performed flawlessly.
 
This is the DIR-615, wireless N. Very good router, and can be found for about $40-$50.

Earlier reviews were kinda mixed because Revision A had some problems with the chip, but Revision B fixed everything. If you guys are going to buy this router, just check at the box the text saying that is a Revision B (or even Revision C).

Anyway, I doubt you would find a Rev. A because those were taken out of the market a long time ago.

D-LINK%20DIR-615.jpg
 

Lkr

Member
Viewtiful Joe said:
This is the DIR-615, wireless N. Very good router, and can be found for about $40-$50.

Earlier reviews were kinda mixed because Revision A had some problems with the chip, but Revision B fixed everything. If you guys are going to buy this router, just check at the box the text saying that is a Revision B (or even Revision C).

Anyway, I doubt you would find a Rev. A because those were taken out of the market a long time ago.

D-LINK%20DIR-615.jpg
The thing I don't like about my Revision C is that it reboots after every minor change.
And you need to enable at least WPA on your router if you don't want it broken into it.


What wireless adapters are recommended btw?
 

Lkr

Member
Is there a reason all N adapters have bad reviews? I want something that will work, found a cheap option that will work, then learned that it won't work if the SSID is not broadcasting. Obviously that won't work well. I've also heard for the DIR-655 I have to disable UPNP and other settings to make it work with 300mbps. any truth to this?
 

Slavik81

Member
Viewtiful Joe said:
Are the settings that I'm using recommended? I mean, disabling all encryptation and just hiding my SSID?
No. Hiding your SSID does almost nothing. Do not mistake it as a real means of security. If you're ok with having no security at all, then doing so is fine.

If you want actual security, turn on WPA and have a decent password.

Lkr said:
Is there a reason all N adapters have bad reviews?
Perhaps because the Wireless N standard hasn't been finalized yet, though there might be other reasons.
 
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