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"I need a New PC!" 2012 Thread. 22nm+28nm, Tri-Gate, and reading the OP. [Part 1]
- Thread starter Hazaro
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Got my Gigabyte GTX 670 last night. I can finally put up pics of my build
SYSTEM
Intel 2600k
Asus Maximus V Gene z77
Gigabyte GTX 670
Hyper 212+ Evo
16gb Corsair Vengeance LP
120gb Sandisk Extreme SSD
2TB Western Digital Black
Broadcom BCM94313 mPCIE wifi card
Thermaltake Toughpower 750
Silverstone TJ08B Case
Silverstone FP55 Bay Converter (fit my SSD and HDD in 5.25 slot)
Parts
With HDD cage. Can't fit 3.5 HDD and dual fans on Hyper 212 EVO. Bought Silverstone FP55 to solve it
w/o HDD cage
Front
Our builds are like cousins! Thanks for the tip on the FP55 though, I'll have to look into that and probably buy one for my rig. As for fans for the Hyper 212 Evo, is there anything wrong with the stock fan?
Pop On Arrival
Banned
Hay guys, should my 510-20 watt PSU be okay to fun my MSI 560ti, ancient Q6600 CPU, 4gigs of shitty ram and one HDD?
I've got people calling me idiots from both sides. Some are saying that I should definitely get at least a 600watt PSU, but others are saying that the rest of my machine is shit enough that I don't really need to upgrade.
Honestly, I'd rather spend the money I'm gonna spend on a PSU on a HDD, or a cooling system.
I've got people calling me idiots from both sides. Some are saying that I should definitely get at least a 600watt PSU, but others are saying that the rest of my machine is shit enough that I don't really need to upgrade.
Honestly, I'd rather spend the money I'm gonna spend on a PSU on a HDD, or a cooling system.
I use Cougar Vortex (~$17) on my Hyper 212 Evo. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835553006
They are pretty silent and push a lot of air.
Don't get anything besides the 560ti if that's what you're asking, assuming you're running DDR2 ram. That CPU is pretty old but it doesn't sound like you want to buy a full new build, which you would have to do if you wanted better performance. The PSU should be fine.
You can get a Samsung F3 1tb on newegg for $90 as well.
What specifically are your current specs and what do you want?
Transferred my goods over to the Lian-Li V700 today. It was a joy to work with, though it was a challenging build. The craftsmanship and ingenuity are definitely evident while building with this thing.
The fans are way too loud at stock...going to have to get a fan controller or resistors to quiet them down.
The fans are way too loud at stock...going to have to get a fan controller or resistors to quiet them down.
Since getting my Crucial m4, my system will reset power during boot about 10% of the time. As in the system will reset when the win7 for colors spiral into the windows logo. Fucking annoying because then the subsequent boot attempt Windows will default to some sort of error fix utility which of course spends a lot of time finding no problems because it's apparently an SSD/SATA controler/mobo incompatibility issue/bug (I'm betting it's Crucial's fault).
Anyway, if anyone else is having this problem (I found a few other cases in google), here's the workaround:
http://social.msdn.microsoft.com/Forums/en-US/quebecmisc/thread/12806c89-3592-4748-83dd-5b55eabec5a1
Tells windows to STFU and boot.
Anyway, if anyone else is having this problem (I found a few other cases in google), here's the workaround:
http://social.msdn.microsoft.com/Forums/en-US/quebecmisc/thread/12806c89-3592-4748-83dd-5b55eabec5a1
Tells windows to STFU and boot.
MisterNoisy
Member
The Cooler Master Blade Master 120mm is the fan that the 212 ships with, and is usually pretty inexpensive (currently $13 at Newegg)
Pop On Arrival
Banned
I'm honestly fine with my current setup. I just don't want my PSU to break and take out my entire setup with it, haha.
GTS 250
DDR2 4GB RAM
Q6600 2.4ghz
500GB HDD
520watt PSU
Sorry, I can't really get much more specific than that, I'm terrible with product names. Specially confusing computer parts, haha. I really just to slap on this 560ti I bought, but yeah, I'm kinda scared of breaking stuff.
I'm honestly fine with my current setup. I just don't want my PSU to break and take out my entire setup with it, haha.
GTS 250
DDR2 4GB RAM
Q6600 2.4ghz
500GB HDD
520watt PSU
Sorry, I can't really get much more specific than that, I'm terrible with product names. Specially confusing computer parts, haha. I really just to slap on this 560ti I bought, but yeah, I'm kinda scared of breaking stuff.
You're fine. What brand/model is the PSU though? The CPU might bottleneck the GPU a bit but it will still be a pretty big upgrade. Take out the old card, put the 560 in. Boot up to windows and do a clean install of the latest drivers.
Didn't think to try that! Might have saved me a few minutes, haha.
Pop On Arrival
Banned
Acbel, I think. Yeah, I pretty sure I'm gonna bottleneck it the GPU, but whatevs. I'll upgrade the CPU soon, too. Thanks for the input! Appreciate it.
maks
Member
Nothing wrong with it. I just want to run 2 fans and make sure they matched.
Thanks!
Ahh its the blademaster. Thanks for the info. Perhaps I will go with a 2nd one of these.
Slayer-33
Liverpool-2
Always
Wolf Akela
Member
I use a UPS since 2008.
MisterNoisy
Member
UPS always, particularly since I live in one of the most lightning-prone regions of the country. I've had good experiences with APC and CyberPower units.
Have on on my work machine since the data i'm using in real time is valuable. I've never bothered with one at home, waste of money for me.
Chiggs
Gold Member
Very nice rig!
What wattage do you need for a UPS? > PSU rating + Monitors?
Wolf Akela
Member
I follow this rule of thumb is VA * 0.65 = wattage supplied.
Did you update the firmware?
There was a recent one released at the end of last month.
Zero problems here with a LGA 775 setup.
When installing my new motherboard this week I became increasingly frustrated while mounting it in the case. It seems the screws don't all fit into the stand offs. They aren't stripped but some screws would fit in one standoff while not fitting in another. Really annoyed me.
So, while at work tonight I've been looking for easier solutions to motherboard mounting. It seems Lian Li makes motherboard thumbscrews. Is there any reason to think those wouldn't work with standard standoffs? Anyone have any experience with them?
Another alternative is plastic pushpins, but I don't really trust those to keep the motherboard tight with an aftermarket heatsink bolted onto it.
So, while at work tonight I've been looking for easier solutions to motherboard mounting. It seems Lian Li makes motherboard thumbscrews. Is there any reason to think those wouldn't work with standard standoffs? Anyone have any experience with them?
Another alternative is plastic pushpins, but I don't really trust those to keep the motherboard tight with an aftermarket heatsink bolted onto it.
With a modern PSU, that's kind of outdated. These new 80+ power supplies with active PFC are much more efficient that that. Although being so lenient does give you headway if you're just guessing.
The best way to truly know what a person needs is to buy a Kill-A-Watt and measure your requirements directly. Especially with the prices of UPS as you scale up, a Kill-a-watt will pay for itself after your first UPS purchase. And it's a great little tool to have around.
How off are they? A lot or a little? I assume you're not tightening each screw as you go? You just want to loosely start each screw, and when you ve got all the screws threaded, then go ahead and tighten them.
I've got 0009, so I'm out of date.
I'm extremely hesitant to update firmware because the reason why I have the m4 is that my C300 was bricked with their firmware updater, much like anand's was.
I don't have to nanny the boot anymore, and that was my biggest gripe. This PC is going to become my living room's HTPC next year when I build a Haswell + dual next gen GPU PC as my desktop gaming rig. I couldn't live with an HTPC that doesn't boot 10% of the time.
Hmmm...maybe I'll try this with my old 'bricked" drive. Anyway their firmware updating process makes most localized mobo manuals look like Shakespeare. Backwater free DOS shit with partial steps, poorly written software, argh.
jackpottest
Member
to the people helping me get into my bios, DEL did the trick. now I feel stupid.
thanks for the tip
unfortunately the bios runs off my screen and has pink/colored graphical artifact boxes around certain sections. To google I go with that one. ugh
thanks for the tip
unfortunately the bios runs off my screen and has pink/colored graphical artifact boxes around certain sections. To google I go with that one. ugh
TheThunder
Member
My parts haven't arrived yet but I'm already thinking of buying extra 120mm fans locally for my case and the hyper 212 Evo.
Any certain brands/models I should look out for ?
and does the hyper 212evo need any sort of "compatible" fan besides being a 120mm one ?
Any certain brands/models I should look out for ?
and does the hyper 212evo need any sort of "compatible" fan besides being a 120mm one ?
I live in Florida and there's lot of lightening strikes in the summer evenings. So I've used UPS for years. The only time I ever purchased a CyberPower it was dead in like 6 months.
Maybe they're a decent brand, but I always just go for the cheapest APC branded one after that failed experiment. And I determine what I need by taking measurements from the wall using a kill-a-watt. I just think it's a waste of money to guess as to what kind of VA you need.
It's 60 dollars cheaper. If you're gonna spend as much as your above build was, do you really wanna be CPU bottlenecked over 60 dollars?
Honestly, if money is an issue, you're better off stalking the deal sites and purchasing a couple components at a time. There are deals out there and you can significantly cut costs if you're not married to the idea of getting everything in one shipping container. Or ordering everything on the same day.
Yes, that much worse.
MisterNoisy
Member
I've got the 1350VA version of that UPS, actually (got it for 20% off with a Newegg coupon code) and the display on it is telling me that my PC (OC'd 2500K + GTX570 for now, 2 LED/LCD panels) is currently drawing 162W. The 600W/1000VA unit in your link would power it for 10-12 minutes at that load off the battery - plenty of time to save work and shut down. Modern hardware is pretty good at reducing power draw in light-load situations.
Helping a friend, pick out some new parts for his dad's PC, to speed it up. If someone could help me out, as I'm super nervous, when it comes to giving out PC advice.
Here's the motherboard, in his dad's pc.
http://icomputing.ecrater.co.uk/p/11745975/dell-dm051-dimension-e510-5150-motherboard
Here's the CPU we're looking at.
http://www.tekheads.co.uk/product/Intel-Pentium-Dual-Core-E5700-30GHz-45nm-LGA775-800MHz-Processor-Retail-with-Fan_36493.html
Also if anyone could point me in the way, of good Ram for the motherboard, that would be great too.
Cheers in advance guys.
Here's the motherboard, in his dad's pc.
http://icomputing.ecrater.co.uk/p/11745975/dell-dm051-dimension-e510-5150-motherboard
Here's the CPU we're looking at.
http://www.tekheads.co.uk/product/Intel-Pentium-Dual-Core-E5700-30GHz-45nm-LGA775-800MHz-Processor-Retail-with-Fan_36493.html
Also if anyone could point me in the way, of good Ram for the motherboard, that would be great too.
Cheers in advance guys.
Yeah, I live in Florida as well and love the security I get from using a laptop with a battery as my main computer (though I had to buy another battery because not draining the battery and just keeping it plugged in killed it). I won't be getting one at the moment as I'll be moving across the country soon, so I'll see what kind of up-time I get over there before making the investment.
Do you know what speed CPU he has in it now? I'm assuming this isn't for gaming, right? How much RAM does he have? If he's just doing light office work/web surfing and it's sluggish, it could be from not enough RAM and Windows just getting gunked up. A Windows re-install and/or some more RAM might do wonders for what he already has.
I should also add that I never buy these things for retail. Best Buy/Office Max/Office Depot/Staples tend to run sales on APC brands. So if you know what size you need and you're patient, you can usually get one for a real nice price.
Here are the specs my friend gave me.
CPU CPU TypeIntel Pentium 4 640, 3200 MHz (16 x 200)
Ram System Memory1024 MB (DDR2-533 DDR2 SDRAM)
Thanks for the speedy response.
EDIT: My friend says they ran ccleaner on it. Also cleaned up what programs come up, on startup. They haven't formatted though.
I'd buy a 4gb kit of DDR2 ram (8gb kits of DDR2 were absurdly priced last I checked), and then put him on a fresh install of Windows 7 (assuming he's on XP and would be OK with upgrading). Not sure how much of an upgrade you can do without going to a new socket.
Cheers. My friend sounds more than up, for this option.
Thanks for all the advice guys. This thread never fails.
For the RAM get this: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231122
And a copy of W7 HP x64 will run you $100 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16832116986
Forgot to mention. He's already on Win7.
Not sure if dual core is going to put much life into this PC. Many apps are still single thread heavy, and per core performance may actually be SLOWER with one of the early dual core processors compared to a late Pentium 4. It's nearly a decade old. Cheapest of cheapest desktops today would beat it 20x.
Considering how old it is, a component is likely to die within a couple of years. PSU, motherboard, etc. I would just take the hit now and get an i5 or even i3 desktop for $400-$500 if it's strictly for general use.
The RAM should work at least, you just wouldn't be able to run it at 800mhz.
If he's just using it for general office use a $56 purchase to extend it's life a year or so would be fine, since he hasn't been driven insane by using the rig so far. But yeah I'd tell him to start putting money aside for a new computer.
If he's just using it for general office use a $56 purchase to extend it's life a year or so would be fine, since he hasn't been driven insane by using the rig so far. But yeah I'd tell him to start putting money aside for a new computer.
Horsemama1956
Member
A 3Ghz Core 2 Duo is plenty for a none gamer. There is no comparison to a Pentium 4 in any situation.
Hmm, you're right in this case. This processor is about 2x per core compared to a Pentium 4.
There are early core 2 duos that were slower. For example:
http://www.cpubenchmark.net/cpu.php?cpu=Intel+Core2+Duo+T5600+@+1.83GHz
vs
http://www.cpubenchmark.net/cpu.php?cpu=Intel+Pentium+4+3.80GHz
In a single thread app, the p4 wins because per core the p4 performs like 20% faster. But you're 3GHz qualifier is probably right. I've forgotten the clock rate history.
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