Super "NeoGAF Arcade Stick Thread" II TURBO

So a friend asked me about getting a fight stick cause I'm the only one he knows who owns one, but there's a lot of new sticks since I last checked back when there weren't as many options for current gen.

His budget is in the 100-200 range and he only needs PS4/PC, and he says PS3 would be a big plus. He wants it for fighting and rhythm games which means the stick needs to be mappable to the d-pad with a switch or something (I know my stick can do this, but I'm not sure how common it is). Previously I would have recommended a TE2 but they seem to be slightly outside his budget now. I own a RAP.V Hayabusa, which I would recommend but he doesn't like the kuro buttons and he doesn't want to do any modding (not sure how hayabusa buttons compare to the old kuro's). So are there any mid-priced sticks that come with sanwa (or otherwise good quality) parts or do I have to tell him to compromise?
Get the Rap 4 Kai. Hayabusa buttons are just as good as the sanwa buttons in my opinion, haybausa buttons are matte vs glossy, and they're more low profile, which basically means the button reactions are more quicker.

It's $150 on their website and on amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/HORI-Real-Ar...8&qid=1471418698&sr=1-2&keywords=arcade+stick

If you really want to recommend a Madcatz stick, try to wait until the TES+ is back on sale. Right now it's at its MRSP of $199.99, but sales have put it around $165.
https://www.amazon.com/Fighter-Figh...8&qid=1471418698&sr=1-6&keywords=arcade+stick

The Qanba Drone is $74.99. I had the chance to try it out during EVO. It felt okay to use. It's non Sanwa parts. From what I read, buttons are easier to mod, the joystick is harder.

https://www.amazon.com/Qanba-Joysti...&qid=1471418698&sr=1-11&keywords=arcade+stick
 
Get the Rap 4 Kai. Hayabusa buttons are just as good as the sanwa buttons in my opinion, haybausa buttons are matte vs glossy, and they're more low profile, which basically means the button reactions are more quicker.

It's $150 on their website and on amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/HORI-Real-Ar...8&qid=1471418698&sr=1-2&keywords=arcade+stick

If you really want to recommend a Madcatz stick, try to wait until the TES+ is back on sale. Right now it's at its MRSP of $199.99, but sales have put it around $165.
https://www.amazon.com/Fighter-Figh...8&qid=1471418698&sr=1-6&keywords=arcade+stick

The Qanba Drone is $74.99. I had the chance to try it out during EVO. It felt okay to use. It's non Sanwa parts. From what I read, buttons are easier to mod, the joystick is harder.

https://www.amazon.com/Qanba-Joysti...&qid=1471418698&sr=1-11&keywords=arcade+stick
Thanks that's great, I didn't see the TES+ but I'll let him know.

I remember really liking the Qanba Q4, but I only borrowed it for a couple matches at a con. Did the old models use sanwa buttons? I actually really dig the Drone's honeycomb design so I might get it for myself. How easy is it to mod?
 
Thanks that's great, I didn't see the TES+ but I'll let him know.

I remember really liking the Qanba Q4, but I only borrowed it for a couple matches at a con. Did the old models use sanwa buttons? I actually really dig the Drone's honeycomb design so I might get it for myself. How easy is it to mod?
I'm pretty sure the Q4RAF used Sanwa parts.

Here's a mod tutorial for the Drone
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4bIOjESxBqo

Edit: here's a newer video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_sexNFxi38M
 
Okay, so after seeing that KoF14 will support legacy controllers, I went out and bought that Qanba Q4 RAF from my local pawn shop, moderately used, $20 (Can you believe the price!?).

It's the blue one.

Now I want to customize it, but I have no idea where to start. I have a few questions, and hopefully someone will be kind enough to answer them. Sorry it's so much :/

From my limited research I found that I'll need a template for the artwork.

Do I need to buy new plexiglass, or can I scrub the RAF 4 plexi of the art that's printed on there?

What resolution does the artwork need to be in order to look right?

Where do I go to print it, and will they let me print copyrighted material? What size and file type should it be?

What size buttons do I buy? How do I know which brand to get? Will an OEM brand button work as well or better than the stock buttons?

Do I need to buy a whole stick or can I just replace the ball top?

I think that's everything. Thanks so much in advance for any and all help :)
 
Don't have one personally, but from memory, the Q4RAF came with Sanwa parts as default (JLF stick, OBSF-30 buttons). Those are pretty much the baseline of what folks consider good components, so if they are in good knick, and the previous owner didn't mess around with parts, there's not much you need to do with it.

Assuming the stock JLF is still in there, and ball top (or bat top) listed as JLF-compatible (and most Seimitsu ball tops, for that matter) should be able to be fitted to it - the ball just screws off, though you may need to open up the case so that you can use a screwdriver to steady the shaft in order to unscrew it (though I guess you could use a pair of pilers if there is no shaft cover).

30mm snap-in buttons are probably what you need if you want to change he button colours. I'd probably recommend staying with Sanwa - the OBSF-30s, as is default in that stick, are available in a variety of colours. I like Seimitsu buttons myself, but the feel is pretty different, as is the fit, so you'd have to confirm with someone they actually work before jumping that way.

When folks talk about Plexi, they are talking about a thin layer of transparent plastic which sits above the control panel, sandwiching your art against it. This is an aftermarket part on the Qanba, so you have to source one from somewhere. You shouldn't have to scrub anything, as the new printed art will sit between the current front of your panel and the Plexi layer you are applying on top of it.

-edit- oh, just to be specific, the main buttons should be 30mm, and the start button 24mm, if memory serves correctly. These are standard button sizes.
 
Don't have one personally, but from memory, the Q4RAF came with Sanwa parts as default (JLF stick, OBSF-30 buttons). Those are pretty much the baseline of what folks consider good components, so if they are in good knick, and the previous owner didn't mess around with parts, there's not much you need to do with it.

Assuming the stock JLF is still in there, and ball top (or bat top) listed as JLF-compatible (and most Seimitsu ball tops, for that matter) should be able to be fitted to it - the ball just screws off, though you may need to open up the case so that you can use a screwdriver to steady the shaft in order to unscrew it (though I guess you could use a pair of pilers if there is no shaft cover).

30mm snap-in buttons are probably what you need if you want to change he button colours. I'd probably recommend staying with Sanwa - the OBSF-30s, as is default in that stick, are available in a variety of colours. I like Seimitsu buttons myself, but the feel is pretty different, as is the fit, so you'd have to confirm with someone they actually work before jumping that way.

When folks talk about Plexi, they are talking about a thin layer of transparent plastic which sits above the control panel, sandwiching your art against it. This is an aftermarket part on the Qanba, so you have to source one from somewhere. You shouldn't have to scrub anything, as the new printed art will sit between the current front of your panel and the Plexi layer you are applying on top of it.

-edit- oh, just to be specific, the main buttons should be 30mm, and the start button 24mm, if memory serves correctly. These are standard button sizes.
Thanks for the info!

Is there a trusted site for buying buttons?

I took it apart yesterday, and theres a plexi panel that sits over the buttons. The blue RAF art is painted on this plexi. I was wondering if I could just scrub that art off with nail polish or something because finding a spare properly fitting plexi seems like a chore.

Edit: It's a thin layer of plastic with the RAF and button logos painted on it.
 
Thanks for the info!

Is there a trusted site for buying buttons?

I took it apart yesterday, and theres a plexi panel that sits over the buttons. The blue RAF art is painted on this plexi. I was wondering if I could just scrub that art off with nail polish or something because finding a spare properly fitting plexi seems like a chore.

Edit: It's a thin layer of plastic with the RAF and button logos painted on it.
I'll let one of the 'Murkin posters comment on where to buy parts in the US - I'm a Brit, so none of the places I buy stuff are anywhere near cost effective for you.

Looking into it, I guess the replacement clear plexis replace that existing panel you are talking about. I can't really say how feasible it would be to remove the existing art without having one in my hands, but I'd imagine it's probably more pain than it's worth. Trying to remove it will probably just result in it being way too scuffed up to use.

That said, finding an official Qanba clear replacement plexi at this point might be tough. If you aren't in a massive hurry, Art's Hobbies custom-makes replacement plexis to order, as well as also doing high-quality art printing and cutting, so maybe kill two birds with one stone? I can't say I've ever had cause to order from him myself, but he's fairly reputable, and I know at least a couple of folks in this thread have ordered his DIY Plexi cases in the past (wish I could justify the cost of shipping one over here!).
 
Notworksafe listed the three main sites people use to buy parts online in the U.S.

Also, if you go to Majors, there are usually vendors selling parts as well.

They made garbage products and invested heavily in to the rhythm game genre in 2015 like fucking idiots. Good riddance to bad rubbish.

For arcade parts check out focusattack.com, paradisearcadeshop.com, or arcadeshock.com. They also don't add a random upcharge to products like the MadCatz store did.
Thanks for the info!

Is there a trusted site for buying buttons?

I took it apart yesterday, and theres a plexi panel that sits over the buttons. The blue RAF art is painted on this plexi. I was wondering if I could just scrub that art off with nail polish or something because finding a spare properly fitting plexi seems like a chore.

Edit: It's a thin layer of plastic with the RAF and button logos painted on it.
 
Thanks for all the help!

Anyone know where I can get the template, what size my art should be, and where I can get it printed?

I'm going to try soaking the RAF plexi in fingernail polish to see if the paint will just come off. I'm hoping it will because I don't want to have to order a new plastic cover.
 
So I have a couple of Madcatz Street Fighter IV Tournament Edition arcade sticks for PS3 and I upgraded my PC so that they do not work anymore. I was reading on shoryuken that changing the pcb in it would make it work, but I have no soldering skills at all. The ones they recommended were Zero Delay and Cthulhu. Since I can't find Cthulhu anywhere, guess this means Zero Delay.

Does anyone have a guide on how to install this and if this is easy to do? I am not even sure how to open up the arcade stick. Thanks for any help.
 
So I have a couple of Madcatz Street Fighter IV Tournament Edition arcade sticks for PS3 and I upgraded my PC so that they do not work anymore. I was reading on shoryuken that changing the pcb in it would make it work, but I have no soldering skills at all. The ones they recommended were Zero Delay and Cthulhu. Since I can't find Cthulhu anywhere, guess this means Zero Delay.

Does anyone have a guide on how to install this and if this is easy to do? I am not even sure how to open up the arcade stick. Thanks for any help.
I seem to be in the same boat as you. I don't think I'll do anything drastic like changing out the PCB (unless it's significantly cheaper than a cheap used stick). As I understand it, the problem is that UCHI is old and an Intel propriety; it wasn't universally supported at the time. On my new PC, I have an intel USB 3.0 XHCI (" Intel USB 3.0 eXtensible Host Controller – 0100 (Microsoft)" as device manager says). Is there some sort of backwards compatibility to resolve this? I see "legacy" enabled in BIOS. Sorry if I'm being stubborn about this lol.
 
Again, thanks for all the help! I think I'm going to go with Art for the plexi and art. I'm not sure if the Qanba paint can be cleaned off without messing up the plexi, and honestly, I'm not in the mood to try.
 
I seem to be in the same boat as you. I don't think I'll do anything drastic like changing out the PCB (unless it's significantly cheaper than a cheap used stick). As I understand it, the problem is that UCHI is old and an Intel propriety; it wasn't universally supported at the time. On my new PC, I have an intel USB 3.0 XHCI (" Intel USB 3.0 eXtensible Host Controller – 0100 (Microsoft)" as device manager says). Is there some sort of backwards compatibility to resolve this? I see "legacy" enabled in BIOS. Sorry if I'm being stubborn about this lol.
I thought about that. I found a USB express card that appears to fix the problem, but I want to explore converting the sticks so that they work with other systems like the 360. Otherwise, I might just choose the USB card as a quick fix.
 
I ended up finding myself with nothing to do yesterday, so I decided to try cleaning the Qanba art from the stock plexi, and the nail polish remover totally worked.



Only problem is, I eventually ran out of nail polish remover, got lazy, and tried using rubbing alcohol. It didn't work as well and ended up clouding the plexi a little. After about 3 hours of rubbing and picking at the art, I had most of it off, but the plexi isn't as smooth as it was.
With the artwork I'm using, it doesn't matter because it matches the look and feel.

If anyone gets their hands on a Qanba Q4 and wants to use the stock plexi, it is definitely possible. Just be very patient and buy at least two bottles of non-acetone nail polish remover.
 
I want this stick. But from what I keep seeing it's nothing but a Kai thing with King of Fighters art work on it

I commented on the arcade shock Facebook page and they said "The KOF XIV is not the Kai version. So it's not exactly the same in terms of the button placement. It's based off of the VEWLIX spacing"

I don't know what to think.

I'm thinking of just getting the HORI Real Arcade Pro 4 Kai cause its 10 bucks cheaper


or the

 
I want this stick. But from what I keep seeing it's nothing but a Kai thing with King of Fighters art work on it

I commented on the arcade shock Facebook page and they said "The KOF XIV is not the Kai version. So it's not exactly the same in terms of the button placement. It's based off of the VEWLIX spacing"

I don't know what to think.

I'm thinking of just getting the HORI Real Arcade Pro 4 Kai cause its 10 bucks cheaper


or the

I'd recommend getting the KOFXIV edition. The art is beautiful in person, looks way better to me than it did online. Totally worth the extra $10. Also, arcadeshock said it's the rarest stick made in the U.S. In the last decade (low print run). So it could become valuable over time.
 
so I've been looking at some other things on how to paint plastics but I figured I would ask here.

I can't get the black te2 sideplates (out of stock always), but I have extra blue ones that I am never going to use again so I may try to paint them. Any tips/tricks for doing it correctly?
 
so I've been looking at some other things on how to paint plastics but I figured I would ask here.

I can't get the black te2 sideplates (out of stock always), but I have extra blue ones that I am never going to use again so I may try to paint them. Any tips/tricks for doing it correctly?
Just three steps needed :

1- Start by spraying it with a primer. Helps paint stick and removes scratches. It's better if it's of similar or lighter tone than your intended paint color. But you won't have to worry about this if you're painting black. Wait a few hours before doing the next step
2- Paint it with whatever color you prefer. leave it for 24 hours.
3- use a sealer to keep the paint from scratching off/degrading.

Make sure you do all the above in a clean and dry area and use something to raise the parts up, don't spray them on the ground.
Also, don't forget to use the same type of material for all three sprays to make your life easier. Mixing the wrong materiels together ruins it as they'll react to each other and melt. Acrylic or enamels are best for this. Tamiya is a reliable brand.
 
Fuck it

I'm going to buy me a HORI Real Arcade Pro. 4 Premium VLX

hell i already bought a madcatz stick for like 220 or 230 on a TE2 FUCK IT

Now the question is what color should I get? Kuro or Red

I didn't like the red but it has grown on me after looking at picture of Taito arcade cabinets

After looking at them I wish it was the old Hori Real Arcade Pro: EX Premium VLX. My god that thing looked sexy as fuck and I wish I would have gotten it.

To bad there are no Xbox One to XBOX 360 ones being made lol



or this one

 
Fuck it

I'm going to buy me a HORI Real Arcade Pro. 4 Premium VLX

hell i already bought a madcatz stick for like 220 or 230 on a TE2 FUCK IT

Now the question is what color should I get? Kuro or Red

I didn't like the red but it has grown on me after looking at picture of Taito arcade cabinets

After looking at them I wish it was the old Hori Real Arcade Pro: EX Premium VLX. My god that thing looked sexy as fuck and I wish I would have gotten it.

To bad there are no Xbox One to XBOX 360 ones being made lol



or this one

Get the one with hayabusa buttons.
 
I'd recommend getting the KOFXIV edition. The art is beautiful in person, looks way better to me than it did online. Totally worth the extra $10. Also, arcadeshock said it's the rarest stick made in the U.S. In the last decade (low print run). So it could become valuable over time.
Damn. I wish I could get it right now but I just can't buy another stick.
 

Brandon F

Well congratulations! You got yourself caught!
How terrible is the Hori Mini?

I'd love to get the KoF or RAP, but as a casul scrub, I just can't feel the need to go nuts as such. I tried the SFV Mad Katz mini stick and found it was atrocious(sticky/unresponsive buttons being the biggest issue) just hoping the Hori version fares better...?
 
Just three steps needed :

1- Start by spraying it with a primer. Helps paint stick and removes scratches. It's better if it's of similar or lighter tone than your intended paint color. But you won't have to worry about this if you're painting black. Wait a few hours before doing the next step
2- Paint it with whatever color you prefer. leave it for 24 hours.
3- use a sealer to keep the paint from scratching off/degrading.

Make sure you do all the above in a clean and dry area and use something to raise the parts up, don't spray them on the ground.
Also, don't forget to use the same type of material for all three sprays to make your life easier. Mixing the wrong materiels together ruins it as they'll react to each other and melt. Acrylic or enamels are best for this. Tamiya is a reliable brand.
hey thanks for this, I will probably do this tomorrow.
 
No problem. I forgot to mention that you should also paint by applying multiple layers by spraying from left to right instead of holding the can in place and spraying slowly at once. Less paint build up that way.
gotcha. so multiple coats of each (primer + color)? let it dry between each coat or just do it lightly on each pass over so as to not fill up and be heavier in some spots, etc.?

I have tried painting plastic in the past and it hasn't always gone so well lol
 
gotcha. so multiple coats of each (primer + color)? let it dry between each coat or just do it lightly on each pass over so as to not fill up and be heavier in some spots, etc.?
The later. You should also apply this when spraying the sealer, though I don't think you need to apply to much of that.
 
How terrible is the Hori Mini?

I'd love to get the KoF or RAP, but as a casul scrub, I just can't feel the need to go nuts as such. I tried the SFV Mad Katz mini stick and found it was atrocious(sticky/unresponsive buttons being the biggest issue) just hoping the Hori version fares better...?
150 is a great price point for a stick.
 
Mayflash announced a new stick back during E3. Nobody talked about it.
Introducing the Mayflash F500. It takes the universal compatibility* of the F300 and combines it with the larger and nicer body of the V2/Venom.
An interesting kicker: it supports headphones and chat headsets for PS4 and XBO.
The main caveat is that it's listed as $99 on Play-Asia, which is pretty expensive for a non-Sanwa stick. Hopefully it'll drop down to $60 after it releases.

*Edit: The other caveat is that, for PS4/XB1/360, you need to connect a PS4/XB1/360 controller to the stick. For PC/PS3/Android, no controller is required.

Edit 2: The F500 supports the V2's rumble wrist-strap but requires you to buy the strap separately, which makes it pretty useless.
 
Wow, compatible with PC, PS3, X360, PS4, X1, and Android? Is that listing correct? I hope it does drop to $60 like you say because that sounds worth it for the PCB alone.
Edited because I forgot to mention another caveat with using the stick on 360/PS4/XB1.

If you're only interested in the PCB, just get the Mayflash F300, which is what the F500's PCB seems to be based on. Same caveat with 360/PS4/XB1 applies.
 
So after all the fuss over cleaning the plexi, and after having all of my questions answered here (which I am completely grateful for), my first fightstick is done. The $20 Qanba has been transformed.



I eventually want to throw down for a Hori Rap 4 (to side-step all the Legacy Controller stuff) and make it David Bowie themed.
 
So I have a problem with my stick and I was wondering if anyone here can help

I took out my arcade stick for the first time in a month or so and I notice the joystick itself is very loose. For example, if I move the case, the joystick shakes. Obviously it shouldn't be this way, but I don't know how this happened or how I can fix it. I tried tightening every screw I could find but it didn't do anything - it's not the enclosure that's loose, it's the joystick itself. Can i fix this or do I need a new joystick?

It's the hori hayabusa lever if that helps
 
So I have a problem with my stick and I was wondering if anyone here can help

I took out my arcade stick for the first time in a month or so and I notice the joystick itself is very loose. For example, if I move the case, the joystick shakes. Obviously it shouldn't be this way, but I don't know how this happened or how I can fix it. I tried tightening every screw I could find but it didn't do anything - it's not the enclosure that's loose, it's the joystick itself. Can i fix this or do I need a new joystick?

It's the hori hayabusa lever if that helps
New 2lb spring maybe?

I have this one in mine
 
Fucking usps delivered my VLX and commander to the wrong house. Omfg

I just looked at Amazon/shipping adress. And it said itcame today at 10:12 am

Called my house. Mom told me they heard nothing no knock or anything.

Looked at it and the adress it was delivered to wasn't my adress but the next town over.....
 
Fucking usps delivered my VLX and commander to the wrong house. Omfg

I just looked at Amazon/shipping adress. And it said itcame today at 10:12 am

Called my house. Mom told me they heard nothing no knock or anything.

Looked at it and the adress it was delivered to wasn't my adress but the next town over.....
man that sucks. surely you can do something about it?