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[alr1ght]

dvi, no matter if connected to an hdmi adapter or not will only do video. HDMI to HDMI is the only configuration to do video and audio.

 

[Kodiak]

HDMI has digital audio and video, but the DVI end is only video.

Gotcha, so if I can't have both analog and HDMI outputting at the same time I'm outta luck.

And is the PS3s HDMI-out specific to the PS3, or would any cable like the one you posted work fine? I might be wrong but most consoles of last gen had their own unique composite hook-ups.

(Sorry I've got so many questions, but you guys are way way more helpful than a google search)

 

[Stinkles]

http://www.ramelectronics.net/html/DVI-hdmi_cables.html#dvihdmi

HDMI is a standard - Sony's is the same as the off the shelf ones. If you have a DVI TV, the cable here should work and then you (probably) just use the included Sony video cable for your audio connection.

Some TVs only have headphone-style audio for VGA input, but most DVI inpts come with normal RCA stereo for audio, so I doubt you'll have any issues. Just lots of cables. Like using a Gamecube component setup.

 

[Shogmaster]

Gotcha, so if I can't have both analog and HDMI outputting at the same time I'm outta luck.

Yeah, but I gotta think Sony would think ahead for such situations...

And is the PS3s HDMI-out specific to the PS3, or would any cable like the one you posted work fine? I might be wrong but most consoles of last gen had their own unique composite hook-ups.

(Sorry I've got so many questions, but you guys are way way more helpful than a google search)

HDMI on the PS3 is standard HDMI interface. No proprietary connection. The AV Multi-out is proprietary though.

 

[Kodiak]

Alright, excellent. Thanks for the clarification guys.

Now if I could only decide between the standard and "high quality" cables...

 

[Stinkles]

Alright, excellent. Thanks for the clarification guys.

Now if I could only decide between the standard and "high quality" cables...

If you are not running huge lengths of cable, standard is fine. Digital is digital. It will look perfect over short runs. Way less prone to problems than analog connections. Getting premium cables is usually a big waste of money for digital signals. ESPECIALLY FOR NORMAL USERS, AV SNOBS (not in the mood for one of those arguments, since Seaahwaks just ate it).

 

[ccharla]

Getting premium cables is usually a big waste of money for digital signals. ESPECIALLY FOR NORMAL USERS, AV SNOBS (not in the mood for one of those arguments, since Seaahwaks just ate it).

It's also really easy to tell if your digital cables suck. If you see tons of "sparkles" onscren, from pixels dropping out due to data loss (and going full white / full black), your cable is bad and it's losing packets of data. Otherwise, if you're not seeing lost pixels, you're seeing maximum quality with a digital signal like HDMI. It's either pefect, or broken. Typically this sparkling "feature" increases with the length of your cable, and beyond a certain length, your cable just doesn't work. If your cables are short (< 20 feet), you could probably use tinfoil wrapped with duct tape with no problems.

So, no matter how bad an AV snob you are, it's difficult to recommend expensive HDMI cables, unless you have some weird long cable needs (possibly with a ceiling mounted projector, I guess), in which case quality would suddenly matter a lot.

 

[Creamium]

I would like an exact model number since Philips Pixel Plus brought back a myriad of models on google, but initial search seems to indicate that you have a widescreen direct view CRT HDTV, either 30" or 34" diagonal?

It does some wierd internal signal processing too, interpolating all signals up to 2048 horizontal, then downscaling them to the screen. Don't ask, the press release was dodgy about how that was exactly done.

The problem probably stems from that you have a 50/100Hz PAL model trying to display 60Hz NTSC games, and the bar cut off is probably the difference between 480 lines vertical res of NTSC vs 576 of PAL, but also could be some funky internal processing quicks of the Philips.

The exact model number is 32PW9527/12. The weird thing is that by going into the hidden tv menu I could make the bar disappear, but this resulted in an ugly image. In some video section, there was this option to choose between '1050i/1250i', Eagle 1B and Eagle 1C, whatever the last two mean. When I switched over to the last one, I got a full image, but it wasn't sharp. I tried switching on a few other options in that menu, but nothing happened.

 

[Shogmaster]

The exact model number is 32PW9527/12. The weird thing is that by going into the hidden tv menu I could make the bar disappear, but this resulted in an ugly image. In some video section, there was this option to choose between '1050i/1250i', Eagle 1B and Eagle 1C, whatever the last two mean. When I switched over to the last one, I got a full image, but it wasn't sharp. I tried switching on a few other options in that menu, but nothing happened.

Yeah. Sounds like your standard scaling issues dealing with difference sources. "Ugly" comes in when the scaler kicks in and stretches the none 16:9 image to fit the 16:9 screen and what not.

And as I've said, the other trobles are probably taking NTSC and discplaying in on TV with circuitry that's optimised for PAL.